Penetrating Oils Compared

I have used a mixture of acetone and synthetic 2 stroke oil for many high temp applications like mold block moving parts to prevent lead sticking and galling. When heated, it does creep! It can be used similarly to the acetone-ATF mix as a penetrating oil.

For stuck screws/nuts/bolts Kroil or an acetone-oil mix after heating part. Then let part cool. A few cycles of heating and cooling after application of a penetrating oil is about as good a method as any. Wood and metal mixed parts obviously calls for caution when using heat. A small tip soldering iron is good for applying heat to only a screw or bolt in wood. Even though it works, I don't particularly like Kroil because something tells me it also penetrates skin.... not unlike DMSO. I don't think getting Kroil into your system is a good idea. I use Ballistol mixed with water as a BP cleaner and solvent for use while shooting and at the end of a range day of shooting BP. At home I use hot soapy water for BP clean up followed by regular gun oil or WD40 or whatever is handy. I agree that most oils are not particularly good for wood, especially penetrating type oils like Kroil. I don't think there is a problem wiping down wood with Ballistol.
 
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Come now! No one uses one of these bad boys on his Purdey, Boss or Pre-64?

Image1678248131.359513.jpg


On a serious note, I believe the best barrel cleaner is to alternate swabs of JB Borepaste and Kroil. One wet swab of Eliminator from Boartech helps with quick copper removal.
 
Come now! No one uses one of these bad boys on his Purdey, Boss or Pre-64?

View attachment 521614

On a serious note, I believe the best barrel cleaner is to alternate swabs of JB Borepaste and Kroil. One wet swab of Eliminator from Boartech helps with quick copper removal.
of course!!...but you'll need to enlarge the screw slots with your handy-dandy dremel tool....like any creative "gunsmith"
 
of course!!...but you'll need to enlarge the screw slots with your handy-dandy dremel tool....like any creative "gunsmith"

I use half a bottle of Jack for Dutch courage and a triangular file…
 
I primarily use an "Ed'd Red" variant as my primary bore cleaner. I use one of the copper solvents purely for copper removal. An issue to be aware of is that the common names for the chemicals used is not constant across different countries eg mineral spirit in OZ is different to mineral spirit in the US. Likewise the different 'kerosenes'. Finding out the CAS number for the chemical used in the US will allow you to find the best match elsewhere.
I also use Ed's Red for bore cleaning. Only time I have struggle was a 70 year old .22 which had/still has? stubborn carbon. Even some stronger solvent did help much. But when I boiled the barrel during rust blueing, it loosened a whole lot of carbon.

I dont think the solvents used are too much of a problem. Kerosine or paraffin will vary in quality but it wont affect solvent ability much. The same can be said for acetone/paint thinner/mineral spirit. They all have acetone and some have some other petroleum based solvents and all will soften carbon. One of the best solvents was highly carcinogenic-carbon tetrachloride,good carbon solvents are carcinogenic because they dissolve the carbon in your skin etc. The key (speaking as a chemist) is many small applications. One large soaking is not as effective. And we have to use weaker solvents to reduce our cancer risk, it is just something we have to put up with.
 

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