Blazer R8 issue

I am struggling a bit to comprehend the conversation, maybe I am being a bit thick here. It seems to me that R8 owners are being told that the design of the rifle allows the firing pin to be released while the bolt is not closed completely ? That doesn't sound like a good idea to me and a click is about the best outcome that you can hope for. A bang would probably not end well for the owner. Is there a firing pin block or does Blaser just rely on the fact that a soft primer strike won't go bang? Never heard of a disaster but I wouldn't want to take a chance.
 
I know someone who used to have a .257 Weatherby magnum barrel on his Blaser R93, and sometimes it had problems with it.
We thought it was a headspace problem, but in real the problem came from its resizing die. With a new one, the problem was solved.
 
I am struggling a bit to comprehend the conversation, maybe I am being a bit thick here. It seems to me that R8 owners are being told that the design of the rifle allows the firing pin to be released while the bolt is not closed completely ? That doesn't sound like a good idea to me and a click is about the best outcome that you can hope for. A bang would probably not end well for the owner. Is there a firing pin block or does Blaser just rely on the fact that a soft primer strike won't go bang? Never heard of a disaster but I wouldn't want to take a chance.
Not sure about this…you either no your equipment or don’t. I’ve hunted 5 Capes with a Blaser R8 and never had a problem with it. All of this with the ability to place a very quick second shot when needed. Much faster than with one of my traditional bolt guns.

HH
 
Today I went to Safari and Outdoor Pretoria especially to see the Blaser R8 Selous they have, which happens to be in 375H&H at present. I must say that this is a very attractive package, the wood and the case colour is exceptional.
IMG_4490.jpeg
 
Today I went to Safari and Outdoor Pretoria especially to see the Blaser R8 Selous they have, which happens to be in 375H&H at present. I must say that this is a very attractive package, the wood and the case colour is exceptional.
View attachment 718091
I saw it when we were there in August. I was drooling, but already have a 375. Now if it were in 416RM... :unsure:
 
I am struggling a bit to comprehend the conversation, maybe I am being a bit thick here. It seems to me that R8 owners are being told that the design of the rifle allows the firing pin to be released while the bolt is not closed completely ? That doesn't sound like a good idea to me and a click is about the best outcome that you can hope for. A bang would probably not end well for the owner. Is there a firing pin block or does Blaser just rely on the fact that a soft primer strike won't go bang? Never heard of a disaster but I wouldn't want to take a chance.
Not sure about this…you either no your equipment or don’t. I’ve hunted 5 Capes with a Blaser R8 and never had a problem with it. All of this with the ability to place a very quick second shot when needed. Much faster than with one of my traditional bolt guns.

HH

A just question Nhoro :)

To establish context, it is possible to release the firing pin on any turn-bolt action while closing the bolt. Just depress the trigger as the bolt is being turned down.

This is down routinely when re-assembling the rifle to avoid dry firing it. Good practice (y)

A number of folks do it to carry a live round in the chamber without having the firing pin spring under tension. Although well intended, this is obviously a mistake because a knock on the rear of the firing pin will probably cause the rifle to fire. Bad practice (n)
Now, be careful !!! if you close the turn bolt too fast on a live round (above scenario) with the firing pin intentionally released by depressing the trigger, the rifle may fire, as nothing stops the firing pin from going forward all the way to the primer. Dangerous practice (n)

If you want to test for yourself, grab your closest Mauser, Winchester, Remington, Tikka, Sako, Brno, etc. and an empty primed case.

You can do exactly the same with a R8: press the trigger as you close the bolt, except: the major safety difference between a turn-bolt and a R8 is that where a turn-bolt firing pin, released when the bolt is not in battery, can ride all the way to rest on, or fire, the primer, a safety block stops the firing pin of the R8 before it contacts the primer. Actually, what causes the dreaded click is the firing pin hitting the mechanical safety block and preventing an accident with people failing to close the action for whatever reason and still pulling the trigger.

Let us illustrate:

Here is a Winchester 70 action partially closed on an incompletely re-sized reload. If you pull the trigger now, it will possibly (likely ?) go bang*.

* whether the turn-bolt will go bang or not depends on whether the action is close enough to full battery for the firing pin to protuberate from the bolt face.

Partially closed Win 70 action.jpg


Here is a CZ 550 action partially closed on an incompletely re-sized reload. If you pull the trigger now, it will possibly (likely?) go bang*.
* whether the turn-bolt will go bang or not depends on whether the action is close enough to full battery for the firing pin to protuberate from the bolt face.

Partially closed CZ 550 action.jpg


Here is a R8 action partially closed on an incompletely re-sized reload. If you pull the trigger now, it will go click.

Partially closed R8 action.jpg


Which one do you want to try?

Of course, you are going to tell me that you are not stupid enough to pull the trigger on your turn bolt if the action is not closed, and that you can tell if it is with your eyes closed.

To which I will answer that I am not stupid enough to pull the trigger on my R8 if the action is not closed, and that I can tell if it is with my eyes closed.
 
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A just question Nhoro :)

To establish context, it is possible to release the firing pin on any turn-bolt action while closing the bolt. Just depress the trigger as the bolt is being turned down.

This is down routinely when re-assembling the rifle to avoid dry firing it. Good practice (y)

A number of folks do it to carry a live round in the chamber without having the firing pin spring under tension. Although well intended, this is obviously a mistake because a knock on the rear of the firing pin will probably cause the rifle to fire. Bad practice (n)
Now, be careful !!! if you close the turn bolt too fast on a live round (above scenario) with the firing pin intentionally released by depressing the trigger, the rifle may fire, as nothing stops the firing pin from going forward all the way to the primer. Dangerous practice (n)

If you want to test for yourself, grab your closest Mauser, Winchester, Remington, Tikka, Sako, Brno, etc. and an empty primed case.

