What is your accuracy standard for a Big Bore bolt gun?

skydiver386

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This past weekend @tinktink12 and I went to our favorite range to sight in her new Savage Custom Shop Lady Hunter 30-06, and tune some other rifles for upcoming hunts.

Her first rifle on the bench was the 257 Roberts using the Hammer Fur Hunter bullets. Groups were all under .75 inches. Let's hope they do the job on our upcoming Klipspringer hunt.

Her new 30-06 rifle decided it did NOT like the factory Barnes 150gn X, delivering groups of around 1.5-2 inches. Switching to the Barnes factory 168gn cut groups to between.5 and .75 inches. Since the 168 is our chosen bullet and ammo for this rifle, we thought why bother testing anything else. This will be her rifle and load for cow Elk and similar sized game.

Moving on to bigger calibers my CZ550 in 375 H&H was next. I had some PPU blue box 300 grain and figured it would shoot to a similar point of aim as the Barnes X. Instead the first shot from a sandbag rest went 5 inches high and an inch right. :confused: Oh well, let's try again. Second shot went 6 inches low and 2 inches left. :( The remaining rounds did about the same.

Checked scope, bedding screws, operator headspace, etc. and no problems. With factory Barnes 300gn X bullets, this rifle does 1.5-2 inches. With Remington factory 300gn AFrames, groups are similar to the Barnes, but slightly different poi.

I plan to use this rifle for Croc on an upcoming hunt. If it does 1.5 inches with the Barnes X or Swift AFrames, am I still in the Ballpark, or should I try to get something more accurate?

I have other big bore rifles that group close to an inch or less, but shooting that PPU is messing with my head.
 
Regarding big bore bolt action rifles, I always try to achieve the best possible shot groups at 50m, or better 100m, regardless of the caliber. Sure, the results look somewhat different with larger calibers due to the diameter of the holes on the target, but I often achieved 1.5 MOA and sometime less at 100m with my rifle caliber 460 Weatherby Magnum, and I was not far off that at 50m with my rifle caliber 500 Schüler. Under optimal conditions on a shooting range and with a bench rest, you have to try to achieve the best shot groups. This is not always easy to do with rifles that have a strong recoil, but in the field, under less than ideal conditions, this level of accuracy compensates for a lot.
 
I hold all bolt actions to the same standard regardles of caliber. I want 1 MOA or less at 100 yards...

I reload though.. so for me its really just a matter of time, trial, and error.. sooner or later I can almost always develop a powder, bullet, primer, combo that will achieve < 1MOA.. If not, the rifle finds some yonder way or gets a new barrel...

For semi autos like my AR15's and AR10's Im a little more fogiving.. typically if I can get sub 2 MOA Im happy.. 2 of my AR15's are true "precision" guns and produce well under .75 MOA with match grade ammo.. the rest are either general purpose or "hunting" builds and will almost always produce 2-3MOA with just about any factory ammo I feed them.. and if/when I build loads for them its typically not too hard to get below the 2 MOA mark..

For a croc, accuracy is everything.. youre trying to hit something the size of a walnut (less a 2" ball).. Shots shouldnt be a super long way away.. but.. youre likely not going to get "elephant" close to one either.. I think my wife shot hers at about 50 yards (started at about 35 yards.. but then the croc moved and the best we could do was I think 50-55 yards)... For me personally, I'd try to find a load (or a rifle) that you can count on sub MOA accuracy at 100 yards for a croc hunt..
 
I would clean it after shooting the barns
“it is highly recommended to clean your gun after shooting Barnes X-bullets (or any monolithic copper bullet) to remove fouling and ensure continued accuracy. While some argue that copper fouling from solids can be left to foul the barrel, Barnes suggests that cleaning ensures the best potential for accuracy. Because Barnes bullets are solid copper, they can create different fouling characteristics than traditional lead-core bullets”

I like to keep my 375 @ 1-1 1/2 and couldn’t after shooting mono’s ( but all my other rifles do the same)
A 1 MOA is my maximum for everything under a medium to big bore
 
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This past weekend @tinktink12 and I went to our favorite range to sight in her new Savage Custom Shop Lady Hunter 30-06, and tune some other rifles for upcoming hunts.

Her first rifle on the bench was the 257 Roberts using the Hammer Fur Hunter bullets. Groups were all under .75 inches. Let's hope they do the job on our upcoming Klipspringer hunt.

Her new 30-06 rifle decided it did NOT like the factory Barnes 150gn X, delivering groups of around 1.5-2 inches. Switching to the Barnes factory 168gn cut groups to between.5 and .75 inches. Since the 168 is our chosen bullet and ammo for this rifle, we thought why bother testing anything else. This will be her rifle and load for cow Elk and similar sized game.

Moving on to bigger calibers my CZ550 in 375 H&H was next. I had some PPU blue box 300 grain and figured it would shoot to a similar point of aim as the Barnes X. Instead the first shot from a sandbag rest went 5 inches high and an inch right. :confused: Oh well, let's try again. Second shot went 6 inches low and 2 inches left. :( The remaining rounds did about the same.

