Proclamation: Iron Will Single Bevel broadheads are still the best

[rookhawk]

Lots of great reviews of these broadheads on this board and elsewhere. A quick anecdote as to why I renew my claim they are the best you can buy that happened this week.

My son's bow is pathetically weak. 22" draw. 42lb draw weight. The charts suggest his bow is effective for game up to and including turkey. Nonetheless, he's been hunting big game with it since he was 9 years old, 100% pass throughs on all large animals from bear to deer to impala.

Earlier this week he shot a buck and for whatever reason, the arrow broke at the fletching. At the point to the shot, he recovered the bloody fletchings. 20 yards thereafter, he recovered the broadhead and 20" of arrow shaft. The buck was piled up 40 yards from the shot. Looking at the wound channel, the arrow rotated, skating across the ribs, until it found the opening between the ribs and passed right through.

I don't think a light arrow, nor a weaker/duller/multi-bevel broadhead would have had the sharpness and momentum to drill half an arrow all the way through a big game animal leading to a clean pass through with two holes.

Why is this relevant to AH? Because the same broadhead being used on cape buffalo with a pathetically weak 70-80lb safari bow is going to have the same potential challenges. It better be sharp, have zero curling, it better have the least drag possible (single bevel), and it better keep rotating until it finds an opening through bone before it loses all its momentum.

That's my PSA for the week. Enjoy.

 

[schmijar]

More details please! What is his broadhead weight and total arrow weight?

 

[rookhawk]

More details please! What is his broadhead weight and total arrow weight?

We are big fans of the Iron Will 150gr "Buffalo" which is the single bevel with NO bleeders. We like this one because you can use it for Turkey and White Tails in America, but with a much stouter Ethics Insert you can push the FOC weight way, way up. It allows you to have one broadhead for all applications, provided you have the right inserts and arrow shafts appropriate for the given task.

They are made of tool steel and they hold their edge very well, allowing you to strop them to razor sharp after every kill to get them back to sharper than factory new.

His arrow weight is right around 500gr total arrow weight and about 30% FOC. His limiting factor at present is draw length, very little can be gained by increasing his draw weight. In a couple of years, we'll upgrade his arrows to 650gr or more so he can use his USA arrows for everything smaller than Eland as well.

Ethics inserts/outserts are another critical build component. Shafts don't seem to matter too much in the equation, although we've had best luck for him using Axis 5mm arrows rather than 4mm...they seem to penetrate better which is probably because a larger tube of equal spine recovers from flex faster.

 

[schmijar]

The quality increase in hunting arrow components the last 10 years has been pretty amazing. I'm always interested to hear guys specs on real world hunting setups. I am a believer in heavy arrows and heavy bullets alike! Congrats to your son.

 

[rookhawk]

The quality increase in hunting arrow components the last 10 years has been pretty amazing. I'm always interested to hear guys specs on real world hunting setups. I am a believer in heavy arrows and heavy bullets alike! Congrats to your son.

Amen. Ethics archery inserts and outserts are a game changer. Truly, they make an arrow a bullet with a string attached. As was the case this week, the string broke off the back end, but it mattered not one bit. (high FOC and good tech at the front end of the arrow is key)

 

[thriller]

I agree I use pretty much only Iron Will and Grizzly stick broadheads/ inserts at this point.

 

[Altitude sickness]

I killed a Buffalo with a 250 Iron Will buff head. FMJ 250s 1028 grains total. Shot him slightly quartering to me. No follow up shots needed. He was bellowing within 120 yards

Iron Will BHs are hard to beat

 

[Altitude sickness]

Entry rib. Circle is the entrance on his shoulder. Quartering to me.

The BH suffered zero damage. So months later at home. I was curious what it would take to destroy that head so I got some large Angus femur’s and did some destructive testing.

 

[rookhawk]

Entry rib. Circle is the entrance on his shoulder. Quartering to me.

