Fly Rod Advice

[375er]

I would recommend the SAGE foundation kit. I feel that in the 5 wt it offers everything you could possibly need or want for a lifetime of fly fishing.

Until you need an 8 weight, a 10 weight, and a 7 weight 2 handed spey rod......and........

 

[KY Hunting Guy]

Until you need an 8 weight, a 10 weight, and a 7 weight 2 handed spey rod......and........

That is a true statement. I also say that you should have several of each weight in different lengths and actions for different circumstances.

 

[Doug Hamilton]

That is a true statement. I also say that you should have several of each weight in different lengths and actions for different circumstances.

Well you know what they say. Give a man a fish and you feed him.Gor a day. Teach him.how to fly fish and he will.have to buy rods,reels, lines, leaders, flies, a net ....

 

[One Day...]

My wife has said she wants to learn how to fly fish. I've ordered 200 trout ranging in size from 12" to 16" to stock in our pond, but know absolutely nothing about fly rods, flies, or fly fishing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Lessons learned (some conventional and some not) & suggestions based on 30 years of fly-fishing

As a way of introduction, I am no fly-fishing instructor, I only know what I know by learning it alone by experience, but I have enjoyed fly-fishing for 30 years, and I have found invaluable tips in the now numerous fly fishing videos on YouTube, especially those hosted by Orvis' Tom Rosenbauer, which have allowed me to correct an endless list of mistakes I was making.

So my first thought would be to watch the tutorial series in which Tom Rosenbauer covers anything and all things between choosing a first rod, to the most arcane fishing techniques.

Over the years I have accumulated 9 sets of rods & reels:

Orvis Recon II, 2 weight, Mid-Flex, 10' long​

Orvis Superfine Touch, 3 weight, Full Flex, 7'6" long​

Orvis Superfine Carbon, 3 weight, Full Flex, 6'6" long​

Orvis Zero Gravity Helios, 4 weight, Mid-Flex, 8'6" long​

Orvis Helios, 5 weight, Mid-Flex, 9' long​

Orvis Zero Gravity Helios, 5 weight, Mid-Flex, 8'6" long​

Orvis Clearwater, 5 weight, Mid Flex, 8'6" long​

Orvis Zero Gravity. 7 weight, Mid-Flex, 9' long​

Orvis Powerhouse Graphite. 8 weight, Full Flex, 8'6" long​

Being privileged to live in Arizona, a State that should be better known for trout fishing, I fly fish regularly "big water" such as the Colorado River at Lee's Ferry, "small water" streams in the White Mountains, "still water" lakes such as the 9,000 ft elevation 950 acre Big Lake in the White Mountains, and occasionally Alaska on the Russian River or Kenai, and I have caught Rainbow, Lake, Cutthroat, Gila, Apache, Brook, Brown, and Tiger trout, large and small.

So here is what I have learned along the way...

Rod "weight"
Relates to the "weight" of the line, not the weight of the rod.

Line "weight"
Has nothing to do with how heavy a fish you can catch on that line, but how heavy the "flies" you can cast (including streamers); how far you can cast; and in how much wind you can cast accurately.

You can catch a 6 lbs. trout on a "2 weight line" and a 2 oz trout on an "8 weight line".

You will not break a quality "2 weight rod" on a 6 lbs. trout.

Rod "action"
A "slow action" rod, also called "full flex" bends on its entire length. It is not great for long distance casts, but it allows very precise casting (landing the fly where you want), and it is extremely forgiving for beginners learning to cast.

A "fast action" rod, also called "tip flex" at the other end of the spectrum, bends only at the tip. It casts far when you know how to cast, but it is hard(er) to cast. It is a specialized tool.

A "medium action" rod, also called "mid flex" in the middle of the spectrum is a jack of all trades, and this is why it is typically recommended.

