Practical Reloading

[roverandbrew]

I have just taken up reloading and am primarily focused on 7x57, 30-06, and 375 H&H. My decision to reload is based off not being able to find a reliable supply of factory rounds. The local Cabelas, Bass Pro, and Sportsman's Warehouse have had slim pickings recently.

I have purchased the RCBS Rockchucker Supreme Kit along with the Hornady, Swift, Lyman and Nosler reloading books. After a bunch of book and web reading I have come to the conclusion there are many rabbit holes in this hobby that have very little real world application. Human error in field conditions is generally much great than the accuracy of ammunition they are shooting at reasonable ranges. The rounds I am attempting to produce are for hunting and recreationally shooting. No Match.

Practically speaking if I develop loads with a margin of safety in accordance with the manual matching powder type / weight to bullet does the brand of brass or primer have that significant of an impact on anything? By "anything" I quantify that as an effective hunting round for use under 300 yards.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Some brass is thicker than others, making less space for powder. Always start low and work up. I never load to max, I haven’t found the need.

 

[leslie hetrick]

been loading since 1958, never saved any money only shot alot more for my hard earned money. my reloads let me shoot older no longer produced ammo and tho most of the time i could beat factory ammo accurcy it was not the case with with all reloads.

 

[roverandbrew]

I appreciate the information. I am starting with Hornady and PPU brass. I plan to shoot a bit next week to see how things work out with a load of 7x57.

My first rounds built are for a CZ 550 7x57:
Powder: H4350. 46 Grains
Bullet: 139 GR BTSP Hornady Interlok
Primer: CCI BR-2
Brass: Un-Fired Hornady 275 Rigby

I would love to find a local reloading class in Colorado Springs to minimize the number of initial errors made. Web videos are a good start but in person would be easier.

 

[Longwalker]

You have purchased good equipment and good manuals, a great start.
Here is what I have learned that makes my reloading more "practical" and less ... obsessive attention to detail.

Cartridge cases may be sorted by brand, and that's a good idea. Case capacity varying by brand actually does matter. However cases that weigh almost the same will have almost the same internal capacity and will produce very similar pressure on firing the same powder charge and bullet. If for instance Winchester and Remington cases match within 2-4 grains average weight, you may use them interchangeably. Federal cases are often heavier, as are some European cases like RWS. Group cases accordingly.
Lots of reloaders talk about seating bullets a certain distance off the rifling lands, but the practise is quite unimportant for the type of shooting you are doing. Seat the bullet so that the case mouth is at the cannelure or seat to the max. cartridge over all length in your manual. Check to see that it feeds though your magazine and doesn't hit the lands when chambering a round. You will have serviceable ammunition. If you are chasing the ultimate in tiny groups, seating depth matters.
Many, if not most reloaders obsess about weighing the powder charge in each case that they load. That is a good example of false precision. Powder charges for hunting and casual shooting ammunition can vary by up to 0.5 grain with no noticeable effect on group size or accuracy or effectiveness in the field. I weigh every powder charge when working up to "maximum" loads or trying to find an accurate load for my rifles, but when I determine a good load I throw 9/10 of my powder charges from a volumetric measure. I check every tenth one, and consistent technique is important, but getting every cartridge to the same 1/10 of a grain of powder is just silly. It doesn't really matter.
Within reason, the brand or type of primer doesn't matter, but switching from a maximum pressure load developed with a "mild" primer to a very hot primer like the Federal 215 could push pressures into unsafe levels. With a moderate load, and extruded powder I have never noticed any significant difference in switching primers.

 

[roverandbrew]

You have purchased good equipment and good manuals, a great start.
Here is what I have learned that makes my reloading more "practical" and less ... obsessive attention to detail.

