Problem with ruger M77 RLS in 270

[spike.t]

Jeez shame can't do voice messages on here... ..so took it out of the stock..here are couple photos showing safe on and off...couldn't see any problems as I worked it...on safe can't pull trigger but can open bolt...safe off can pull trigger..cocks perfectly on opening bolt....also found an empty 270 case....it behaved exactly the same as with a loaded round...close bolt and clicks over rim....then same can't move bolt any further....its a different feeling to trying to load a round that maybe slightly long etc...where it closes but in a spongy way till it stops or chambers...this is a dead stop as soon as the extractor claw has snapped over the rim....just wondering as it feels like it is pushing the extractor claw out minutely as it pops over the rim and then no movement...is it possible that this could be the problem...making it jam the bolt as it tries to turn....

 

[PARA45]

I still believe that you need to clean the bolt. There is something that when the case is pressed against the ejector is not letting the bolt close. If it was something else, the bolt wouldn’t close with or without a case.

 

[375 Ruger Fan]

Mike, I pulled my M77 with tang safety out of the gun safe. With the safety on, I can't move the bolt. I thought this might be your problem, but it's likely not.

Apparently, there are two versions of the M77 tang safety version. That's why there are two different owners manual.

"Below 79 version"
(Manufactured from 1968 to 1984)

"Above 79 version"
(Manufactured after 1984)

 

[spike.t]

OK mine would be after 1984 model as got it new in 1990.

 

[spike.t]

Also tried it with extractor claw removed and still had same problem....googled how to take rear off bolt...so did that cleaned firing pin spring etc..but wasn't dirty as hardly had any rounds through it...was a real pain I the ass to get the extractor back in over the kind of c clip that keeps it in place...in video the guy said you can remove bolt head to clean the ejector pin...but didn't recommend it unless you had the correct equipment as its spring is under lot of tension....so didn't do that...

 

[C.W. Richter]

The boltface in one of your earliest pics above appears to have some roughness or light rust on it.?? Indicative of possible issues within or just behind the face. Can you push the ejector plunger in/out w/ no problems?? Also, the bolt is on the wrong side. Spray penetrating oil on the boltface and work the plunger (i typ work them w/ the back of an old toothbrush used to clean tough-to-get at surfaces everytime the gun is cleaned/lubed. Ruger is infamous for extremely heavy springs (in triggers and bolts.) Did you fire it when first purchased (was it ever fired)? Is the warranty up?? lol We want to see this solved and the explanation...i missed several hunting reports on account of this. I too have one M77 II-all stainless. No issues other than the orig. 7.5 lb trigger which I fixed!

 

[Hogpatrol]

When all else fails, email or send a contact form to Ruger.

 

[spike.t]

The boltface in one of your earliest pics above appears to have some roughness or light rust on it.?? Indicative of possible issues within or just behind the face. Can you push the ejector plunger in/out w/ no problems?? Also, the bolt is on the wrong side. Spray penetrating oil on the boltface and work the plunger (i typ work them w/ the back of an old toothbrush used to clean tough-to-get at surfaces everytime the gun is cleaned/lubed. Ruger is infamous for extremely heavy springs (in triggers and bolts.) Did you fire it when first purchased (was it ever fired)? Is the warranty up?? lol We want to see this solved and the explanation...i missed several hunting reports on account of this. I too have one M77 II-all stainless. No issues other than the orig. 7.5 lb trigger which I fixed!

Hi sorry to mess up your reading......yes I have sprayed dry lube onto the bolt face and worked the ejector plunger quite a bit...as you say it's a very strong spring for such a small item....yes I put a dew shots through it when first got it a million years ago....so a few decades out of warranty.....I have also tried filing into the rim of the empty case to deepen it a bit go see if that helped put the extractor claw a bit deeper..but still had same result of hitting a brick wall trying to close the bolt...and yeah i would like to know whats going on as well.....when you sit and work through everything there is no apparent reason for it not to work....but ....the ejector plunger is only thing that can be giving a problem...but as I said it moves when you work it...just wondering if its standing fractionally proud when compressed but not visible when you check it....also not sure whst you mean about the bolt is on the wrong side.....
Doing my head in as have spent at least half the day pissing around with it....

 

[Hogpatrol]

Does the extractor claw rotate about the bolt head? Just a WAG, move it opposite or off center of the ejector button and try inserting the bolt.

 

[Wade J VanGinkel]

Since you have an empty case. Have you tried loading it with the safety off as opposed to on? Just to eliminate an issue with the safety

 

[AimSmall]

If the ejector is moving freely...
(On a similar action, mine depresses smoothly using the tip of cheap plastic pen)

Blacken (with a sharpie?) a round to see where it is hitting when chambering.

