Blazer R8 issue

[Red Leg]

I have a .257 barrel among mine, and it has shot factory loads without an issue. Only "click" I ever has was at the bench when I first acquired an R8. I was babying the bolt closure.

 

[analog_peninsula]

I’ve heard about these problems, but have never experienced it personally. I also don’t reload and only shoot factory loaded ammo. (snip)

I've only had the issue with reloads, but my .300 WM barrel is intolerant of imperfect dimensions. The Wilson case gauge earlier combined with a sizing die adjustment was enough to resolve the issues I experienced, but I've learned to not swap brass with other rifles, run reloads through the Wilson gauge, etc., and generally assume that things have to be exactly right to avoid issues.

 

[Philip Glass]

Haven’t had it happen on the other four barrels.

It must be the ammo then.

 

[uplander01]

I thought the R8’s were modern marvel of engineering and fail safe and worked every time….oh boy here we go…..

 

[analog_peninsula]

I thought the R8’s were modern marvel of engineering and fail safe and worked every time….oh boy here we go…..

I own and like two R8s, but they have two design weaknesses worth understanding. They are very sensitive to case dimensions, and lack the camming power of a conventional bolt action. They also require you to close the bolt vigorously to ensure reliable operation. They are great rifles, but every design has trade offs.

 

[jbirdwell]

I don't remember who I heard it from but was told to only full length resize on reloads for the R8. I'm fairly new to reloading so take what I saw with a grain of salt but if your only resizing the neck, try a few rounds that are full length resized and see if that makes a difference.

 

[meigsbucks]

I don't remember who I heard it from but was told to only full length resize on reloads for the R8. I'm fairly new to reloading so take what I saw with a grain of salt but if your only resizing the neck, try a few rounds that are full length resized and see if that makes a difference.

I have been fully resizing. I need to measure fired cases vs resized. I had already backed up a bit. Might need to try headspace gauges.

 

[One Day...]

I believe @One Day... has a 257 weatherby barrel for his R8, and I know he knows the R8 platform exceptionally well… he may have some insight for you…

Thank you for the vote of confidence Dave I will repost here what I had posted in my more comprehensive review of the R8

Thread 'Transitioning To A Blaser R8 - A Two Months / 500 Rounds Review'

Nov 27, 2020

Transitioning to a Blaser R8 - A two months / 500 rounds review series of articles

So, the deed is done, I have purchased a Blaser R8 and 4 barrels.

This came as a shock to some friends on AH.com who know me to be a fervent advocate of the CZ 550 as the best value in the affordable DG rifle market, and as a bomb-proof rifle after a bit of debugging…

I am not recanting!

After two months and 500 rounds with the Blaser R8, I would like to share some thoughts with those who, like me, have been on the fence regarding the R8:

1. First, I want to thank AH members Red...

• One Day...

• 
• 

Understanding and avoiding the "Blaser click" on the R8

Reloads.. I’ve adjusted the die up and down in several increments. I’ve thought of trying factory ammo.

Operating word: "Reloads".

Here is what happens, in as concise a form as possible:

The R8 bolt locks when the collet (green) is expanded outward by a steel sleeve (orange) that is pushed forward by the in-line forward rotation of the bolt handle when the collet lugs line up with, and engage in the barrel recess.

THIS IS DONE IN THE LAST HALF INCH OF BOLT HANDLE FORWARD ROTATION, when the bolt head advances forward the last ~1/128th of an inch.

If the last half inch of bolt handle forward rotation is not done, the action LOOKS closed, but it is not:

If the trigger is depressed at this stage, this is the dreaded "Blaser click". The firing pin is released (just as it can be released with a turn bolt action by depressing the trigger while closing the bolt), but it is blocked by its safety block and stops short of striking the primer.

