Practice bullets vs hunting bullets

[steve white]

More trigger time is good, end of story.

 

[coreydb]

I use the cheapest bullets I can get that have the same weight and BC as my hunting rounds.

 

[Hogpatrol]

Blems and sale bullets in my .17s and .20s for trigger time, mostly 300 to 500 meters. Just shoot silhouette steel and round gongs. Hunting rounds loaded and shot in the weeks before the hunt.
Edit: Timed Rudolph stick practice is with clay birds at different distances on berms with the 10-22.

 

[Shootist43]

Blems. and stock over-runs are my favorite practice bullets. When they are available, I buy them in bulk. For my 35 Whelen it is Speer Hot-Core for practice then Barnes TSX for a range date or two just prior to the hunt. Sight changes are quick and easy. IMHO most reloaders would tell you the same thing.

 

[mark-hunter]

There must be guys who do this instead of just shooting premium stuff all year ?

For training I shoot cheap stuff.

Difference in POI in my rifles for premium and FMJ are workable for training.

My main center fire training calibers are 308 win and 30-06. For training I shoot FMJ.
In my 30-06 difference is maybe 2 inches in POI, which I compensate by changing POA
308 win is varmint rifle, at 100 meters, almost identical POI. Also working with mil surp ammo, satisfactorily.

Next calibers I train with:
22lr, whatever cheap ammo I can find
375 H&H, on each training session few shots.
For 375 H&H chepeast ammo is PPU, soft point.

Before the hunting season, or before safari, only then I take hunting ammunition out of safe and check, and double check zero.

I dont care much about MOA accuracy on training ammo, as long as accuracy is meaningful for training. I try to keep hits within vital zone, in field positions and from stick

But I take care that I have sufficient ammo on stock for training, and for hunting.
Minimum hunting ammunition quantity for me is 120 rounds per caliber. When numbers drop below, I buy another 120 rounds, per caliber. (Check zero, re-zero, etc...)

Usual stock of training ammo, full safe 100% (I dont count)

 

[HookMeUpII]

Just match the grain, sight it in for practice. Then when you are confident, maybe send a half dozen of your hunting rounds on paper and re-sight with that load. That's what I did.

I was using Barnes TTSX 300WM 180gr to hunt and practiced with Norma 180gr.

Truth be told, once I sighted in with the TTSX, I just practiced with the Norma. The Norma were 2" high, for whatever reason, at 100 yds. I would just aim dead center and as long as I had good groups 2" high from center, I felt good. If the practice ammo is even halfway decent, it should still group. It might just group a little high/low and/or right/left. But as long as you maintain a good group, you're good.

The price difference was big at the time. TTSX was $80 a box vs. the Normal at like $55.

 

[45-70guy]

Good to hear guys, I appreciate the feedback.
I have done this in the past but I have also shot ALOT of Barnes and Northforks for confirming performance and groups out to 300 yards.
After extensive use 100’s of rounds in multiple rifles I do keep a supple supply of loaded ammo for each rifle and then a supply of non loaded components for that setup if I want to test something else or tinker in the winter.

I loaded up a batch of 225g sierras and cfe223 same as my hunting load, cleaned the bore till patches were white and the first 3 shots were .75” at 100.
It amazes me how someone even like myself can even get something to shoot like that, those bullets being all I need even to hunt a moose here but not so much recommended In Africa

 

[wesheltonj]

I used some cheap PPU ammo to "check the scope" when in Africa as not waste my Oryx or Woodleigh ammo. The point of impact will be close enough for hunting.

 

[One Day...]

I’ve done the smaller caliber thing but at this point now the only thing my suppressed 22 is gaining me is speed. 308 seems to be the happy medium to control recoil and stay on target.
22 is like cheating at this point

It all depends what your shooting goals are. I strive to maintain consistently <2 MOA, standing, off the sticks in hunting conditions at any (reasonable) distance with any caliber.

Try a 2" steel 'plate' at 100 yards, standing, off the sticks. I promise you that .22 LR still has plenty to teach or refresh, and what you learn or maintain, proper shooting form, is applicable to any caliber.

1 MOA .22 LR group in 2" steel 'plate" at 100 yards, standing, off the sticks

Yes, recoil control, or more specifically the ability to control recoil consistently from shot to shot, is critical, but a lot of things happen before recoil: proper stance on sticks, breathing control, trigger control, etc.