The BH suffered zero damage. So months later at home. I was curious what it would take to destroy that head so I got some large Angus femur’s and did some destructive testing. View attachment 567004View attachment 567005View attachment 567011View attachment 567010View attachment 567012View attachment 567014View attachment 567013View attachment 567015

Try harder if you want to break that iron will. Lol. The edge curl is so minor you could clean it up on a 1000 grit stone in about 3 mins. Very impressive.

The one question I have for you (and others) is why the love of FMJs? They dent and they rob you of FOC. Wouldn't you rather have a lighter shaft with more FOC and less risk of denting? I never could understand the benefit of an arrow that dents and robs FOC. Looking forward to your counterpoint.

 

[Altitude sickness]

I installed two 75 grain brass inserts at the front. It was high 20s not quite 30% for FOC.

Last year when I took my Recurve for Eland, I went with a Valkyrie Reign arrow, very stiff and very high FOC because I was using a 48 pound recurve

FMJs are popular because they’re very consistent spine and weight. Many carbon fibers are not consistent impacting your accuracy and groups.

 

[rookhawk]

I installed two 75 grain brass inserts at the front. It was high 20s not quite 30% for FOC.

Last year when I took my Recurve for Eland, I went with a Valkyrie Reign arrow, very stiff and very high FOC because I was using a 48 pound recurve

FMJs are popular because they’re very consistent spine and weight. Many carbon fibers are not consistent impacting your accuracy and groups.

Fair point. The thing I hate about the setup you describe are the 75gr brass easton inserts, the same ones I used on Easton Axis arrows. They have little integrity and the carbon or aluminum shaft is pressed right up to the ferrule of the arrow. If you use an ethics insert/outsert system, it gives a lot more structural integrity and weight up front, depending on if you want more weight. Check them out. Also, be advised that they prevent flex up front so you gain spine by having less of the shaft that can flex.

 

[Altitude sickness]

after I killed my Buffalo. My wife and I sat on an old concrete water tank about 6’ in diameter very crudely built. She was hoping for a sable with her crossbow. Well a big male baboon was coming our way and as he walked by the blind I shot him at approximately 5 yards. The arrow zipped through and hit the concrete, blowing a large chunk out. There was minimal damage to the IW head and the FMJ arrow still spun well.

For those that don’t know. an Easton FMJ arrow is a carbon fiber arrow with a very strong alloy over the top.

Rookhawk, for my May of 2022 Eland hunt I carried my 48# bushmen recurve bow.

Valkyrie Reign arrows with their “pin” system. Insert/outsert. And the internal broadhead pin strengthens the front portion of the shaft.

It’s a very strong, ridged, high FOC setup. The downside is you are restricted to use a Valkyrie Jagger BH. Which work great. But do not come as sharp as the Iron Will BH does. So I spent a long time polishing the cutting edge of the Valkyrie BH

with rouge on cardboard.

 

[rookhawk]

Ironwill makes something similar to the pic above, they call it a "snyder core". I don't know much about them since I opted to buy a lot of Ironwill Buffalo Single Bevel 150gr to be used for a variety of bows and hunters in the household.

 

[Tam Dl]

In some ways, I don't think we are seeing that huge a difference in broadhead performance today. The science behind high FOC is great, but the reality among the guys I see shooting is basically they are shooting the front half of what we used to shoot, and at lower velocities. And we were shooting Snuffers and Grizzlies back in the 80s also. One friend of mine was provincial 3D champion with a 100 pound bow. He was that rare guy who could shoot heavy well. Basically people need a minimum, and better gear, to the extent that it exists, lets them shoot realistic desk jockey poundages with accuracy and penetration. Which is great now that there are more participants in the game.

When the Natal study came out, I switched to Grizzly single blades on the spot because they were the cheapest heads made as well as highly effective. I don't think the new heads are any better for being machined, and the prices don't seem to be encouraging practice, even if they aren't particularly expensive in the context of ammo in general.