The two most classic ways for the "click" to happen are:

1) The use of reloaded ammo either not fully re-sized, or incompletely fully re-sized. The case does not penetrate completely in the chamber; the bolt head does not penetrate the last ~1/128th; the collet lugs do not line up with, and do not engage in the barrel recess; and the action does not close although it looks closed at a glance. The action is not in battery, therefore the safety block stops the firing pin.

2) Hunters loading a round in the chamber in close proximity of a game they have stalked and trying to do it ever so delicately in complete silence. Because there is a marked mechanical stage after the bolt is partially closed, before it is locked by the bolt handle rotating forward the last half inch, some new Blaser users have failed to actually close the bolt fully. The action is not in battery, therefore the safety block stops the firing pin.

The infamous "Blaser click" likely annoys reloaders, and probably cost a few R8 novices an easy shot after a successful stalk, but it is the result of operator error. This would be similar to moving the bolt forward on a classic turn-bolt action, but not turning the bolt down fully to actually engage the bolt lugs in the barrel recesses and lock the action.


Conversely, when the bolt is fully rotated forward, the action closes and is in battery (ready to fire).

Compare the picture of the bolt in battery with the picture of the bolt not in battery. Observe that the bolt handle is rotated 1/2" further forward. This is clearly visible when comparing its position to the position of the trigger.

There are two possible ways to ensure that the action is closed:

1 -- In most cases: slams the action forward after having cycled it vigorously backward to ensure full ejection and pick up of a cartridge from the magazine.
Note: this is the reason why I took out the rearward action cycling stop on the .223 Rem and .22 LR magazine inserts, so that I practice the full action cycling rearward during training and do not form incorrect physical memory that could lead to short-stroking.

2 -- When reloading silently, keep pushing the bolt forward after the first marked mechanical stage when the bolt is partially closed, until the bolt is fully closed in a second marked mechanical stage.

To the best of my comprehension of the issue, this is independent from caliber, and without knowing the specifics in meigsbucks' case, I speculate that this is related to ammo rather than barrel. It just may be that his reloaded ammo is more completely re-sized for his other calibers.

I own and like two R8s, but they have two design weaknesses worth understanding. They are very sensitive to case dimensions, and lack the camming power of a conventional bolt action. They also require you to close the bolt vigorously to ensure reliable operation. They are great rifles, but every design has trade offs.

Whether this issue results from a design shortcoming is a matter of personal perception. It is true that Blaser chambers strictly conform to SAAMI specs - which some interpret as being too tight (?), and it is true that they do not tolerate approximate case dimensions on reloads - which some interpret as faulty (?), but the other size of that coin is that close tolerances are a major contributor to accuracy.

Speaking only of personal experience, I own barrels in .22 LR (weekly backyard practice), .222 (wife's trainer), .223 (my trainer), .270 Win (wife's PG), 9.3x62 (wife's DG), .257 Wby (Mountain Game), .300 Wby (Plains Game), .375 H&H (cats) and .458 Lott (large DG) and ALL these barrel shoot sub MOA routinely. For example, no later than a week ago I was in Africa and the 9.3x62 barrel produced a 1.25" 3-shot groups at 100 yards, from the quad stick, with numerous witnesses during a casual range session with cheap PPU ammo. There is no doubt in my mind that close tolerances contribute to this type of outcome.

Regarding how to close the bolt, my own experience with the aforementioned 9 barrels, and 3 stocks/receivers (one with the steel insert; one with alloy insert, and one shortened for my wife), is that the operating word is not "vigorously" but "completely", in as much as the locking happens in the last half inch of bolt forward rotation, after a marked mechanical step that may be interpreted wrongly as the end of the rotation.

I understand why closing the bolt "vigorously" insures the full rotation of the bolt forward, bt this can also be accomplished slowly and silently, the ned goal being the same: full rotation forward of the bolt.

I thought the R8’s were modern marvel of engineering and fail safe and worked every time….oh boy here we go…..

