Talk me out of a 416

Rule 303

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416 or 404, you wont go wrong. However I have a 416 Rigby and it is great. It can shoot flat enough to use to 400mts if you can shoot that far. It has the boiler room to handle mono metals without up setting the powder space (as a result my Hydros and soft point have the same powder charge and same point of impact). The other 416's do not.
 

njc110381

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Just to throw my thoughts in there, is there really much point in stepping up to a .416 if you have a .375? Sure it's got a bit more grunt, but is there that much in it?

If I had a .375H&H already I don't think I'd buy a .416, I'd want to step up to a proper thumper. CZ offer the .505 Gibbs in their 550 Safari lineup. Just saying...
 

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Hmmm...i think you should get a fine SxS 470 NE. After all its only going to be used on buff and elephant. The perfect set-up! And after you get it, you’ll discover how many buffalo you could have shot for what it cost!
Good luck in your decision!
 

Rule 303

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Just to throw my thoughts in there, is there really much point in stepping up to a .416 if you have a .375? Sure it's got a bit more grunt, but is there that much in it?

If I had a .375H&H already I don't think I'd buy a .416, I'd want to step up to a proper thumper. CZ offer the .505 Gibbs in their 550 Safari lineup. Just saying...

Each to their own. However for me the 416 was the right step. Plenty of difference in bullet diameter and thump. Now for the big + the 416 is about my recoil tolerance so going bigger would not be the right decision for me.
 

Philip Glass

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I'm just back from my second plains game safari in SA and already planning my next trip. It will be for buff and (four of) the tiny ten in Moz. About 90% sure I've picked the outfitter after meeting the two finalists at DSC this year that I'd researched. Guessing that buff will be on my list a lot going forward. Does anybody only hunt buff once?!?

I have a 375 H&H that I shoot pretty well. It's a CZ with the Aramid stock, and I've had loads of work done to it to get it exactly like I wanted - slicked up for perfect feeding, Timney trigger, good 3 position safety, cerakote. It's comfortable to shoot. It's plenty accurate with factory ammo, and I haven't even started handloading for it.

But when I was in SA in 2017 I tagged along for a couple of buff hunts. One was shot with a 300 grain slug from a 375 , while the second was shot with a 400 grain 416 slug. The reactions were pretty different and got me thinking about a 416 for buff.

So, talk me out of a 416. 375 is plenty of gun for buffalo, right? Sure it is. But would it be your first choice for buff? I need a new rifle/caliber like I need another hole in my head.
.416 is ideal for buff and is what I used. I would not
Hesitate to use a .375 though. Just keep shooting! I would like to hear what outfitter you have chosen as I am interested in exactly the same hunt. It would be my 2nd buff and I would add sable in Moz. Let us know your plans please.
Philip
 

Philip Glass

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On my next safari like what you mention here I will take a .470 NE for buff and .375 for everything else. That’s what I’ve been thinking anyway
Philip
 

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Welp I have both. I took my lion and sorta my buff with a 416. If I had it to do over I’d just taken my 375. That being said my 416 is a 416 Ruger not Rigby. I have every intention of buying a 416 Rigby in the future but....... I also have a love affair starting with a 458 Lott and the 470 NE. My solution is to save pennies and over time buy them all.
At the end of the day who doesn’t need a 416. That’s like saying I have an apple so I don’t need an orange. My advise is to buy every caliber over time you want, then you never look back and say “ I wish I had a......” but of course I am an absolute gun nut and a firm believer that one can never have enough guns.
 

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Besides guns are an excellent investment
 

wesheltonj

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toby,
it is worrying that heym claim 2x barrel life and no need to run in a barrel made by hammer forging.
such statements make you wonder what other crock they are trying to peddle.
bruce.

SAKO also makes the claim that the barrel does not need breaking-in too. That the rifling is hammered forged, thus not necessary. Just one of the reasons I prefer SAKO.
 

njc110381

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Each to their own. However for me the 416 was the right step. Plenty of difference in bullet diameter and thump. Now for the big + the 416 is about my recoil tolerance so going bigger would not be the right decision for me.

I'm right with you on that if his recoil tolerance is anything like ours. As you know I went with a .416 Rigby over a .375 for my one gun does all, and the more I shoot it the more glad I am that the Lott I was after initially didn't happen. I think my cut off point is a Rigby too, at least at the moment. I'm sure I could build up to bigger but for now it's about as much as I can tolerate.

I don't know why but the real big bores just appeal to me so much. If I lived in a country where I could have and shoot a .5something I would have one just to see if I could master it!
 

