Trigger pull for Dangerous Game

Ironhorse375

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For all you experienced Dangerous Game hunters what do you see as ideal trigger pull for DG rifle ?
The reason I ask is the new to me RSM 416 Rigby has a trigger with quite a bit if creep in it.
I had same issue with a ruger Hawkeye I purchased years ago in 280. and had a Timmney trigger installed and shoots great now.
I'm not looking for a 2 lb trigger as Im sure the adrenaline will be pumping on my upcoming cape buffalo hunt.
Would like to hear your thoughts here
Thanks in advance
Steve
 
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Hogpatrol

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I like two to three pounds on a hunting rifle but it must break CLEAN, no creep, no drag, just "click".
 

BRICKBURN

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What I have determined from my own behavioural training.
I have found myself looking down at a trigger or safety wondering what the hell happened when the rifle did not go off. ie. No trigger break when expected.
I now have all of my rifles set at fairly low poundage. (Just me)

I love that CZ set trigger. I would never use it on follow up. But, for a shot with plenty of time off the sticks... you bet.

I ran into a Ruger (in .243) that literally had a trigger pull weight of 13 lbs from the factory. We used a scale. I thought the rifle was broken.
It was soon adjusted to get some semblance of reality.

What ever you are used to, I'd suggest you consider that unintentional training you have performed over many years. It is all in your muscle memory.

You did change the trigger out on the other rifle for a reason. :)
 

375 Ruger Fan

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I've had gunsmiths tell me the triggers in Ruger MkII models (non adjustable trigger) can have a trigger job done on them for a lot cheaper than going the Timney trigger route. I assume the trigger in the RSM would benefit from a trigger job and doesn't require replacing. As far as the Hawkeye, they have the LC6 trigger and I've found them to be pretty crisp triggers in the 4 pound range and very little creep. I have replace the spring in the trigger with a lighter one (about $7 from http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i29.html ). This is a very easy job, simply remove the stock and the trigger spring is accessible. Remove and replace the spring and then re-install the stock. The new spring will make the trigger about a pound lighter pull.

LC6%2BTrigger%2Bgroup.jpg
 

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fourfive8

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I have no experience with Ruger triggers nor many of the after market types available so no help there. But I think having all your hunting rifles' triggers at about the same break is important. I prefer about 3-4 lb on all mine. They all have easy-to-set and extremely reliable old style Winchester triggers.
 

Ironhorse375

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458, I see your point
The rifles that I shoot the best are
375 H&H model 70. best out of box rifle I ever bought. nice crisp trigger break
then The 280 ruger with timney trigger.
Think I'll go with sage advice here and try to get the 416 to mimic my 375 h&h.
As was said before Muscle Memory.
 

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My .404 has a nice crisp timney trigger, my muasuer 9.3x62 has the two stage trigger. I need to get it changed over to a timney too.
 

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All the rifles with which I actually hunt break at approximately two pounds. Frankly, that is lighter than I usually recommend to folks who ask the question of me, but with that trigger pull, I can insure the rifle goes bang exactly when I want it to do so.
 

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Every bolt gun I have is 3 to 3 1/2lbs. My AR and Mini-14 are 4 1/2 & 4 lbs.
I would like my 243 Montana to be 2 1/2-3 because it is so light but now it is 3 1/2, so I have to hold it pretty solid.
My MRC in 375 H&H is a couple of ounces over 3 lbs and it seems to work well.
 

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For all you experienced Dangerous Game hunters what do you see as ideal trigger pull for DG rifle ?
The reason I ask is the new to me RSM 416 Rigby has a trigger with quite a bit if creep in it.
I had same issue with a ruger Hawkeye I purchased years ago in 280. and had a Timmney trigger installed and shoots great now.
I'm not looking for a 2 lb trigger as Im sure the adrenaline will be pumping on my upcoming cape buffalo hunt.
Would like to hear your thoughts here
Thanks in advance
Steve

On my 300 win mag I have a Timney trigger set at 3/4 lb. on others around1.5 lb . All adjusted by a gunsmith.
I learnt about having too light a trigger when I drooped the bolt fast on my 243. The cartridge was fired!! Back to the gunsmith!!
 

Waterbuck2008

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I'll want to be clear that trigger pull is personal preference, but generally I can get used to a bit under 2.5 lbs. to slightly under 4 lbs. on .375 and .416 cal DG rifles.
 