In truth they are, but they share with their forefathers the weakness of depending on operators knowing and understanding their manual of arms

In the campfire Gin & Tonic discussions last week, I believe that I said something to the effect that the Blaser R8 is to the Mauser system, what the Glock is to the 1911. Being sober today, I still believe that this is a good analogy

The critical difference between a Mauser system bolt action and a Blaser R8 is that there is a huge visual cue when the lugs of a turn bolt are not engaged: the bolt handle is still up. Admittedly, there is only a subtle visual cue when the lugs of the R8 are not engaged: the last 1/2" of bolt rotation, but when you know and understand how the bolt works (i.e. Manual of Arms) it is just as easy to verify instinctively: the lugs are locked when the bolt stop turning forward.

I hope this was of interest.

 

[jbirdwell]

Thank you for the vote of confidence Dave I will repost here what I had posted in my more comprehensive review of the R8

Thread 'Transitioning To A Blaser R8 - A Two Months / 500 Rounds Review'

Nov 27, 2020

Transitioning to a Blaser R8 - A two months / 500 rounds review series of articles

So, the deed is done, I have purchased a Blaser R8 and 4 barrels.

This came as a shock to some friends on AH.com who know me to be a fervent advocate of the CZ 550 as the best value in the affordable DG rifle market, and as a bomb-proof rifle after a bit of debugging…

I am not recanting!

After two months and 500 rounds with the Blaser R8, I would like to share some thoughts with those who, like me, have been on the fence regarding the R8:

1. First, I want to thank AH members Red...

• One Day...

• 
• 

Understanding and avoiding the "Blaser click" on the R8



Operating word: "Reloads".

Here is what happens, in as concise a form as possible:

The R8 bolt locks when the collet (green) is expanded outward by a steel sleeve (orange) that is pushed forward by the in-line forward rotation of the bolt handle when the collet lugs line up with, and engage in the barrel recess.

THIS IS DONE IN THE LAST HALF INCH OF BOLT HANDLE FORWARD ROTATION, when the bolt head advances forward the last ~1/128th of an inch.

If the last half inch of bolt handle forward rotation is not done, the action LOOKS closed, but it is not:

If the trigger is depressed at this stage, this is the dreaded "Blaser click". The firing pin is released (just as it can be released with a turn bolt action by depressing the trigger while closing the bolt), but it is blocked by its safety block and stops short of striking the primer.

The two most classic ways for the "click" to happen are:

1) The use of reloaded ammo either not fully re-sized, or incompletely fully re-sized. The case does not penetrate completely in the chamber; the bolt head does not penetrate the last ~1/128th; the collet lugs do not line up with, and do not engage in the barrel recess; and the action does not close although it looks closed at a glance. The action is not in battery, therefore the safety block stops the firing pin.

2) Hunters loading a round in the chamber in close proximity of a game they have stalked and trying to do it ever so delicately in complete silence. Because there is a marked mechanical stage after the bolt is partially closed, before it is locked by the bolt handle rotating forward the last half inch, some new Blaser users have failed to actually close the bolt fully. The action is not in battery, therefore the safety block stops the firing pin.

The infamous "Blaser click" likely annoys reloaders, and probably cost a few R8 novices an easy shot after a successful stalk, but it is the result of operator error. This would be similar to moving the bolt forward on a classic turn-bolt action, but not turning the bolt down fully to actually engage the bolt lugs in the barrel recesses and lock the action.


Conversely, when the bolt is fully rotated forward, the action closes and is in battery (ready to fire).

Compare the picture of the bolt in battery with the picture of the bolt not in battery. Observe that the bolt handle is rotated 1/2" further forward. This is clearly visible when comparing its position to the position of the trigger.

There are two possible ways to ensure that the action is closed:

1 -- In most cases: slams the action forward after having cycled it vigorously backward to ensure full ejection and pick up of a cartridge from the magazine.
Note: this is the reason why I took out the rearward action cycling stop on the .223 Rem and .22 LR magazine inserts, so that I practice the full action cycling rearward during training and do not form incorrect physical memory that could lead to short-stroking.