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375 is plenty for a buff
But if you do decide you need another rifle, which obviously you do, dont discount the 416 rem mag!!!
Its the best thung since sliced bread

Regards
 

Tokoloshe Safaris

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I'm just back from my second plains game safari in SA and already planning my next trip. It will be for buff and (four of) the tiny ten in Moz. About 90% sure I've picked the outfitter after meeting the two finalists at DSC this year that I'd researched. Guessing that buff will be on my list a lot going forward. Does anybody only hunt buff once?!?

I have a 375 H&H that I shoot pretty well. It's a CZ with the Aramid stock, and I've had loads of work done to it to get it exactly like I wanted - slicked up for perfect feeding, Timney trigger, good 3 position safety, cerakote. It's comfortable to shoot. It's plenty accurate with factory ammo, and I haven't even started handloading for it.

But when I was in SA in 2017 I tagged along for a couple of buff hunts. One was shot with a 300 grain slug from a 375 , while the second was shot with a 400 grain 416 slug. The reactions were pretty different and got me thinking about a 416 for buff.

So, talk me out of a 416. 375 is plenty of gun for buffalo, right? Sure it is. But would it be your first choice for buff? I need a new rifle/caliber like I need another hole in my head.


I am sorry there is something that I do not understand? WHAT DOES NEED HAVE TO DO WITH PURCHASING ANOTHER RIFLE? The right .404 is a great caliber also!
 

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Welp I have both. I took my lion and sorta my buff with a 416. If I had it to do over I’d just taken my 375. That being said my 416 is a 416 Ruger not Rigby. I have every intention of buying a 416 Rigby in the future but....... I also have a love affair starting with a 458 Lott and the 470 NE. My solution is to save pennies and over time buy them all.
At the end of the day who doesn’t need a 416. That’s like saying I have an apple so I don’t need an orange. My advise is to buy every caliber over time you want, then you never look back and say “ I wish I had a......” but of course I am an absolute gun nut and a firm believer that one can never have enough guns.

Agreed - never enough guns (of course)!
 

bruce moulds

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SAKO also makes the claim that the barrel does not need breaking-in too. That the rifling is hammered forged, thus not necessary. Just one of the reasons I prefer SAKO.

i rest my case.
no more sakos here, from experience, and that is just another reason not to own this overpriced product.
if they don't know what they are talking about here, what else might be wrong.?
bruce.
 

njc110381

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i rest my case.
no more sakos here, from experience, and that is just another reason not to own this overpriced product.
if they don't know what they are talking about here, what else might be wrong.?
bruce.

I've always been under the impression that barrel run in is done to smooth out the tiny burrs left by various cutting processes. If a barrel is forged on a mandrel so no cuts are made, the surface won't have those burrs and as such they don't need to be flattened? I'm completely with you on the barrel life claim as I can't see how that process makes a barrel more resistant to wear?
 

bruce moulds

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barrels go west from flame erosion, and no process avoids that.
the minute you put a reamer in a barrel, there are cross marks that act like a file on the bullet, causing jacket fouling until ironed out and flame eroded.
hammer forging the chamber might get rid of this.
the beast barrels for minimal running in (bore only) are cut rifled hand lapped, as the lay of the fine roughness goes in favour of bullet travel.
the bullet s burnish this to an even finish when done properly.
hammer forged barrels are not dead smooth as many imagine.
bruce.
 

Rule 303

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To me running a barrel in just waste ammo and helps wear the barrel. I have run barrels in on some and not on other rifles. The degree of fouling between both methods is 3 fifth of fuck all. What I do nowadays if a new barrel has a lot of fouling is lap it with some JB's bore paste. Problem solved and no extra barrel wear. I do agree that Sako's are now overpriced.

I have found Hammer Forged barrels to be better as far as fouling goes but others have found the other way round, just personal experiences. I did read an article that said the hammer forging process work hardens the barrel so the steel is harder than other rifling methods, thus being harder wearing. This might well be the case but I would suggest the difference would be fairly small.
 

wesheltonj

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i rest my case.
no more sakos here, from experience, and that is just another reason not to own this overpriced product.
if they don't know what they are talking about here, what else might be wrong.?
bruce.

I supposed Blaser is wrong too?
 

bruce moulds

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it is just a case of their marketing department overriding their scientific department, and convincing those that don't know how it works that black is white.
bruce.
I supposed Blaser is wrong too?
another brand that is overpriced.
bruce.
 

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