Rod length
I once believed that you needed a 6 ft rod on small streams, an 8 ft rod on rivers, a 10 ft rod on lakes, etc. and I went as far in the absurd - as I now realize - as to have both 6.5 ft and 7.5 ft 3 weight rods, as well as both 8.5 ft and 9 ft 5 weight rods. Yes a 9 ft rod under low brushes on a tiny stream would be a pain to maneuver, and yes a 10 ft rod will cast farther than a 6 ft rod on a lake, but unless you have half a dozen rods, the reality is that a 8.5 or 9 ft rod will do 99% of the jobs.

Rod weight and stiffness
Keep in mind that rod "line weight" and "rod action" impact rod actual weight and stiffness because the heavier the "line weight" is, the ticker and the heavier the rod must be.

Your arm will be sore casting all afternoon a 8 weight fast rod, while a 3 weight slow rod will be pure bliss. This is not something to neglect, especially for women, kids, and/or beginners.

Rod brands
Everyone has their favorite. I am obviously an Orvis guy. But it is just me. Orvis, St Croix, Temple Fork, Sage, etc. all make great rods, and all offer entry-level, advanced, and best-in-class premium collections. This being said, like in optics, there are a few brands that dominate and Orvis is clearly one of them...

Note: I will keep talking about Orvis, not because they are the only choice, but because I know them well.

Premium rods
If you can afford it, it of course does not hurt, but it will take years of developing gradual casting skills before you can tell the difference between a $100 Orvis Clearwater and a $1,000 Orvis Zero Gravity Helios.

On the other end, skip the $40 Walmart rod, so hard to cast that it will drive a beginner away.

Rod sections
In the old days one-piece rods were simply better. But technology has evolved. Two-piece rods are still offered, but they typically require a 5 ft case. This is quickly awkward to transport. In my experience, modern, quality four-piece rods are best, and they fit easily in a 3 ft case.
So-called "traveler" six-piece, or even eight-piece rods exist, but I have never felt the need for such a reduced foot print.

Reels
There is a mystique about $1,000 reels. This baffles me !!! When fly fishing the quasi-sole function of the reel is to hold the line. I have no experience salt-water fly fishing, so I may miss the point, but I have almost never really actually used the breaking function ("disk drag") on a fly reel. On a fly line, the flex of the rod absorbs the fighting that a typical bail cast reel disk drag absorbs. In fly fishing hands on the line control what happens, not hands on the reel.

Skip plastic, but a recognized brand machined (preferred) or cast aluminum reel will do just fine. I cannot really see the point of spending more than $250 on a fly reel, but maybe I am just missing the point.

Rod & reel kits
This is a good idea. This ensure you get a matched rod, reel, and line. The match addresses size and weight.

So what do I suggest as a first kit?

From the specifics you provide, Franco, I am drawing the following conclusions:
- the rod is for your wife, and I shall assume a less than sumo wrestler body and strength
- she is a complete beginner for whom ease of casting will be a critical advantage
- she is going to learn to cast on a small piece of water (1 acre pond) hence long distance is irrelevant
- you appear to be a man of means, so I shall assume more rods in the future if she likes it

I believe that roverandbrew provided the near perfect answer for a generic situation, this is exactly what I gave the kids, although I personally went 8.5 ft (but this is vastly "the same difference").

My kids first rod was a Orvis Clearwater (25 Year Warranty) 9' 5 weight. I feel they are a great value and perform well.

Clearwater® Fly Rod Outfit

Easily the best fly rod outfit you can buy for the money, the Clearwater series includes options for every angler.

www.orvis.com

However, in your wife's case, Franco, I am going to make the case that how Orvis describes the Clearwater 5-Weight 9 ft rod, is not a perfect match for her:

"The Clearwater 5-Weight 9' Fly Rod is a standard for western rivers and bigger eastern water. Not only does it have the length to reach out and control drifts and the power to reach far banks, but the line weight to handle big trout and light bass. Firing a big streamer up and across a big river and reaching out to mend the line and control the drift is right in this rod's wheelhouse. Throwing big attractors with droppers, or big hoppers in the early fall is the perfect task for this rod. If big water and big flies are called for, then the Clearwater 905-4 is the weapon of choice at a price that will keep a lot of travel money in your pocket."​

I would argue that cost savings is likely not your priority; that big water, big attractors, reach out, power, etc. are not your primary concern for a women learning how to cast on a 1 acre pond, and that therefore a lighter and more forgiving rod is probably more ideal.

