Waxing a rifle stock

WD-40 on a woolen cloth and rubbing the gun .... this for when I go to a damp hunting ground ...
To keep the weapon dry and I keep it in a medium type cover of synthetic material ...
 
I've got no problem with using wax, but it is hard for me to accept the statements that linseed oil is useless against water. The Japanese rifles seemed to work fine after a few years on Corregidor. That isn't exactly the desert. Nor is the Somme. Not to mention the Rasputitsa.

Has technology progressed? Absolutely. To my eyes, none of the new finishes look as good as a proper hand-rubbed oil finish. With the available synthetic options, isn't wood an aesthetic choice anyway?
 
1/3 boiled linssed oil, 1/3 terpentine and a 1/3 beewax. Heat it carefully and apply when cold. Buff if needed.

Great result.
 
reviving an old thread to add a recent discovery...

Ive been using "board butter" on a couple of very nice walnut stocks for the last several months and have been super happy with the results..

its basically a concoction of food grade mineral oil and pure bees wax that people use to condition nice exotic hardwood cutting boards..

it has zero color (doesn't discolor or darken the wood).. is 100% "pure" (food grade).. and provides an excellent finish and great protection against moisture/water (good enough to protect something like a cutting board that is intentionally doused in water frequently, covered in fruit, vegetable, and meat juices, etc.. )...

There are plenty of makers out there that are all producing the same product (food grade mineral oil and beeswax) for about $10 for a tin that would treat several guns for several years..


Or.. honestly you can make enough to last you the rest of your life for less than $20... FWIW, I used about 25% less oil than the guy in the video below and got a product that is about the same consistency as vaseline.. which has been about perfect for my use...

https://www.amazon.com/YIH-Beeswax-Pastilles-Filtered-Projects/dp/B07V3FKWN7/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3K7ECCNBM0OIH&keywords=beeswax&qid=1663603324&sprefix=beeswax,aps,165&sr=8-6



 

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I am liking the matt look of my new Heym stock and whilst I need to protect it I don't want it to go glossy like a London best. So I just gently rub a bare minimum of Windsor and Newtons raw linseed oil onto it a few drops for the whole thing.
 
reviving an old thread to add a recent discovery...

Ive been using "board butter" on a couple of very nice walnut stocks for the last several months and have been super happy with the results..

its basically a concoction of food grade mineral oil and pure bees wax that people use to condition nice exotic hardwood cutting boards..

it has zero color (doesn't discolor or darken the wood).. is 100% "pure" (food grade).. and provides an excellent finish and great protection against moisture/water (good enough to protect something like a cutting board that is intentionally doused in water frequently, covered in fruit, vegetable, and meat juices, etc.. )...

There are plenty of makers out there that are all producing the same product (food grade mineral oil and beeswax) for about $10 for a tin that would treat several guns for several years..


Or.. honestly you can make enough to last you the rest of your life for less than $20... FWIW, I used about 25% less oil than the guy in the video below and got a product that is about the same consistency as vaseline.. which has been about perfect for my use...

https://www.amazon.com/YIH-Beeswax-Pastilles-Filtered-Projects/dp/B07V3FKWN7/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3K7ECCNBM0OIH&keywords=beeswax&qid=1663603324&sprefix=beeswax,aps,165&sr=8-6



@mdwest
Gilleys gun wax and polish is another excellent product that does the same thing. I use it on all my timber stocks and metal work.
Bob
 
I tend to use Renaissance wax but im like the turps, wax and linseed oil idea. Nice thing with ren wax is you can use on the metal work too
 
This is the worlds oldest gun agreement, but second place to the 270 vs. the 30-06..

Wax on a satin finish makes wood shine like a gloss finish..scares moose etc. :)

A gloss finish is more water/moisture proof than the old world satin finish or the new world oil modified urathanes..

Its a no win situation, the secret is care given each night, the rest is gobbled goop..

in 40 plus years Ive never needed a plastic stock or stainless steel rifle, and never will. That's my choice, nobody elses..

270 obviously lol
 
I tend to use Renaissance wax but im like the turps, wax and linseed oil idea. Nice thing with ren wax is you can use on the metal work too

I use it as well. Outstanding product.
 
I first drop stock then clean with a high quality antique wood cleaner recommended by a famous antique dealer. Cannot remember brand name. Then apply DEM-BART Waxylene gunstock wax. I use this process after a long annual safari or a sheep hunt. These rifles get used hard over the decades and this technique seems to work for me.
 
@mdwest
Gilleys gun wax and polish is another excellent product that does the same thing. I use it on all my timber stocks and metal work.
Bob
Since I have used this on the outside and inside of my wooden stocks non have warped due to humidity or being soaked in the rain. Last longer on the metal work than oil and I have not had any rust problems since using the wax on the blued steel.
 

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Are you on Arkansas hunting net to?
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HEY there, if you want the lion info here it is.

BULL CREEK OUTFITTERS WELLS NV. {FACEBOOK} CLEVE AND BECKY DWIRE 775293 -1917..
THEY ARE OUT HUNTING ALOT SO MAY HAVE TO LEAVE MESSAGE.


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Hi Montana Pat heres the lion info,.
BULL CREEK OUTFITTERS WELLS NV. [ FACEBOOK] CLEVE AND BECKY DWIRE 775- 293-1917. they are out hunting alot this tlme of year

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bigrich wrote on Bob Nelson 35Whelen's profile.
thanks for your reply bob , is it feasible to build a 444 on a P14/M17 , or is the no4 enfield easier to build? i know where i can buy a lothar walther barrel in 44, 1-38 twist , but i think with a barrel crown of .650" the profile is too light .
Duke1966 wrote on Flanders357's profile.
ok $120 plus shipping
 
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