Blaser R8 for Dangerous Game

BeeMaa

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Here is a picture of my 416RM bolt head.
Ejector is directly at 6 o'clock.
Extractor is at 10 o'clock (looking down the barrel).
This throws the cartridges to the right of the rifle.
They are landing about 4-6 feet away when I cycle the bolt.
Empties have never hit my scope or anything else for that matter.
1610297650392.png


I've never owned a Rem 700 or Sako.
Had a few Savage push feed rifles, but didn't have any problems.
I truly believe that is about reliability of an entire system.
My R8 has proven to me to be reliable.
Although I'm not doing it upside-down, in a sandstorm, falling from a plane and underwater.
I'm a normal guy who has tested out this particular rifle in most conditions.
It has worked for me, every single time.
That's my definition of reliable.
 

TOBY458

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I installed this Leupold 2-7×33 on my R8 today. It's what I plan to use on my 375 H&H barrel when it arrives. This is it mounted on my 7mm Rem Mag barrel. Weight is 8lbs 12oz. So, the 375 will weigh a few ounces less I would assume. Should make a perfect package.
One question I do have, are the alloy rings that are mounted on the QD base strong enough for a 375? The base is steel, but the rings are alloy. Wonder if I should use steel rings instead?

20210110_113629.jpg
 
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TTundra

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Here is a picture of my 416RM bolt head.
Ejector is directly at 6 o'clock.
Extractor is at 10 o'clock (looking down the barrel).
This throws the cartridges to the right of the rifle.
They are landing about 4-6 feet away when I cycle the bolt.
Empties have never hit my scope or anything else for that matter.
View attachment 383516

I've never owned a Rem 700 or Sako.
Had a few Savage push feed rifles, but didn't have any problems.
I truly believe that is about reliability of an entire system.
My R8 has proven to me to be reliable.
Although I'm not doing it upside-down, in a sandstorm, falling from a plane and underwater.
I'm a normal guy who has tested out this particular rifle in most conditions.
It has worked for me, every single time.
That's my definition of reliable.
Thanks @BeeMaa . Yes, agreed on the whole system, but if we break it down we can see where some of the legacy issues arise. The standard 700 extractor has a tiny rotational extractor, where at the R8 has completely more robust design and I believe non rotational extractor. I do think 'part' is key to that reliability.

I love the American Rifle Conpany actions. While traditional turnbolt, I believe Ted has solved a lot of the push feed issues. His new 'pseudo' CRF/PF actions use a non rotational extractor. So not a true CRF compared to a master (his Mausingfield action is though) but it has that same concept for extraction.

Appreciate the image as well.
 

BeeMaa

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I installed this Leupold 2-7×33 on my R8 today. It's what I plan to use on my 375 H&H barrel when it arrives. This is it mounted on my 7mm Rem Mag barrel. Weight is 8lbs 12oz. So, the 375 will weigh a few ounces less I would assume. Should make a perfect package.
One question I do have, are the alloy rings that are mounted on the QD base strong enough for a 375? The base is steel, but the rings are alloy. Wonder if I should use steel rings instead?
Did you lap the rings?
Getting proper contact between the scope and rings will help.
You could also just put a small dab of clear acrylic where the scope meets the rings.
Do it on the underside, where it's not immediately noticeable.
Then you can check it after 25-50 shots or so.
 

BeeMaa

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All push feed extractors are rotating, since they are mounted inside the bolt head. A mauser style is considered non rotating because the extractor remains stationary when the bolt is turned.
Unless your push feed happens to be a straight pull.
But I know what you meant.
 

TOBY458

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Did you lap the rings?
Getting proper contact between the scope and rings will help.
You could also just put a small dab of clear acrylic where the scope meets the rings.
Do it on the underside, where it's not immediately noticeable.
Then you can check it after 25-50 shots or so.
No. They seemed to fit very well as is. I doubt they will ever slip, but just wonder how well they will hold up under recoil due to the softer alloy material.
 