My recommendation is therefore either:

"The Orvis Recon 4-Weight 8'6" 4-Piece is a trout rod with a versatile length and line weight that has the ability to place a dry fly deftly on the surface, fire a small streamer at a cut bank, or even handle a light nymph rig. If trout or even light bass and panfish are the target, the Recon 864-4 is an exceptional choice for versatility in a mid-price fly rod with premium performance attributes."​

or even better, if apparently unconventional:

"Looking for a do-it-all rod that’s light enough for light tasks but has plenty of backbone for bigger fish? Try the 3-wt. Orvis Superfine Graphite. Our 7'6" bread-and-butter small-stream rod handles everything from small brook trout in tiny creeks to browns in midsize rivers."​

​

Or go for a 4-wt 7'11" if you want a bit more reach/power.​

​

Admittedly, by the time she goes fly fishing steelheads on the Madison, browns on the Colorado, salmon on the Kenai, she will need something bigger, and you will be happy to oblige, but there is no rod easier to learn how to cast, than a slow action 3 weight graphite rod.

Sure, many see it as a specialized tool for small creeks, and it is that too, but in my experience getting quickly beginner adults to cast decently is the key to getting them hooked (pun fully intended)

I hope this was useful...

 

[HuronHunter375]

I got myself an orvis clearwater combo before I started grad school so I could fish the “Holy Waters” in Grayling Michigan. I still use it and dont see the need to replace it.

 

[roverandbrew]

Lessons learned (some conventional and some not) & suggestions based on 30 years of fly-fishing

As a way of introduction, I am no fly-fishing instructor, I only know what I know by learning it alone by experience, but I have enjoyed fly-fishing for 30 years, and I have found invaluable tips in the now numerous fly fishing videos on YouTube, especially those hosted by Orvis' Tom Rosenbauer, which have allowed me to correct an endless list of mistakes I was making.

So my first thought would be to watch the tutorial series in which Tom Rosenbauer covers anything and all things between choosing a first rod, to the most arcane fishing techniques.

Over the years I have accumulated 9 sets of rods & reels:

Orvis Recon II, 2 weight, Mid-Flex, 10' long​

Orvis Superfine Touch, 3 weight, Full Flex, 7'6" long​

Orvis Superfine Carbon, 3 weight, Full Flex, 6'6" long​

Orvis Zero Gravity Helios, 4 weight, Mid-Flex, 8'6" long​

Orvis Helios, 5 weight, Mid-Flex, 9' long​

Orvis Zero Gravity Helios, 5 weight, Mid-Flex, 8'6" long​

Orvis Clearwater, 5 weight, Mid Flex, 8'6" long​

Orvis Zero Gravity. 7 weight, Mid-Flex, 9' long​

Orvis Powerhouse Graphite. 8 weight, Full Flex, 8'6" long​

View attachment 725219

Being privileged to live in Arizona, a State that should be better known for trout fishing, I fly fish regularly "big water" such as the Colorado River at Lee's Ferry, "small water" streams in the White Mountains, "still water" lakes such as the 9,000 ft elevation 950 acre Big Lake in the White Mountains, and occasionally Alaska on the Russian River or Kenai, and I have caught Rainbow, Lake, Cutthroat, Gila, Apache, Brook, Brown, and Tiger trout, large and small.

View attachment 725221

View attachment 725222

View attachment 725223

So here is what I have learned along the way...

Rod "weight"
Relates to the "weight" of the line, not the weight of the rod.

Line "weight"
Has nothing to do with how heavy a fish you can catch on that line, but how heavy the "flies" you can cast (including streamers); how far you can cast; and in how much wind you can cast accurately.

