Lessons learned (some conventional and some not) & suggestions based on 30 years of fly-fishing
As a way of introduction, I am no fly-fishing instructor, I only know what I know by learning it alone by experience, but I have enjoyed fly-fishing for 30 years, and I have found invaluable tips in the now numerous fly fishing videos on YouTube, especially those hosted by Orvis' Tom Rosenbauer, which have allowed me to correct an endless list of mistakes I was making.
So my first thought would be to watch the tutorial series in which Tom Rosenbauer covers anything and all things between choosing a first rod, to the most arcane fishing techniques.
Over the years I have accumulated 9 sets of rods & reels:
Orvis Recon II, 2 weight, Mid-Flex, 10' long
Orvis Superfine Touch, 3 weight, Full Flex, 7'6" long
Orvis Superfine Carbon, 3 weight, Full Flex, 6'6" long
Orvis Zero Gravity Helios, 4 weight, Mid-Flex, 8'6" long
Orvis Helios, 5 weight, Mid-Flex, 9' long
Orvis Zero Gravity Helios, 5 weight, Mid-Flex, 8'6" long
Orvis Clearwater, 5 weight, Mid Flex, 8'6" long
Orvis Zero Gravity. 7 weight, Mid-Flex, 9' long
Orvis Powerhouse Graphite. 8 weight, Full Flex, 8'6" long
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Being privileged to live in Arizona, a State that should be better known for trout fishing, I fly fish regularly "big water" such as the Colorado River at Lee's Ferry, "small water" streams in the White Mountains, "still water" lakes such as the 9,000 ft elevation 950 acre Big Lake in the White Mountains, and occasionally Alaska on the Russian River or Kenai, and I have caught Rainbow, Lake, Cutthroat, Gila, Apache, Brook, Brown, and Tiger trout, large and small.
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So here is what I have learned along the way...
Rod "weight"
Relates to the "weight" of the line, not the weight of the rod.
Line "weight"
Has nothing to do with how heavy a fish you can catch on that line, but how heavy the "flies" you can cast (including streamers); how far you can cast; and in how much wind you can cast accurately.
You can catch a 6 lbs. trout on a "2 weight line" and a 2 oz trout on an "8 weight line".
You will not break a quality "2 weight rod" on a 6 lbs. trout.
Rod "action"
A "slow action" rod, also called "full flex" bends on its entire length. It is not great for long distance casts, but it allows very precise casting (landing the fly where you want), and
it is extremely forgiving for beginners learning to cast.
A "fast action" rod, also called "tip flex" at the other end of the spectrum, bends only at the tip. It casts far
when you know how to cast, but it is hard(er) to cast. It is a specialized tool.
A "medium action" rod, also called "mid flex" in the middle of the spectrum is a
jack of all trades, and this is why it is typically recommended.
Rod length
I once believed that you needed a 6 ft rod on small streams, an 8 ft rod on rivers, a 10 ft rod on lakes, etc. and I went as far in the absurd - as I now realize - as to have both 6.5 ft and 7.5 ft 3 weight rods, as well as both 8.5 ft and 9 ft 5 weight rods. Yes a 9 ft rod under low brushes on a tiny stream would be a pain to maneuver, and yes a 10 ft rod will cast farther than a 6 ft rod on a lake, but unless you have half a dozen rods, the reality is that
a 8.5 or 9 ft rod will do 99% of the jobs.
Rod weight and stiffness
Keep in mind that rod "line weight" and "rod action" impact rod actual weight and stiffness because the heavier the "line weight" is, the ticker and the heavier the rod must be.
Your arm will be sore casting all afternoon a 8 weight fast rod, while a 3 weight slow rod will be pure bliss
. This is not something to neglect, especially for women, kids, and/or beginners.
Rod brands
Everyone has their favorite. I am obviously an Orvis guy. But it is just me. Orvis, St Croix, Temple Fork, Sage, etc. all make great rods, and all offer entry-level, advanced, and best-in-class premium collections. This being said, like in optics, there are a few brands that dominate and Orvis is clearly one of them...
Note: I will keep talking about Orvis, not because they are the only choice, but because I know them well.
