Red recoil pad for Ruger No1

rookhawk

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Silver's is the true red pad (that can be buffed to match a gloss finish stock.) Having an old stock (mocked up if changes desired) traced and (new, better wood and/or larger butt for less felt recoil) cut by CNC wood lathe is much cheaper than hand carving. Then checkering added. (MUCH less than the $1000s days.) CT Shotgun carries the full line of Silver's pads. They look the best but aren't as good at recoil absorption, so the reducer is highly recommended! IF you have a (stationary, table) belt sander or free-standing grinding wheel, some masking tape and a little patience, it's not hard to install and fit your own new pad. Here's a good opportunity to make the length of pull precisely what fits you (as the Silver's are available in many different thicknesses.) Last one I did was on a beat up old Steyr-Manlicher S/T 375 I restored for sale (using a coarse followed by fine grinding wheel) and it turned out perfectly. Good luck!


Not to be a jerk, but this isn't correct as many times as its repeated in this thread. Connecticut Shotgun does not carry Silver's pads. They make counterfeit Silver's pads. I've used them many times, they work out okay but they have had defective batches. I've had at least three with voids.

This is why there was a period in the past few years when they discounted the pads down to $15 each as closeouts but never explained "why".

Also, the black part of the CSMC / GALAZAN pads are brittle. If you are trying to bend them to a curved butt it is very difficult to do without cracking the pad.

Giving credit to a company making their own pad while calling it a Silver's Pad simultaneous with the legitimate company making authentic pads is dubious at best.

This isn't my opinion, these are the facts. Read the fine print on the CSMC website as they define and describe the Silver's pads.

Real S.W. Silvers Pads are sold in the UK by Kynamco/Kynoch.
 

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Not to be a jerk, but this isn't correct as many times as its repeated in this thread. Connecticut Shotgun does not carry Silver's pads. They make counterfeit Silver's pads. I've used them many times, they work out okay but they have had defective batches. I've had at least three with voids.

This is why there was a period in the past few years when they discounted the pads down to $15 each as closeouts but never explained "why".

Also, the black part of the CSMC / GALAZAN pads are brittle. If you are trying to bend them to a curved butt it is very difficult to do without cracking the pad.

Giving credit to a company making their own pad while calling it a Silver's Pad simultaneous with the legitimate company making authentic pads is dubious at best.

This isn't my opinion, these are the facts. Read the fine print on the CSMC website as they define and describe the Silver's pads.

Real S.W. Silvers Pads are sold in the UK by Kynamco/Kynoch.
LOL Wow-they must be imported by Jo Bi-Din & Son. Never saw that before, but I did buy some, install 'em and they worked out just fine! A cost-saving alternative to the real McCoy. You'll find Chinese knock-offs all over the world. Zzzzzzzzzz. I'd be more concerned with their food and anything mechanical. So you bought 3, eh?...What about the screws?? CS is forgiven, because they manufacture this home defense beauty (12 gauge double-barrel pump!) I hear Silver's is copying it.
1615938333810.png
 
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rookhawk

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LOL Wow-they must be imported by Jo Bi-Din & Son. Never saw that before, but I did buy some, install 'em and they worked out just fine! A cost-saving alternative to the real McCoy. You'll find Chinese knock-offs all over the world. Zzzzzzzzzz. I'd be more concerned with their food and anything mechanical. So you bought 3, eh?...What about the screws?? CS is forgiven, because they manufacture this home defense beauty (12 gauge double-barrel pump!) I hear Silver's is copying it. View attachment 393485

no, I didn’t buy three, I’ve bought about 30. I stopped buying when I found a source for real silvers after three defective pads. To their credit, they knew they had defects and replaced them at no charge, but the hour or two of grinding time to discover the defects, I ate.
 

Kevin Peacocke

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@Kevin Peacocke i may have a new and unused ruger #1 red pad in my stash. Let me check for you, if yes, I could get it to you this weekend.
Hi Rookhawk, please could I take you up on this kind offer. Next problem would be to get it to South Africa, I have an address in New York where it could be couriered to and they would forward it on. If you do have one let me know and I'll PM you. Other option is if one of the hunters is coming to Zim and I can meet up with him here - the things we do for guns!
 

