Scope Mounts - Quick Detach System (M98 and/or Rigby .375H&H), Wanted - TY!

[Raskolnikov743]

AH Community,

Looking to see if any of you have any detachable scope mounts for M98, before I bite the bullet via retailers/distributors out there.

Thanks!


JW

 

[degoins]

If you end up having to go the retail route, the Talley rear base will not let you operate the bolt unless you grind/mill the right rear corner off.

 

[Raskolnikov743]

This is sound wisdom - thank you!

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I use quick detach Warne rings with a standard base/rail for my Czech 98 Mauser. The base is not detachable but low enough for iron sights to be unobstructed when scope is removed. I found a now discontinued Weaver one-piece base that mounts Warne low rings very low. Consequently, acquisition of either 30mm 1-4x scope or iron sights is instantaneous. Initially I mounted the scope on a semi-rail from SARRCO but this Weaver base is slightly lower. My standard action 404J and scope holds zero on remounting and in spite of sharp recoil.

 

[Raskolnikov743]

I use quick detach Warne rings with a standard base/rail for my Czech 98 Mauser. The base is not detachable but low enough for iron sights to be unobstructed when scope is removed. I found a now discontinued Weaver one-piece base that mounts Warne low rings very low. Consequently, acquisition of either 30mm 1-4x scope or iron sights is instantaneous. Initially I mounted the scope on a semi-rail from SARRCO but this Weaver base is slightly lower. My standard action 404J and scope holds zero on remounting and in spite of sharp recoil.
View attachment 683276

Excellent intel, thank you sir. Is this your 404?

 

[mdwest]

I use quick detach Warne rings with a standard base/rail for my Czech 98 Mauser. The base is not detachable but low enough for iron sights to be unobstructed when scope is removed. I found a now discontinued Weaver one-piece base that mounts Warne low rings very low. Consequently, acquisition of either 30mm 1-4x scope or iron sights is instantaneous. Initially I mounted the scope on a semi-rail from SARRCO but this Weaver base is slightly lower. My standard action 404J and scope holds zero on remounting and in spite of sharp recoil.
View attachment 683276

Same approach I took with my 416 Taylor built on an Argentine 98 Mauser.. Warne Maxima (steel) bases, topped with Warne Maxima QD rings..

I can easily see over the bases and use the irons when the scope is removed.. and the Warne bases and rings are rock solid.. they've been a good combo for me..

 

[spike.t]

Warne qd mounts on my m98 7x57... the bases I dont even notice when scope off...use the iron sights mostly anyway

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Excellent intel, thank you sir. Is this your 404?

Yes, that's it. I originally outfitted it with an old battered 3x Weaver I retired from forty years service on my derr/elk/moose/plains game Speingfield 03A3. Not enough scope relief. Thought I'd give this bargain basement Bushnell a try. Wasn't sure about thicker 30mm scope but it mounted very low on a now obscure Weaver 1-piece base. I had to slightly modify the square Warne locking braces to fit snuggly in the round slots it the Weaver base. This scope locks EXACTLY and FIRMLY in the SAME place every time it is reattached. Retaining zero is nonnegotiable.

 

[Josh P]

Talley QD bases were going to be my own choice, but I don’t want to grind off the clip hump on the rear of the action if I don’t absolutely have to.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Talley QD bases were going to be my own choice, but I don’t want to grind off the clip hump on the rear of the action if I don’t absolutely have to.

Is your rifle tapped for three or four holes to mount the base?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Warne qd mounts on my m98 7x57... the bases I dont even notice when scope off...use the iron sights mostly anyway

View attachment 683714

For the life of me I don't understand why everyone wants to put the QD ring levers on the left side of right handed rifle. Why not keep everything on the same side with bolt handle, safety, windage turret? Putting them on left side means they get snagged on clothes when rifle is slung on right shoulder. Warne levers can be positioned wherever desired so they won't be blocking the loading port if on right side.

 

[rookhawk]

For the life of me I don't understand why everyone wants to put the QD ring levers on the left side of right handed rifle. Why not keep everything on the same side with bolt handle, safety, windage turret? Putting them on left side means they get snagged on clothes when rifle is slung on right shoulder. Warne levers can be positioned wherever desired so they won't be blocking the loading port if on right side.

I hate to go on the record agreeing, but I agree.

The reason to put the levers on the right side is that you do not snag your shirt with the levers carrying the rifle in ready position across your chest when stalking.

Therefore: On a single shot rifle, its a no-brainer to put the levers on the right side.

The reason the common wisdom is to put levers on the left hand side of a bolt action is to prevent ejection issues where the brass may interfere with the levers based upon the authority or speed one might eject a spent case.

If you choose to be unconventional and put levers on the right of a bolt action gun you must test for ejection at a variety of speeds to make 100% sure the levers aren't causing interference nor denting the cases.

 

[rookhawk]

AH Community,

Looking to see if any of you have any detachable scope mounts for M98, before I bite the bullet via retailers/distributors out there.

Thanks!