I also use .223 out to 300 yards, walking back & forth from 50 yards to 300 yards, to integrate bullet drop in the shooting equation.

Staying consistently in a 6" steel plate at 300 yards, standing, off the stick is solid field-conditions 2 MOA shooting. Easier said than done. Pays incredible dividends by the time Safari time comes.

One critical point that is often overlooked, and that argues for reduced loads and cheap bullets, is to practice with the actual rifle that will be used on the hunt. To me, this is one the unsung advantages of the Blaser R8. By the time I Bolt in Africa the .458 Lott, .375 H&H, .300 Wby or .257 Wby barrel, I already have on that specific rifle a few thousand rounds over the previous few months. And it shows...

 

[Flbt]

I don’t reload so most of my rifle practice is with hunting rds.
The exception would be 223 I use fmj
But I do a lot of handgun shoot and yes I run fmj the same weight of the hp ammo I use.
Or lead round nose for the revolvers

 

[mgstucson]

I cheat, I make my own jacketed bullets.

 

[Ray B]

I make my own jacketed bullets.

When a friend of mine passed his widow sold a bunch of his reloading stuff to me and it included some jacketed bullets he made, some jackets and a bunch of "stuff" that was somehow used to make the bullets. There were no instructions and looking at the stuff I see no obvious uses. Where could I look to determine what I have, how it is used and what else I need to make some jacketed bullets?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I typically shoot enough to get zeroed and put the rifle away. I will shoot the same medium grade reloaded bullets at the range and when hunting deer in Montana. I usually upgrade to factory Partition ammo when headed to Africa. Of course, I recheck zero but never seems to be a big difference. Don't shoot Partitions here because they are expensive and messy at close range. The way I hunt deer usually is close range = increased splatter factor with Partitions. Over there the major concern is bang-flop. Over here it's about not wasting meat.

 

[mgstucson]

When a friend of mine passed his widow sold a bunch of his reloading stuff to me and it included some jacketed bullets he made, some jackets and a bunch of "stuff" that was somehow used to make the bullets. There were no instructions and looking at the stuff I see no obvious uses. Where could I look to determine what I have, how it is used and what else I need to make some jacketed bullets?

If you can pm me pictures of what you have, I can sort it for you. I not only make my own bullets, but I collect bullet swaging equipment from known makers. From the pictures I can probably tell you exactly what you have, how it is used, and what you need to make it work, and where to get it. I am happy to help if I can.

 

[farmer_john]

I cheat, I make my own jacketed bullets.

Thats cool care to share how you do it

 

[deewayne2003]

Heck, I buy "pratice" bullets in bulk and shoot them by the dozens without worrying about what little they cost.

View attachment 751915

Amen to that!…This is exactly what Midwayusa factory seconds and over run bullets are for.

While my .375 was at the smith I ordered hundreds of the Midway 270gr soft points, found an 8lbs jug of Accurate2700 I’ve had laying around for years and even with ridiculous primer cost I’m loading .375H&H for under $20 a box.

I’ve been hunting deer and pigs with them ever since.

 

[Ray B]

If you can pm me pictures of what you have, I can sort it for you.

Attached is a photo of the stuff I got from my friend. If detailed photos of specific items, let me know & I'll add more photos.

 

[mgstucson]

Thats cool care to share how you do it

Sure. Corbins manufactures bullet swaging presses and dies. Others like CH4D, Herters, RCBS, RCE, BSS and Hollywood Gun Shop have made bullet swaging presses and dies down through the years, but Corbins is about the last one standing, BSS and RCE owners have just retired in the last year or so. Corbins web site is just Corbins.com. There are a few makers that have made bullet swaging dies to fit heavy reloading presses like the Rock Chucker. These type reloading press arrangements are popular with the benchrest shooters who make their own bullets because they do very well with small caliber bullets. I know Corbins and RCE presses and dies are used by the US Dept. of Defense for making experimental prototype ammo, and special purpose, special ops ammo.