2 -- When reloading silently, keep pushing the bolt forward after the first marked mechanical stage when the bolt is partially closed, until the bolt is fully closed in a second marked mechanical stage.

To the best of my comprehension of the issue, this is independent from caliber, and without knowing the specifics in meigsbucks' case, I speculate that this is related to ammo rather than barrel. It just may be that his reloaded ammo is more completely re-sized for his other calibers.




Whether this issue results from a design shortcoming is a matter of personal perception. It is true that Blaser chambers strictly conform to SAAMI specs - which some interpret as being too tight (?), and it is true that they do not tolerate approximate case dimensions on reloads - which some interpret as faulty (?), but the other size of that coin is that close tolerances are a major contributor to accuracy.

Speaking only of personal experience, I own barrels in .22 LR (weekly backyard practice), .222 (wife's trainer), .223 (my trainer), .270 Win (wife's PG), 9.3x62 (wife's DG), .257 Wby (Mountain Game), .300 Wby (Plains Game), .375 H&H (cats) and .458 Lott (large DG) and ALL these barrel shoot sub MOA routinely. For example, no later than a week ago I was in Africa and the 9.3x62 barrel produced a 1.25" 3-shot groups at 100 yards, from the quad stick, with numerous witnesses during a casual range session with cheap PPU ammo. There is no doubt in my mind that close tolerances contribute to this type of outcome.

Regarding how to close the bolt, my own experience with the aforementioned 9 barrels, and 3 stocks/receivers (one with the steel insert; one with alloy insert, and one shortened for my wife), is that the operating word is not "vigorously" but "completely", in as much as the locking happens in the last half inch of bolt forward rotation, after a marked mechanical step that may be interpreted wrongly as the end of the rotation.

I understand why closing the bolt "vigorously" insures the full rotation of the bolt forward, bt this can also be accomplished slowly and silently, the ned goal being the same: full rotation forward of the bolt.




In truth they are, but they share with their forefathers the weakness of depending on operators knowing and understanding their manual of arms

In the campfire Gin & Tonic discussions last week, I believe that I said something to the effect that the Blaser R8 is to the Mauser system, what the Glock is to the 1911. Being sober today, I still believe that this is a good analogy

The critical difference between a Mauser system bolt action and a Blaser R8 is that there is a huge visual cue when the lugs of a turn bolt are not engaged: the bolt handle is still up. Admittedly, there is only a subtle visual cue when the lugs of the R8 are not engaged: the last 1/2" of bolt rotation, but when you know and understand how the bolt works (i.e. Manual of Arms) it is just as easy to verify instinctively: the lugs are locked when the bolt stop turning forward.

I hope this was of interest.

Thank you for this great explanation and illustration.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Thought the "click" was standard issue on those things....

@spike.t
And here me thinking all blazers were a problem
Plastic fantastic Barbie guns. To avoid litigation from accidental discharge they may now be using plastic firing pins.
Ha Ha ha Ha ha
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Thank you for the vote of confidence Dave I will repost here what I had posted in my more comprehensive review of the R8

Thread 'Transitioning To A Blaser R8 - A Two Months / 500 Rounds Review'

Nov 27, 2020

Transitioning to a Blaser R8 - A two months / 500 rounds review series of articles

So, the deed is done, I have purchased a Blaser R8 and 4 barrels.

This came as a shock to some friends on AH.com who know me to be a fervent advocate of the CZ 550 as the best value in the affordable DG rifle market, and as a bomb-proof rifle after a bit of debugging…

I am not recanting!

After two months and 500 rounds with the Blaser R8, I would like to share some thoughts with those who, like me, have been on the fence regarding the R8:

1. First, I want to thank AH members Red...

• One Day...

• 
• 

Understanding and avoiding the "Blaser click" on the R8



Operating word: "Reloads".

Here is what happens, in as concise a form as possible:

The R8 bolt locks when the collet (green) is expanded outward by a steel sleeve (orange) that is pushed forward by the in-line forward rotation of the bolt handle when the collet lugs line up with, and engage in the barrel recess.

