Rifle Scope Combination Problem

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Greetings! I'm off to Tanzania on a Buf hunt in August (my first trip to Africa) and ran into a little problem. I purchased a CZ 550 .416 Rigby and mounted a Trijicon AccuPoint 1-6 30mm. I love the rifle. I love the scope too. Together...not so sure. When I flip the bolt action "up", and the zoom is set on 6X,
20190321_204702 (1).jpg


I bust my thumb knuckle every time. If I put the scope on 4X, it works but I want to use the full range of the scope. If I handle the bolt delicately...tips of my fingers...that sucks for hot action buffalo hunting.

20190321_204714.jpg


I could move the scope forward, but that still dosn't give enough room, and I like the eye relief I currently have.

Two questions: 1) do you guys think new "high" rings would work? Warne has some high rings that are quick release as well. 2) does the quick release really work and keep the zero?

I'll admit my inexperience here. I have exactly no experience with quick release, and I'm a stickler for accuracy. My PH recommends quick release, so I found these Warne rings online and thought I could kill two birds with one stone. Ideas?
 

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I had a similar problem with my CZ550 and a very nice Leica scope. It has a very large ocular bell. Just not enough room past the bolt knob. = Incompatible fit. I don't think higher rings will help your situation either. A smaller ocular bell with no big knob sticking out will help. I ended up with a fixed 4x Kaps scope on mine, it fits fine. Yes, the Warne rings work as advertised.
 

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Yes the warne rings work well and keep zero. I use them on my 375 for years
But not sure higher mount is a good thing especially in a big calibre. U should be tucked into your gun low and tight especially on big calibres
Maybe a change in scope ?????
 

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Let's take a quick step backwards...

The rifle works on 1x, right? So, when you're up close and personal, say, 20 meters or less from Game, no problems, right?

At 200 meters and 6x, it's just a little slower, right? Gotta be a little more careful on the action, right?

Hot buffalo hunting is at close range and you'll want to be at 1x...

If you are so concerned...maybe rotate the scope 90 degrees counter clockwise?

I've shot 4" groups at 200 meters with a 2moa red dot on zero power (aka, 1 power). Personally, I think the scope is fine.
 

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If it works on 4X, I'd say you're good. 4X will probably be all you'll need for buff anyhow (shouldn't be shooting past 1o0 yards on buff). You DON'T want to be cranked up to 6X and then be charged by a wounded buff. You'll still have that 6X for slow fire on further out PG.

Don't mount a scope any higher than that for a DG rifle. I really think CZ should dogleg the bolt handle like Ruger does for this exact reason. You might could get a gunsmith to dogleg and re-blue your bolt handle for you - just be careful and find someone who knows what they're doing.

BTW, great rifle, great scope. Once you square it away I'm sure they'll serve you well.
 

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Yes the warne rings work well and keep zero. I use them on my 375 for years
But not sure higher mount is a good thing especially in a big calibre. U should be tucked into your gun low and tight especially on big calibres
Maybe a change in scope ?????

Bummer. I'll change the scope if necessary, but that's $1k I don't have at this late stage... Good point about keeping low and tight.
 
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If it works on 4X, I'd say you're good. 4X will probably be all you'll need for buff anyhow (shouldn't be shooting past 1o0 yards on buff). And you'll still have that 6X for slow fire on further out PG.

Don't mount a scope any higher than that for a DG rifle. I really think CZ should dogleg the bolt handle like Ruger does for this exact reason. You might could get a gunsmith to dogleg and re-blue your bolt handle for you - just be careful and find someone who knows what they're doing.

BTW, great rifle, great scope. Once you square it away I'm sure they'll serve you well.
Ya, I'm getting the feeling high mounts may create more problems than they solve. Perhaps I'll just stick it out.
 

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Not familiar with you brand of scope, but would it be possible to re-position the throw lever (the thumb-busting knob)?

I.e loosen the screw, move it 30 degeees counter-clockwise, and re-tighten it?
 

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Not familiar with you brand of scope, but would it be possible to re-position the throw lever (the thumb-busting knob)?

I.e loosen the screw, move it 30 degeees counter-clockwise, and re-tighten it?
Humm. I see three screws on the bell, not sure which one to loosen to get to the lever. That is an option I would definitely need help with!
 