BeeMaa

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No. They seemed to fit very well as is. I doubt they will ever slip, but just wonder how well they will hold up under recoil due to the softer alloy material.
Not sure about that.
That was also a concern of mine.
And why I went with the rail mounted scope.
I know, I know...it weighs 1.5# and cost the sun and the moon.
But it works.
1610300183015.png
 
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Red Leg

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No. They seemed to fit very well as is. I doubt they will ever slip, but just wonder how well they will hold up under recoil due to the softer alloy material.
My Leica has been riding in mine for four or five years now. It will not be a problem. Unlike, let's say Ruger, a company that now seems to base product improvement on customer complaints, the German engineers got this correct. You also don't need a rail mount unless you just want one of the ugly things. :cool:
 

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I would like 500 Jeff, 375 H&H or 9.3x62 and 7x64 Brenneke...but cannot...
Sure you can.
1. Get a R8 Professional Hunter, Kilombero or Selous Stock set up. It should come with a Fire Control Group, a Bolt Housing Group and a Kickstop.
2. Choose your barrel(s) along with the appropriate Bolt Head and Magazine.

So,
500 Jeff barrel, JE Bolt Head and Magazine
.375H&H Barrel, MA Bolt Head and Magazine
9.3X62 & 7X64 Brenneke, ST Bolt Head and appropriate Magazine for each, if different.

The configurator will probably only let you configure one complete rifle at a time. So configure it to the .500 Jeff then you purchase the other barrels and associated parts separately.

Attached is a Picture of some of my stuff showing the various parts and the Blaser Catalogue. R8's start on around Page 118.

IMG_1883.jpg
 

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yhc

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I installed this Leupold 2-7×33 on my R8 today. It's what I plan to use on my 375 H&H barrel when it arrives. This is it mounted on my 7mm Rem Mag barrel. Weight is 8lbs 12oz. So, the 375 will weigh a few ounces less I would assume. Should make a perfect package.
One question I do have, are the alloy rings that are mounted on the QD base strong enough for a 375? The base is steel, but the rings are alloy. Wonder if I should use steel rings instead?
@TOBY458 , when I saw this picture of your R8 in your kitchen, I thought for a moment that you have the rifle for sale already!! ;)

As for your question re: the Blaser QD ring bases, I have not had any issues with them for a few years even with 458 Lott.
 

TOBY458

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Toby, when I saw this picture of your R8 in your kitchen, I thought for a moment that you have the rifle for sale already!! ;)

As for your question re: the Blaser QD ring bases, I have not had any issues with them for a few years even with 458 Lott.
Haha! Stranger things have happened!!!

As for your scope mount, are your rings alloy?
 

BeeMaa

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TTundra

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Yes. I was only thinking of traditional bolt guns. You would think I would've caught that seeing as how this is an R8 thread! Hahaha!
Check out the ARC Archimedes. The extractor does not rely on or use rotational camming extraction, rather just linear similar to how the R8 uses linear extraction. For the ARC, it has a cool pivot to the bolt handle. While certainly not the same, using linear force as primary extraction rather than rotational seems to work well and proving to be reliable.

Regardless, I love seeing innovations and improvements coming to our industry and their acceptance.
 
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mikecatt13

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Did you lap the rings?
Getting proper contact between the scope and rings will help.
You could also just put a small dab of clear acrylic where the scope meets the rings.
Do it on the underside, where it's not immediately noticeable.
Then you can check it after 25-50 shots or so.
I used to lap rings. Blaser says not to. As do many other top notch optics companies these days including Nighforce, etc.

One of the best marksman alive today sh as red with me that he puts a thin layer of red loctite on his rings that "glues" them to the scope, then proper torque specs while still wet. Hes a famous 3 gunner (throwing our guns in buckets) as well as sniper who's been through many competitions that absolutely punish guns and swears by it.

As far as rings, I've got the full blaser mount for 300WM and .375, but bought one without rings and added tier one rings for the scope that will be used on the .416 and .470 just to be safe
 

samu

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I used to lap rings. Blaser says not to. As do many other top notch optics companies these days including Nighforce, etc.

One of the best marksman alive today sh as red with me that he puts a thin layer of red loctite on his rings that "glues" them to the scope, then proper torque specs while still wet. Hes a famous 3 gunner (throwing our guns in buckets) as well as sniper who's been through many competitions that absolutely punish guns and swears by it.

