Divine Intervention

[Newboomer]

If I were to be shot with a .375, I’d much rather it be with a 270 grain InterLock than a 300 grain A Frame. I’d die quicker.

Tissue damage (what actually kills the animal) will be much greater with the lighter, faster, and softer InterLock.

The A-Frame will certainly have more of a penciling effect on smaller game, like the springbok, impala, and blesbok you mentioned having on your list. I think the 300 grain Swift A Frame, while considered the pinnacle by many (and for good reason!!!), actually reaches a point of diminishing returns on a plains game hunt in the Eastern Cape.

And 270 grains of lead is more than enough for your larger game, like the gemsbok and kudu you're after.
Side note: I'd personally swap out the gemsbok for a bushbuck since you're hunting the Eastern Cape. ( my two cents you certainly did not ask for)

I'd say you're probably better off just bringing a flatter shooting deer rifle that I'm sure you already have at home. The Eastern Cape can certainly call for some cross canyon shooting.

I found African plains game to be incredibly overhyped in terms of their "toughness." No animal is immune to being double lunged. Truth!

My 2 cents: Use a 30-06 with 180gr Barnes TSX. Good for everything up to and including eland.

 

[Doug3006]

Brand new dies often have a bunch of lube from the factory. Always strip and clean them before loading. Might solve your problem.

On anything other than a eland, you Interlocks will work fine.

 

[Gomer]

If I were to be shot with a .375, I’d much rather it be with a 270 grain InterLock than a 300 grain A Frame. I’d die quicker.

Tissue damage (what actually kills the animal) will be much greater with the lighter, faster, and softer InterLock.

The A-Frame will certainly have more of a penciling effect on smaller game, like the springbok, impala, and blesbok you mentioned having on your list. I think the 300 grain Swift A Frame, while considered the pinnacle by many (and for good reason!!!), actually reaches a point of diminishing returns on a plains game hunt in the Eastern Cape.

And 270 grains of lead is more than enough for your larger game, like the gemsbok and kudu you're after.
Side note: I'd personally swap out the gemsbok for a bushbuck since you're hunting the Eastern Cape. ( my two cents you certainly did not ask for)

I'd say you're probably better off just bringing a flatter shooting deer rifle that I'm sure you already have at home. The Eastern Cape can certainly call for some cross canyon shooting.

I found African plains game to be incredibly overhyped in terms of their "toughness." No animal is immune to being double lunged. Truth!

I am taking a pre-64 M70 in 30-06 as well. My plan to take the 375 is a “just because”. I was going to use it on Wildebeest and maybe the Kudu and Gemsbok. Funny you mention Bushbuck, I was thinking of adding it to the list.

 

[dchum]

I am taking a pre-64 M70 in 30-06 as well. My plan to take the 375 is a “just because”. I was going to use it on Wildebeest and maybe the Kudu and Gemsbok. Funny you mention Bushbuck, I was thinking of adding it to the list.

Wonderful! Can’t wait to hear about it.

Who are you hunting with?

 

[Gomer]

Wonderful! Can’t wait to hear about it.

Who are you hunting with?

Hunting with Mankazana Safaris. Another forum member will be there at the same time. I’m really excited.

 

[mgstucson]

As an old man, I can tell you most problems aren't just one thing, they are often a combination of factors. As a bullet swager (I make my own jacketed bullets) I can tell you the may be some factors that might not be obvious.

1. The ends of those bullet jackets on those Interlocks are much thinner than premium bullet jacket tips.

2. If the interior shape of the bullet seater in the H&H die coincidently happens to be very similar to the shape of the Interlock bullet, that give you feel may actually be seater swaging the tip down slightly. Bullet swagers ALWAYS swage up, NEVER swage down, because the copper jacket is somewhat elastic and will try to "spring back" against a smaller die if swaged down. If you are making a bullet, your bullet will be stuck in the die so hard the ejector won't push it out (don't ask me how I know.)

A different reloading die brand will probably have a slightly different shape seater that won't cause the problem.

 

[Gomer]

As an old man, I can tell you most problems aren't just one thing, they are often a combination of factors. As a bullet swager (I make my own jacketed bullets) I can tell you the may be some factors that might not be obvious.

1. The ends of those bullet jackets on those Interlocks are much thinner than premium bullet jacket tips.

2. If the interior shape of the bullet seater in the H&H die coincidently happens to be very similar to the shape of the Interlock bullet, that give you feel may actually be seater swaging the tip down slightly. Bullet swagers ALWAYS swage up, NEVER swage down, because the copper jacket is somewhat elastic and will try to "spring back" against a smaller die if swaged down. If you are making a bullet, your bullet will be stuck in the die so hard the ejector won't push it out (don't ask me how I know.)

A different reloading die brand will probably have a slightly different shape seater that won't cause the problem.

I have a 375 Ruger set from the same company. I am going to see if they are different somehow. I didn’t have any problems with the 375 Ruger and the same bullet.

 

[mgstucson]

I have a 375 Ruger set from the same company. I am going to see if they are different somehow. I didn’t have any problems with the 375 Ruger and the same bullet.

Exchange the seating plugs between the 2, and see if the problem migrates with the plug. Other factors such as neck diameter of sizing die, neck thickness of brass, diameter of sizing plugs between the 2 different dies can effect seating force which is another variable.

 

[Nue432]

God’s probably right on this one.

Interlocks work fine on elk, but for plains game especially anything with a heavy shoulder or that might need a second shot the TTSX or A Frame is the smarter choice. You’re already seeing the seating die reject the Interlocks different ogive, and the die’s telling you they’re not playing nice.

Use the bullets that seat clean and are built for the job. Save the Interlocks for the Ruger back home.

 

[Himalaya]

Spot on, tarbe. You don't spend thousands of dollars on a trip to South Africa just to shoot cheap factory loads and risk losing a trophy. Same goes for the rifle setup. Reliability is everything.

It reminds me of when I was planning my high-altitude trekking in Nepal a few years ago. I spent months agonizing over my boots and thermal layers because I knew if my gear failed, the consequences wouldn't just be a missed buck—it would be a ruined expedition. Whether it's a premium A-Frame bullet for a kudu or a solid pair of mountaineering boots for the Himalayas, the principle is the same: don't skimp on the essentials.

Also, Gomer, good call on cleaning the bore. A dirty barrel or a loose action screw will absolutely cause flyers.

 

[BeeMaa]

@Gomer - Unfortunately I have nothing to add when it comes to reloading, but I do believe in Devine Intervention. Take the TSX or A-Frame and leave the Interlocks for practice.

I was wondering why you want to burden yourself with two rifles for a strictly PG hunt? Either one of the rifles you mentioned will get the job done without having to travel with both. Just sticking my nose where it doesn’t belong.

In all seriousness, I hope you have a wonderful and successful hunt with whichever rifle(s) you choose.