Finally picked up my Heym 416 Rigby

[mdwest]

Some seriously nice timber on that rifle… color me jealous!

 

[Green Chile]

That's a good question. I've done well with my 375 and 450/400. I got the 500NE thinking it would be more effective with elephants than the 450/400. Honestly, I bought the 416 because when I went to pick up the 500 I asked Chris what else came in the shipment that wasn't already sold and when he showed me a picture of the 416 - I said, "I'll take it".

How realistic is it to use the 416 in place of the 375? I really don't have much interest in plains game; I'm a leopard away from a Big 5/Dangerous 7, and after that I'll probably stick with croc, hippo, cape buffalo, and elephant.

So now, I've got a 300 win mag, a 375 H&H, a 416 Rigby, a 458 Lott, a 450/400NE, and a 500NE; I may have to take my wife and/or son with me on the next rip to Africa just to bring the extra guns and ammo.

Most of my Africa trips have a 375 or 416...and usually a 300 win mag. That really covers everything unless you want something small bore for the little stuff. The Rigby is a very capable ele rifle but so are the larger calibers you own. At some point, we buy it because we like it. You could cover everything with the 375 truthfully. I'm just missing the leopard also and in Moz, you have to use a 375 minimum.

 

[Franco]

At some point, we buy it because we like it.

Bryan,

I think you are spot on, I would add - because we like the sound of saying we own one. The reality is, I could have continued to hunt with that 375 and 450/400 and been just fine. And you're right about the small stuff, I say I'm not interested in plains game - but I wouldn't pass on a warthog, or a baboon.
Time will tell, I'll see if I even get comfortable shooting the 416.

 

[Franco]

Some seriously nice timber on that rifle… color me jealous!

Thanks Dave, come shoot it next time you are out this way.

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

S&B has one bad problem, after you use one, you will want more. Congrats again.

The 12+ I have would say you’re spot on with that statement. I’ve got a shelf of Leupolds and Swaros that have been replaced by S&B’s

 

[uplander01]

S & B is the top tier if you ask me. I have 5 of them and I move them from rifle to rifle like camera lenses depending on the application. They start to look a little beat up from scope ring marks with different types of mounts but I don't really care about that. They are a piece of equipment that you truly buy once and cry once and use for your lifetime. Fact is the Klassics and Zeniths aren't as much $ as a Swaro.

 

[Altitude sickness]

Congrats on another fine rifle.

Hopefully your beautiful rifles are not hidden away in a safe. But displayed on the wall. Or at least put on display while your home.

Do those high scope mounts fit your face dimensions? Or are they high for the bolt lift?

 

[Franco]

The 12+ I have would say you’re spot on with that statement. I’ve got a shelf of Leupolds and Swaros that have been replaced by S&B’s

S & B is the top tier if you ask me. I have 5 of them and I move them from rifle to rifle like camera lenses depending on the application. They start to look a little beat up from scope ring marks with different types of mounts but I don't really care about that. They are a piece of equipment that you truly buy once and cry once and use for your lifetime. Fact is the Klassics and Zeniths aren't as much $ as a Swaro.

I can see why you have more than one, the clarity is incredible. I have Kahles, Swarovski, Nightforce, and Zero Compromise scopes, looks like I may be in the market another S & B.

I do have a question: Unlike my other scopes which have scales in the reticle (MOA or MIL) and "dial up" capability, this scope has 3 heavy lines, 1 lighter line and a circle in the middle surrounding the crosshairs. The side and top knobs are for adjustment only. So, do I just pick a distance to zero and that's it?

 

[Franco]

Congrats on another fine rifle.

Hopefully your beautiful rifles are not hidden away in a safe. But displayed on the wall. Or at least put on display while your home.

Do those high scope mounts fit your face dimensions? Or are they high for the bolt lift?

Thank you.

They all live in a safe. We have discussed some manner of display, either in my office or the trophy room. I am originally from CA and only moved to Texas a year and a half ago; the concept of guns on display is new to me.

You and Mark Ouellette both noticed the rings. They are to accommodate the bolt lift, my 375 is the same. Mark and I spoke about this yesterday, if I rest my head higher - more in line with my jaw than with my cheek solidly on the stock, I line up with the scope. I prefer to rest more towards my cheek - so I have a cheek pad on the 375, I plan to do the same with the 416.

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

I can see why you have more than one, the clarity is incredible. I have Kahles, Swarovski, Nightforce, and Zero Compromise scopes, looks like I may be in the market another S & B.

I do have a question: Unlike my other scopes which have scales in the reticle (MOA or MIL) and "dial up" capability, this scope has 3 heavy lines, 1 lighter line and a circle in the middle surrounding the crosshairs. The side and top knobs are for adjustment only. So, do I just pick a distance to zero and that's it?

You have a capped turret not a dial turret. The likelihood of you ever needing to dial with a 4x and a 416 is lower than your odds of winning the powerball. That scope wasn’t designed to be dialed and is likely 20-40 years old well before the dialing and MOA/MIL reticles became popular outside of the military



Left side is your illumination setting. Right side is your windage (capped). What you’re describing sounds like their Flash Dot Reticle but it could be a couple others. Is this the reticle you have? If so it’s the FD9 and likely from pre 2000



Pick a distance (50 or 100yds) and zero it. At your house you can shoot other distances and determine if you need to hold 2” High/Low, 10” or 2’ given the shots.

 

[Franco]

You have a capped turret not a dial turret. The likelihood of you ever needing to dial with a 4x and a 416 is lower than your odds of winning the powerball. That scope wasn’t designed to be dialed and is likely 20-40 years old well before the dialing and MOA/MIL reticles became popular outside of the military

View attachment 731228

Left side is your illumination setting. Right side is your windage (capped). What you’re describing sounds like their Flash Dot Reticle but it could be a couple others. Is this the reticle you have? If so it’s the FD9 and likely from pre 2000

View attachment 731229

Pick a distance (50 or 100yds) and zero it. At your house you can shoot other distances and determine if you need to hold 2” High/Low, 10” or 2’ given the shots.

Yes, that's the reticle, and the left knob adjusts the illumination. I unscrewed the caps, there's 2 dials - one has a small slot. I'll probably just zero at 100 and like you said - shoot it and see what it does.

Doing a YouTube search for a tutorial on those dials.

Thank you

 

[Franco]

You have a capped turret not a dial turret. The likelihood of you ever needing to dial with a 4x and a 416 is lower than your odds of winning the powerball. That scope wasn’t designed to be dialed and is likely 20-40 years old well before the dialing and MOA/MIL reticles became popular outside of the military

View attachment 731228

Left side is your illumination setting. Right side is your windage (capped). What you’re describing sounds like their Flash Dot Reticle but it could be a couple others. Is this the reticle you have? If so it’s the FD9 and likely from pre 2000

View attachment 731229

Pick a distance (50 or 100yds) and zero it. At your house you can shoot other distances and determine if you need to hold 2” High/Low, 10” or 2’ given the shots.

Here's what's under the caps: