Thoughts on this 375 H&H?

My suggestion would be to buy the Mauser 12 @ghay had for sale here in the classifieds. It’s a great package
 
Thanks for the bump...The buyer won't be disappointed!
 
That’s funny. I can’t imagine shooting or hunting with a suppressor. Not in this lifetime. :cool:
Try shooting a rifle with one on. A game changer. Life is so much quieter.
 
Try shooting a rifle with one on. A game changer. Life is so much quieter.
Actually, I have used one on a safari in Botswana. Used the camp rifle. R8 Blaser in 30-06. It was ok, I suppose, but definitely lacking in style. The pictures were hideous. :cool:

Never noticed noise hunting, and if recreational shooting, I’ll have on muffs.



IMG_9837.png


There. Fixed it


IMG_9839.png
 
How are you getting quick follow up shots with iron sights? Pivot mounts?
All my rifles that go to Africa have some form of quick dismountable scope. I have told that leopard story of why several times in this forum. The Blaser R8, my most used rifle design, employs Blaser's double lever quick release. Most of my other rifles use the Talley system. The remainder are equipped with either EAW pivots or claw. All work exactly as advertised, release in seconds, and return to zero when remounted.

Below is an account of my recent hunt in Hungary and captures exactly why I don't care for a suppressor on anything but fairly specialized firearms or perhaps if I am in a stand where a surf rod is manageable.

 
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If you have Any suggestions on makes and models, id welcome that. Would like to keep it under $3k and closer to the $2k and under range if possible...
Ruger in 375 Ruger or one of their older safari guns,......or just get a new Win M70, absolute great options in that price point
 
Actually, I have used one on a safari in Botswana. Used the camp rifle. R8 Blaser in 30-06. It was ok, I suppose, but definitely lacking in style. The pictures were hideous. :cool:

Never noticed noise hunting, and if recreational shooting, I’ll have on muffs.



View attachment 724833

There. Fixed it


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At least it was an R8 so it was still of manageable length. The pictures from South Africa where eight inches of suppressor are screwed to the end of a 22" barrel or longer on a standard action are ridiculous.
 
At a quick glance Gunsinternational,...I would buy either one of these and never look back....

listing# 103329940, and 103018168

I'd probably buy the kimber and get a new set of rings....its built right for hard use, the express sight picture on that gun would be great.
 
All my rifles that go to Africa have some form of quick dismountable scope. I have told that leopard story of why several times in this forum. The Blaser R8, my most used rifle design, employs Blaser's double lever quick release. Most of my other rifles use the Talley system. The remainder are equipped with either EAW pivots or claw. All work exactly as advertised, release in seconds, and return to zero when remounted.

Below is an account of my recent hunt in Hungary and captures exactly why I don't care for a suppressor on anything but fairly specialized firearms or perhaps if I am in a stand where a surf rod is manageable.

Any ideas which pivot or quick disconnects work best on Mod 70s?
 
Here is a listing on gunbroker,...M70 NEW, in 375. Buy yourself a set of Talley Bases and rings and your off to the races:

1136562248
 
For me, I am not a collector but a user of rifles. I have a Balco Model 70, moved the open sights back a small amount to accomodate threads and a hidden/invisible thread protector. I use the suppressor on all practice shooting and remove it for hunting. Works very well.

I am about to speak sacriledge - the new Model 70's IMO are better than the pre-64's. More reliable, less risky to shoot being as how the newest of the pre-64's is now over 60 years old. Better metal, better machinining. I don't prefer the pre-64's at all.
 
Additionally for a 5/8-24 thread, which is the standard now for up to .375, you need a barrel dia. of about .750, to give the suppresser the proper shoulder to mount against. Ruger now makes the Hawkeye Hunter with flair at the threading area to accommodate this.
Some gunsmiths will build up the threading area on sporter profile barrels to achieve a proper shoulder.

Why is the shoulder important?
Some threading process leaves a bit of a radius where the threads end at the barrel. This can cause an alignment issue, which results in a baffle strike.
The .750 dia barrel gives enough of a squared up shoulder to align the supressor.

Beware of the guy who will thread a .625 barrel to the 5/8-24 thread and call it good.
 
this is a military 98 action, original is standard length ( cut-out for loading strips on the left). It will have major modifications/lengthening of the action to fit a 375H&H, it was made for 8x57IS. Whether this is any good depends on the metallurgic skills of the gunsmith/welder. Also the action metal then needs to be quenched and tempered after welding.
This may or may not have been done well, impossible to judge from remote.
Buyer beware
I think there are better options for a 375 nowadays.
No welding is necessary to convert a standard action 98 Mauser to a 375 H&H. Some metal is trimmed from the locking ring (but not enough to compromise the strength of action), the bolt face is opened (cutting with a lathe), magazine box modified (no strength compromised because metal is not heat treated), rails and ramp modified (cutting into them only if done correctly, no welding). Even if the loading slot for stripper clip was welded shut and machined smooth, the rear ring does not strengthen the action so no concerns about losing hardness.
 
All that being said, converting a standard 98 Mauser to 375 H&H is something of an art form. I would ask to see videos of the gun loading and cycling. I built a 404 on standard Mauser so I do have some idea of the complexity involved. It turned it great but was a challenge.

Sticking a barrel booger on a classic 98 Mauser is ... well ... blasphemous.
20240420_112851_resized_6.jpg
 
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Any ideas which pivot or quick disconnects work best on Mod 70s?
EAW’s are hands down the best, but Talley makes a much more affordable and good quality QD system. Warne and Leupold also have their versions.

I’ve used them all but EAW’s have become my favorite, followed by Talley’s, and Warnes for Pic Style bases
 
Got another option that’s local…Ruger M77 MK 2…good bad or uglies with this??

 
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Yeah the more I’m digging into this, I may just go classic and find a Mod70 or CZ 550
You’re on the right track here. The custom sporter jobs on old military rifles are very hit or miss. You may get lucky and score the best rifle you’ve ever had for the price, or you may just end up getting to fix someone else’s mistakes. It takes some experience with looking at these and absolutely in person inspections to know.
I would trust the gun sellers at Walmart more than those at Cabelas…
As for the newest “innovative” designs, they bring nothing to the table in my opinion, sacrificing quality and tradition for cheapness, while advertising that cheapness as utility.
 
Haha what Caliber you line

Haha what Caliber you like!?

It's my official job to take the piss out of 375 and also blaser rifles especially the unmentionable 8 thing....but as much as it pains me .... :X3: ...the 375 is a good calibre...especially if you are working your way up.....my equivalent is the 416 rigby...the only 416...;)...must confess I also do like my 500 jeffery
 

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