What makes a stock mitigate recoil better?

[Kootenay Hunter]

Good day All,

My lady is away this weekend, so I have uninterrupted wood shop time and a dozen beers, subsequently I am working on a couple rifle stocks.

The first stock is a practice stock in black walnut (I have not made one in a while, and the ones I have made have been two piece stocks for ruger no.1's, vice a single piece bolt action stock) the practice stock will be the new home of a husky 6.5x55.
The second stock is for a 9.3x64 I recently bought (FN Supreme action with a heym barrel put together by Ralph Martini). The rifle shoots well, but came with a custom composite stock that is to light, which makes the gun too light. The whole rifle with optic and sling is 8.00 lbs. With 250gr loads is it manageable, but running the 285's the recoil is a bit terse. The other day on the range I put 25 rounds through it of 285gr oryx working up a load, and by the end I found it rather unpleasant. It also scope cut the bejesus out of a guy who wanted to try it out; I had given him fair warning.

Once I am done with the practice stock, I am going to move to the 9.3x64 stock in an attempt to get it to a target weight of 9-9.5 lbs. Numerous places on the forum I have seen people comment that proper stock shape mitigates recoil. So with that context in mind...

What are the characteristic stock design element that help mitigate recoil? Thanks.

 

[USMA84DAB]

1. Wide/large butt - look at a Mosin-Nagant for what NOT to do!
2. Comb is in line with the bore/not dropped, rounded and wide so it doesn't knife into the shooter's cheekbone
3. A grippable fore end
4. A more vertical pistol grip that can help to pull the stock back into the shoulder
5. Thickness for weight/mass to absorb the recoil - this fights directly against being nice to carry all day

My $.02 worth

 

[MS 9x56]

1. Wide/large butt - look at a Mosin-Nagant for what NOT to do!
2. Comb is in line with the bore/not dropped, rounded and wide so it doesn't knife into the shooter's cheekbone
3. A grippable fore end
4. A more vertical pistol grip that can help to pull the stock back into the shoulder
5. Thickness for weight/mass to absorb the recoil - this fights directly against being nice to carry all day

My $.02 worth

Sounds like you are describing the European design CZ 550 stock. One other item I would add is the LOP must fit the shooter. Too short or too long both enhance recoil.

 

[USMA84DAB]

YES! LOP is very important - missed that one.

The European stocks seem to drop at the comb and that accentuates perceived recoil.

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

Everything usma84dab said (that user name makes mine look simple when you need to type it out)) anyway, I’d look at some stocks made by professional stock makers(internet is good here) and maybe try some rifles at a gun store to see what fits you and is comfortable to shoulder. This will give you some ideas that you can combine to help pick what works best for your needs. The one and only full stock I made (seem to be mostly two piece one that I’ve done) I basically copied an old rigby stock and just changed the cheek piece. And fit a good quality butt pad like the 1 1/8" limbsaver pads or similar
Gumpy

 

[Kootenay Hunter]

Thanks for the advice guys, I made some pretty decent progress on the practice stock yesterday. The bottom metal is inletted, and outline is cut. I did sand one section and throw some oil on it to get an idea of how it is going to look. It needs a lot more work, but is coming along.

 

[Paul K]

That stock is nothing but...... WOW!

Paul

 

[Rifleman97]

I personally prefer the opposite of Monte Carlo stocks these days for recoil. Look up McMillan Game Warden LR (long range) to see what I mean.

The butt pad actually goes higher than the bore on that stock, keeping the recoil much more in line. The more drop the stock has the more muzzle rise you will have.

 

[Nhoro]

I would add that balance has a big impact on felt recoil. Barrel heavy or butt heavy seems to increase the felt recoil. I drilled into the butt of my 458 and put lead weights so that it balances just infront of the trigger guard.

 

[Kootenay Hunter]

That stock is nothing but...... WOW!

Paul

Honestly that one is just a piece of black walnut that came from a live edge slab. The local fine wood store was selling the slab for $50 since it had some really back checking in it. I was able to cut that out of it, plus enough for a 2 piece stock.


I made this stock for my 500NE, from a chunk of New Zealand walnut.Much nicer IMO.

 

[Rifleman97]

I personally prefer the opposite of Monte Carlo stocks these days for recoil. Look up McMillan Game Warden LR (long range) to see what I mean.

The butt pad actually goes higher than the bore on that stock, keeping the recoil much more in line. The more drop the stock has the more muzzle rise you will have.

Missed the edit window, meant to include "for scoped guns"

For iron sights the current winchester safari express has ergonomics I like, with the buttpad as high as it can be while also being able to get a good cheek weld to see the sights well without looking over them. But most of my guns are scoped anyways. When my next barreled action gets here I'll be attempting a McMillan Game Warden shape with a royal walnut stock. I also prefer straight comb or negative comb (weatherby style) to not beat up my cheek.

Honestly that one is just a piece of black walnut that came from a live edge slab. The local fine wood store was selling the slab for $50 since it had some really back checking in it. I was able to cut that out of it, plus enough for a 2 piece stock.


I made this stock for my 500NE, from a chunk of New Zealand walnut.Much nicer IMO. View attachment 702575

That's a really nice looking stock! Looks really matte, especially on the forend, was that unfinished or do you just prefer a really matte look?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

If the gun is balanced, proper LOP, and of sufficient weight, getting punched in the cheek should not be an issue with moderate Monte Carlo design. Not the old goofy roll-over crap! Because I hunt with a scope, I prefer a raised cheek rest that will give immediate acquisition when gun is mounted.

 

[Kootenay Hunter]

Missed the edit window, meant to include "for scoped guns"

For iron sights the current winchester safari express has ergonomics I like, with the buttpad as high as it can be while also being able to get a good cheek weld to see the sights well without looking over them. But most of my guns are scoped anyways. When my next barreled action gets here I'll be attempting a McMillan Game Warden shape with a royal walnut stock. I also prefer straight comb or negative comb (weatherby style) to not beat up my cheek.


That's a really nice looking stock! Looks really matte, especially on the forend, was that unfinished or do you just prefer a really matte look?

For me finish depends on the application. That rifle was for a trip to Africa, and while it may go back, it is not a daily driver, subsequently I did not want a shiny stock that might give me away. I did another Ruger no.1 as my test stock before I did that one, and it was with shedua wood, on a 450/400 nitro. For that one I did about 15 coats of tru oil, and it is really shiny. that stock is much better for wet weather.
So long story short, that one is intentionally matte finished, I sometimes do a really shiny stock, some in the middle. But I have only made a few stocks, and finished a few rough stocks.

Here is the ruger stock I glossed up:

 

[Rifleman97]

If the gun is balanced, proper LOP, and of sufficient weight, getting punched in the cheek should not be an issue with moderate Monte Carlo design. Not the old goofy roll-over crap! Because I hunt with a scope, I prefer a raised cheek rest that will give immediate acquisition when gun is mounted.

You misunderstood, the monte carlo isn't about the cheek design. I was meaning the drop at heel. Having a monte carlo means the butt is lower, meaning that the muzzle will rise more. Simple physics. The angle of the comb is what I was talking about when I said that I prefer straight or negative to avoid cheek bruising on the heavy hitters.

This is the game warden. You'll notice the heel is actually negative, or rather the top of the buttstock is actually "above" the bore and almost above the whole action. I've seen videos of a guy only swapping the stock in the same gun and the difference in muzzle rise between this and a traditional monte carlo is truly shocking.

The game warden design actually gives you a higher cheek position than a traditional monte carlo