Weatherby "re-model"

curt672

curt672

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Joined
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Location
Wa. state
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United States, Canada, AFRICA, Alaska
I think I stepped in it, wanting to do a refurbish on an old Weatherby stock. Trying to strip the epoxy finish off and it is SOOOOOOO slow , well I am half prego now--lol
 
Have you tried putting an edge on a paint scraper, or are you using thinner?
 
Using paint/epoxy stripper and a scraper , no pic , I got in a rush :LOL: I am also rounding the for end and adding a shadow stripe on the cheek Piece and new butt pad with mercury recoil reducer under it and complete glass bed on the action. Got to keep busy lol
 
curt672 said:
I think I stepped in it, wanting to do a refurbish on an old Weatherby stock. Trying to strip the epoxy finish off and it is SOOOOOOO slow , well I am half prego now--lol
Click to expand...
I had a MK V that I was hunting with in Canada for caribou that the entire finish spiderwebbed. It was around -30 F outside and when I got in the running & warm truck I put the rifle where the heater was blowing down to the floor. Within a minute the entire finish cracked like a web from the extreme temp change.

I called Weatherby and sent the rifle to a business they work with (can't remember who) and he gave me the option to have a satin finish under warranty. I was so nice when it came back!

Bottom rifle in this picture.

1793029179946.jpeg
 
curt672 said:
thinking Ill go with a couple coats of linseed oil topped with a coat or two of Tonge oil.
Click to expand...
You might want to also consider Timberluxe as an option. This thread by @rookhawk is very much worth reading over.

rookhawk

Thread 'So I've been playing with oil finishes'

For years I've had two options for oil finishes on wood, I'm really liking a third that is a shortcut.

The traditional options:

1.) The very best finish takes 6-9 months and about 20-40 hours. It's the Purdey finish. A drop a day for a week, a drop a week for 6 weeks. A drop a month for 6 months. Rubbing it down between coats, using rottenstone, etc. This is what should be done for a true best shotgun and perhaps a quarter of a million dollar double rifle. Its not practical for most people or most guns.

2.) The easy traditional route, put mineral spirits on a vintage gun, remove any...
  • Like
 
I re-did a Belgium Browning with the epoxy or plastic finish. I used a paint stripper from the hardware store. Worked well, but took several coatings to get all the crud off. I finished it to the same mirror finish, but it took 54 coats of True Oil to get the wild claro open grain filled perfectly, then 4 thin coats rubbed in then polished with rouge in a thin oil. I think that was from Brownells. I would do it quite differently today. IN between coats for the first 54, I sanded it back to wood (tops of the grain) with 1500grit wet/dry paper used dry.
It was quite beautiful, but not at all wavy, very smooth and grain appeared a foot deep.
 
FYI for those that want to work on the Weatherby, they glue the damn butt pad on -- and use screws, kind of a pain, and the glue is good ---:eek:
 
what caliber is your rifle?
 
ftrovato said:
I had a MK V that I was hunting with in Canada for caribou that the entire finish spiderwebbed. It was around -30 F outside and when I got in the running & warm truck I put the rifle where the heater was blowing down to the floor. Within a minute the entire finish cracked like a web from the extreme temp change.

I called Weatherby and sent the rifle to a business they work with (can't remember who) and he gave me the option to have a satin finish under warranty. I was so nice when it came back!

Bottom rifle in this picture.

View attachment 803027
Click to expand...

I'm sure the picture doesn't do any justice to the bottom rifle. Looking at the picture, I like the top one better. :D
 
PARA45 said:
I'm sure the picture doesn't do any justice to the bottom rifle. Looking at the picture, I like the top one better. :D
Click to expand...
The one on top (300 WM) has beautiful wood.

Honestly, I sold the 300 (top), the 257 (bottom).

I still have the 340 fiberglass in the middle. I refer to her as 'Thor's Hammer'!
 
I use Linspeed. Wipe on with finger and skip checkering till end of process. Let it dry for forty minutes then rub off with paper towel. Repeat until grain is filled. Then final coat I also apply in checkering very lightly with a soft toothbrush. I prefer satin finish so final coat is also rubbed out. If glossy finish is desirable, add three final coats without rubbing out, but that can require waiting as long as a day between coats for cure. Using this method I can easily achieve a beautiful flat satin finish in an afternoon!
PXL_20260328_200326643.MP.jpg
PXL_20261028_211620464.jpg

Both rifles were refinished. The bottom 03A3 several times.
 
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