You can do exactly the same with a R8: press the trigger as you close the bolt, except: the major safety difference between a turn-bolt and a R8 is that where a turn-bolt firing pin, released when the bolt is not in battery, can ride all the way to rest on, or fire, the primer, a safety block stops the firing pin of the R8 before it contacts the primer. Actually, what causes the dreaded click is the firing pin hitting the mechanical safety block and preventing an accident with people failing to close the action for whatever reason and still pulling the trigger.

Let us illustrate:

Here is a Winchester 70 action partially closed on an incompletely re-sized reload. If you pull the trigger now, it will possibly (likely ?) go bang*.

* whether the turn-bolt will go bang or not depends on whether the action is close enough to full battery for the firing pin to protuberate from the bolt face.

View attachment 718146

Here is a CZ 550 action partially closed on an incompletely re-sized reload. If you pull the trigger now, it will possibly (likely?) go bang*.
* whether the turn-bolt will go bang or not depends on whether the action is close enough to full battery for the firing pin to protuberate from the bolt face.

View attachment 718147

Here is a R8 action partially closed on an incompletely re-sized reload. If you pull the trigger now, it will go click.

View attachment 718149

Which one do you want to try?

Of course, you are going to tell me that you are not stupid enough to pull the trigger on your turn bolt if the action is not closed, and that you can tell if it is with your eyes closed.

To which I will answer that I am not stupid enough to pull the trigger on my R8 if the action is not closed, and that I can tell if it is with my eyes closed.
The part you left out is the fact that on the turn bolt rifles the rifle may go bang with bolt handle lifted when trigger is pulled (very unlikely), but if it does the bolt will be closed before ignition. The firing pin can not reach the primer if the bolt handle is lifted, so the energy of the striker spring needs to close the bolt before igniting the primer. The round will not fire with bolt handle lifted, if the round fires the bolt handle will be forced closed prior to ignition as the striker drops. Generally the energy needed to finish closing the bolt saps so much energy there is not enough remaining to ignite primer. Other than that, a decent comparison of the safety features between conventional bolt action and R8. Your narrative would make it seem that a lifted bolt could cause safety issues, when that's not the case, other than potential misfires when facing DG, which the R8 also shares.
 
Capture R8vsBolt.PNG


No....no modern bolt action will allow the firing pin to strike primer out of battery absent some mechanical failure, to imply this is disingenuous. The firing pin can not reach primer if bolt handle is lifted and locking lugs are not engaged. Can you describe the "very specific situation" where a turn bolt will strike the primer out of battery ?
 
The part you left out is the fact that on the turn bolt rifles the rifle may go bang with bolt handle lifted when trigger is pulled (very unlikely), but if it does the bolt will be closed before ignition. The firing pin can not reach the primer if the bolt handle is lifted, so the energy of the striker spring needs to close the bolt before igniting the primer. The round will not fire with bolt handle lifted, if the round fires the bolt handle will be forced closed prior to ignition as the striker drops. Generally the energy needed to finish closing the bolt saps so much energy there is not enough remaining to ignite primer. Other than that, a decent comparison of the safety features between conventional bolt action and R8. Your narrative would make it seem that a lifted bolt could cause safety issues, when that's not the case, other than potential misfires when facing DG, which the R8 also shares.

I generally fully agree with you roklok, but the turn-bolt will complete its rotation doward under the force of the fire pin spring being released, ONLY IF the bolt face is not blocked from moving forward, for example by an oversize reload that does not fully chamber, or by a dirty chamber.

The case you describe, which we can all easily replicate, of the bolt completing closure under the strike of the fire pin release, only applies on an empty chamber, and does not apply to the circumstance we are discussing here: failure to fully close on an oversized reload.

As I stated in the above post, "*whether the turn-bolt will go bang or not depends on whether the action is close enough to full battery for the firing pin to protuberate from the bolt face". This is highly variable, especially with firing pins that are screwed in the bolt shroud, and that have an adjustable length, like for example the pin of the CZ 550.

A lifted bolt could indeed cause a safety issue, but I will hasten to state that this is a rarity because the locking lugs of a turn bolt engage the barrel - or action - tenons by ~10 mm, and a 20% closed turn bolt action still has ~2 mm of lug contact depth, which is plenty enough to maintain the action closed. In fact, I expect that most out of battery firing with a turn bolt go undetected, unless lugs are damaged.
 
View attachment 718164

No....no modern bolt action will allow the firing pin to strike primer out of battery absent some mechanical failure, to imply this is disingenuous. The firing pin can not reach primer if bolt handle is lifted and locking lugs are not engaged. Can you describe the "very specific situation" where a turn bolt will strike the primer out of battery ?

I promise you that firing pins that are screwed in the bolt shroud (e.g. CZ 550, etc.) can be unknowingly re-assembled at incorrect length and protuberate enough from the bolt face to strike the primer while the bolt is not fully in battery, e.g. bolt partially closed on an oversize reload not fully chambered (we are of course not talking about a reload sticking out 1/4" out of the chamber, but one resisting the last few thousandths of fully sitting in the chamber). This is not the case of the "bolt handle is lifted and locking lugs are not engaged", this is the case of bolt partially closed and lugs partially engaged, as will be the case on an oversized reload. In this case, this is not a mechanical failure per se, but I still agree to the concept: this falls in the same type of situation, something has been done wrong.

I am not prosecuting turn bolts safety, I own plenty and consider them fully safe, and I am not being disingenuous (hint: ask me how I learned a long time ago about reassembling a CZ 550 firing pin at incorrect length), I am just making the point that when the human factor goes wrong, the best mechanical designs can be made to fail, and this applies just as much to any turn bolt as it does to a R8.
 
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