THIS IS DONE IN THE LAST HALF INCH OF BOLT HANDLE FORWARD ROTATION, when the bolt head advances forward the last ~1/128th of an inch.

If the last half inch of bolt handle forward rotation is not done, the action LOOKS closed, but it is not:

If the trigger is depressed at this stage, this is the dreaded "Blaser click". The firing pin is released (just as it can be released with a turn bolt action by depressing the trigger while closing the bolt), but it is blocked by its safety block and stops short of striking the primer.

The two most classic ways for the "click" to happen are:

1) The use of reloaded ammo either not fully re-sized, or incompletely fully re-sized. The case does not penetrate completely in the chamber; the bolt head does not penetrate the last ~1/128th; the collet lugs do not line up with, and do not engage in the barrel recess; and the action does not close although it looks closed at a glance. The action is not in battery, therefore the safety block stops the firing pin.

2) Hunters loading a round in the chamber in close proximity of a game they have stalked and trying to do it ever so delicately in complete silence. Because there is a marked mechanical stage after the bolt is partially closed, before it is locked by the bolt handle rotating forward the last half inch, some new Blaser users have failed to actually close the bolt fully. The action is not in battery, therefore the safety block stops the firing pin.

The infamous "Blaser click" likely annoys reloaders, and probably cost a few R8 novices an easy shot after a successful stalk, but it is the result of operator error. This would be similar to moving the bolt forward on a classic turn-bolt action, but not turning the bolt down fully to actually engage the bolt lugs in the barrel recesses and lock the action.


Conversely, when the bolt is fully rotated forward, the action closes and is in battery (ready to fire).

Compare the picture of the bolt in battery with the picture of the bolt not in battery. Observe that the bolt handle is rotated 1/2" further forward. This is clearly visible when comparing its position to the position of the trigger.

There are two possible ways to ensure that the action is closed:

1 -- In most cases: slams the action forward after having cycled it vigorously backward to ensure full ejection and pick up of a cartridge from the magazine.
Note: this is the reason why I took out the rearward action cycling stop on the .223 Rem and .22 LR magazine inserts, so that I practice the full action cycling rearward during training and do not form incorrect physical memory that could lead to short-stroking.

2 -- When reloading silently, keep pushing the bolt forward after the first marked mechanical stage when the bolt is partially closed, until the bolt is fully closed in a second marked mechanical stage.

To the best of my comprehension of the issue, this is independent from caliber, and without knowing the specifics in meigsbucks' case, I speculate that this is related to ammo rather than barrel. It just may be that his reloaded ammo is more completely re-sized for his other calibers.




Whether this issue results from a design shortcoming is a matter of personal perception. It is true that Blaser chambers strictly conform to SAAMI specs - which some interpret as being too tight (?), and it is true that they do not tolerate approximate case dimensions on reloads - which some interpret as faulty (?), but the other size of that coin is that close tolerances are a major contributor to accuracy.

Speaking only of personal experience, I own barrels in .22 LR (weekly backyard practice), .222 (wife's trainer), .223 (my trainer), .270 Win (wife's PG), 9.3x62 (wife's DG), .257 Wby (Mountain Game), .300 Wby (Plains Game), .375 H&H (cats) and .458 Lott (large DG) and ALL these barrel shoot sub MOA routinely. For example, no later than a week ago I was in Africa and the 9.3x62 barrel produced a 1.25" 3-shot groups at 100 yards, from the quad stick, with numerous witnesses during a casual range session with cheap PPU ammo. There is no doubt in my mind that close tolerances contribute to this type of outcome.

Regarding how to close the bolt, my own experience with the aforementioned 9 barrels, and 3 stocks/receivers (one with the steel insert; one with alloy insert, and one shortened for my wife), is that the operating word is not "vigorously" but "completely", in as much as the locking happens in the last half inch of bolt forward rotation, after a marked mechanical step that may be interpreted wrongly as the end of the rotation.

