Needing Some Scope Mounting Advice

30winmag

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Your scope has 80 inches of elevation adjustment, which is quite a bit; my guess is that something is wrong with your ring/base setup. Also, the Zeiss is a fantastic optic, but it's a very long scope with a huge 50mm objective. That combination is requiring you to have to mount the scope too high in order to clear the rear sight. I can't imagine you're getting a great cheek weld with high rings on that rifle. I have the exact same rifle and wouldn't be able to get a decent weld with high rings. I'd recommend you put that awesome scope on a different rifle and get something shorter and with a smaller objective to allow lower mounting on your .375. Then ditch the Weaver rings and get some low Warnes, Talleys, or Leupold QRs., using the corresponding bases for those rings. I've probably mounted 150 scopes and never had a need for windage adjustment in the rings. I would think that, if you need windage adjustment in your rings, you have an issue with the rifle that has nothing to do with the scope.

The Leupold VX-6 1-6x is a great scope, and in my opinion, 6x is plenty of magnification for anything a .375 can do (I have one mounted in low 30mm Warne QD rings on my M70 .375 Safari Express and it works perfectly). Think of it this way: 6x @ 300 yards is the same as 1x at 50 yards, which is no problem on any big game animal. It also has more than twice the field of view that your Zeiss at low power, which could come in very handy on the kind of critters that .375s are often pointed at. Many other scopes would obviously work as well. Just my .02...good luck!
Thanks for the advice shuter. Out of curiosity want to by an $800 scope?
 

Royal27

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Thanks vinny. This may be pushing my skill level but I'll keep it in mind.

Not nearly as hard as it sounds. If you can turn a screwdriver you can do it.

With the recommendations I'm getting I may need to stop by Brownells after this. Thanks for the help Royal.

You're welcome! :)
 

30winmag

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Lots of great advise so far. Let me add a few things: Before you start changing out rings, base, scope, etc, go thru your mounting procedure again. You didn't mention if you bore sighted the scope. This is quick and easy with a bolt action. I mount all my scopes and can recall only once having an issue like you described. I ended up having to shim the rear ring with two layers of black electrical tape on a Browning BAR with a Leupold scope and rings.

Suggest you try the following, it's easy and you don't need to buy anything. If it doesn't work, then change out rings, etc.

1. Since the elevation is currently maxed out, crank your elevation cross hair all the way down and count the turns or clicks.

2. Bring the elevation cross hair back up half way. This will put the elevation cross hair in the exact middle of the adjustment range, which is a good starting point.

3. Do the same thing with the windage. The cross hairs are now in theory centered in the scopes adjustment range.

4. Remove the bolt from the rifle and lossen the rings on the scope.

5. Place the rifle on sand bags just like you would for a shooting session, where the rifle can be safely pointed at a distant wall or door. I normally do this in my house and point the rifle down a hallway. The longer the distance, the better, with 20 to 30 ft being workable

6. Plumb bob the rifle to be straight up and down. I hold a Tipton cleaning rod by the tip and use the weighted handle as the plumb bob. Hold the rod near the recoil pad on the stock and adjust the rifle to be sure it's straight up and down. After each step, re-check the plumb.

7. Look thru the barrel and see where it is pointing to on the far wall or doorway. I like to get the barrel pointed at a straight vertical line, like the edge of a door. You can put a piece tape or an orange sticky dot from a target to mark the spot the barrel is pointing at. Alternatively, you can tape a target or piece of paper with a vertical line on the wall and use a level to true up the vertical line. I'll use a laser pointer to shine down the barrel and see the laser dot on the far wall. Have a helper mark the spot where the laser dot is.

8. Now look thru the scope. Get the vertical cross hair lined up with the vertical line on the wall. Recheck the plum of the rifle.

9. Slide the scope forward and backwards to adjust the point of aim for the scope to attempt to match it to the barrels point of aim.

10. If you can get it close, snug up the rings and be sure to rechck the plumb or the rifle and the vertical cross hair on the wall.

11. Mount the gun and check your eye relief. Is it okay? Try closing your eyes, mount the gun to where it feels right and then open your eyes. Can you see thru the scope? Did you have to adjust your head much or to where it doesn't feel natural?

I've used this method on several rifles and will always be within a couple of inches of where I want to zero my scope. Good bore sighting saves time and ammo on the range.

Thanks for the field expedient check Ruger fan. I'm going to start checking with all the stuff that the failable biological portion of this process could screw up before I start blaming equipment. So I'll start over and see if I can get a different result. Thanks for the advice!
 

30winmag

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This is not a good solution, but in the past I have used a small section out of a Coke can to shim a scope on a 22 it has held up, but I wouldn't bet my life on it facing a buff
LOL thriller! I'm going to remember that fix for when I need to use it and have a beer can and a leatherman. My hunt is 5 months out so I have time to work out a solution. Of course all it is going to take is time and money. Oh, and no buff this time around.
 

Royal27

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Scott Slough

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Before you do anything.....get a Wheeler scope mounting kit from Brownells. You HAVE to lap your scope rings
{...much like grinding valves for your heads (in your V8)}. This makes sure your scope aligns "true". Until your scope rings are aligned with your barrel, no adjustment will be 100%.

Not sure I HAVE TO as I have installed scopes on close to 10 rifles using a method similar to 375Ruger with exactly ZERO problems. At least half of those were probably installed before Wheeler even sold scope mounting kits. Also to be fair, I would never grind the valves for my heads in a V8 either :)!
 

