Trophy Room build Question - Wall backing

That is interesting. Are your slabs floating? Here because we have a 4' deep frost line. We have to have footings below the frost line. So our slabs don't move. But Colorado is fairly cold too so I would imagine you're would be similar.
The slab is just laying on the footers with about 8-10 inches of pea gravel under the rest of the floor but I think the soil around here moves a bunch? The basement has 9’ walls.
 
Thanks guys. I think your all right about the drywall vs wood boards. The question was more about if I use wood boards would I really need the plywood in addition. But some of you made good points about the benefits of drywall. And to be honest I'm gonna go that route instead. I can always had accent wood panel walls later purely decoratively.

So I am going to go with plywood then drywall. And then play with some paneling later after I start mounting trophies.

Thanks guys.


Here is the progress so far. Framing is done, 9' ceilings. Except where the duct work is. We laid a subfloor which is great for any potential leaks it will make sure my floors don't all need to be torn out. But it's especially good for winter up here in Canada. Makes the floor much warmer.

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Isn't the building part so much fun. Digging whole room area down 50" and trucking away only to be filled and pounded with pit run sure woke me up and hit the budget for a cool $5K extra,.

I am unsure of holding/shear force for OSB compared to plywood. I do not think there is really much difference I costed ply vs OSB and the OSB won, $20 per sheet less for OSB. Both are dam expensive at $35 and $55, but when you buy 50 sheets that saved $1000 helps. That's another/extra PG animal on next trip?

MB
 
I went with rough cut pine from a local friend with a sawmill. Put a lap joint on it, applied it vertically backed by purlins. I can hang what I want where I want and it looks great.
 
Oh and it’s cheaper than anything you can buy at Home Depot.
 
Isn't the building part so much fun. Digging whole room area down 50" and trucking away only to be filled and pounded with pit run sure woke me up and hit the budget for a cool $5K extra,.

I am unsure of holding/shear force for OSB compared to plywood. I do not think there is really much difference I costed ply vs OSB and the OSB won, $20 per sheet less for OSB. Both are dam expensive at $35 and $55, but when you buy 50 sheets that saved $1000 helps. That's another/extra PG animal on next trip?

MB
OSB is rated for shear walls the same as plywood. I haven't seen ply used in years except for roof sheeting. Just follow the nailing schedule.
 
I have my room sheathed in construction OSB
It's just under 1/2"
I then have that covered with reclaimed wood from barns, chicken coups, outhouses ect.
It's rough sawn 1" and nailed to the OSB with reclaimed nails from the same buildings that I gathered the wood from. My heavy animal is a fantastic 350+" bull elk and it out weighs any of the common plains game mounts that I have.
 
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Hey guys, I am currently building a new home and of course I have allocated some space for my trophy room. The rough ins are all going in right now and insulation is supposed to begin on Monday. Unfortunately the wife was not going to approve an additional 600sqft to the home, but since we are building a bungalow I have a huge basement where we have agreed I can steal 600sqft for my office/trophy room and another 100sqft for my gun locker room. So needless to say I am pumped, and I will add some pictures later in the build when I have more to show.

My question though is in regards to backing, I know it makes complete sense to install plywood then drywall so that you can screw anywhere for the mounts. Well I am not doing drywall. For those of you who haven't seen my old basement here is the link https://www.africahunting.com/threads/my-trophy-room.54697/. I plan on using this same wood but in the entire room. This barnboard is 1x8 so it is quite sturdy. I do plan on mounting vertically again so I was thinking would plywood behind this be extreme overkill?

I plan on strapping the entire room horizontally (with screws) then mounting the boards vertically using wood glue and a brad nailer. I realize the brad nails are not holding a ton but they do hold especially until the glue dries. Being that it is a vertical installation there could never be two heads putting weight onto the one board. Do any of you foresee any issues with this? I realize the 1" board is thicker and stronger then 3/4' ply behind the drywall. I am more concerned of the 1" board leaving the strapping all together for some of the heavier animals like my Elk, Red Stag, Kudu etc.
Chago,
Since you are in the 'build' phase, consider making your gun room a cement vault with a safe door. Pouring cement walls and ceiling will add very little cost when putting in the foundation. Don't forget to put power in the room for your lighting and dehumidifier. I went with a Fort Knox door on mine. They seemed to be about the toughest of the bunch. You just get the rough opening size from them and have the builder pour accordingly. They come and bolt the door in. Literally takes an hour to install.
WAB
 