Generally to make a good bullet in a particular point form (i.e. spitzer, round nose, or flat tip) you need a 3 die swage set. This one set will make all weight bullets in that caliber and with that point form. This same set will make lead bullets, half-jacket bullets, FMJ, hollow points, soft points, open tips, metal tips, plastic ballistic tips, etc. For additional point forms, you just have to add 1 additional die per point form to the set. You can make cup and core, bonded core, and partition bullets. You can even make exotics like jackets filled with lead shot that will basically disintegrate on hard targets to reduce danger wall penetration or ricochet off pavement in self-defense urban environments. You can make a similar exotic bullet with tungsten powder core. Tungsten is heavier that lead by volume.

For jackets, you can buy commercial jackets made from gilding metal (90 -95 percent copper/5-10 percent zinc) from commercial makers like Sierra, Hines, J4, or Corbins. You can also use fired cartridge cases for jackets, which is a VERY inexpensive and great option for practice bullets and premium hunting bullets. You can also use commonly available rigid copper tubing to create bullet jackets. Commercial jackets and cartridge case usually start with a jacket thickness about .015 at mouth and get progressively thicker toward base of bullet. Although you can sometimes special order thicker jackets. Copper tubing used for jackets is commonly available in .025 - .035 wall thickness, and thickness is usually consistent base to tip, although you can bevel the jacket to have a tapering thickness like a commercial jack.

Here is a video from Corbins making a very nice Metal Tip Rebated Boattail bullet on .308 caliber.

Corbins Bullet Swaging Video

Here are some pictures of bullets I make.

358 caliber bullets

375 caliber bullets

416 caliber bullets

 

[45-70guy]

Sure. Corbins manufactures bullet swaging presses and dies. Others like CH4D, Herters, RCBS, RCE, BSS and Hollywood Gun Shop have made bullet swaging presses and dies down through the years, but Corbins is about the last one standing, BSS and RCE owners have just retired in the last year or so. Corbins web site is just Corbins.com. There are a few makers that have made bullet swaging dies to fit heavy reloading presses like the Rock Chucker. These type reloading press arrangements are popular with the benchrest shooters who make their own bullets because they do very well with small caliber bullets. I know Corbins and RCE presses and dies are used by the US Dept. of Defense for making experimental prototype ammo, and special purpose, special ops ammo.

Generally to make a good bullet in a particular point form (i.e. spitzer, round nose, or flat tip) you need a 3 die swage set. This one set will make all weight bullets in that caliber and with that point form. This same set will make lead bullets, half-jacket bullets, FMJ, hollow points, soft points, open tips, metal tips, plastic ballistic tips, etc. For additional point forms, you just have to add 1 additional die per point form to the set. You can make cup and core, bonded core, and partition bullets. You can even make exotics like jackets filled with lead shot that will basically disintegrate on hard targets to reduce danger wall penetration or ricochet off pavement in self-defense urban environments. You can make a similar exotic bullet with tungsten powder core. Tungsten is heavier that lead by volume.

For jackets, you can buy commercial jackets made from gilding metal (90 -95 percent copper/5-10 percent zinc) from commercial makers like Sierra, Hines, J4, or Corbins. You can also use fired cartridge cases for jackets, which is a VERY inexpensive and great option for practice bullets and premium hunting bullets. You can also use commonly available rigid copper tubing to create bullet jackets. Commercial jackets and cartridge case usually start with a jacket thickness about .015 at mouth and get progressively thicker toward base of bullet. Although you can sometimes special order thicker jackets. Copper tubing used for jackets is commonly available in .025 - .035 wall thickness, and thickness is usually consistent base to tip, although you can bevel the jacket to have a tapering thickness like a commercial jack.

Here is a video from Corbins making a very nice Metal Tip Rebated Boattail bullet on .308 caliber.

Corbins Bullet Swaging Video

Here are some pictures of bullets I make.

358 caliber bullets
View attachment 757373View attachment 757374
View attachment 757375



375 caliber bullets
View attachment 757378
View attachment 757379
View attachment 757380


416 caliber bullets
View attachment 757381
View attachment 757383
View attachment 757384
View attachment 757385

Now that’s awesome, I’m going to look into this

 

[Slickshooter]

For my dangerous game rifles I shoot inexpensive projectiles of similar weight (if I can find them) and save the premium hard to get stuff like Woodleigh, North Fork and AFrames for hunting. Being from Canada components are very limited especially the good stuff. Cheers