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Not sure I HAVE TO as I have installed scopes on close to 10 rifles using a method similar to 375Ruger with exactly ZERO problems. At least half of those were probably installed before Wheeler even sold scope mounting kits. Also to be fair, I would never grind the valves for my heads in a V8 either :)!
I'm not a bench rester, but most if not all lap their rings; they like to address any possible variables so they know that if they are off, it is the shooter not the equipment.
 

30winmag

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Not sure I HAVE TO as I have installed scopes on close to 10 rifles using a method similar to 375Ruger with exactly ZERO problems. At least half of those were probably installed before Wheeler even sold scope mounting kits. Also to be fair, I would never grind the valves for my heads in a V8 either :)!
Good point Scott, I'm going to try to exhaust all other options before I start grinding on things. Thanks for the input!
 

30winmag

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I'm not a bench rester, but most if not all lap their rings; they like to address any possible variables so they know that if they are off, it is the shooter not the equipment.
Another good point vinny. Of course at this point I'm going to start over and see if I managed to attach something wrong.
 

Royal27

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Good point Scott, I'm going to try to exhaust all other options before I start grinding on things. Thanks for the input!

Watch the video.

The wheeler kit uses a two piece "scope tube" where each piece comes to a point. That's now you "measure." If the tips meet in the middle - rings are aligned. If they don't meet - rings aren't aligned. Then, and only then, you grind using another piece included in the kit and grinding compound.

The scope I just mounted was perfectly aligned, and needed nothing. Great peace of mind though if nothing else. And like a lot of rifle adjustments, probably much more important for 1000 yard benchrest than 100 yards off sticks.
 

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I know exactly how the kit works ... I do not have the attention span to fix something that ain't broke :)!
 

30winmag

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Watch the video.

The wheeler kit uses a two piece "scope tube" where each piece comes to a point. That's now you "measure." If the tips meet in the middle - rings are aligned. If they don't meet - rings aren't aligned. Then, and only then, you grind using another piece included in the kit and grinding compound.

The scope I just mounted was perfectly aligned, and needed nothing. Great peace of mind though if nothing else. And like a lot of rifle adjustments, probably much more important for 1000 yard benchrest than 100 yards off sticks.

Thanks for the heads up Royal. I actually work with several benchrest shooters, I may have to ask if I can borrow from them!
 

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had exactly your same problem on a win 70 supergrade with a leupold it it turned out to be a gun issue not rings or scope took it to a very good gunsmith and he just shimmed the back base done deal. that was many years ago and nary a problem since. way easy fix. and i agree with what someone else said I wouldnt use weaver rings with that scope on a 375 nor burris rings either both POS not befitting such a nice scope! warne, talley, leupold and some of the custom ring and base guys all good. 375 will recoil hard and stress a big scope and the rings and mounts and you want good ones when facing down a buff.
 

Rob404

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A very interesting idea Rob, I am going to have to keep that on my list of fixes. Thanks for the advice.
had exactly your same problem on a win 70 supergrade with a leupold it it turned out to be a gun issue not rings or scope took it to a very good gunsmith and he just shimmed the back base done deal. that was many years ago and nary a problem since. way easy fix. and i agree with what someone else said I wouldnt use weaver rings with that scope on a 375 nor burris rings either both POS not befitting such a nice scope! warne, talley, leupold and some of the custom ring and base guys all good. 375 will recoil hard and stress a big scope and the rings and mounts and you want good ones when facing down a buff.
Burris and Weaver rings are POS thanks for the info
 

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I don't know of Burris rings being a POS. I have a set of them that I had to purchase for a Thompson Center Contender pistol in 7-30 Waters caliber when a screw broke on my other mount for it. They have worked quite fine for the last 12 or so years on that pistol and anyone that shoots a rifle round in a pistol knows the recoil can be quite abrupt and violent. Perhaps if the fail in the future I'll go back to the mono mount that I had on before since I had to drill the screw out of it and re-thread the screw holes for larger screws.

As for the Weavers, years ago they were one of the best mounting systems out there. Perhaps their quality has gone downhill since that time.

All of my rifles have Leupold rings and bases on them except for my Rugers.
 

Rob404

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I don't know of Burris rings being a POS. I have a set of them that I had to purchase for a Thompson Center Contender pistol in 7-30 Waters caliber when a screw broke on my other mount for it. They have worked quite fine for the last 12 or so years on that pistol and anyone that shoots a rifle round in a pistol knows the recoil can be quite abrupt and violent. Perhaps if the fail in the future I'll go back to the mono mount that I had on before since I had to drill the screw out of it and re-thread the screw holes for larger screws.

As for the Weavers, years ago they were one of the best mounting systems out there. Perhaps their quality has gone downhill since that time.

All of my rifles have Leupold rings and bases on them except for my Rugers.
I was just quoting another member,,I have Leupold, Burris,Weaver, Talley Alaska Arms etc on My rifles and even with my heaviest recoil rifles I have never had a Failure, I even use bases by the same Mfgs
 

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Thanks for the advice shuter. Out of curiosity want to by an $800 scope?
No thanks:) But I can assure you I've done the same many times myself, when it became obvious that a different scope would be a much better fit for a particular rifle. The good news is, when you buy that next .270 or whatever, you will already have a fantastic optic that's a perfect match for it! See, I can rationalize anything.
 

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, I can rationalize anything.

Said it here before, but this is how I ended up with my .458 Lott. I had the scope so had to get the rifle. :)
 

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