You can catch a 6 lbs. trout on a "2 weight line" and a 2 oz trout on an "8 weight line".

You will not break a quality "2 weight rod" on a 6 lbs. trout.

Rod "action"
A "slow action" rod, also called "full flex" bends on its entire length. It is not great for long distance casts, but it allows very precise casting (landing the fly where you want), and it is extremely forgiving for beginners learning to cast.

A "fast action" rod, also called "tip flex" at the other end of the spectrum, bends only at the tip. It casts far when you know how to cast, but it is hard(er) to cast. It is a specialized tool.

A "medium action" rod, also called "mid flex" in the middle of the spectrum is a jack of all trades, and this is why it is typically recommended.

Rod length
I once believed that you needed a 6 ft rod on small streams, an 8 ft rod on rivers, a 10 ft rod on lakes, etc. and I went as far in the absurd - as I now realize - as to have both 6.5 ft and 7.5 ft 3 weight rods, as well as both 8.5 ft and 9 ft 5 weight rods. Yes a 9 ft rod under low brushes on a tiny stream would be a pain to maneuver, and yes a 10 ft rod will cast farther than a 6 ft rod on a lake, but unless you have half a dozen rods, the reality is that a 8.5 or 9 ft rod will do 99% of the jobs.

Rod weight and stiffness
Keep in mind that rod "line weight" and "rod action" impact rod actual weight and stiffness because the heavier the "line weight" is, the ticker and the heavier the rod must be.

Your arm will be sore casting all afternoon a 8 weight fast rod, while a 3 weight slow rod will be pure bliss. This is not something to neglect, especially for women, kids, and/or beginners.

Rod brands
Everyone has their favorite. I am obviously an Orvis guy. But it is just me. Orvis, St Croix, Temple Fork, Sage, etc. all make great rods, and all offer entry-level, advanced, and best-in-class premium collections. This being said, like in optics, there are a few brands that dominate and Orvis is clearly one of them...

Note: I will keep talking about Orvis, not because they are the only choice, but because I know them well.

Premium rods
If you can afford it, it of course does not hurt, but it will take years of developing gradual casting skills before you can tell the difference between a $100 Orvis Clearwater and a $1,000 Orvis Zero Gravity Helios.

On the other end, skip the $40 Walmart rod, so hard to cast that it will drive a beginner away.

Rod sections
In the old days one-piece rods were simply better. But technology has evolved. Two-piece rods are still offered, but they typically require a 5 ft case. This is quickly awkward to transport. In my experience, modern, quality four-piece rods are best, and they fit easily in a 3 ft case.
So-called "traveler" six-piece, or even eight-piece rods exist, but I have never felt the need for such a reduced foot print.

Reels
There is a mystique about $1,000 reels. This baffles me !!! When fly fishing the quasi-sole function of the reel is to hold the line. I have no experience salt-water fly fishing, so I may miss the point, but I have almost never really actually used the breaking function ("disk drag") on a fly reel. On a fly line, the flex of the rod absorbs the fighting that a typical bail cast reel disk drag absorbs. In fly fishing hands on the line control what happens, not hands on the reel.

Skip plastic, but a recognized brand machined (preferred) or cast aluminum reel will do just fine. I cannot really see the point of spending more than $250 on a fly reel, but maybe I am just missing the point.

Rod & reel kits
This is a good idea. This ensure you get a matched rod, reel, and line. The match addresses size and weight.

So what do I suggest as a first kit?

From the specifics you provide, Franco, I am drawing the following conclusions:
- the rod is for your wife, and I shall assume a less than sumo wrestler body and strength
- she is a complete beginner for whom ease of casting will be a critical advantage
- she is going to learn to cast on a small piece of water (1 acre pond) hence long distance is irrelevant
- you appear to be a man of means, so I shall assume more rods in the future if she likes it

I believe that roverandbrew provided the near perfect answer for a generic situation, this is exactly what I gave the kids, although I personally went 8.5 ft (but this is vastly "the same difference").



However, in your wife's case, Franco, I am going to make the case that how Orvis describes the Clearwater 5-Weight 9 ft rod, is not a perfect match for her:

"The Clearwater 5-Weight 9' Fly Rod is a standard for western rivers and bigger eastern water. Not only does it have the length to reach out and control drifts and the power to reach far banks, but the line weight to handle big trout and light bass. Firing a big streamer up and across a big river and reaching out to mend the line and control the drift is right in this rod's wheelhouse. Throwing big attractors with droppers, or big hoppers in the early fall is the perfect task for this rod. If big water and big flies are called for, then the Clearwater 905-4 is the weapon of choice at a price that will keep a lot of travel money in your pocket."​

I would argue that cost savings is likely not your priority; that big water, big attractors, reach out, power, etc. are not your primary concern for a women learning how to cast on a 1 acre pond, and that therefore a lighter and more forgiving rod is probably more ideal.

My recommendation is therefore either:

"The Orvis Recon 4-Weight 8'6" 4-Piece is a trout rod with a versatile length and line weight that has the ability to place a dry fly deftly on the surface, fire a small streamer at a cut bank, or even handle a light nymph rig. If trout or even light bass and panfish are the target, the Recon 864-4 is an exceptional choice for versatility in a mid-price fly rod with premium performance attributes."​

or even better, if apparently unconventional:

"Looking for a do-it-all rod that’s light enough for light tasks but has plenty of backbone for bigger fish? Try the 3-wt. Orvis Superfine Graphite. Our 7'6" bread-and-butter small-stream rod handles everything from small brook trout in tiny creeks to browns in midsize rivers."​

​

Or go for a 4-wt 7'11" if you want a bit more reach/power.​

​

Admittedly, by the time she goes fly fishing steelheads on the Madison, browns on the Colorado, salmon on the Kenai, she will need something bigger, and you will be happy to oblige, but there is no rod easier to learn how to cast, than a slow action 3 weight graphite rod.

Sure, many see it as a specialized tool for small creeks, and it is that too, but in my experience getting quickly beginner adults to cast decently is the key to getting them hooked (pun fully intended)

I hope this was useful...

I agree with your post in regards to what would be best suited. With my wife and daughter I know they will not fish as often as I do and went the route of 5 wt where they can reasonably fish for crappie to large trout. The recon is a great rod and my primary rod for freshwater and I run a 9wt helios for inshore salt. Colorado i mainly stuck with a 5wt. I guess is see a 5 wt as a 30-06 and a 9 wt as a 375 H&H.

 

[fourfive8]

I must say the Orvis Pro program generated a lot of low cost advertising and residual business

 

[One Day...]

I agree with your post in regards to what would be best suited. With my wife and daughter I know they will not fish as often as I do and went the route of 5 wt where they can reasonably fish for crappie to large trout. The recon is a great rod and my primary rod for freshwater and I run a 9wt helios for inshore salt. Colorado i mainly stuck with a 5wt. I guess is see a 5 wt as a 30-06 and a 9 wt as a 375 H&H.

Amen, amen, amen !!! As I told the kids, by the time you outgrow the Clearwater I will gift you an Helios. So far, my money is safe and 5 wt was also my do-it-all choice for them

5 wt is also my typical go to on Colorado River and San Juan River, local trout lakes, and a few giant brownies well-kept-secret creeks, with 7 wt only used in Alaska for Salmon, but you owe it to yourself to try a short 3 wt on a small West Virginia mountain stream. No the fish are not big, but the finess, delicateness, and overall feeling of freedom is incredible. Like sleeping naked (and not necessarily alone) in silk sheets after 4 months of sleeping kited and armed in a dirty sleeping bag. You know what I mean

Or come and try that with me in the White Mountains of Arizona

Hmmm, the 3 wt mountain streams fly fishing, I mean

 

[roverandbrew]

I am definitely game to head that way. Once I get back from my next job I might take the Defender on another cross country and fish / camp along the way.