 

[HankBuck]

Lots of great reviews of these broadheads on this board and elsewhere. A quick anecdote as to why I renew my claim they are the best you can buy that happened this week.

My son's bow is pathetically weak. 22" draw. 42lb draw weight. The charts suggest his bow is effective for game up to and including turkey. Nonetheless, he's been hunting big game with it since he was 9 years old, 100% pass throughs on all large animals from bear to deer to impala.

Earlier this week he shot a buck and for whatever reason, the arrow broke at the fletching. At the point to the shot, he recovered the bloody fletchings. 20 yards thereafter, he recovered the broadhead and 20" of arrow shaft. The buck was piled up 40 yards from the shot. Looking at the wound channel, the arrow rotated, skating across the ribs, until it found the opening between the ribs and passed right through.

I don't think a light arrow, nor a weaker/duller/multi-bevel broadhead would have had the sharpness and momentum to drill half an arrow all the way through a big game animal leading to a clean pass through with two holes.

Why is this relevant to AH? Because the same broadhead being used on cape buffalo with a pathetically weak 70-80lb safari bow is going to have the same potential challenges. It better be sharp, have zero curling, it better have the least drag possible (single bevel), and it better keep rotating until it finds an opening through bone before it loses all its momentum.

That's my PSA for the week. Enjoy.

ROOKHAWK, you have good success with that broadhead - I assume its accurate in the bows you shoot it from? Your 42 lb bow is “more then adequate” for deer - certainly more then just a turkey killer.. Before compound bows were invented and used - “Real Men” had to pull every pound of any bows they used and bows in the 30lb range killed plenty of whitetails in the 1950s & 60s even hurling wood arrow with 2 blade broadheads - that traveled at “only” 190-210 fps. NJ Game laws allowed use of any bow 35lbs and heavier for deer/bear....and laws & game wardens in NJ have never been known for being “Hunter Friendly”. Bows/arrows/broadheads - it’s accuracy that matters most, whatever that bow shoots into a tight group out to 15-30 yrds matters, Broadheads, draw weight, are secondary: it ain’t the arrow - it’s the Indian. You get deer because You place your shots well, take good shots presented within range - equipment is a distant 2nd - but if it give you confidence than that cannot be undervalued either. Of course a 60 lb compound bow propelling an arrow at 280-300fps has more energy and likely a longer range - only IF you can hit with it. Although i’m Always interested in equipment & technology (and Now shoot a compound bow & aluminum shafts) it’s a good archer & Hunter that I admire. A 40 lb bow and even and any reasonably sharp broadhead will have lethal results when used by a skilled Archer. Like magnum rifles - some guys pull a bow too heavy for them, not as accurate with it - can’t hold their draw long enough or even pull it back at all “on a cold morning”.. Just my take

 

[rookhawk]

@HankBuck , the challenge we had is that my son wasn’t getting good advice. He walked into a few bow shops when he was 7 and stated he was practicing for Turkey the next spring, deer the next Fall, and bear the following summer, all before he goes on safari.

The bow shops were all quite adamant that none of this was possible. They argued with me and my kid extensively, pulling out all the KE charts explaining there is not enough energy, etc, etc.

That was what started this journey. Kid bows. The science is sound and I do shoot the same technology and high FOC myself, but I draw 70lbs at 32”, so I can literally do everything wrong with the worst arrows ever and be successful.

Except for his first hunt at 27lb draw and 21.5” for Turkey, up to his 42lb draw at about 23.5” today, he has always got a pass through. (Although he has broken arrows in two on kills)

The ethics inserts, heavy FOC, and the good cut on contact broadheads razor sharp I think are making the difference. We had better results than with the grizzly samurai or the Magnus stingers he used previously. I suspect his success is also because his arrows are so heavy that his bow is very quiet, reducing risk of jumping the string.

I use the same broadheads, but my arrows weigh 650gr because they can.

