What color light for leopard?

[wildwilderness]

I’m planning to hunt a baited leopard with my bow.

I have heard a number of opinions on what color light to use- Green, Red, White? - here are some things I’ve read, heard- white light is the easiest to see the target animal, however the animals notice it the most. Red is hardest for predators to see, however contrast and picking an aiming point can be difficult. Green is sort of in between- predators see it better than red but less than white, contrast is ok for aiming



what are your experience?

 

[tygersman1]

Why compromise? Low red, getting brighter and turning to white over time. Take the shot when you're comfortable (as long as you don't wait too long).

 

[KWALATA SAFARIS]

95% of the leopard I’ve taken after sunset has been with a white light. Interesting fact though is, that throughout the various areas that I’ve guided. These ranging from areas where Leopard where hunted hard by livestock owners through to super low impact areas I have never had a Leopard jump out of a tree and flee at the point of switching on a white light.

I have had once or twice a leopard after being under white light for a considerable amount of time, (1:30 seconds to 2:00 minutes) slowly and calculably climb down from the tree, but upon switching off the light every single cat returned 15 - 30 minutes later.

Whether my experience is the norm or just my luck within my sample size of roughly 60 Leopard hunts, I would venture to say that it could be regarded as reasonably accurate.
I do have a very methodical approach when it comes to using a light on a cat and in the instance that it is required.

Once I am sure that the Tom is on the tree feeding (I use a thermal, but they are quite audible even at 65 m) I will let them feed for quite some time.
I’ll refrain from using the light up to the point where I can hear that the cat is absolutely in “beast” mode and feeding at ease.
Once again in my experience very few cats will even acknowledge the light when it is then switched on and continue feeding with virtually zero regard for the white light.

I’ve also through the years become considerably wiser with regards to light placement at and around the bait, and will often revert back to a hand held from the blind itself depending on how the bait is set up.
In some areas in the past where I had hunted, cats were picky about climbing and would prefer to feed from the ground. Light placement here would need special care as in these instances your bait is tied to the tree/limb the cat approaches and either from its haunches or standing on its back legs feeds facing upwards.
The typical dimmer switch light set up would be placed above the bait but in my experience these set up on these kind of baits would take a while for a cat to get comfortable with, as the light shines directly on the leopards face/eyes.

Compared to a cat standing on a limb and either feeding in a forward/horizontal position or looking down onto the bait tied to the limb that it is standing on with the light placed in the same position as above and possibly even slightly behind and off Centre illuminating the targeted shoulder area and avoiding a shadow cast…

I believe it is important to remember that no two cats are exactly the same but with that in mind sticking to a few basic experienced principles can save a safari and contribute vastly to success.

While some might frown on hunting a leopard with a light it is important to know that even in areas like we currently hunt and operate with extremely low off take there are times of the year when one can do a safari where a daytime cat is a distinct possibility but even in the best areas it can by no means be regarded as a given. We are quite fortunate that we are allowed to take leopard during day time or after sunset.

Time of year (temperatures) foliage (nice thick riverine and forest) hunting pressure and even history of a specific Tom all play a role in day time hunting. Find a way to put all these together and to fit your schedule… and you’ll be in the position to take a nice day time challenge!! (The ultimate in my opinion)

I absolutely love hunting Leopard and don’t mind taking them during the day or after sunset I find it an absolute privilege to track and pattern these beautiful beasts. It saddens me to admit that we are on borrowed time.
This purely due to emotional rhetoric with virtually zero foundation in science. We are losing the battle on all predators and pretty soon we will be writing stories and tales of how it use to be. It saddens me as apart from my personal loss in terms of not being able to hunt these beautiful cats that the greatest travesty of it all is the fact that Leopard and wild Lion populations will ultimately suffer the most and beautifully protected truly wild area as a further result will be lost and fall like dominoes stacked on a table. I pray every single day for some sanity to prevail and tirelessly direct efforts towards spreading the truth.
My very best always.
Jaco.

 

[MarkB]

I have no response or boots on the ground knowledge that Jaco from @KWALATA SAFARIS provided. Excellent answer and response.

