Poor Man's Double Rifle

Any load data on those brenneke brass shells?

I am very reluctant to share reloading data for obvious reasons.

On the brass shells the ones I use are thicker than normal ones.

Too many variables to just share what I am using for safety reasons(Make and type of shotgun, cases, powder, slug etc.

Where are you from as I use local powder(RSA) which differ from others?

Perhaps a PM would be a better option and I would be glad to share some info.
 
I am very reluctant to share reloading data for obvious reasons.

On the brass shells the ones I use are thicker than normal ones.

Too many variables to just share what I am using for safety reasons(Make and type of shotgun, cases, powder, slug etc.

Where are you from as I use local powder(RSA) which differ from others?

Perhaps a PM would be a better option and I would be glad to share some info.
PM sent
 
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love this thread! makes me want to build a similar gun! thanks @IvW
 
Thanks for taking the time to share this with us. Great way to get into a great alternative to the high priced doubles. Effective too. Good pics!
Bruce
 
Necessity is the mother of invention. (y)

Thanks for sharing this thread. Really cool.
 
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Great idea! Seems effective
 
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IvW, thanks for the write up, it would be an interesting project and hunting tool.
 
Thank you for posting about this gun!
I have never seen brass hulls with my own eyes. Looks like you can load them longer, leaving more space for powder. More power without excessive pressure? Is there any published load data?

What kind of range can you shoot at, with the peep sight? I suppose the trajectory is fairly curved, so that must be one limiting factor.
 
IVW,

i checked with a gunsmith today about your idea. he said a problem with cutting the barrels is that if they are not soldered behind the cut, one might have lost any regulation of the shot gun. was it an issue for yours? very cool idea.
 
IVW,

i checked with a gunsmith today about your idea. he said a problem with cutting the barrels is that if they are not soldered behind the cut, one might have lost any regulation of the shot gun. was it an issue for yours? very cool idea.
1dirthawker - How short are you looking to go?
There are several inexpensive (less than $500) options with barrels in the 20-24" range in both SxS and O/U available on GB.
And by inexpensive, I don't necessarily mean cheap although that is what I believe is kinda the point.
Making due with what one has at hand to accomplish the task.
 
What bore did you end up with after cutting the barrels back?

Also, did the smith Silver Solder the front sight on? I really like that setup, and I shoot a lot of shotgun (both Buckshot for coyotes and Slugs).
 
IvW, that was a fantastic post. You use a 2 3/4 inch round. I wonder what that would be like in a 3 1/2 inch. I bet it would one helluva effective machine.
 
Thank you for posting about this gun!
I have never seen brass hulls with my own eyes.

Check out ChrisG' s thread "12 Bore Schrifle Project" Magtech brass hulls.
 
Thank you for posting about this gun!
I have never seen brass hulls with my own eyes. Looks like you can load them longer, leaving more space for powder. More power without excessive pressure? Is there any published load data?

What kind of range can you shoot at, with the peep sight? I suppose the trajectory is fairly curved, so that must be one limiting factor.


For reloading shotgun brass cartridge data, over powder and over shot cards, and brass check out Ballistic Products.

Surprisingly, a 12. gauge shotgun loaded with factory 3 inch plastic hull, 7/16 ounce lead slug, with a muzzle velocity 1886 feet per second, has an effective kill range on whitetail deer in excess of 500 yards.

As for "bullet" trajectory; using a ballistic calculator, iron sights with 1/2 inch sight height, 25 yard zero, gave me 7.70 inches bullet drop at 150 yards.
 
IVW,

i checked with a gunsmith today about your idea. he said a problem with cutting the barrels is that if they are not soldered behind the cut, one might have lost any regulation of the shot gun. was it an issue for yours? very cool idea.

@1dirthawker

I started with a old Brno shotgun and as far as I have been told this is a side lock (also mentioned above), well made and very strong, action and barrels). I have no idea how many slugs I have put through the barrels but it is a lot and the action is as tight as the day I bought it.

Mine started off as 28 inches, we cut 4 inches off leaving us with a well balanced 24 inches. Was no problem barrels where soldered. Had no issues with the regulation. Front "Triangle" between the rib and barrels where neatly closed and you cannot see the barrels where cut.

You do not want to go too short on the barrels as you need the shotgun pwder to completely burn before the slug leaves the barrel.

Although I have taken some longer shots, I built this as a short range leopard stopping rifle. 50 yard regulation is of no concern as wounded leopard mostly charge from 10 yards or less.

Mine shoots very well further out.

I will see if I can do some target shooting and post the targets(did it when I built the rifle but never bothered to keep them).
 
What bore did you end up with after cutting the barrels back?

Also, did the smith Silver Solder the front sight on? I really like that setup, and I shoot a lot of shotgun (both Buckshot for coyotes and Slugs).

Never measured the bores after cutting, I ques I could.

The brass bead was put back in place and he then machined the bottom side of the front sight to fit over the bead as well as neatly over the rib. It is removable, I will have to take it out and check where the screws are(under the front replaceable sight I think, cannot remember). I had it done this way as the bead worked well and had the idea to make it removable just in case or for wing shooting. I never did remove it after fitting and it has been many years.

I see the picture of the front sight has not been put in the original post were it should be, here it is.

upload_2019-2-5_7-17-36.png
 

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