I understand why closing the bolt "vigorously" insures the full rotation of the bolt forward, bt this can also be accomplished slowly and silently, the ned goal being the same: full rotation forward of the bolt.




In truth they are, but they share with their forefathers the weakness of depending on operators knowing and understanding their manual of arms

In the campfire Gin & Tonic discussions last week, I believe that I said something to the effect that the Blaser R8 is to the Mauser system, what the Glock is to the 1911. Being sober today, I still believe that this is a good analogy

The critical difference between a Mauser system bolt action and a Blaser R8 is that there is a huge visual cue when the lugs of a turn bolt are not engaged: the bolt handle is still up. Admittedly, there is only a subtle visual cue when the lugs of the R8 are not engaged: the last 1/2" of bolt rotation, but when you know and understand how the bolt works (i.e. Manual of Arms) it is just as easy to verify instinctively: the lugs are locked when the bolt stop turning forward.

I hope this was of interest.

@One Day...
To complicated for this old black duck.
I'll stick with my old antiquated turn bolts.
That's as complicated as this old brain handles.
Lift bolt, move briskly rear ward, slam forward and turn bolt down. Pull trigger. If'n rifle just goes click it usually means I've run out of ammo.
Bob

 

[Aaron N]

@One Day...
To complicated for this old black duck.
I'll stick with my old antiquated turn bolts.
That's as complicated as this old brain handles.
Lift bolt, move briskly rear ward, slam forward and turn bolt down. Pull trigger. If'n rifle just goes click it usually means I've run out of ammo.
Bob

Pull bolt back, push bolt forward, pull trigger. Blaser saved you two steps!

 

[One Day...]

@One Day...
To complicated for this old black duck.
I'll stick with my old antiquated turn bolts.
That's as complicated as this old brain handles.
Lift bolt, move briskly rear ward, slam forward and turn bolt down. Pull trigger. If'n rifle just goes click it usually means I've run out of ammo.
Bob

Let me see if I can summarize and say it with an image you, Bob Nelson 35Whelen can relate to

Can't blame a .243 rifle for the bolt not closing on a 35 Whelen round ​

For all other AH members interested in understanding, the answer to meigsbucks' question is:

The R8 bolt does not close smoothly on cases exceeding SAAMI specs dimensions, hence the firing pin is blocked (the dreaded click), and the fact that meigsbucks' reloads generally go bang on the second attempt tells us that his reloads cases' size is only minimally off specs, and the re-sizing is completed when chambering them a second time (I will venture to guess: by pushing the shoulder back a very tiny fraction of an inch)...​

​

And for all other AH members just interested in fixing:

Slam vigorously the bolt forward, it will finish what the resizing die started ​

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Pull bolt back, push bolt forward, pull trigger. Blaser saved you two steps!

@Aaron N
But at least mine goes bang every time
Unlike the Barbie rifle.
Bob

 

[spike.t]

Let me see if I can summarize and say it with an image you, Bob Nelson 35Whelen can relate to

Can't blame a .243 rifle for the bolt not closing on a 35 Whelen round ​

For all other AH members interested in understanding, the answer to meigsbucks' question is:

The R8 bolt does not close smoothly on cases exceeding SAAMI specs dimensions, hence the firing pin is blocked (the dreaded click), and the fact that meigsbucks' reloads generally go bang on the second attempt tells us that his reloads cases' size is only minimally off specs, and the re-sizing is completed when chambering them a second time (I will venture to guess: by pushing the shoulder back a very tiny fraction of an inch)...​

​

And for all other AH members just interested in fixing:

