annealing

[dlmac]

I have 100 new Hornady 22 hornet cases that I am fireforming to 22K-hornet. Should I anneal these first? and if so torch vs induction annealing? I watch a youtube video on a DIY induction machine. Also is a false shoulder worth the effort or just set the bullet out to the lands? Any info is appreciated. Tried to fireform some old reloads and got 100% split cases.

 

[Schüler Jumbo]

1. I anneal first.
2. I use torch. Nothing wrong with induction.
3. I set the bullet in contact with lands.

 

[Rimshot]

I have 100 new Hornady 22 hornet cases that I am fireforming to 22K-hornet. Should I anneal these first? and if so torch vs induction annealing? I watch a youtube video on a DIY induction machine. Also is a false shoulder worth the effort or just set the bullet out to the lands? Any info is appreciated. Tried to fireform some old reloads and got 100% split cases.

For the K, I would throw away the Hornady cases and get Nosler cases instead, or PPU if you can't get them. I saw Raven Rocks Precision has a good price on Nosler right now.

I shoot a lot of 22 Hornet. I've found that Hornady Hornet brass is the thinnest and most fragile of any that I've tried. Even normal 22 Hornet loads they only lasted maybe 3-4 firings before incipient head separation. I verified this by weighing the cases, and Hornady is significantly lighter, with Nosler the heaviest. PPU is almost as heavy as Nosler.

 

[Schüler Jumbo]

Lighter physical weight = thinner (within SAAMI Spec) case walls = greater case capacity. Therefore approach max loads with caution with heavier weighed brass. Keep brass assorted by weight and keep fired brass with the specific rifle.

 

[5shot]

For new brass, I would not bother to anneal. Just fire in the K Chamber and have fun.

 

[Rimshot]

Lighter physical weight = thinner (within SAAMI Spec) case walls = greater case capacity. Therefore approach max loads with caution with heavier weighed brass. Keep brass assorted by weight and keep fired brass with the specific rifle.

This is true. With the go-to Hornet powder (Hodgdon Lil'gun) however, you can't get enough powder in the case for it to be an issue unless using unusually heavy ( >55gr) bullets. Typically I load 12 gr Lil'gun with 50 gr Hornady SP bullets

 

[dlmac]

There certainly is a lot of opinions on the quality of brass? I have heard that winchester brass is the best, also heard that PPU and Priv brass has had issues with rim thickness.. I will try and get some nosler brass. But in life you use what you got and sometimes that just sucks. Thanks for the info, learning a lot here.

 

[Rimshot]

I haven't been able to get any RWS or exotic brass, but Nosler is thicker than Winchester, PPU/Prvi, certainly Hornady. Yes that means less case capacity, but nobody buys a Hornet for case capacity. I get 2700 fps with the 50gr SP, which is plenty. PPU also seems to be on the harder side, which is a plus. I think Winchester is pretty hard too, but haven't seen any in a while.

Perhaps in the K-Hornet the thinner brass will be less of an issue since the "growth" of the case is more restrained.

This is a good price and availability is spotty so if possible, I'd get some:

Nosler 22 Hornet Brass - 100 ct - Raven Rocks Precision

Brand new Nosler 22 Hornet brass for reloading 22 Hornet ammo. 100 ct bag

ravenrocksprecision.com

 

[Ray B]

False shoulder vs long seated bullet:
The shoulder will generally give a more precise case after firing because the shoulder will hold the case more firmly against the push of the firing pin than a bullet which can slide back into the neck or further imprint on the rifling. That said, the differences are miniscule.

 

[5shot]

The Hornet is rimmed…

 

[Ray B]

The Hornet is rimmed…

So?? Best accuracy and case life occurs when chamber fit of the cartridge is based on the neck-Magnum, rimless or rimmed.

 

[5shot]

Well, a K hornet has a shorter headspace than its parent ayway, so you are already crushing the case 0.004 when you close the bolt. Creating a false shoulder is a total waste of time.

 

[Javaman]

Back to the OP:

1. I always anneal virgin brass before I do anything to it. I torch with one of the $500 annealing machines but torch vs induction is personal preference and budget.
2. I use a mandrel to set the proper neck tension before loading virgin brass. I use a mandrel for setting neck tension on every subsequent reload.
3. I would never seat the bullet to the lands. I’d check max seating depth then seat no longer than max less maybe .015 or .010 for safety.

YMMV.

Good Luck.