As far as rings, I've got the full blaser mount for 300WM and .375, but bought one without rings and added tier one rings for the scope that will be used on the .416 and .470 just to be safe
Loctite in everything between barrel and scope is pretty standard for less delicate use. Some even put some in the blaser QD notches and leave the scope mounted. I've used small dot of blue locktite in the scope ring under the scope and also some on the ring screws, although one must be very careful not to overtighten as the loctite reduces friction thus reducing also torque required for certain tension in the screw.

I did forget this again when i got the 6,5mm barrel for R8, just set it on quickly, confirm the eye relief is perfect and glue later.. Well I remembered to apply the loctite when the scope became completely loose on the range and I suddenly couldn't get a group tighter than 1.5moa. The scope was sliding completely freely in rings at this point. I have to say those Spuhr Hunting rings on Blaser base make very convincing scope mount.
 

One Day...

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@BeeMaa , @One Day... , @Red Leg are the R8 extractors as similar to a 700 m16 modifed extractor as I am thinking, or vastly different.

For lack of having one to closely examine now, are your R8 extractors similar to the m16 or Sako style?

I understand exactly your question TTundra and I do not think that it was answered.

I would say that the answer is: neither.

The Sako-style extractor tension relies on a spring loaded plunger:
1610317128084.png

The M16-style extractor tension relies on a spring loaded pivot:
1610317172591.png

The Blaser extractor tension relies on a very strong and quite heavy-duty external clip spring:

R8  extractor.jpg


My personal experience confirms the experience of BeeMaa, Red Leg, Stuart at Tally-Ho HUNTING SAFARIS, dchamp, etc.: the Blaser extractor has been 100% reliable for me.

Regarding modern cartridges extraction in general, here is what I wrote in my recent R8 review at https://www.africahunting.com/threa...o-months-500-rounds-review.60483/#post-719044:
"I am on record for observing that one of the reasons CRF and its characteristic big external claw extractor were perfected in the 1890’s by Paul Mauser, at the request of the German Imperial Army, was to prevent extraction failure of the pure copper shells loaded with black powder, that were notorious for sticking in dirty chambers after sustained fire. I reckon that brass shells loaded with smokeless powder resolved this issue a long time ago.​
If a case gets stuck nowadays, Mauser claw extractor or not, the action itself is stuck, short of a rubber mallet.​
I do not mourn a Mauser claw extractor on the R8..."​

Regarding CRF feeding, I am on record for observing that the other reason CRF was perfected was to prevent 1890’s peasant conscripts who had never handled a bolt action rifle before:
1) to jam the rifle by double feeding and risk detonating the cartridge in the chamber with the tip of the spitzer bullet of the cartridge being rammed into it;​
2) to load the rifle inadvertently by pushing a cartridge in the chamber and leaving it there.​

I continue to appreciate the fact that in a true Mauser CRF rifle it is impossible to close the bolt on a cartridge inadvertently pushed in the chamber - and I only wish that no CRF extractor would be beveled to allow it to jump the rim of a cartridge already pushed into the chamber, as some manufacturers do. This would make it impossible to load a CRF rifle inadvertently, and to fire it accidentally.

Can one close a R8 action on a cartridge inadvertently present in the chamber? Yes. Is this an accident waiting to happen? My answer is that a R8 decocks automatically when the trigger group/magazine is removed to load it, and that a decocked R8 cannot fire. From the perspective of accidental loading and discharge, I therefore judge the R8 to be as safe as a CRF rifle…

Regarding double feeding, yes the R8 allows double feeding. From this perspective, the Mauser 98 design remains unsurpassed. Is this an issue in the hand of a seasoned hunter? Who knows...


PS: To emphasize the difference between Sako, M16 or Blaser extractor with a Rem 700 extractor, it may be useful to show a Rem 700 extractor. It is a very small piece of stamped metal located inside a recess machined inside the bolt head, Various iterations have come with, then without, a small rivet to maintain it in place. It has a documented history of failure with hot loads generating sticky cases, but it is not as bad as some would let you believe. My own experience with a Remington Defense .300 Win Mag Mk 13 sniper rifle civilian clone in which the shells of the Black Hills190 gr match factory loads stuck, was that it was impossible to open the action without a rubber mallet and that the tiny extractor never released its grip on the stuck cases...

1610317619497.png


PS2: as to R8 steel rings, FYI based on Blaser USA, these were discontinued by Blaser when they transitioned from R93 to R8.
 
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