Ridgewalker

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On my 300 win mag I have a Timney trigger set at 3/4 lb. on others around1.5 lb . All adjusted by a gunsmith.
I learnt about having too light a trigger when I drooped the bolt fast on my 243. The cartridge was fired!! Back to the gunsmith!!
Yep Dr Ray those seem more like competition target triggers. A gun going off like that for me and I would have probably made everything a little heavier! Of course I hunt in Colorado when it’s below freezing, so a very light trigger is a world away from the heat of Australia. I tend to hunt with a tactical or shooting glove even in warmer weather especially bird hunting.
 

Dr Ray

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Yep Dr Ray those seem more like competition target triggers. A gun going off like that for me and I would have probably made everything a little heavier! Of course I hunt in Colorado when it’s below freezing, so a very light trigger is a world away from the heat of Australia. I tend to hunt with a tactical or shooting glove even in warmer weather especially bird hunting.

The 300’s trigger has a nice feel and it there is absolutely no creep or backlash.
I had my guide use it in the NT. I first of all made Vaughan dry fire! Good thing because as he brought it up to his shoulder - you guessed it - click on an empty chamber. His look was something to behold I can tell you.
I used to do competitions benchrest shooting so I like that trigger but on all of my others I had then set at around 1.5 lb.
What are your thoughts on set triggers???
 

Ridgewalker

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The 300’s trigger has a nice feel and it there is absolutely no creep or backlash.
I had my guide use it in the NT. I first of all made Vaughan dry fire! Good thing because as he brought it up to his shoulder - you guessed it - click on an empty chamber. His look was something to behold I can tell you.
I used to do competitions benchrest shooting so I like that trigger but on all of my others I had then set at around 1.5 lb.
What are your thoughts on set triggers???
Dr Ray, I have a set trigger on my CZ527 heavy Varmint and it works great for prairie dogs, but if I’m calling foxes or coyotes I use the normal pull at 3lbs.
I had a fine Merkel drilling 12x12x243 with a set trigger and rarely used it except for load testing. It surprised some coyotes while I was upland hunting a few times.
 

Royal27

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Consistency as others have said.

I like my triggers at or just under 2.5 lbs. I don't shoot a heavy trigger worth a crap as the rifle doesn't go boom when I expect it to and I then have a tendency to snatch it.

I don't like the idea of renting rifles for just this reason.
 

Bert the Turtle

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The guns that I shoot regularly have all been worked on by a gunsmith so that they are crisp with a clean break, no creep. (Except my Blaser, the only rifle I've owned that was acceptable from the factory) I've never measured the weight of the trigger pulls, but they are all similar- not too heavy, not too light. I do think similar is important.

As far as set triggers, my wife's Sako has a single set trigger and that seems to have no downside as far as I can tell, and having the light trigger available could be helpful sometimes. Not something I'd bother with on a dangerous game rifle.

One thing that I think is absolutely critical is the placement of the safety. That better be where you expect it to be without needing to think about it or trouble will find you eventually. I was out shooting a Remington 1100 that I hadn't shot in years and I couldn't get it to go bang. I'm used to a tang safety and it has a crossbolt. I took the gun apart trying to figure out what was jammed where and I finally figured out that I had the safety on. Damn thing was marked green for safe and red for shoot. I figured that green meant go as in you could go shoot something and red meant stop as in you can't make it shoot. The only thing I can figure out is the manufacturer was trying to use red to indicate danger. They must have a different understanding of what a firearm is for than I do because I'm not worried about a gun shooting: that I expect. I am worried about it NOT shooting. To me, a gun that doesn't shoot is dangerous. I wouldn't be pulling the trigger if I didn't want to shoot something.
 

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Bert, FYI my CZs all indicate fire with a red dot.
I definitely can relate to your issue with the safety location. My Rem 870 and Beretta auto both have the safety forward of the trigger guard. Never liked it there. I like a thumb operated safety.
 

Doc25

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Guess I’m in the minority and prefer a 2 stage trigger. Hell I’ll even admit to liking savage accutriggers.

I like that take up and then know I’m at the wall with light pressure it goes bang.
 
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Royal27

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Guess I’m in the minority and prefer a 2 stage trigger. Hell I’ll even admit to liking savage accutriggers.

I like that take up and then know I’m at the wall with light pressure it goes bang.

I'd argue that you're in the majority.

What I hear you saying is you like a consistent trigger. It just happens you want a consistent two stage trigger. :)
 
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