Slam vigorously the bolt forward, it will finish what the resizing die started ​

Witnessed it how shall we say more than once on a hunt and factory ammo used....and he was experienced in using the rifle....think I mentioned it before that a puku earned the nickname "click"....for being so obliging and only decided to wander off after I think 3 clicks....and a fair bit of bolt doctoring....then 5 mins later on a sable we bumped literally just around the corner we...well me anyway was surprised when it went bang instead of "click"....think the client was both surprised and happy at same time....then couple days later a waterbuck nearly became named "click 2".....same thing.....bolt this time taken apart I think twice between the dreaded "clicks"....the waterbuck decided enough was enough and headed.....but we saw it again bit under a km down the track and the thing actually went bang this time.....client had never had this problem before and wasn't happy...maybe it was me putting mental juju on it due to me not liking them.... ...client went home and bought one or two proper bolt rifles ...photo he sent me of one was very nice looking rifle....so my juju brought him back from the dark side....

 

[One Day...]

Witnessed it how shall we say more than once on a hunt and factory ammo used....and he was experienced in using the rifle....think I mentioned it before that a puku earned the nickname "click"....for being so obliging and only decided to wander off after I think 3 clicks....and a fair bit of bolt doctoring....then 5 mins later on a sable we bumped literally just around the corner we...well me anyway was surprised when it went bang instead of "click"....think the client was both surprised and happy at same time....then couple days later a waterbuck nearly became named "click 2".....same thing.....bolt this time taken apart I think twice between the dreaded "clicks"....the waterbuck decided enough was enough and headed.....but we saw it again bit under a km down the track and the thing actually went bang this time.....client had never had this problem before and wasn't happy...maybe it was me putting mental juju on it due to me not liking them.... ...client went home and bought one or two proper bolt rifles ...photo he sent me of one was very nice looking rifle....so my juju brought him back from the dark side....

No doubt in my mind this happened Mike. Anything man-made and man-used can fail through design fault, manufacturing fault, user fault.

To take just an example at the opposite end of the R8 spectrum, and one that you can verify easily, no later than last week I was in Africa with Bobby and Dave, and Dave and his wife were shooting the outfitter's rifle.

Now this was not just any rifle, no Barbie plastic R8 miscarriage of a rifle, we are talking about a genuine BRNO with its vaunted Mauser claw extractor. The real thing, right!?

Guess what, the worshiped BRNO with its adored and glorified Mauser claw extractor failed to extract and eject virtually every time !?!?!?!?

From where I stood on the side, it looked like the extractor lacked tension. It may have been bent during misguided disassembly? And/or beveled overly enthusiastically to allow it to snap over the rim of a cartridge in the chamber? I do not know. I was not asked to look at it or fix it, therefore I did not dig into it. But there you go, the infallible Mauser extractor of the bullet-proof BRNO failing virtually every time over 20 rounds or so...

Back to your R8 experience, I have no idea what may have been wrong, but as you know there are a number of possibilities, some already discussed, some not:

• oversize cartridge (fairly common with reloads, very, very rare with factory)
• "babying the bolt closure" as Joe would say (classic with R8 novices. Remember your FAL, M14 or 1911 instructor? "Do not ride the bolt home!")
• dirty chamber / bolt assembly / lugs recess (not unheard of on safari, but the Blaser plasma nitriding and DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) metal coatings make it unlikely to have corrosion in the chamber)
• broken firing pin (never heard of one with a Blaser, but always possible with ANY rifle manufacturer)
• etc. etc.

As to experience in using a rifle, i.e. practice, I do not automatically associate it with proficiency. I think we have all seen enough folks with a lot of practice, mishandling very consistently their rifle, and there are many campfire tales about such things...



All I know from my own R8 experience is that "the click" generally indicates a bolt out of battery, generally caused by incompletely re-sized reloads and/or user failure to fully rotate forward the bolt handle, i.e. close the bolt, but anything is possible

We are going to have to check the full power of your juju on my fugly, Bobby and I were talking about going to get a couple of pukus at Takeri (by the way, congratulations, his sable is awesome ).