Checked scope, bedding screws, operator headspace, etc. and no problems. With factory Barnes 300gn X bullets, this rifle does 1.5-2 inches. With Remington factory 300gn AFrames, groups are similar to the Barnes, but slightly different poi.

I plan to use this rifle for Croc on an upcoming hunt. If it does 1.5 inches with the Barnes X or Swift AFrames, am I still in the Ballpark, or should I try to get something more accurate?

I have other big bore rifles that group close to an inch or less, but shooting that PPU is messing with my head.
Yes, it was a frustrating day at the range and you start doubting yourself. @skydiver386 you need to go back to the factory Barnes you used in Africa last time that you were so successful in one shooting all your animals.
 
I had this same thought and I'm just not satisfied unless it'll shoot <1moa. I am a handloader and it took me a bit to develop a load with my 375 but I found 2 different powder combos it likes with a 300gr A frame. Luckily it also shoots factory Swift, Barnes, and Pendleton all <1moa but I like to tinker and wanted to see what it would really do. It hated Hornady DGX at about 2moa and also didn't care for TBBC at about 1.5moa.

I also found, as posted above, I needed to clean barrel after shooting the Barnes, so now I stick with A frame only.

I've also never spent much time shooting a larger bore rifle and had to work a bit on fundamentals to get tiny groups with it.
 
My 416RM shot MOA groups with factory SAF ammo and that’s what I’d expect from anything up to .458 caliber. If not, it would be time for hand loading.

The 375H&H (not a big bore) also shoots sub MOA with factory loads.

Both are Blaser barrels and they are known for having very good accuracy.

EDIT - @pilar - I only shoot Barnes TSX for my expanding bullets and only perform a light cleaning after a range session or hunting trip. If anything has happened, they have gotten more accurate over time. I’ve seen more damage done cleaning a barrel (in the military) than just doing the minimum.
 
I would clean it after shooting the barns
“it is highly recommended to clean your gun after shooting Barnes X-bullets (or any monolithic copper bullet) to remove fouling and ensure continued accuracy. While some argue that copper fouling from solids can be left to foul the barrel, Barnes suggests that cleaning ensures the best potential for accuracy. Because Barnes bullets are solid copper, they can create different fouling characteristics than traditional lead-core bullets”

I like to keep my 375 @ 1-1 1/2 and couldn’t after shooting mono’s ( but all my other rifles do the same)
A 1 MOA is my maximum for everything under a medium to big bore

I only hunt with Barnes and this is key. I have shot lead core ammo for fun and switched back to Barnes without cleaning to see terrible accuracy. When I clean thoroughly using an overnight soak of Wipe Out foaming bore cleaner I get the same great accuracy I had before.

I have no explanation on why they react so adversely but it can be extreme like you experienced.
 
I shoot a couple fouling shots on a clean bore before sighting in the rifle. I then sight in the rifle and shoot several 3 or 5 shot groups. If the group is larger than 1 MOA then I change the load, bullet seating, bullet weight, etc.

If I am shooting factory ammo, I move on to my next ammo choice or bullet weight. If a 300 gain TSX does not group like I want I try a different grain TSX ammo. Check the twist on the barrel to know which bullet to start with!
 
1MOA or less at 100 yds 3 shots. I hand load so with a good barrel that is almost always achievable.
I don't like monolith bullets, esp. don't like Barnes. Monoliths are just too hard on double rifle barrels, so I avoid them. Have never been impressed with accuracy.
 
I expect MOA from all my bolt guns. Larger caliber rifles are certainly capable of MOA if the rifle person does their job. In fact, factors that can negatively impact light calibers won’t show up on large heavy calibers. In regards to Croc, as @mdwest said, accuracy is everything because it’s brain is golf ball size. Any shot other than the brain and the croc will use its gymnastic tail to flip into deeper water. Then the grid search will take hours if not days to find and recover the Croc. This Croc was taken with a brain shot at 130 yards across a tributary of the Zambezi River at the Indian Ocean. It took most of the day to get into position for the shot and two weeks hunting the Mangrove Swamps to find the bull I was looking for. It took a couple days before I could begin identifying a male from female Croc. Crocodiles are surprisingly alert to every movement in their environment.
 

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A few comments for you:

  • I have never gotten great accuracy/precision from factory PPU ammo. It is OK for practice and rough zero only.
  • I agree that you will want to clean your bore well after shooting a lot of copper mono bullets. Do not clean with copper solvent. Instead use a very mild abrasive such as KG #2 bore polish. The goal is to polish the surface but leave the copper in the pores of the metal. This is a light polish and not a scouring job. Be gentle as less is more here. This will both improve precision of the bbl and improve the accuracy of the cold bore shot which is critical on Croc shots.
  • As for precision with a medium bore rifle such as a 375HH? My factory FN Browning shot 1.5" at 100y but improved to 1" after cleaning. My custom P14 with Shaw bbl routinely shoots 0.5-0.75" at 100y. This is both rifles with 300g Barnes TSX. 300g A-Frames are similar and 270g TBBC are slightly larger groups and 3" higher POI at 100y for the faster 270g loads.
  • Since a croc's brain is only about 2" I would want to have a more accurate rifle and you do not need a 375 to kill a croc. The 30-06 is enough or a 7mm Mag or 300wm even better. Talk to your PH about how far the shot would be and zero the rifle for that distance or know your ballistics every well. Normally, I zero my rifles for 200y which is about 2" high at 100y and close to zero again at 50y. So, if my croc is going to be at 100y the rifle would miss unless I adjust my aim to allow for this. Either way, know your ballistics at every distance in 10y or 25y increments so you can adjust for this small variance.
  • Use a quality ballistics program to set up a ballistics card for each rifle and its chosen load for the hunt. I use Strelok Pro but there are others. In my case, I memorize it but the card is enough.
  • When you set up the croc blind, laser range from the blind to the bait and this will let you know what the drop of the bullet will be. Ideally, you would want a point blank shot for croc.
  • For croc I would consider using a more explosive bullet than the TSX. Something like a Nosler BT, or Federal Fusion but in the end, bullet placement will be far more important than bullet choice. Again, talk to your PH. The goal is to scramble his gourd with the first shot.
 
The common term Minute of Buffalo can be a misnomer.

If your groups start at 2” at the range. And you add physical exertion and then adrenaline. Where your heartbeat is moving the sights or cross hairs too much. That can turn a 2” group into a 4” group. Or a pulled shot.

Shot groups are great. But stalking and killing a lot of small less expensive, less dangerous animals is even better. Try to shoot numerous PG before the DG.
 
This past weekend @tinktink12 and I went to our favorite range to sight in her new Savage Custom Shop Lady Hunter 30-06, and tune some other rifles for upcoming hunts.

Her first rifle on the bench was the 257 Roberts using the Hammer Fur Hunter bullets. Groups were all under .75 inches. Let's hope they do the job on our upcoming Klipspringer hunt.

Her new 30-06 rifle decided it did NOT like the factory Barnes 150gn X, delivering groups of around 1.5-2 inches. Switching to the Barnes factory 168gn cut groups to between.5 and .75 inches. Since the 168 is our chosen bullet and ammo for this rifle, we thought why bother testing anything else. This will be her rifle and load for cow Elk and similar sized game.

Moving on to bigger calibers my CZ550 in 375 H&H was next. I had some PPU blue box 300 grain and figured it would shoot to a similar point of aim as the Barnes X. Instead the first shot from a sandbag rest went 5 inches high and an inch right. :confused: Oh well, let's try again. Second shot went 6 inches low and 2 inches left. :( The remaining rounds did about the same.

Checked scope, bedding screws, operator headspace, etc. and no problems. With factory Barnes 300gn X bullets, this rifle does 1.5-2 inches. With Remington factory 300gn AFrames, groups are similar to the Barnes, but slightly different poi.

I plan to use this rifle for Croc on an upcoming hunt. If it does 1.5 inches with the Barnes X or Swift AFrames, am I still in the Ballpark, or should I try to get something more accurate?

I have other big bore rifles that group close to an inch or less, but shooting that PPU is messing with my head.
Id suggest playing eith the powder and seating depth. Differe t rifles have different accuracy nodes. Just adjust till you find it.
 
this is two shot group shot at 100 yards from a rest, by myself and another man, out of a cz 550 .375 H&H. i don,t remember the load, but used this rifle and load on six hunting trips to africa. acurett enough for me.
 

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I know it was not your direct question but you mentioned it’s for a croc - on croc I would go with your most accurate reasonable option. You really need a brain shot on a golf ball. I used 300 wm on mine for this reason and am glad I did. Lean toward accuracy over large caliber on this critter.
 

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I only hunt with Barnes and this is key. I have shot lead core ammo for fun and switched back to Barnes without cleaning to see terrible accuracy. When I clean thoroughly using an overnight soak of Wipe Out foaming bore cleaner I get the same great accuracy I had before.

I have no explanation on why they react so adversely but it can be extreme like you experienced.
this comment and the earlier one about fouling with Barnes is absolutely true. I found this out the hard way recently, as I had previously thought it was nonsense and I don't like cleaning rifles any more than necessary. My 30-06, which also likes the TTSX 168s and will shoot 1/2" groups all day and has been taken out long range often started acting up. like 3" groups. I ALMOST tore the whole rifle down looking for the problem when I decided to try getting all the copper out of the barrel first and my accuracy came right back. It only had about 200 rounds through it since the last cleaning too. Happens fast.
 
I would submit the accuracy requirements to kill a croc at 80 yards are very different than those to kill a broadside buffalo at 80 yards. "accuracy" is only relative to the task at hand. For benchrest shooters, 0.75 MOA is a joke; in a .416 Weatherby, it's lights out. If you think that you need to put a bullet to within 1" of your point of aim at impact, identify the likely shooting range, then add maybe another 25%. When you get a load that predictably hits your target at that range call it a day and move on with your life.
 

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