My next stock refinishing project

[Woodcarver]

@Woodcarver , I think I'll try giving a week between coats of LinSpeed. Do you do anything after applying the Linspeed other than wiping off the excess?

Nope. Just make sure there's no drips hanging or little fine ridges and hang it to dry. 20 minutes a week is a small effort with beautiful end results. I do actually keep a little sticky note close by that I note the date of each coat, otherwise I lose track, lol. (and a day or 2 either side of a week works just fine)

 

[Ontario Hunter]

The reason you're experiencing an easily scratched, "soft" finish, is due to the oil taking literally months & months to actually begin drying when it is applied in what amounts to a very thick coat and gets sealed in by the top coat. Even allowing just 24 hrs between coats will allow each coat to harden some. If you really want a durable finish, let each coat dry a week before the next. Takes longer for sure (months, not days), but the end result is a durable, water resistant, easily maintained, deep finish. Topped with Renaissance wax on an annual basis, a proper oil finish will withstand a lot of abuse and still look good. Too many people are too impatient to achieve a good oil finish (think that's why poly was invented).

A psa for those looking at refinishing a stock. DO NOT use straight linseed oil; it literally will never dry. Boiled linseed (BLO) will, but it does not dry overnight. Tung oil suffers the same issue, but it's requirement is additives, not boiling. There are a lot of wood finish products that combine the 2 to take advantage of both oil's properties. LinSpeed is a BLO with additives (thus the "Speed" part of the name) that works well, and will return a beautiful finish, but it must be allowed to dry between coats to get the full benefit. Avoid TruOil completely.

True Oil is not very pretty for sure.

Yes, Linspeed does require days between coats if one desires glossy finish. I was big on glossy look in my younger years. But no matter how long the final coats are aged, the finish is still not very tough relatively speaking. Personally, I find the feel of satin finish (i.e. rubbed down to surface of wood) much "warmer." Glossy finish is cold in winter and "sticky" in summer. Satin is not slippery, it just feels good. To me anyway.

Toughest finishes are synthetic lacquer or polyurethane but surprisingly poor for protection aganst moisture. Best protection, believe it or not, is natural lacquer but it's very soft, as is spar varnish/urethane for boats. The reason they protect better against the elements is because they are soft. The softer finish moves with the wood in expansion and contraction. Stiffer finishes crack (microscopical), especially in hot environments. Oil finish is even softer.

 

[Nhoro]

I would rub the finished down with sandpaper wrapped around a block between coats. You can use 400 or 600 grit and always with the grain. That flattens the finish and smooths any ripples or high spots before the next coat. You end up with a much better quality finish whether satin or glossy.

 

[BonUm16]

Though not specifically about firearms finishes, the linked book might be of benefit to you, Cash.

Understanding Wood Finishes


Also, if not already familiar with it, Timberluxe might be another finish you would want try on a future project.

TimberLuxe

www.timberluxe.com

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Though not specifically about firearms finishes, the linked book might be of benefit to you, Cash.

Understanding Wood Finishes


Also, if not already familiar with it, Timberluxe might be another finish you would want try on a future project.

TimberLuxe

www.timberluxe.com

My late wife gifted me one of those in hard cover many years ago. Great resource but I can't seem to find my copy. Must have loaned it to someone driftier than me.

 

[gprippers]

Ah shoot! I was going to post up the name and type of oil that by buddy uses when he does a stock for me, but i drew a blank! He is a master cabinet maker who is retired but still doing side jobs making kitchen cabinets, bath cabinets and refinishing antiques etc as well as the occasional rifle stock here and there. Ive had him knock down the clear coat shinny varnish finishes on rifles and clean up any scratches and then he does a hand rubbed oil finish always comes out beautiful and it protects as well. They always come out FANTASTIC! He uses a German product that he says is expensive and hard to get, but its worth it according to him as it actually "hardens" and protects the wood. I know, sounds strange but ill call him one afternoon here in the next couple days and have a chat and send you a pm of what the product is and how he does it.

The latest is a Remington model 700 Mountain rifle that i bought new in approx 1998 ish and had been hunted by me, sons and other family members on quite a few hunts over the years. It was scratched up fairly deep in a few spots as well as the that Rem clear varnish looking over coat was broken in quite a few spots. He stripped it, lightly sanded it and took scratches out and then used that German oil/stain/wax product and it came out very very nice. He says after a few coats of the stuff it hardens and protects like a "wax" if i remember correctly. It doesnt feel different or look different from any other hand rubbed oil finish but again, he claims it protects against dings and scratches better.
Ill pm you after i speak with him as it might be worth giving this stuff a try.