JW

The quality of the Talley QD Rings with talley steel bases is about as high as you can go at a relatively affordable pricepoint. (e.g. ~$200) The warne rings and bases are inferior to the talley, but they are not unacceptably low quality.

You can also spend much more of course, but better mounts and rings than Talley get you into the $900 pricepoint for EAW pivots, $1400 for G&H side mounts, $2000 german claw mounts, and from there sky's the limit up to $5000 for Rigby, Holland, Schnapper, Smithson and other systems.

I would not be deterred by the Talley rear base needing to be machined so it does not interfere with the bolt handle. Sometimes they do, sometimes they do not, but IF it does you simply scribe the lines and take it to a grinder or bring it to a machine shop for the minimum charge. Then lightly file, stone, and polish it, then blue it. Total cost if you can't do it yourself would be <$150 by a competent gunsmith worst-case.

 

[franzfmdavis]

The quality of the Talley QD Rings with talley steel bases is about as high as you can go at a relatively affordable pricepoint. (e.g. ~$200) The warne rings and bases are inferior to the talley, but they are not unacceptably low quality.

You can also spend much more of course, but better mounts and rings than Talley get you into the $900 pricepoint for EAW pivots, $1400 for G&H side mounts, $2000 german claw mounts, and from there sky's the limit up to $5000 for Rigby, Holland, Schnapper, Smithson and other systems.

I would not be deterred by the Talley rear base needing to be machined so it does not interfere with the bolt handle. Sometimes they do, sometimes they do not, but IF it does you simply scribe the lines and take it to a grinder or bring it to a machine shop for the minimum charge. Then lightly file, stone, and polish it, then blue it. Total cost if you can't do it yourself would be <$150 by a competent gunsmith worst-case.

Warne makes a submodel for that mauser action where you do not need to grind off the corner.

I have attached an image with the model number.

 

[rookhawk]

The last time I used Talley bases on a model 98 it was a custom Dumoulin Belgian 98 action. These bases from Talley cleared the bolt perfectly. It may be worth a phone call to Talley to ask under what circumstances they will not fit properly. (likely the answer is going to be on older guns that a gunsmith arbitrarily drilled and tapped the rear bridge, maybe yes/no)

Talley Signature Steel Base for 98 Mauser Large Ring (.500" Rear Hole Spacing)

THE TALLEY GUARANTEE NOTHING IS TOUGHER THAN A TALLEY The Talley Guarantee: At Talley Manufacturing, we place our customers first. All our products carry a money back guarantee. If you are not completely satisfied, we make sure you will be. We want you to know you've just purchased the best...

www.talleymanufacturing.com

 

[spike.t]

For the life of me I don't understand why everyone wants to put the QD ring levers on the left side of right handed rifle. Why not keep everything on the same side with bolt handle, safety, windage turret? Putting them on left side means they get snagged on clothes when rifle is slung on right shoulder. Warne levers can be positioned wherever desired so they won't be blocking the loading port if on right side.

Well as I have never encountered thst issue I am not sure what you are on about...also more natural for me to hold rifle in right hand and twist qd levers with my left to remove it..same as loading a double rifle with my left hand ....also never use a sling....and regardless of how I carry rifles with qd mounts I have never snagged ..hooked the levers on my clothes or anything else....

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Well as I have never encountered thst issue I am not sure what you are on about...also more natural for me to hold rifle in right hand and twist qd levers with my left to remove it..same as loading a double rifle with my left hand ....also never use a sling....and regardless of how I carry rifles with qd mounts I have never snagged ..hooked the levers on my clothes or anything else....

I have to hold my Mauser with left hand to load it. Why would I not also hold it with my left hand to release/tighten the QD levers? I do all fine manual finger work with my right hand because ... I'm right handed. My Mauser is also better balanced holding it with left hand at floorplate vs gripping it at pistol grip with right hand. There simply is no logical reason to put the levers on the left side.

 

[Josh P]

The last time I used Talley bases on a model 98 it was a custom Dumoulin Belgian 98 action. These bases from Talley cleared the bolt perfectly. It may be worth a phone call to Talley to ask under what circumstances they will not fit properly. (likely the answer is going to be on older guns that a gunsmith arbitrarily drilled and tapped the rear bridge, maybe yes/no)

Talley Signature Steel Base for 98 Mauser Large Ring (.500" Rear Hole Spacing)

THE TALLEY GUARANTEE NOTHING IS TOUGHER THAN A TALLEY The Talley Guarantee: At Talley Manufacturing, we place our customers first. All our products carry a money back guarantee. If you are not completely satisfied, we make sure you will be. We want you to know you've just purchased the best...

www.talleymanufacturing.com

I may just have to take the hump off, but it seems a little uncivilized. The warns are alright, but they’re not as refined.

 

[Wyfox]

You don't need to remove the hump, that would be a really bad idea on a nice action. The Talley base needs the rear milled off slightly where the bolt cams over. It's a quick job for a guy with a mill, who ever you have drill and tap can complete this for you.

@Raskolnikov743 if this is going on a Rigby and you don't mind spending the money, I would contact Joe Smithson for his mounts.

 

[Josh P]

Thanks, @Wyfox