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Let's take a quick step backwards...

The rifle works on 1x, right? So, when you're up close and personal, say, 20 meters or less from Game, no problems, right?

At 200 meters and 6x, it's just a little slower, right? Gotta be a little more careful on the action, right?

Hot buffalo hunting is at close range and you'll want to be at 1x...

If you are so concerned...maybe rotate the scope 90 degrees counter clockwise?

I've shot 4" groups at 200 meters with a 2moa red dot on zero power (aka, 1 power). Personally, I think the scope is fine.
Makes sense that I may never, or may seldom, need 6x. If I understand right, it's all a kind of close up affair anyway. I might stick it out and pretend I have a 1-4; the 6x a luxury... I really like the scope (I'm sold on the the battery free illuminated retical) and just can't afford a new one at this time. Not sure if rotating it will work; the window for the fiber optics should be up top.
 

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I would call Wayne at American Hunting Rifles and talk with him. You may be able to have the bolt handle bent enuff to help.
 

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If you are so concerned...maybe rotate the scope 90 degrees counter clockwise? QUOTE]

As long as your Trijicon has the dot and not the triangle, this is probably the simplest and best option. The idea isn't new, it was posted on AH previously.
 

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Humm. I see three screws on the bell, not sure which one to loosen to get to the lever. That is an option I would definitely need help with!

Please be aware that this might not be at all possible. It was just that it looked like a hole in the knob, that *looked* like it could contain a screw, which *might* allow you to move it around a bit. Don't start dismantling the scope unless you are sure that this is possible. :)

Or you could just take it to the angle-grinder :)
 

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I would call Wayne at American Hunting Rifles and talk with him. You may be able to have the bolt handle bent enuff to help.

This^

You do not want to have to think or worry about busting your hand or interfering with the bolt cycle at any magnification. You want to be able to dial up to 6x when needed without a change in muscle memory in cycling.

Straightening the bolt is a common mod and may fix your issue entirely. I think that cost alone is around the $175 mark. Certainly worth checking with Wayne.
 

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For what it is worth I attached a couple of photos of a CZ-550 .404 with a factory bolt and an AHR modified bolt. I really like the feel of the bolt handle with this mod but I do not know how much it would help with your knuckle busting problem unless the angle were changed more and then some stock removed. I have the same model Trijicon NIB that I have yet to mount on anything but this thread did get me thinking. The Trijicon power adjustment ring protrudes farther than the Swarovski Z6,Z8, or S&B Exos and has a much sharper edge.

DSC03636.jpg
DSC03637.jpg
DSC03638.jpg
 
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For what it is worth I attached a couple of photos of a CZ-550 .404 with a factory bolt and an AHR modified bolt. I really like the feel of the bolt handle with this mod but I do not know how much it would help with your knuckle busting problem unless the angle were changed more and then some stock removed. I have the same model Trijicon NIB that I have yet to mount on anything but this thread did get me thinking. The Trijicon power adjustment ring protrudes farther than the Swarovski Z6,Z8, or S&B Exos and has a much sharper edge.

View attachment 274782 View attachment 274783 View attachment 274784
Yep, the very feature that sold me is the problem. I'm sure they made the bell as small as possible; still bigger than other options. It looks like a modified bolt would solve my problems, but I wonder how much the stock would have to be modified? Since it's Aramid Composite, that might pose an interesting little problem. I'm not opposed to it, I just have not worked on that kind of material.
 

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Just talked to Wayne. Very helpful and I'm sending the bolt in to have it modified. It sounded like the turnaround would be pretty quick and I'll post again with more information.

Thanks to all for your help!
 

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Just talked to Wayne. Very helpful and I'm sending the bolt in to have it modified. It sounded like the turnaround would be pretty quick and I'll post again with more information.

I have nearly the same setup planned. Will be good to hear how it turns out!
 

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It looks like a modified bolt would solve my problems, but I wonder how much the stock would have to be modified? Since it's Aramid Composite, that might pose an interesting little problem. I'm not opposed to it, I just have not worked on that kind of material.
I'm sure Wayne already mentioned this to you, but just in case.
This is my AHR modified bolt handle and it required no modification to the stock.
 

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