Ruger RSM Recoil System

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I've recently purchased Ruger RSM 375 H&H; purchased it but have not physically seen the thing as yet; an uninteresting story that I won't get into.

It is currently with the gunsmith that I use and in our discussions the seemingly convoluted recoil system was brought up. Frankly I've never seen nor heard of such a contraption. I had bought pillars specifically designed for a M77 MKII, they will not work. Evidently, for some unknown reason (at least to me), Ruger completely changed the underside of the MKII receiver removing the integral recoil lug leaving just a "tit" for the 60-degree front action screw. They then moved a big chunk of metal up the barrel and secure the whole mess with a screw through the forend, lug and into the barrel.

On top of that, the "lug" appears to be pinned to a flat plate that extends back to receiver and loops around the aforementioned ""tit". None of that is secured in any way.

My opinion is that this is a complete mess. Apparently it works because these rifles are purported to be quite accurate but really is this Rube Goldberg necessary?

I would appreciate comments, especially from anyone who has successfully modified their RSM to something more understandable.

Orig Recoil System 1.jpg
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Is there something wrong with the system? I owned a Ruger RSM .375, it was one of the most accurate hunting rifles that I have shot. I got rid of mine, not because of anything wrong with the recoil lug or bedding, some other details weren't quite right for me like the short bolt handle. But I'd suggest shooting yours before you worry about the bedding & coil lug. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is a quote that comes to mind.
 
There is nothing wrong with a RSM recoil system on its face. I have owned six RSMs and still own and shoot two. It just happens to work different than most rifles.
 
There is nothing wrong with a RSM recoil system on its face. I have owned six RSMs and still own and shoot two. It just happens to work different than most rifles.
Maybe it was the surprise more than anything else, I've never saw anything lIke that before. Of course you are correct, I should wait to see how it shoots before passing judgement.

Sure is strange and overly complicated. All I have now are pictures to go by and I've been trying to trace all the linkages; mostly scratching my head.

Thanks for your comments.
 
Is there something wrong with the system? I owned a Ruger RSM .375, it was one of the most accurate hunting rifles that I have shot. I got rid of mine, not because of anything wrong with the recoil lug or bedding, some other details weren't quite right for me like the short bolt handle. But I'd suggest shooting yours before you worry about the bedding & coil lug. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is a quote that comes to mind.
You're right of course, I'm jumping the gun a bit. Thanks for your comments.
 
I happened upon this example of bedding a RSM just yesterday, it's only 3-months old. This was posted on a forum of which I am not a member so unable to directly ask questions but I attached some of the images here. It looks like the bedding job captures (glues) the plate and buries the recoil lug; interesting.

Aside from the general opinion here of just leaving it alone I'm a bit perplexed as to why they kept the plate at all since it seemingly will no longer has a function. As I understand it the plate is used to "draw" the lug back hard against the stock. burying it would negate that capability so why keep it.

Anyway, I found this bedding installation interesting.

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I just recently picked up my 375 RSM from the gunsmith. He did really a fine job although there was a lot of grousing about the difficulties of working on the this rifle compares to M70 or a "true" Mauser. I took it to the range and it shot very well. My problem with it is the same as all others who have handled a 375 RSM, it's too damned muzzle heavy and generally too damned heavy overall.

This got me to thinking of how to reduce the weight some. the obvious place is the under barrel rib. I had my rifle pillar bedded so there is a hard stop on the 60-degree front action screw. It seems to me that this serves as a sort of recoil lug. I also had a second recoil cross bolt installed plus the barrel is "tied down" by a screw that passes through the stock into the under barrel rib. The actual recoil lug contraption is strange indeed as anyone familiar with the setup knows; it sort of floats but not really since the recoil lug is bolted to the stock not the barrel.

Here's what I'm thinking. get rid of the existing recoil lug contraption. Fashion a new recoil lug and dovetail it to the under barrel rib. It shouldn't need to be overly large because of the pillar bedding, second cross bolt and the barrel bolt. At this point there wouldn't be a need for the under barrel rib behind the new recoil lug so that could be milled off from receiver to lug.

The barrel would still be very stiff because it is huge and there is an integral 1/4 rib on top and the mods would be invisible unless disassembled. As far as accuracy is concerned this rifle was never free floated so I can't see how accuracy would be affected.

Of course I have no idea how much weight would be saved but it would be something.

So, I'm looking for comments, even are you crazy type comments.
 
You will possibly save the weight of 2-3 cartridges...
Maybe gen 3 is lighter due to barrel?
 
Mine is a Gen-3
If the recoil system continues to cause you a headache, I am pretty sure you can sell the RSM fairly quick then find you a rifle with a more standard type recoil system. RSMs don't last very long for sell unless they are over priced. And that does happen on this forum fairly often in my opinion. Just a thought.
 
I just recently picked up my 375 RSM from the gunsmith. He did really a fine job although there was a lot of grousing about the difficulties of working on the this rifle compares to M70 or a "true" Mauser. I took it to the range and it shot very well. My problem with it is the same as all others who have handled a 375 RSM, it's too damned muzzle heavy and generally too damned heavy overall.

This got me to thinking of how to reduce the weight some. the obvious place is the under barrel rib. I had my rifle pillar bedded so there is a hard stop on the 60-degree front action screw. It seems to me that this serves as a sort of recoil lug. I also had a second recoil cross bolt installed plus the barrel is "tied down" by a screw that passes through the stock into the under barrel rib. The actual recoil lug contraption is strange indeed as anyone familiar with the setup knows; it sort of floats but not really since the recoil lug is bolted to the stock not the barrel.