Premium rods
If you can afford it, it of course does not hurt, but it will take years of developing gradual casting skills before you can tell the difference between a $100 Orvis Clearwater and a $1,000 Orvis Zero Gravity Helios.
On the other end, skip the $40 Walmart rod, so hard to cast that it will drive a beginner away.
Rod sections
In the old days one-piece rods were simply better. But technology has evolved. Two-piece rods are still offered, but they typically require a 5 ft case. This is quickly awkward to transport. In my experience, modern, quality four-piece rods are best, and they fit easily in a 3 ft case.
So-called "traveler" six-piece, or even eight-piece rods exist, but I have never felt the need for such a reduced foot print.
Reels
There is a mystique about $1,000 reels. This baffles me !!! When fly fishing the quasi-sole function of the reel is to hold the line. I have no experience salt-water fly fishing, so I may miss the point, but I have almost never really actually used the breaking function ("disk drag") on a fly reel. On a fly line, the flex of the rod absorbs the fighting that a typical bail cast reel disk drag absorbs. In fly fishing hands on the line control what happens, not hands on the reel.
Skip plastic, but a recognized brand machined (preferred) or cast aluminum reel will do just fine. I cannot really see the point of spending more than $250 on a fly reel, but maybe I am just missing the point.
Rod & reel kits
This is a good idea. This ensure you get a matched rod, reel, and line. The match addresses size and weight.
So what do I suggest as a first kit?
From the specifics you provide,
Franco, I am drawing the following conclusions:
- the rod is for your wife, and I shall assume a less than sumo wrestler body and strength
- she is a complete beginner for whom ease of casting will be a critical advantage
- she is going to learn to cast on a small piece of water (1 acre pond) hence long distance is irrelevant
- you appear to be a man of means, so I shall assume more rods in the future if she likes it
I believe that
roverandbrew provided the near perfect answer for a generic situation, this is exactly what I gave the kids, although I personally went 8.5 ft (but this is vastly "the same difference").
However, in your wife's case,
Franco, I am going to make the case that how Orvis describes the Clearwater 5-Weight 9 ft rod, is not a perfect match for her:
"The Clearwater 5-Weight 9' Fly Rod is a standard for western rivers and bigger eastern water. Not only does it have the length to reach out and control drifts and the power to reach far banks, but the line weight to handle big trout and light bass. Firing a big streamer up and across a big river and reaching out to mend the line and control the drift is right in this rod's wheelhouse. Throwing big attractors with droppers, or big hoppers in the early fall is the perfect task for this rod. If big water and big flies are called for, then the Clearwater 905-4 is the weapon of choice at a price that will keep a lot of travel money in your pocket."
I would argue that cost savings is likely not your priority; that big water, big attractors, reach out, power, etc. are not your primary concern for a women learning how to cast on a 1 acre pond, and that therefore a lighter and more forgiving rod is probably more ideal.
My recommendation is therefore either:
"The Orvis Recon 4-Weight 8'6" 4-Piece is a trout rod with a versatile length and line weight that has the ability to place a dry fly deftly on the surface, fire a small streamer at a cut bank, or even handle a light nymph rig. If trout or even light bass and panfish are the target, the Recon 864-4 is an exceptional choice for versatility in a mid-price fly rod with premium performance attributes."
or even better, if apparently unconventional:
"Looking for a do-it-all rod that’s light enough for light tasks but has plenty of backbone for bigger fish? Try the 3-wt. Orvis Superfine Graphite. Our 7'6" bread-and-butter small-stream rod handles everything from small brook trout in tiny creeks to browns in midsize rivers."
Or go for a 4-wt 7'11" if you want a bit more reach/power.
Admittedly, by the time she goes fly fishing steelheads on the Madison, browns on the Colorado, salmon on the Kenai, she will need something bigger, and you will be happy to oblige, but
there is no rod easier to learn how to cast, than a slow action 3 weight graphite rod.
Sure, many see it as a specialized tool for small creeks, and it is that too, but in my experience getting quickly beginner adults to cast decently is the key to getting them hooked (pun fully intended)
I hope this was useful...
