quick release mount for FN Mauser 98

ftothfadd

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Dear All,

I have recently acquired a 9.3x62 FN mauser that will need a new stock but more imminently also need a quick detach mount. Can you please point me for some reasonable quality QD mount that would not cost more than the complete rifle? I will also need 30 mm rings to go with it.
Thank you, Ferenc
 
Talley. Call them. Very helpful on the phone and will make sure you get the correct base and rings of the correct height.
 
I have a unique setup that has proven ideal. My 404 is built on a Czech military 98 Mauser with the stripper clip "hump". It was already tapped for 3-hole 1-piece base. I switched to thicker 30mm scope and then found an extra low old Weaver 1-piece base that accepted my low Warne QD rings ... after a bit of modification. Weaver base was made for Weaver rings with thin round locking braces/screws. Warne rings have square locking braces. I rounded the edges of the braces with Dremel tool grinder so the rings lock snuggly onto the base with no possible movement. The scope sits low enough to acquire full sight view instantly when the gun is mounted, with bolt handle just clearing the zoom ring by a paper's thickness. When scope is removed the iron sights also acquire instantly. Ideal!
20240420_112851_resized_6.jpg

My levers are on the right side. They do not interfere with loading. Just as well have all obstructions on the same side so nothing to get caught in clothing when the rifle is slung.
 
Thank you for your help. Ideally I would like to have a two piece base.
 
An interesting option to mention is the Griffin & Howe side mount. This system allows use of optic and open/aperture sights. I’ve used the G&H Side Mount since the 1980’s on a Browning Safari Grade chambered .338 Winchester.

 
Thank you for your help. Ideally I would like to have a two piece base.
Is your rifle tapped for two-piece base ( = 4 holes)? Does it have the stripper clip hump or ground down flat? 2-piece are somewhat more asthetic, I guess. But 1-piece are more solid and "foolproof." The rings will always line up without lapping, shimming, etc. My base also allowed for very low scope mount which is important for thicker 30mm tube.
 
yes, the receiver has 4 holes two fore and two aft. It is a commercial action so no bump for a stripper clip.
 
I put Talleys on my FN built Husqvarna 640, 9.3x62–they’re terrific. As noted levers on the right side.

IMG_0477-X2.jpg
 
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What scope are you planning to mount? The problem I encountered when I transitioned to detachable rings and optional iron sights on my Springfield 03A3 was my 3-9x Nikon had a short length tube between the ocular and objective bells. This required an extended ring forward to accommodate the short tube. Unfortunately, no one makes extended QD rings. So I had to fit the rifle with a one-piece base (a semi-rail) with multiple slots for ring braces. Then I could position the rings pretty much wherever needed for proper eye relief. And proper eye relief is essential for immediate acquisition of target when gun is mounted ... which is essential for hitting moving targets ... especially angry 3/4 ton animals incoming at 35 mph. Of course, my Springfield 30-06 is not dangerous game equipment but it has shot quite a few animals on the fly.
16 November 2019.JPG
2019-08-24 gemsbuck.jpg
 
Great pics. I will use a 2.5-10 x42 steiner scope that has fortunately ample mounting space.
 
Great pics. I will use a 2.5-10 x42 steiner scope that has fortunately ample mounting space.
Great. There was another problem with the Springfield. Dad tapped the receiver back in 1962 at the fab shop in the hydro dam where he worked. Springfield bases only have one screw for the rear (into dovetail for military rear sight). I'm not sure there is a standard location for the forward two screws. I always knew he didn't get them quite lined up with the rear base but I took care of this with a shim. But when the rail arrived, the front two screw holes in it didn't line up with what was tapped in the receiver. Not even close. So I had three options: 1) retap holes in the locking ring 2) move the holes in the rail 3) toss the scope for something with a longer tube. Option three made the most sense but I really like that scope. Option one was totally out. Four holes in the ring wasn't going to cut it. Option two had problems because one of the new holes in the rail would be too close to an existing hole. It would be useless or worse than useless ( = weaken the rail). So I only drilled one new hole in the rail and it is held on the rifle with just two screws. The strength of one piece rail and dovetail at the rear screw provide enough support for a 30-06 rifle.
 

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