Here's what I'm thinking. get rid of the existing recoil lug contraption. Fashion a new recoil lug and dovetail it to the under barrel rib. It shouldn't need to be overly large because of the pillar bedding, second cross bolt and the barrel bolt. At this point there wouldn't be a need for the under barrel rib behind the new recoil lug so that could be milled off from receiver to lug.

The barrel would still be very stiff because it is huge and there is an integral 1/4 rib on top and the mods would be invisible unless disassembled. As far as accuracy is concerned this rifle was never free floated so I can't see how accuracy would be affected.

Of course I have no idea how much weight would be saved but it would be something.

So, I'm looking for comments, even are you crazy type comments.
You would save more weight by shortening the barrel a couple inches; with a lot more ease and a lot lower cost. Depending on your barrel profile, it would be 3-4oz/inch.
 
If the recoil system continues to cause you a headache, I am pretty sure you can sell the RSM fairly quick then find you a rifle with a more standard type recoil system. RSMs don't last very long for sell unless they are over priced. And that does happen on this forum fairly often in my opinion. Just a thought.
True, it really bothers me, not so much as I'm looking to dump the rifle. My Ruger No 1 .500 weighs as much so I'm used to that, I just find it as others have too heavy for caliber. It does shoot very well.
 
I "think" the underlug is machined as an integral part of the barrel to increase stiffness and give longer bedding base. The rib, I think, is silver-soldered on. Sure, they aren't "real Mausers" but W B Ruger's system works; I've yet to hear of one that isn't accurate. If you wish to lose some weight, look at barrel fluting, and possibly reshaping the stock...
 
That's a bit too severe don't you think?
Not as severe as re-milling the underside rib, building a lug and dovetailing what's left of the rib to hold it. That would be considerable work, with a questionable result; either in weight-saving or functionality. Depending on the current length of the barrel, cutting a bit off the end won't impact velocity significantly and some would argue, makes it a bit handier in thick brush. With a measurable weight and balance savings.
 
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The Ruger quarter rib was advertised being machined as one piece with the barrel.
You could pretty much remove the entire btm rib below the barrel (except for where it bolts through stock) as mentioned. Leave a good lug where it bolts through stock and glass bed everything. Then below the barrel it would be no different than say a M70. Extreme, but may fulfill your purpose.
Another extreme measure would be having the barrel OD turned down starting somewhere beyond the end of the quarter rib all the way to end of barrel. Might not look as funny as you think. Many Rigby & Mauser rifle barrel OD’s drop down abruptly somewhere before the forend.
I have a gen3 RSM 458 Lott that has been pillar, & fully glass bedded w/ 21.75” barrel. That gun shoots better & has a smoother action than most of my other DG rifles 3x the cost. I will say (IMO) mine doesn’t carry a lot of heft in the stock. At least nothing like the thickness of my factory CZ550’s.
 
I "think" the underlug is machined as an integral part of the barrel to increase stiffness and give longer bedding base. The rib, I think, is silver-soldered on. Sure, they aren't "real Mausers" but W B Ruger's system works; I've yet to hear of one that isn't accurate. If you wish to lose some weight, look at barrel fluting, and possibly reshaping the stock...
The rib on both top and bottom of the barrel are a machined intragal part of the barrel, no soldering. I have already had the stock reshaped so nothing more to do there.

Yes, the system Ruger used does indeed work in the sense that the rifle shoots quite well. The question is if all this stuff really necessary especially after the work I've already had done; my guess is no.

Maybe I'll just take out that recoil lug, shoot it, and see if anything changes.
 
The Ruger quarter rib was advertised being machined as one piece with the barrel.
You could pretty much remove the entire btm rib below the barrel (except for where it bolts through stock) as mentioned. Leave a good lug where it bolts through stock and glass bed everything. Then below the barrel it would be no different than say a M70. Extreme, but may fulfill your purpose.
Another extreme measure would be having the barrel OD turned down starting somewhere beyond the end of the quarter rib all the way to end of barrel. Might not look as funny as you think. Many Rigby & Mauser rifle barrel OD’s drop down abruptly somewhere before the forend.
I have a gen3 RSM 458 Lott that has been pillar, & fully glass bedded w/ 21.75” barrel. That gun shoots better & has a smoother action than most of my other DG rifles 3x the cost. I will say (IMO) mine doesn’t carry a lot of heft in the stock. At least nothing like the thickness of my factory CZ550’s.
Exactly what I was thinking.
 
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Not as severe as re-milling the underside rib, building a lug and dovetailing what's left of the rib to hold it. That would be considerable work, with a questionable result; either in weight-saving or functionality. Depending on the current length of the barrel, cutting a bit off the end won't impact velocity significantly and some would argue, makes it a bit handier in thick brush. With a measurable weight and balance savings.
My barrel is 23", short enough. Cutting off 2" of barrel would reduce velocity by about 40fps so you are right, not a huge amount.

One of my goals when embarking on this project was to retain the profile of the RSM, cutting off 2" would not adhere to that goal.

A big question is just how much weight would be saved and would it be noticable, I just don't have an answered to that.
 
I have not seen where a RSM in any caliber......416 or Lott included that has had a recoil related stock failure. Perhaps there is some genius in the design that I (we) are unable to see. It looks strange, I agree. Anyone heard of this gun failing from recoil and needing bedding/bolts etc. ?.........FWB
 

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