Hornady Brass quality? What is your favorite brass for safari calibers?

Hornady is decent quality brass. On some of my prairie dog calibers I have as many as 8 reloads on hornady brass and still going. As far as consistency of weight, length etc, hornady usually has a bigger variance than normal, lapua, adg, etc
 
Hornady is pretty good IMO…

If I can get it, I prefer lapua over all others… I really like Norma as well..

But truthfully for most hunting purposes I find pretty much any big name manufacturer works fine… I’ve got tons of Winchester, Remington, and Federal brass for example and never had a problem with any of it..
 
Norma. I use it in all my reloading - luckily it's the domestic brand, so you'll always find lots of it at the range. Not in safari calibres though - people tend to save them.

When I got the 404 barrel, I also bought some new and some once(?)-fired brass and dies from the seller. That was about 8 years ago. I started using the already fired brass, thinking I would switch over the the virgin brass when the others started showing signs of wear.

Hasn't happened yet. They just seem to last long.

I also have some RWS brass, and I think I agree with @Ontario Hunter in the respect that there were a few failures to eject. I put them back in the box and went back to the used Norma brass.
 
I like RWS brass if you can find it!!! It's my favorite in 375 H&H. Otherwise Peterson and Norma. JM
I agree whole-heartedly on the RWS recommendation for longevity, but where to find.... I meticulously measure for incipient case head separation and reject anything even suspect in that regard. RWS gave far more loadings than Norma, if you can believe it.
Strangely, the only split necks I've ever encountered were with old Norma brass, but it may in all fairness have edged toward "pink-ness" indicating degradation. And the flash holes appeared to have been drilled, not punched, which saved time de-burring, so there's that.
Don't know if Lapua could make anything sub par if they tried! It's a go-to for some mighty picky people I know. (love their rimfire ammo too!)

Hornady? They are available, brass is acceptable when de-burred, necks turned for uniformity, etc. I have more confidence in their brass than in their loadings!

At the end of the day, FOR DG CARTRIDGES LIKE 375 H&H all the above is a bit moot--I am only going to fire those cartridges three times and then throw them out. (unless it is something stupid-rare) Plus, reliability in feed, and even as OH says "snap-over" trumps all.
 
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My favorite North Fork bullets are made in true diameter of caliber. Excessive friction is relieved by the grooves cut in the shank of the bullet. If there's a knock on this design it would be that it makes the bullets sensitive to consistent neck thickness.

When I first started working with the North Forks this manifested itself in the occasional flyer, about 1 in 4 shots would just be a bit off from the other 3. I saw this consistently enough in various calibers that I spoke to the guys in Oregon that owned the company at the time. They explained to me about the design of the bullet having this sensitivity and recommending either I turn brass necks (which I really didn't want to get into) or buy better brass.

I went the route of better brass which sent me in the direction of Norma and Lapua. I use those two virtually exclusively now. When I switched over those occasional flyers went away. I'd just as soon pay a bit more for that brass than to turn necks.
 
I have used/am using many different brands of cases. Hornady for me is OK. Not the best and not the worst. I have had good results with it. The worst I have ever used is RWS. It was crap. If I did not anneal it, I would get two uses before it developed neck splits. That was in 8X68 cases. Needless to say I didn't try it in any other calibres. Never had any trouble with Rem, Federal, PMU Brass. I did with some Winchester brass many years ago, never really identified the issue as I had just started to reload so could have been me. I have found Lapua, Norma, ADI make very good and consistent brass. Bertram has been good for me but apparently not others, don't know why.
 
My favorite North Fork bullets are made in true diameter of caliber. Excessive friction is relieved by the grooves cut in the shank of the bullet. If there's a knock on this design it would be that it makes the bullets sensitive to consistent neck thickness.

When I first started working with the North Forks this manifested itself in the occasional flyer, about 1 in 4 shots would just be a bit off from the other 3. I saw this consistently enough in various calibers that I spoke to the guys in Oregon that owned the company at the time. They explained to me about the design of the bullet having this sensitivity and recommending either I turn brass necks (which I really didn't want to get into) or buy better brass.

I went the route of better brass which sent me in the direction of Norma and Lapua. I use those two virtually exclusively now. When I switched over those occasional flyers went away. I'd just as soon pay a bit more for that brass than to turn necks.
What calibers are you referring to in this post @PHOENIX PHIL?
 
I like Hornady brass. I weight-sort my standard hunting, varmint, and precision rifle brass and find Hornady acceptable. When it comes to dangerous game cartridges options start to become limited as you know so purchasing can come down to what’s available. In general I have Norma and Hornady for DG Safari. The .375 H&H does open options up a bit.
 
I think brass recommendations are like restaurant recommendations--you have a good experience, recommend it and then when your friends try it, they have changed cooks and it is crap.
Brass from what era? I have a tendency to remember from back when, and while I think I am accurate in memories, it is irrelevant if the manufacturer has changed something, or even the brass drawing and forming machinery has aged until it's no longer in spec.
 
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For years my choice of brass was Winchester. This was because the brass metallurgy, temper and volume was very consistent even between cartridges. Of late I've been getting Lapua, Hornady, Starline and Nosler because they are making brass in the cartridges that I presently use. I haven't worn any out so not certain how they holdup.
 
Gents, for more strait walled cartridges, like in doubles, folks opinions on brass options still the same?

For the likes of 500NE where you can find Hornady, Norma, and Bertram, what do folks prefer and why? Any horrid experiences?

Lastly, how many firings do yall expect (or hope for) out of these traditional nitro express rounds with their lower pressures before tossing brass?
 
Nosler brass is Norma, Nosler just sorts it, preps it and then charges more for it accordingly.
Bought a case of 300wsm premium Nosler ammo with their 180gr Prt. to take on safari for a friend. The head stamp on the brass to my surprise was Norma. That was when it first came out. I worked at a gun shop after I retired and talked to the Rep. and he said that it was to be a secret. So, if you prefer to prep your own brass as I do , buy Norma and save a few bucks, if not buy Nosler.


Paul
 
Adg is making 375 ruger and 338 win mag now. I don't reload myself, I use warthog ammo out of Akron, OH for my loads and they love my adg 6.5prc brass. says it best they ever worked with.
 
I think brass recommendations are like restaurant recommendations--you have a good experience, recommend it and then when your friends try it, they have changed cooks and it is crap.
Brass from what era? I have a tendency to remember from back when, and while I think I am accurate in memories, it is irrelevant if the manufacturer has changed something, or even the brass drawing and forming machinery has aged until it's no longer in spec.
Totally agree. There was a time that federal brass was held in high regard by reloaders.
 

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