New Scope - Brand Question

[deewayne2003]

@deewayne2003 Regarding lapping there are some manufacturers like Talley who recommend against them. Their POV is it is finished using CNC machines and lapping may have some adverse effects. This is what I was told.So are you referring to some specific brand or in general?

In general or shall I say I lap all my rings.

I just mounted a 4-14x40 Vari-X III on a .300Wby with Talley rings and I still lapped them.

Morris at Alaskan Arms goes a step further, he paints the inside of the ring with a very thin coat of liquid electrical tape and then torques to spec, I tried it and have been doing that too ever since.

Even if the part is machined to exact tolerence, there is still the issue of the finish and how it will may flow to sharp edges changing tolerence.

So again, I lap all my rings now.... Just don't over lap them.

 

[Rimshot]

There are a lot of good options out there. Each have strengths and weaknesses.

I personally like the option to dial for longer range on almost any rifle, provided the turret has a zero-stop and zero-lock. If it's not a tall turret and it locks, I see no disadvantage. I think Leupold has the best system so far. The illumination is lacking though, both in max brightness and adjustment. I also don't like that the other reticle options have a large portion illuminated, rather than just the dot if it's not the firedot. Despite the limitations, the VX5/6 are a good value when you get them at often discounted prices and I have several on my most used hunting rifles.

For illumination, the Zeiss Victory scopes have the best setup. A button on the ocular surrounded by a knob to adjust intensity, the quickest and most intuitive ergonomics. The dot is an extremely fine point and can go from night time dim to full sunlight bright range. I wish Zeiss would offer better reticle options, for wind hold at longer ranges. Great optics and eyebox on the V8 - I was able to shoot flying birds while using the scope on my BD14 even.

I haven't been a Swaro owner until recently. I got a Z8i 2.3-18x56 with the 4W-I reticle. This is the perfect reticle IMO for maximum utility. Clean enough for snap shots in thick brush yet able get accurate wind holds on longer shots. Shame on Swaro for not offering it in the rail version of this scope. The illumination isn't up to Zeiss standards, but it's good. My main complaint is the dot is a little too large and the brightness adjustment is button tapping rather than a knob. The 3 position switch for night/off/day illumination settings is clever though. The optional ballistic turret is ok, but the locking feature is a lot less elegant than Leupold's solution, or even Zeiss for that matter.

 

[SStomcat]

In general or shall I say I lap all my rings.

I just mounted a 4-14x40 Vari-X III on a .300Wby with Talley rings and I still lapped them.

Morris at Alaskan Arms goes a step further, he paints the inside of the ring with a very thin coat of liquid electrical tape and then torques to spec, I tried it and have been doing that too ever since.

Even if the part is machined to exact tolerence, there is still the issue of the finish and how it will may flow to sharp edges changing tolerence.

So again, I lap all my rings now.... Just don't over lap them.

So after lapping and using scope alignment tool are the points supposed to align horizontally and vertically or just horizontally?
I ask as the rear mount is generally higher than the front to along the scope with barrel contour.

 

[Smitty]

I love Trijicon, BUT be aware that they accupoint does not have locking turrets. If you buy the model with capped turrets, it doesn't matter. If you buy own with dial-up turrets, I would not get a scope without locking turrets on a DG rifle. I missed the biggest buck of my life because the turret moved while I was hiking in that morning. Just something to consider.

 

[M98Man]

Schmidt Bender all day long

 

[SStomcat]

Schmidt Bender all day long

They make great glass and scopes which are built like a tank, all metal construction and heavy and rugged. They are more suitable from a tactical and military standpoint but in this range Swaro is recommended for balance, features, optical light and clarity, more tuned for hunting. This is what my research tells me. I own a low end Swaro but no S&B.

 

[SStomcat]

So after lapping and using scope alignment tool are the points supposed to align horizontally and vertically or just horizontally?
I ask as the rear mount is generally higher than the front to along the scope with barrel contour.

For the first time I lapped my rings and was able to aling horizontally to the T. However vertically there seems to be a small (less than a mm at the points) misalignment as the rear being high.Is this OK or as expected?

 

[M98Man]

For the first time I lapped my rings and was able to aling horizontally to the T. However vertically there seems to be a small (less than a mm at the points) misalignment as the rear being high.Is this OK or as expected?

If it’s high at the rear you’ll be shooting high, possibly very high! There’s a risk you could run out of adjustment range, so I’d be using f a collimator to ensure you don’t go to the full effort and then find at the range you are maxed out elevation adjustment wise and hitting 8” above the bull.

 

[M98Man]

They make great glass and scopes which are built like a tank, all metal construction and heavy and rugged. They are more suitable from a tactical and military standpoint but in this range Swaro is recommended for balance, features, optical light and clarity, more tuned for hunting. This is what my research tells me. I own a low end Swaro but no S&B.

Had many swaros and sold them all. Found the build quality flimsy and I’ve had more repairs needed with swaros than any Zeiss or Schmidt. In fact, never had a Schmidt needing repairs. Swaros issues have been with loose fitting ocular rings, lenses coming lose, snapped reticles, turrets seizing or springs needing replacement. Schmidt (hunting range) are not heavy, they’re just buildt strong and with possibly the best low light glass in any scope out there. The polar will beat any swaro on the market, hands down.

If I was to take one scope to a place on earth where I want it to work and zero risk of any issues, I’d bring a Schmidt, nothing else.

Until you’ve owned one, you have t seen the light my friend

 

[mark-hunter]

I would like to do a buffalo hunt one day, but not basing this purchase on that hunt. I can change the scope out when I make that trip if I feel so inclined. I have a tendency to “rabbit hole” myself when doing research. Not really a question per se, just through I would post what I noticed and see what this group had to say.

I have no experience with Leupold, but I live across the pond. (more influence from European brands)

My 375 H&H scope is Swarovski Z6, 1.7-10x42.
Out of 5 safaris I did till now, I took Z6 twice to Africa. to include a buffalo as well.
3 other times I was using local guns, and various scopes they rented in camp. (not leupold)

Now, if you will take for it is worth, my choice for this scope get to be best possible for safari conditions in my opinion.

If I were to buy a scope for all round European hunting I would probably choose at least 50 mm front lenses.