Cartridge cases may be sorted by brand, and that's a good idea. Case capacity varying by brand actually does matter. However cases that weigh almost the same will have almost the same internal capacity and will produce very similar pressure on firing the same powder charge and bullet. If for instance Winchester and Remington cases match within 2-4 grains average weight, you may use them interchangeably. Federal cases are often heavier, as are some European cases like RWS. Group cases accordingly.
Lots of reloaders talk about seating bullets a certain distance off the rifling lands, but the practise is quite unimportant for the type of shooting you are doing. Seat the bullet so that the case mouth is at the cannelure or seat to the max. cartridge over all length in your manual. Check to see that it feeds though your magazine and doesn't hit the lands when chambering a round. You will have serviceable ammunition. If you are chasing the ultimate in tiny groups, seating depth matters.
Many, if not most reloads obsess about weighing the powder charge in each case that they load. That is a good example of false precision. Powder charges for hunting and casual shooting ammunition can vary by up to 0.5 grain with no noticeable effect on group size or accuracy or effectiveness in the field. I weigh every powder charge when working up to "maximum" loads or trying to find an accurate load for my rifles, but when I determine a good load I throw 9/10 of my powder charges from a volumetric measure. I check every tenth one, and consistent technique is important, but getting every cartridge to the same 1/10 of a grain of powder is just silly. It doesn't really matter.

I really appreciate this. This is the type of practical advice I was looking for.

 

[Newboomer]

Size your new brass. A lot of it may have little dents and out of round mouths from shipping and handling. I've found a load that is about midrange in the manual is plenty good for hunting. You don't have to worry about case capacity and if you throw within 0.2 grains it won't make one iota of difference. I seat to what the manual says but I also chamber check the first few rounds to make sure all is well.

 

[Shootist43]

Roverandbrew, do yourself a favor and purchase Nathan Foster's book "The Practical Guide to Reloading." It is available from his website. Believe me, this book contains a wealth of information. I've been reloading for close to 40 years and wished it would have been available 36 years ago.

 

[JimP]

One thing that I have found that works is to decided on a velocity that I want my bullet to exit the barrel at and then work towards that end. If I start seeing pressure signs with the powder that I am working with I will look to see if there is another powder that will get me there without it being the maximum charge for that cartridge. I have also found that the top velocity is usually not the most accurate as far as punching holes into paper.

Also as you have mentioned you plan on using these loads for hunting so there is no need to find a load that will punch quarter inch holes at 100 yards. Find a load that you are happy with and go with it.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

A good way to decide your velocity number is to run factory ammo of the same weight over the cron0. Factory loads always seem to 100 FPS slower than their advertised velocities in my rifles.

 

[James Adamson]

My "practice" ammo is made up of mixed brass, cheapest primers I can find (murom just now) and cheap PPU bullets. They are thrown together compared to my "good" ammo but are still plenty accurate for hunting out to 300 yards.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

A good way to decide your velocity number is to run factory ammo of the same weight over the cron0. Factory loads always seem to 100 FPS slower than their advertised velocities in my rifles.

@Wyatt Smith
Young Mr Smith if you run 7x57 loads over a chronograph that were made in the USA you will be sorely disappointed as they load to anemic levels. The same with the good ol' ought six.
Using H4350 it is no problem to get 3,000fps out of the 06 with a 150 grain bullet.
I get 2,900fps out of a 308 with a 150 accubond and 2,800 with a 168 match king. So surely the 06 can better that nowdays.
Bob

 

[Dee S]

Sadly, in today's world, I've found that not only the factory ammo isles are bare, but also the reloading isles. No powder, primers, or the more common size bullets.

 

[JimP]

Sadly, in today's world, I've found that not only the factory ammo isles are bare, but also the reloading isles. No powder, primers, or the more common size bullets.

A number of years ago when a liberal was voted into the Presidency I learned the hard way to buy in bulk once I knew what I wanted. The only time that I purchase powder in 1 lb cans is when I am loading for someone else. Other than that I buy it by the jug. Primers are purchased 1000-10,000 at a time depending on what it is I am buying them for. Rifles I'll usually get by with 1000 for a wile but pistol primers get bought in the 10,000. The same with bullets that I like. Pistol bullets are purchased in boxes of 500, if I am loading jacketed bullets I'll try and purchase 1,000 at a time. Rifle bullets are the same as with jacketed pistol bullets 1000 at a time.