 

[Hunting Hitman]

I’m not sure what the problem is either it’s a bullet issue or the bolt is not all the way forward. That’s operator or component error. I have a Rigby bolt gun that won’t fire with the bolt handle up. Guess what…it’s not supposed to.

HH

 

[spike.t]

No doubt in my mind this happened Mike. Anything man-made and man-used can fail through design fault, manufacturing fault, user fault.

To take just an example at the opposite end of the R8 spectrum, and one that you can verify easily, no later than last week I was in Africa with Bobby and Dave, and Dave and his wife were shooting the outfitter's rifle.

Now this was not just any rifle, no Barbie plastic R8 miscarriage of a rifle, we are talking about a genuine BRNO with its vaunted Mauser claw extractor. The real thing, right!?

Guess what, the worshiped BRNO with its adored and glorified Mauser claw extractor failed to extract and eject virtually every time !?!?!?!?

From where I stood on the side, it looked like the extractor lacked tension. It may have been bent during misguided disassembly? And/or beveled overly enthusiastically to allow it to snap over the rim of a cartridge in the chamber? I do not know. I was not asked to look at it or fix it, therefore I did not dig into it. But there you go, the infallible Mauser extractor of the bullet-proof BRNO failing virtually every time over 20 rounds or so...

Back to your R8 experience, I have no idea what may have been wrong, but as you know there are a number of possibilities, some already discussed, some not:

• oversize cartridge (fairly common with reloads, very, very rare with factory)
• "babying the bolt closure" as Joe would say (classic with R8 novices. Remember your FAL, M14 or 1911 instructor? "Do not ride the bolt home!")
• dirty chamber / bolt assembly / lugs recess (not unheard of on safari, but the Blaser plasma nitriding and DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) metal coatings make it unlikely to have corrosion in the chamber)
• broken firing pin (never heard of one with a Blaser, but always possible with ANY rifle manufacturer)
• etc. etc.

As to experience in using a rifle, i.e. practice, I do not automatically associate it with proficiency. I think we have all seen enough folks with a lot of practice, mishandling very consistently their rifle, and there are many campfire tales about such things...



All I know from my own R8 experience is that "the click" generally indicates a bolt out of battery, generally caused by incompletely re-sized reloads and/or user failure to fully rotate forward the bolt handle, i.e. close the bolt, but anything is possible

We are going to have to check the full power of your juju on my fugly, Bobby and I were talking about going to get a couple of pukus at Takeri (by the way, congratulations, his sable is awesome ).

Probably some dutchman buggering about with the BRNO.....just saying ..and as said factory loads...he couldn't figure it ..as said he had used on hunts before and had never had an issue on hunts or just shooting it...so my "juju" obviously........be great to have you come visit with Bobby....but will cost you more than a bloody puku.........given up on dave .. @mdwest ...ps thanks on the sable.....yeah was a bit special

 

[Aaron N]

@Aaron N
But at least mine goes bang every time
Unlike the Barbie rifle.
Bob

Not if you don’t close the bolt all the way. It’s the same issue, different mechanics

 

[Red Leg]

Witnessed it how shall we say more than once on a hunt and factory ammo used....and he was experienced in using the rifle....think I mentioned it before that a puku earned the nickname "click"....for being so obliging and only decided to wander off after I think 3 clicks....and a fair bit of bolt doctoring....then 5 mins later on a sable we bumped literally just around the corner we...well me anyway was surprised when it went bang instead of "click"....think the client was both surprised and happy at same time....then couple days later a waterbuck nearly became named "click 2".....same thing.....bolt this time taken apart I think twice between the dreaded "clicks"....the waterbuck decided enough was enough and headed.....but we saw it again bit under a km down the track and the thing actually went bang this time.....client had never had this problem before and wasn't happy...maybe it was me putting mental juju on it due to me not liking them.... ...client went home and bought one or two proper bolt rifles ...photo he sent me of one was very nice looking rifle....so my juju brought him back from the dark side....

At your place he was probably hung over and shouldn't have been operating a shoelace much less a quality rifle.