 

[Franco]

Update:

Trout arrive the 25th, lessons for my wife have been scheduled. I have decided to give it a try as well; unfortunately my ankle will not be solid enough for at least another 6 weeks.

I did try one of my dad's flies on my spinning rod to see if I could entice one of the bass to bite. The only thing I hooked was my cigar. The good news - I didn't lose the fly.

 

[codofish]

All of the major manufacturers make really good rods at different price points. Don't get hung up on brand names and go with a 9 foot 5 weight. A 5 weight is perfect for general pond fishing and also for the size trout you are stocking. Also go with a floating line. Don't worry to much about store bought leaders as they are expensive and 4 lb mono will work well since farm raised trout and pond pan fish don't require a delicate presentation.

If you want to insure your wife catches trout cut up a light brown kitchen sponge into small pieces. Your trout are fed commercial feed pellets from the time they are born, starting with a powder when they are fry. The pellet color is always a light brown. Some people will consider the sponge trick to be cheating but really you are just "matching the hatch" for what farm raised trout eat.

If your pond is 40 feet deep beware of the cold, dead, unoxygenated water on the bottom. You most likely have a thermocline around 20 feet deep. Fish can't live below the thermocline and if you are not careful when you start your aeration you will cause a water turnover which can kill all of your fish. You want your aerators in the deepest part of the pond but only run it, or them, for 30 minutes the first day and double the amount of time each day thereafter until they are running 24 hours a day.

I know a little bit about fishing and fly fishing but I know a lot about pond management. It is a great idea to aerate. It will greatly increase the carrying capacity of your pond, maybe even doubling it.

 

[Franco]

All of the major manufacturers make really good rods at different price points. Don't get hung up on brand names and go with a 9 foot 5 weight. A 5 weight is perfect for general pond fishing and also for the size trout you are stocking. Also go with a floating line. Don't worry to much about store bought leaders as they are expensive and 4 lb mono will work well since farm raised trout and pond pan fish don't require a delicate presentation.

If you want to insure your wife catches trout cut up a light brown kitchen sponge into small pieces. Your trout are fed commercial feed pellets from the time they are born, starting with a powder when they are fry. The pellet color is always a light brown. Some people will consider the sponge trick to be cheating but really you are just "matching the hatch" for what farm raised trout eat.

If your pond is 40 feet deep beware of the cold, dead, unoxygenated water on the bottom. You most likely have a thermocline around 20 feet deep. Fish can't live below the thermocline and if you are not careful when you start your aeration you will cause a water turnover which can kill all of your fish. You want your aerators in the deepest part of the pond but only run it, or them, for 30 minutes the first day and double the amount of time each day thereafter until they are running 24 hours a day.

I know a little bit about fishing and fly fishing but I know a lot about pond management. It is a great idea to aerate. It will greatly increase the carrying capacity of your pond, maybe even doubling it.

Thank you.
How do you determine what size or how many aerators? (I'm assuming they come in different sizes)

 

[codofish]

Thank you.
How do you determine what size or how many aerators? (I'm assuming they come in different sizes)

Most likely one aerator with a manifold and two diffusers. The place you buy it from can most likely design the system for you.

 

[Ravensview]

https://www.thepondguy.com/category/pond-lake, this site may give you some good info, I used to order from them when I was working for various projects.

 

[LimbNoMo]

I suggest Fort Worth Fly Fishers as a resource for you.

Fort Worth Fly Fishers | Enthusiasm for fly fishing, fishable waters and the outdoors

fortworthflyfishers.org

 

[dlmac]

Until you need an 8 weight, a 10 weight, and a 7 weight 2 handed spey rod......and........

