FN Mauser project

[NTX]

I’ve had this project in the back of my mind for a while now, so let me consult the fine brain-trust that is the AH forum. So here it is:

I have an FN commercial Mauser currently chambered in 7mm rem, so magnum bolt face. The rifle has very plain wood, and an old, tired lacquer finish that is cracked and yellowed. The checkering is hand cut, not pressed, and appears to be above 90% condition. The inletting on the inside is a little rough, but overall the metal and wood mate nicely on the outside. The stock has the typical FN plastic plate in lieu of a recoil pad. My current thoughts are to refinish the stock, add a pad, and possibly an ebony tip to match the black grip cap. I’d like to take this rifle, after rebuilding, on my next plains game hunt. I’m a fan of the .338 win mag, and the ballistics are favorable if I want to stretch a shot a little bit further (I’m not a fan of “long range” hunting per se, but I’m a SWAT sniper and 500yds is a routine chip-shot with appropriate gear). I like the idea of being able to make an ethical shot at extended ranges, if need be.
I have also considered .375 Ruger, .358 Norma, and 9.3x64 (impractical/idealistic). Whichever chambering I choose will be fed by hand loads.
I will also be changing to a Winchester style 3-position safety.
What are your opinions AH?

 

[Wheels]

I love the FN. The old butt plate is classic.

Your rifle appears to be from the transition period. This FN has gone from the Mauser safety to the Browning safety but is still using the Mauser bolt release and not the Browning.

The 7mm Rem is flat shooting at distance. Personally I prefer keeping the caliber, butt plate, stock (no ebony fore end) That of course messes with being able to do a project. You have a great base to do what you want with the rifle. Not sure how an 8x68s would work in that action but it is a classic caliber for a Mauser action and gets you similar ballistics to the 338 if you want something a little more unique. The 318WR would be in that same category as well.

All the best.

 

[Anthony George]

338 Campfire ( 338-375 Ruger ) would be a cracker in that action

I'd definitely put some dummy rounds in the action and test cycle them to see what you have

 

[NTX]

I love the FN. The old butt plate is classic.

Your rifle appears to be from the transition period. This FN has gone from the Mauser safety to the Browning safety but is still using the Mauser bolt release and not the Browning.

The 7mm Rem is flat shooting at distance. Personally I prefer keeping the caliber, butt plate, stock (no ebony fore end) That of course messes with being able to do a project. You have a great base to do what you want with the rifle. Not sure how an 8x68s would work in that action but it is a classic caliber for a Mauser action and gets you similar ballistics as the 338 if you want something a little more unique.

All the best.

I certainly wrestled with the thought of “corrupting” a classic rifle, but I think my plans will be a nice blend of classic FN with some modern finishes. As for the 7 mag- I have a model 70 in 7 mag that this one just won’t ever compete with. That made the decision much easier.

 

[NTX]

338 Campfire ( 338-375 Ruger ) would be a cracker in that action

I'd definitely put some dummy rounds in the action and test cycle them to see what you have

Interesting thought. I took some .300 rcm rounds and stacked them in the action to see how they would work, and the .375 Ruger case seems perfectly feasible. Given the .300 rcm is shorter, but it’s close enough as it’s just a shortened .375.

 

[rdog]

Keep it simple 338 win no bolt face work, no mag work, refinish stock & fit recoil pad just my opinion.

 

[HWL]

This is a collectors item, do not change anything.

7mm Reminton Magnum is capable to kill every plains game you will encounter in your life.

HWL

 

[TroyF]

Leave it, with the position of the sling stud and checkering adding a tip won't look right. Using a 3 potions you will have to look at the ugly whole in the stock, and hwl said it's a nice classic and 7rm will do a lot. Not to much room in that bottom either, case may not like feeding with a shoulder longer then the 7 mag.

 

[geoff rath]

The basis for a delicious rebuild; at the most, a clean-up/refinsh of the stock with a good oil finish. Caliber-wise,eitherstayon7RM, or go 338 Win Mag. I'd call it a modern classic, one that could become a family heirloom in the future. If you rebarrel it, fit a barrel-band sling swivel and front sight with a barrel band.

 

[Scrumbag]

I have a 257 Roberts on an FN Commercial. Love it.

Scrummy

 

[HWL]

I have a 257 Roberts on an FN Commercial. Love it.

Scrummy

Me too !!!