 

[DG870]

I’ve been following along and can see why you’re frustrated. That’s a real nice rifle in a great caliber. I bought a Ruger 77 in 1997 and still have it. I just got it out of the gun safe to look at itit. Seems to me that if the bolt functions ok and the safety works ok,without a cartridge and the gun dry fires ok without a cartridge and it won’t close with a cartridge in it that the problem has to be either with the cartridge or the chamber, If your using new ammo then it shouldn’t be that. From looking at the picture it looks like the bolt stops at the 2nd camming notch so it’s very close to closing. I’d check again to make sure that the chamber doesn’t have some crud in the shoulder area on something on the breech face. Have you tried using your 410 brush and a cordless drill to clean the chamber, pushing it in to clean the shoulder and neck area. A 38 bore brush with finer bristles might work better. I just had to do this on an older 7x57 I’ve been playing around with to improve and smooth up chambering. I used the brush and Kriol to clean it up. Looks like you’ve addressed most everything else…. Best of luck to you!

 

[pilar]

I’ve been following along and can see why you’re frustrated. That’s a real nice rifle in a great caliber. I bought a Ruger 77 in 1997 and still have it. I just got it out of the gun safe to look at itit. Seems to me that if the bolt functions ok and the safety works ok,without a cartridge and the gun dry fires ok without a cartridge and it won’t close with a cartridge in it that the problem has to be either with the cartridge or the chamber, If your using new ammo then it shouldn’t be that. From looking at the picture it looks like the bolt stops at the 2nd camming notch so it’s very close to closing. I’d check again to make sure that the chamber doesn’t have some crud in the shoulder area on something on the breech face. Have you tried using your 410 brush and a cordless drill to clean the chamber, pushing it in to clean the shoulder and neck area. A 38 bore brush with finer bristles might work better. I just had to do this on an older 7x57 I’ve been playing around with to improve and smooth up chambering. I used the brush and Kriol to clean it up. Looks like you’ve addressed most everything else…. Best of luck to you!

I agree, a can of brake cleaner to pressure wash the chamber and bolt housing and a plastic bore brush, then some Lucas gun lubricant
i had to clean a WW2 enfield like this

 

[spike.t]

Since you have an empty case. Have you tried loading it with the safety off as opposed to on? Just to eliminate an issue with the safety

Mmm....always load with safety off....and as said the safety looks like working fine....doing what it's supposed to do

 

[spike.t]

I’ve been following along and can see why you’re frustrated. That’s a real nice rifle in a great caliber. I bought a Ruger 77 in 1997 and still have it. I just got it out of the gun safe to look at itit. Seems to me that if the bolt functions ok and the safety works ok,without a cartridge and the gun dry fires ok without a cartridge and it won’t close with a cartridge in it that the problem has to be either with the cartridge or the chamber, If your using new ammo then it shouldn’t be that. From looking at the picture it looks like the bolt stops at the 2nd camming notch so it’s very close to closing. I’d check again to make sure that the chamber doesn’t have some crud in the shoulder area on something on the breech face. Have you tried using your 410 brush and a cordless drill to clean the chamber, pushing it in to clean the shoulder and neck area. A 38 bore brush with finer bristles might work better. I just had to do this on an older 7x57 I’ve been playing around with to improve and smooth up chambering. I used the brush and Kriol to clean it up. Looks like you’ve addressed most everything else…. Best of luck to you!

Will see tomorrow if can find cordless drill and attach the 410 brush...and thanks

 

[spike.t]

I agree, a can of brake cleaner to pressure wash the chamber and bolt housing and a plastic bore brush, then some Lucas gun lubricant
i had to clean a WW2 enfield like this

Kind of a long way from nearest auto parts supplier

 

[spike.t]

If the ejector is moving freely...
(On a similar action, mine depresses smoothly using the tip of cheap plastic pen)

Blacken (with a sharpie?) a round to see where it is hitting when chambering.

Will give that a go in the morning...subject to finding a felt tip pen....pens of any sort evaporate out here.....

 

[JimP]

Will give that a go in the morning...subject to finding a felt tip pen....pens of any sort evaporate out here.....

Candle black will also work.
Light a candle and use the smoke to blacken the area.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I can't add much that has not already been recommended, I have quite a few Ruger M77 rifles both tang safety and the later 3 position safe models, they have been the most reliable rifles despite the abuse and conditions they have had to endure over the years.

I always had a trigger polish job done on every one of them, after that they became very productive rifles. I hope you find the problem soon, I will certainly stay tuned to hear how this ends.

Good luck.

 

[spike.t]

OK...drill kaput , so spent bout 15 mins manually turning the 410 brush with some nitro solvent and scrubbing in and out....dried with patch and not much in way of dirt...tried loading bullet..same shit...so having sense of humour failure I loaded the empty case and put rifle on the table and pushed down on bolt using my weight....bolt gave up and closed....I thought now its going to be fun opening it...but no it opened fine...here some photos of the base of the case....it to me appears the culprit is the ejector pin standing slightly proud of the bolt face....not sure how to solve that...