But then I have been loading for long enough the I know what I want to shoot and don't have to experiment any to find loads. I can get a little bit expensive picking things up at one time but I try to get what I want when stores are having sales or I have coupons to use. It is also like 22 lr rounds and when they all disappeared around 11 years ago. I had enough to get me through the tight spot and as soon as I saw a store having a sale on them with free shipping I picked up 10,000 rounds.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

I appreciate the information. I am starting with Hornady and PPU brass. I plan to shoot a bit next week to see how things work out with a load of 7x57.

My first rounds built are for a CZ 550 7x57:
Powder: H4350. 46 Grains
Bullet: 139 GR BTSP Hornady Interlok
Primer: CCI BR-2
Brass: Un-Fired Hornady 275 Rigby

I would love to find a local reloading class in Colorado Springs to minimize the number of initial errors made. Web videos are a good start but in person would be easier.

@roverandbrew
Your load of 46 grains of H4350 is very mild and would only be doing a bit over 2,500 fps @44,000 CUP
You could safely go to 50 grains for 2,800 fps and 49,350 cup.
Work up in 1 grain increment to determine your safe working load.
Some people say you can mix brass from different manufacturers but if you do you can and WILL run into problems with accuracy and pressure. I know I tried it as an experiment. Velocities all over the place and some pressure signs in different cases.
BE SAFE ALWAYS use cases from the same manufacturer. Even if you change lots with the same manufacturer work your loads back up to where you were if safe.

A lot of people advocate the use of loading blocks. These are the brain of my life and I feel they are unsafe.

I use the two container method.
Start with 2 empty containers. Place your brass in one and after each process you place in the empty.
e.g. out of full container resize and place in the empty container.
Do the same with priming cases.
When it comes to powder charging, place the powder in the case then immediately seat the bullet.

That way you can't knock over a tray of charged cases and lose all your powder.
You know your case has powder in it.
Saves double handle.
These are just my thoughts after over 40 years of reloading.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

My "practice" ammo is made up of mixed brass, cheapest primers I can find (murom just now) and cheap PPU bullets. They are thrown together compared to my "good" ammo but are still plenty accurate for hunting out to 300 yards.

@James Adamson
You are a very lucky vegemite that you haven't had a problem. I've personally seen actions lock up cases separate and targets that look more like a shotgun pattern by the same practice. The people were using max loads in mixed cases with mixed bullets of the same weight.
It may be alright with minimum loads but I wouldn't push the envelope.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Sadly, in today's world, I've found that not only the factory ammo isles are bare, but also the reloading isles. No powder, primers, or the more common size bullets.

@Dee S
We have a similar problem but some calibers like 25,35, 338 are a bit easier because of the lack of popularity. I can walk into my gun shop and by 25 cal bullets but try and find 243,270 or 308 projectiles that's a different story that's a are some but they are disappearing fast.
Bob

 

[Hogpatrol]

You are off to a good start with good equipment and buying manuals. Of the four you have, I like the Lyman the best. I don't know much about the 7x57 except that it's a good hunting round and a famous African hunter really put it to the test hunting elephants. The question is how far down the rabbit hole do you want to go? For general medium to large size game hunting, as Longwalker posted, it's not that far. On the other hand, if prairie dogs, crows and other small varmints are on the menu, that rabbit hole is going to get deep, real deep as the distances increase. The key to good loads is consistency. Using components from the same lot will save you a lot of tail chasing. In other words, buy your components in large enough quantities to minimize variation. Finally, keep good records and when making changes, only make one at a time. Good luck with your rifle. CZ makes a good product.

 

[Ridgewalker]

Roverandbrew, you’ve got some good shooting ranges in Colorado Springs. You might check them for reloading groups/classes.
Best of luck! Once you get rolling your own, you start learning quickly.

 

[Shootist43]

Roverandbrew, I see that I forgot to give you the link to Nathan Foster's website where you can purchase the book I mentioned. It is https://www.ballisticstudies.com/

BTW check out the "Knowledgebase" for calibers you are interested in.