Thought, there is only one on the planet...

HWL

 

[Scrumbag]

Me too !!!

Thought, there is only one on the planet...

HWL

I rebarrelled a 7x57

 

[NTX]

Here is a quick progress update. The stock is stripped and ready for pad install. I’ve got a little more work recutting some checkering but that’s more of a personal OCD touch. The pad will be a pachmayr old English red in 1” thickness. Stock will be cut 3/4” to accommodate the pad length difference. I have a 3-position safety awaiting install by someone more qualified than myself. I mocked it up for the photo. When the pad is done I’ll finish out the stock with a custom tru-oil blend hand rubbed finish. I pulled some cheap rings and an old vari-x out of the closet to see how she shoots (haven’t got there yet). The bore and throat were in better shape than I initially thought so I’ll see how this one prints before I make any chamber decisions. I’m currently leaning towards having it rebored to .338 win by JES. The bolt handle is likely going to be replaced by an oberndorf style of some kind as well. I have one on the bench already, so I’ll see what the smith thinks when the safety is installed.

 

[rookhawk]

The wood isn’t that bad actually. If you put an ebony or horn forend tip and grip cap on the gun and took your time with slacum and rotten stone for the grain fill and a big of red pigment the stock would vastly improve. The safety was a huge improvement, good job on that one.

As for shooting, I realize you’re trained for 500 yard shots but practically speaking, you probably don’t need the range in Africa. Where I’ve been on 10 safaris I’ve had one shot of 345 yards which I took with a 375HH, another 30 or so shots at 200-225 yards, and then all the remainder were inside of 75 yards. I’ve passed on DG shots at 12 yards because I couldn’t tell if I was looking at a head or an ass of the animal…it gets thick in the jess.

If it were me, I’d sacrifice range (because I believe its irrelevant) for more stopping power. 9.3x64, 375HH, 8x68, 404, etc. Not sure what will fit on your action or bolt face though so that is an important consideration.

 

[NTX]

The wood isn’t that bad actually. If you put an ebony or horn forend tip and grip cap on the gun and took your time with slacum and rotten stone for the grain fill and a big of red pigment the stock would vastly improve. The safety was a huge improvement, good job on that one.

As for shooting, I realize you’re trained for 500 yard shots but practically speaking, you probably don’t need the range in Africa. Where I’ve been on 10 safaris I’ve had one shot of 345 yards which I took with a 375HH, another 30 or so shots at 200-225 yards, and then all the remainder were inside of 75 yards. I’ve passed on DG shots at 12 yards because I couldn’t tell if I was looking at a head or an ass of the animal…it gets thick in the jess.

If it were me, I’d sacrifice range (because I believe its irrelevant) for more stopping power. 9.3x64, 375HH, 8x68, 404, etc. Not sure what will fit on your action or bolt face though so that is an important consideration.

I actually have a 9.3x64 barrel on standby, but I’m still trying to work out the extractor feasibility as the case head is a tad smaller than the standard belted mag bolt face. My only plains game hunting experience is in Namibia (I’ll likely be back next summer) and getting close in some of those environments proved to be tough! I’m not looking for a “do-all” Africa rifle, just one to fit a niche for slightly longer range plains game, hence the interest in .338. There’s also a chance this action may turn into a .416 Taylor. The only reason I haven’t already done that is that finding a barrel and good components has been a bear. The round feeds flawlessly, however.

 

[TroyF]

What safety is that

 

[NTX]

What safety is that

Gentry

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I vote 416 Taylor. It would fit nicely in the action and be great for dangerous game.

 

[mdwest]

I vote 416 Taylor. It would fit nicely in the action and be great for dangerous game.

Love my 416T built on a Mauser action!

 

[NTX]

It’s really hard to argue against the 338 win mag. I use 250 grain accubonds in mine and (fingers crossed) have never had to make follow up shot on elk or black bears. However, for plains game I would probably stick to the 300 win mag or 300 WSM if the magazine will work.

The .338 would fit better as the shoulder is in the same spot as the 7 mag. I have a .300 rcm ruger hawkeye that I love, and that’s plenty of .30 cal for me. I want a little more frontal area and knock down. I’ve shot kudu, zebra, 2 oryx, and a hartebeest with a .300 win. All shots were well placed and did what they should have, but the zebra and oryx certainly left me thinking more gun would be better.