 

[Altitude sickness]

None of the bows shown are above 50#. two are 45# ish and are selfbows that I made.

KE charts will show that none of these are capable of killing the animal laying beside me.

A perfectly tuned, stiff arrow. and a tough,sharp BH. My favorite is the Iron Will. It lacks nothing.

 

[HankBuck]

View attachment 569523View attachment 569524View attachment 569525View attachment 569526View attachment 569527
None of the bows shown are above 50#. two are 45# ish and are selfbows that I made.

KE charts will show that none of these are capable of killing the animal laying beside me.

A perfectly tuned, stiff arrow. and a tough,sharp BH. My favorite is the Iron Will. It lacks nothing.

@HankBuck , the challenge we had is that my son wasn’t getting good advice. He walked into a few bow shops when he was 7 and stated he was practicing for Turkey the next spring, deer the next Fall, and bear the following summer, all before he goes on safari.

The bow shops were all quite adamant that none of this was possible. They argued with me and my kid extensively, pulling out all the KE charts explaining there is not enough energy, etc, etc.

That was what started this journey. Kid bows. The science is sound and I do shoot the same technology and high FOC myself, but I draw 70lbs at 32”, so I can literally do everything wrong with the worst arrows ever and be successful.

Except for his first hunt at 27lb draw and 21.5” for Turkey, up to his 42lb draw at about 23.5” today, he has always got a pass through. (Although he has broken arrows in two on kills)

The ethics inserts, heavy FOC, and the good cut on contact broadheads razor sharp I think are making the difference. We had better results than with the grizzly samurai or the Magnus stingers he used previously. I suspect his success is also because his arrows are so heavy that his bow is very quiet, reducing risk of jumping the string.

I use the same broadheads, but my arrows weigh 650gr because they can.

ROOKHAWK, I didn’t realize your Son was only 7 - its great that you started him that young and that he already has an interest AND Skill to want to hunt...you certainly know your stuff regarding archery equipment. Taking a turkey with a bow is an accomplishment at any age and the “patience” required to hunt “anything” for someone under 10-12 years old is impressive. Your comments about heavy arrows-quiet (and likely deep penetration) make sense....a ‘Spear’ travels slow but has tremendous kinetic energy & penetration. Hope you and you Son enjoy much success

 

[rookhawk]

An update on the Iron Will single bevel broadheads. I took one apart that was shot through an animal so I could clean and sharpen it.

Sharpening it was straightforward because the bevels could be lined up on a stone easily.

What was not so easy was the actual duration of sharpening. Boy is the steel high quality and HARD. Total time to re-sharpen a broadhead, removing some glinting that happened hitting bone: about 30 mins. Removed the burrs from the edge sides. Ran the broadhead flat across the stone for a couple minutes on both flat sides to remove any minor roll of the edge. Then to a finer stone. Then to a strop bat with 3 types of fine jeweler's rouge embedded in the leather. It's surgical sharp again, but it wasn't a quick process on this particular one.

Previous reuse didn't hit bone so I had no edge glinting to deal with. It was just a matter of cleaning the broadhead and running it over a strop for a couple of minutes in those instances.

 

[sureshot375]

Try harder if you want to break that iron will. Lol. The edge curl is so minor you could clean it up on a 1000 grit stone in about 3 mins. Very impressive.

The one question I have for you (and others) is why the love of FMJs? They dent and they rob you of FOC. Wouldn't you rather have a lighter shaft with more FOC and less risk of denting? I never could understand the benefit of an arrow that dents and robs FOC. Looking forward to your counterpoint.

The FMJs may have the potential to dent, but it’s never been a problem for me. In contrast carbon arrows get cut or nicked at a much higher rate in my experience. FMJs are more durable. I also run the 75gr brass inserts which solves the FOC issue. They are great arrows.

Tell us about your son’s bow. I’m eying upgrading my stepdaughters’ bows for Christmas.