Need help with Mauser safety

[SwampTrooper]

I recently picked up this FN Mauser off gunbroker for probably too much money. It has no markings, no serial number and the safety was frozen, all of which was not advertised. Oh well. I would like to make the gun a project and fixing the safety is first priority. The safety seems to be a two position (maybe) low safety. When on safe the cocking piece seems to be so far forward, there is no lip for the safety to interface with to push back over. I have to manually pull back the cocking piece to index the safety to “on safe”. I’ve seen some videos on beveling the leading edge of where the cocking piece engages with with the safety. I’m not too sure if this is the same issue. I’d appreciate any advice!

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

Looks like a Parker Hale safety, mine don’t lift that high when on safe, it could be worn or someone has fiddled with it in a failed attempt to make it easier to use. I have one in my spares box that was doing similar, but not as bad as having to pull the cocking shroud back, just notchy and not a positive locking
Gumpy

 

[mdwest]

Midway used to sell that safety. Brownells still does.

DAYTON TRAISTER Mark II Safety fits: Mauser M-98, FN & Similar SKU: 240001980

Check out DAYTON TRAISTER Mark II Safety fits: Mauser M-98, FN & Similar SKU: 240001980 available Online at Brownells Today and many more Rifle Safeties & Parts products are available in our Gun Parts Department.

www.brownells.com

It’s a drop in, low profile safety that replaces the flag safety found on military mausers…

South African gunsmiths often refer to thrm as “45” safeties because of the 45 degree angle of the throw…

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

Looks similar, but not the same , grooving is different as well as the shape
Gumpy

 

[SwampTrooper]

Either way, the issue is that when on fire, it is completely frozen. It it possible for a cocking piece to be “too far forward”? This is really a conundrum for me.

 

[mdwest]

There are several variations… they all work the same way..

Timney produced one for a while.. Dayton produced one.. Chapman made one.. etc etc…

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

This is a bad photo of a Parker Hale one I fitted to my 8x68S
Gumpy

 

[mdwest]

Either way, the issue is that when on fire, it is completely frozen. It it possible for a cocking piece to be “too far forward”? This is really a conundrum for me.

From the pic it appears to be incorrectly installed…

here’s one correctly installed on a 35 Whelen I built several years ago

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

Either way, the issue is that when on fire, it is completely frozen. It it possible for a cocking piece to be “too far forward”? This is really a conundrum for me.

Pull the bolt out and remove the safety, if you can, compare it to a good flag safety to see what is worn/damaged.
Gumpy

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

From the pic it appears to be incorrectly installed…

here’s one correctly installed on a 35 Whelen I built several years ago

View attachment 717246

View attachment 717247

Different type, O.P.'s is on the other side of the bolt
Gumpy

 

[mdwest]

Either way, the issue is that when on fire, it is completely frozen. It it possible for a cocking piece to be “too far forward”? This is really a conundrum for me.

It is possible for the bolt shroud to be a turn too far forward, which would cause the cocking piece to malfunction. Try turning it back a rotation and see if that works.

It’s also possible that the part of the cocking piece that engages the sear is not fitted properly… to fix that you’d either have to do a little machining, or just buy a few cocking pieces and play around until you find one that fits well…

When I was building mausers (haven’t built one in probably 5 years, but built about a dozen of them prior to that), I kept a drawer full of cocking pieces and bolt shrouds.. they’re cheap, and I found it easier just to swap out parts until I found a good fit than I did to machine on parts to get a good fit…

 

[mdwest]

Different type, O.P.'s is on the other side of the bolt
Gumpy

Again, they all work exactly the same way… there are a dozen variations made by a dozen different companies.. some install with the wing on the left.. others have the wing on the right… they are all “45’s” and install and function the same way..

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

Also check the sear and cocking piece to make sure someone hasn’t fiddled with them to make the trigger lighter
Gumpy

 

[SwampTrooper]

I think I need to purchase a new safety or keep working on this one with a dremel or file to bevel the surface that touches the cocking piece. This one is definitely installed correctly. It’s designed to be on the left from what I can see. I can completely disassemble the bolt the hard way, by repeatedly pulling back the cocking piece and unscrewing the bolt shroud. This is sort what you do when you accidentally remove it on fire rather than the half position and attempt to disassemble it you know what I mean.

 

[SwampTrooper]

Yes it’s definitely a 45 degree. I got no problem with that. It just doesn’t work.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Do you intend to scope it? If not, I would just toss that safety and find a military flag style. Someone installed this one incorrectly. No telling what they did to cocking piece. Good news is they are easily replaced. Actually, that is likely the issue. I'm thinking Bubba installed the wrong style cocking piece. There's at least two styles of 98 Mauser cocking pieces: A and B. Maybe more.

 

[mdwest]

I think I need to purchase a new safety or keep working on this one with a dremel or file to bevel the surface that touches the cocking piece. This one is definitely installed correctly. It’s designed to be on the left from what I can see. I can completely disassemble the bolt the hard way, by repeatedly pulling back the cocking piece and unscrewing the bolt shroud. This is sort what you do when you accidentally remove it on fire rather than the half position and attempt to disassemble it you know what I mean.

If you decide to buy a new safety, I’ve found the timney version to be the best built, albeit a little more expensive than the buehler, Dayton, and other similar options.. the flag piece is a little more robust and the overall machining is a little more precise.. they also polish much better than the others, take cerakote and other finishes better, etc..

Mauser Safety - Low Profile

Best replacement triggers available

timneytriggers.com

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

Again, they all work exactly the same way… there are a dozen variations made by a dozen different companies.. some install with the wing on the left.. others have the wing on the right… they are all “45’s” and install and function the same way..

Yes, they work (mostly) the same, but the O.P. asked about the one in his rifle, which is what I was talking about
Gumpy

 

[BlueFlyer]

Just to make sure I understand the issue correctly. When the bolt is cycled and locked into battery ready to fire, you then cannot lift the safety handle to engage the safety into a safe condition?
Previous comments that there are many versions that all follow the same principle is correct.
The ramp on the safety should match up with the front edge of the cocking piece and cam the cocking piece back slightly off the trigger sear.
It sounds like the cocking piece when engaged on the trigger sear is too far forward and the ramp on the safety is not lining up with the front face of the cocking piece. Hence it is all locked up. When you pull the cocking piece back a little this then allows the safety to rotate into the safe position.

To understand the problem better can you take a macro photo from the top right side of the bolt shroud and try to show the ramp on the safety and the front edge cocking piece when the rifle is ready to fire.

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

I’ll try and find the damaged safety I have and take out a good one and get a photo, may not be today
Gumpy