For me, I have never worried about light colour. I am the visiting hunter, I leave and trust those details to the professionals, the PH beside me. On a few non leopard night hunts I did wish I was more familiar with the light mounted scope on the gun, last one had many settings and most confused me.

On leopard hunts light was always on dimmer, white low to bright. Shots were taken at lower white light when PH told me to shoot.

MB

 

[BRICKBURN]

Thankfully, Leopards are solitary critters (typically) and don't show up in herds. Thus, they don't get to notice the light came on and "Fred" disappeared.

It does not take long to train a smart animal and it will chain behavior together in short order. Many tales have been told of repeated actions by PH's to trick the cats into thinking everyone has left the blind, etc.

Best to never miss the shot and certainly don't do it twice.

The best Rheostat operator makes it appear like the sun rising slowly. As you can note, Jaco does love to Leopard hunt and is full of great advice.

 

[KWALATA SAFARIS]

Thankfully, Leopards are solitary critters (typically) and don't show up in herds. Thus, they don't get to notice the light came on and "Fred" disappeared.

It does not take long to train a smart animal and it will chain behavior together in short order. Many tales have been told of repeated actions by PH's to trick the cats into thinking everyone has left the blind, etc.

Best to never miss the shot and certainly don't do it twice.

The best Rheostat operator makes it appear like the sun rising slowly. As you can note, Jaco does love to Leopard hunt and is full of great advice.

O @BRICKBURN how could you tell?
Best Jaco!

 

[Philip Glass]

Some will leave from both red and white light. This is why many use a rheostat and turn it up slowly.
I too would like to know if other colors are effective for leopard and hyena. My recent PH said the hyena run away just as quickly from red light as white light. With predator hunting as popular as it is we have access to many filters for our spotlights.

 

[IvW]

Whenever I hunt night critters over bait I have a led truck tail light(the double one with brake light incorporated) permanently on. I prefer to place them slightly on the blind side of the bait. When I decide to sit I just add the brake light. No fart arsing around in the blind with light etc. No issues with wires from blind to bait....no baboons chowing the wires....
Never had an issue with any night critters from genet, civet, hyena, bushpigs, leopard etc...
The light is on from the time the bait is done...
I also have a small spotlight fitted to the barrel with a tiny switch on the stock of my combination for after the shot or follow up....

 

[slad68]

This is what I use.

Mount 2 of these facing away from the blind at an angle above the bait. You can mount the lights the day after you get the first hit, let the cat feed for a second night and sit on the 3rd.

The lights have 3 settings.
1.Day and Night
2. Motion
3. Dusk

Never use motion!!!!!! It doesn't work and will scare the cat away.
Only use day and night.

There is another setting, "dim and bright".
Put 1 light on dim and the other on bright.
Both lights will be on dim as long as no motion is detected, the moment anything moves, the other light will shine brighter.

There are plenty similar products on the market but I have fount these to work the best.
Make sure you have backup batteries, so that you are sure the ones you sit on are new.

Hope the info will be of some use.

 

[MarkB]

View attachment 521877

This is what I use.

Mount 2 of these facing away from the blind at an angle above the bait. You can mount the lights the day after you get the first hit, let the cat feed for a second night and sit on the 3rd.

The lights have 3 settings.
1.Day and Night
2. Motion
3. Dusk

Never use motion!!!!!! It doesn't work and will scare the cat away.
Only use day and night.

There is another setting, "dim and bright".
Put 1 light on dim and the other on bright.
Both lights will be on dim as long as no motion is detected, the moment anything moves, the other light will shine brighter.

There are plenty similar products on the market but I have fount these to work the best.
Make sure you have backup batteries, so that you are sure the ones you sit on are new.

Hope the info will be of some use.

I take note of what you use and state. Your proof of knowledge is all over AH.com. When I am ready for a SA honey badger redo I will contact you. Love your night critter pics and reports from those who you impressed.

MB

 

[Tally-Ho HUNTING SAFARIS]

we also have 2 permanent setups with red lights, small solar panel and a battery and a day night switch

we either walk in here for bushpig and jackals, and shoot off sticks, we do use thermal rifle scopes and thermal handheld
or
we have a permanent blind about 40-50 yds from the bait site
where we can sit all night if needed