I have a lot of .404 components and love the round. Also like the .458 Lott. Have a couple Lotts and one .404. May just keep the .416 as is but will likely just stay in the safe if I don’t have it rechambered.It won't be only matching the rifling; what chambers are involved; from, and to? Aren't 404 components (cases, bullets) in short supply? Far better to have the barrel pulled and set aside, then a new one machined and fitted. Much more to the story ...
I’m with you. Dan was a nice guy but 2 years later and my .318 WR was cut too short and my 300 RUM to .404 Jeff didn’t have the sights and barrel band put on and it would not feed. I think he is closed now.I feel your pain, I struggled to find a smith that had the equipment to rebore; and then the reboring process didn’t turn out and screwed the factory barrel.
Then it took 2 years to get the parts back after a 6 month promise.
Do NOT use Classic Barrel & Action of Prescott Arizona.
Krish is 100% correct, in my case the reboring quill that the cutting fluid is pumped through hit a hard spot which I was told mostly because too much nickel in the steel.More over no matter how well the barrels are made they do get sir pockets in them. That is whas t shatters them while rehboring. That is why the smiths don't guarantee.
I think a re-barrel is the way to go. From an engineering stand point, reboring is always sticky. You are removing material and the barrel can(and will probably) have stresses internally. So your barrel can have slight bends or a tendency to walk groups after rebore. Off the shelf barrels tend to have the junk barrels dumped during processing so you are more likely to get a good barrel. And lets be honest, collectors value goes out the window if you do any mods- if that was ever a consideration.Thanks to all. I will scratch the rebore-rechamber idea!