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Chago,
Since you are in the 'build' phase, consider making your gun room a cement vault with a safe door. Pouring cement walls and ceiling will add very little cost when putting in the foundation. Don't forget to put power in the room for your lighting and dehumidifier. I went with a Fort Knox door on mine. They seemed to be about the toughest of the bunch. You just get the rough opening size from them and have the builder pour accordingly. They come and bolt the door in. Literally takes an hour to install.
WAB

So the gun room is going to be fairly small. About 100sqft. It actually already has 3 concrete walls from the basement pour. The 4th wall we are framing of 2x6 and it will have a sheet of steel across it. Then just like the other room will have 1/2 ply on both sides. Then drywall. My gun room is really designed to prevent a smash and grab. To get through all of that I have plenty of time to come down with ole faithful. Now if this is someone who is smart and do this when nobody's home.... Well no matter what you build at that point they can get in if they want to. I have a good buddy who works on vaults and locks. He has a full shop of vault doors he's had to open for people. He said there's nothing out there that takes a pro longer then 30 mins to get into. And that's the seriously expensive ones. Most of them take no more then 3-4 mins.
 
So the gun room is going to be fairly small. About 100sqft. It actually already has 3 concrete walls from the basement pour. The 4th wall we are framing of 2x6 and it will have a sheet of steel across it. Then just like the other room will have 1/2 ply on both sides. Then drywall. My gun room is really designed to prevent a smash and grab. To get through all of that I have plenty of time to come down with ole faithful. Now if this is someone who is smart and do this when nobody's home.... Well no matter what you build at that point they can get in if they want to. I have a good buddy who works on vaults and locks. He has a full shop of vault doors he's had to open for people. He said there's nothing out there that takes a pro longer then 30 mins to get into. And that's the seriously expensive ones. Most of them take no more then 3-4 mins.


I agree with this statement. I do a lot of insurance for jewelers and the safes are rated trtl 30 or trtl 30 x 6 etc. tool and torch resistant for 30 mins or 30 mins on all six sides of safe. These safes run 8-12k for a safe the size of a gun safe. I would assume a ft Knox or similar quality safe would take a lot less time if someone knew what they were doing. I have safes more for the quick in and out as well as fire protection.

Last comment on wall, drywall, osb, wood etc. the anchors will have a lot to do with the success of the project. Wood allows a good screw to be used. Drywall you should look for a good expanding anchor to distribute the load.

Good luck.
 
If you are not home an alarm system works
 
I lined my library with 1/4 in plate steel. Then bookcases,rifle stands built on after. The walls can handle hundreds of pounds.
If someone wants in, they will get in.
I have vibration sensors, and a motion detector. Battery backed up system with a camera I can view on my phone. I put asmuch money in the security as the build, but didnt spend that much overall.
 
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Chago,
Since you are in the 'build' phase, consider making your gun room a cement vault with a safe door. Pouring cement walls and ceiling will add very little cost when putting in the foundation. Don't forget to put power in the room for your lighting and dehumidifier. I went with a Fort Knox door on mine. They seemed to be about the toughest of the bunch. You just get the rough opening size from them and have the builder pour accordingly. They come and bolt the door in. Literally takes an hour to install.
WAB
That is a dream of mine!
 
Speaking as a long time contractor: Use 5/8 or 3/4 OSB screwed to the studs with 1/2 or 5/8 drywall over. It will be cheaper than solid wood and be more stable with climate changes. Gives you a much wider variety of finish colors. It will be plenty strong but if you want extra insurance put 2xs between the studs at appropriate height(s).
This is exactly what i did for my trophy room and it turned out perfect. I can hang anything anywhere without worries. Good luck.
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Thanks. I have been fortunate. Rhino was a green hunt so I had a replica made and put it above the fireplace. 38 inch horn.
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I have a friend who has one hell of a trophy room. He actually built his home around it... its all 3/4" plywood behind the drywall. He has lots of heavy animals hanging there...He built a really large double door in the back so he could get big mounts in the room.
Remember to move your electrical boxes out.
 

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