I think fly rods are like guns, can't have to many. One for each situation! But to learn on go cheaper and if you stay in it then spendddd the money. Just 2 cents

 

[rookhawk]

I think fly rods are like guns, can't have to many. One for each situation! But to learn on go cheaper and if you stay in it then spendddd the money. Just 2 cents

The next question is do you buy disposable, or appreciable tackle?

I bought only heritage quality tackle, although it can be had for reasonable money. My favorite beginner reel used by neophytes and masters alike is a vintage Orvis CFO made by Hardy of Alnwick. For rods, old fenwick glass or old Orvis cane is not that expensive but they hold their value.

Modern graphite? Most of it is worthless yard sale trash in about 3 years. Yes, even the $1200 one.

 

[fourfive8]

If I were to recommend a reel for a new fly angler for average fishing- panfish, 2-3 pound bass, 20 inch rainbows, etc., it would be either a Ross or Teton of 3 - 3 1/2” dia., suitable for lines/rods in the 3-7 weight range. Both are +/- $200 and made in the USA. The Ross Reel factory is not far up the road from here. Both, IMO, are much better than most other comparably priced and sized click&pawl reels, no matter the maker or origin.

 

[RedTag]

I spent several seasons as a fly fishing guide and a few years managing a fly shop years ago, so fair to say I know a thing or two about this. I will keep it simple. The vast majority of fishing gear is made for catching money and fisherman, not fish. I’ve tried everything from the cheapest plastic junk to the most expensive designer gear. The spendy rods can get your cast a little farther and the reels especially can make a difference for the big fish, but for the most part it’s for show especially for the small game. I used Okuma gear almost exclusively as a guide. If you talk to a lot of fishing guides you’ll probably find a consensus on this. Okuma fishing gear works and it’s inexpensive, which is great when handing to inexperienced people; lost and broken gear is part of the game. Okay enough about that, by now you know a 9 foot 5 weight with weight forward floating line is the way to get started.
Flies. I have literally hundreds but the go to patterns are a pretty short list. This will vary depending on your location but you are going to be catching stocked fish so you won’t have to work too hard to find what they’re biting on. If I had to choose one each dry fly, nymph and streamer, easy choice: renegade, bead head hares ear and Mickey Finn, they work almost anywhere and anytime. If you ever get a chance to go for Arctic Grayling, a very good fly is the red tag
Learn to tie your own leaders by joining monofilament lines from 10 down to 4 pounds in ~2’ sections with blood knots. The store bought tapered leaders are great but making your own is a skill to have not only to save money but to keep you on the water if something gets messed up. I tied all my own leaders as a guide. The little miniature bobbers (real fly fisherman call them strike indicators) are great for beginner anglers when using any fly that doesn’t float.

 

[Woolley Bugger]

I agree that you can’t go wrong with the Clearwater 5 Wt.

That being said, I get the sense you’re not terribly price sensitive. You will feel the difference with a higher end setup, so you might just go with one of their more premium setups, which is what you’re going to end up getting her anyway if she sticks with it. I don’t know how the Dallas store is, but I have the good fortune to frequently pass by the flagship in Manchester, VT, where I can try out various equipment on their lawn while discussing options with an experienced person. They have the ingenious trick of offering free local microbrew beers and having a tasting station for local whiskeys, all of which loosens financial inhibitions.

I would also keep an open mind about something other than 5 weight. For stocked trout on a pond, just about anything will work. But she will soon outgrow that and will want to do “real” fishing. I would keep that next trip in mind when choosing a setup.

For me, I fish mostly tiny NJ rivers with lots of overhangs and trees. So my go to is a Sage 7’6” 3 wt. it’s a joy in the hand and makes for effortless casting in tight quarters. I’m not familiar with the fishing scene in Texas, but I think my setup would probably be too light. Your local experts can steer you beyond the generic conventional wisdom of the 5Wt setup.

One final point. Fly line is expensive but it’s an integral part of the system, much more so than in conventional fishing. If I had to choose, I would take a cheap reel and fine line over the reverse. A good, well balanced line flies through your fingers and makes beautiful loops on your casts.