Kevin Peacocke

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Kevin, Rook and I may disagree on the quality of Galazan products (I have an Inverness OU that is one of the finest shotguns that I own), but he is offering good advice with respect to a major investment in a Ruger No. 1. Whatever you do to it, and however much you spend, it will always be a Ruger No. 1. I suspect you have stocking options in South Africa that would be cheaper than the US if you can get a blank, but still it will turn into a major investment.

Another option is to find someone who knows how to put a European finish on the original Ruger stock. The Ruger No. 1B below was refinished in Germany in the late 70's. But that is the original stock (no fancy special order) - just looking far more traditional. (The young man who did it also engraved the rifle - all part of his graduation project from the gunmaking school in Ferlach, Austria.)

The point being, a good stock man can make your current Ruger look a lot more traditional for a fraction the cost of a new stock.

And yes, I should have had a Silver's pad installed all those years ago ...... ;)

View attachment 393379

Ruger No. 1 with Austrian engraving
@rookhawk and @Red Leg, i decided to take your advice and simply sarted shining up my original stock with silicone furniture spray polish. After about five sessions look at what happened - I am well pleased.

FE07F9FB-5AAE-42C3-926F-8C6D77930846.jpeg
A43EE791-2F66-44D9-8170-A9084F1C2FB5.jpeg
 
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mark-hunter

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Kevin, looks great.
Question, was the stock oiled before? Or varnished? (I mean before you applied spray polish)
 

Kevin Peacocke

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Hi Mark, just the finish it had from the factory, so I assume some sort of lacquer sealer. What has surprised me is the depth and character of the grain that has come up.
 

Viral_SIGness

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Hi Mark, just the finish it had from the factory, so I assume some sort of lacquer sealer. What has surprised me is the depth and character of the grain that has come up.
How is it to hold onto? Seems like it would be slicker than snot on a glass door knob.
 

Kevin Peacocke

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We are going hunting on Monday, I'll let you know how good my theory is, if I return with a black eye, you were right!
 

rookhawk

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We are going hunting on Monday, I'll let you know how good my theory is, if I return with a black eye, you were right!

Kevin, if its too slippery, plan B is to strip all the plastic (polyurethane) off the gun and get it down to bare wood. If you have 2-3 months to spare you can use slacum, oil, and rotten stone and get a stunning grain fill and about 3x more figure than you have now. The surface will not be slick, rather a satin finish unless you build it up with more rotten stone to a high sheen. Best part is that a real oil finish recovers from dents and dings very well, you just top off with 1-2 coats of oil every year and it gets better and better.

If you wanted, you could bUy a checkering file and chase all the checkering at the same time to have it look like perfect hand cut rather than machine cut lines.

In the end, it would look like a $3000+ custom stock with nothing more than basic supplies and time.
 

Kevin Peacocke

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Kevin, if its too slippery, plan B is to strip all the plastic (polyurethane) off the gun and get it down to bare wood. If you have 2-3 months to spare you can use slacum, oil, and rotten stone and get a stunning grain fill and about 3x more figure than you have now. The surface will not be slick, rather a satin finish unless you build it up with more rotten stone to a high sheen. Best part is that a real oil finish recovers from dents and dings very well, you just top off with 1-2 coats of oil every year and it gets better and better.

If you wanted, you could bUy a checkering file and chase all the checkering at the same time to have it look like perfect hand cut rather than machine cut lines.

In the end, it would look like a $3000+ custom stock with nothing more than basic supplies and time.
Thanks Rookhawk, i think that will make a great project. I'll fit a red recoil pad at the same time. Easy enough to make slacum oil, but no clue where to get red oil and rotten stone from. I'll try Johannesburg.
 

rookhawk

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Thanks Rookhawk, i think that will make a great project. I'll fit a red recoil pad at the same time. Easy enough to make slacum oil, but no clue where to get red oil and rotten stone from. I'll try Johannesburg.

If you dig on the web you can find the recipe for the oil finish too. It’s boiled linseed oil, plus venetian turpentine, plus a few other items. You can certainly source what you need to make a lifetime supply of this stuff in Zim. Once made up, you can probably get some of your fellow gun enthusiasts to each buy 12 ounces off of you and in the end, although you spent $50 on the supplies, you broken even by selling off the extra.

For the red color, you don’t need to buy red alkanet root if you don’t want to. You can use iron shavings tossed into vinegar, then run through a filter to remove the metal. That will give you a proper London red to the finish as well.

Google the internet for Purdey finish and you’ll find several copies of it that give you the recipes.
 

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