My first rifle build

greyfox

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Go now, before you're too old, save the pennies and GO!! I went last year and am going back in 2017, this time to Namibia, just trying to decide on the 416....
 

Erich

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Ok I've been looking at barrels. I have heard nothing but good things about kreiger but I'm curious about pac nor. Does anyone have experience with them?
 

John P.

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Ok I've been looking at barrels. I have heard nothing but good things about kreiger but I'm curious about pac nor. Does anyone have experience with them?

Kreiger barrels are cut rifled. Very high quality, I have two of them. Last one I ordered took over a year to deliver, but that was years ago, I am sure they have improved delivery. Visit their site, they have a lot of very modern machinery.

Pac Nor barrels are button rifled. I have used probably over 20. All good quality and they shot very well.

So the choice depends on:

Cut Rifled or Button

Delivery time

Cost

Call both and find out what their delivery times are.

Lothar Walther is worth investigating. I have a .458 barrel from Lothar Walther awaiting installation on a Montana M99 action, a back burner project.
 

Erich

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I have quotes for both the Kreiger and pac nor installed and the pac nor is about $100 to $150 cheaper. So I didn't know if the kreiger is worth the extra money.
 

Velo Dog

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I agree with that completely. I believe that currently the .404 J is the most in demand rifle in this general size of caliber. To buy a true Jeffery Rifle new, they run around $36-38,000. I have seen a few older ones for $10-15000, but not many. I am having one imported from South Africa just now at a price I can afford. It is new with a M98 action. It may be 2-3 months before it arrives and maybe 2-3 months later before I see it. I have wanted a .404 J for nearly a year now, and I am finally within a few months of it happening. If everything works out, this will probably be the rifle I bring up to your place in the future for that rockfish fry!!!

Hi Sierraone,

I look forward to seeing your new .404 one fine day.
Is it being built by Sabi Rifles perhaps?
Those look like very fine Mausers, for the relatively reasonable price that Sabi charges for them.

Here in the USA, a couple times I have made offers on rifles in this caliber (www.gunsinternational.com) but each time the sellers would not negotiate.
Meanwhile, I must make do with the .416 Rigby caliber, oh poor mistreated me - lol.
My .416 is a CZ 550 that I have had modified to my liking (Model 70 type "safety", slightly shortened barrel, custom front sight, barrel band sling stud, etc., etc.)

If you bring up your new .404 some day, I only live about 2miles from a rifle range so, perhaps we can fire a shot or two from these and one or two other rifles I have here?

Cheerio,
Velo Dog.

PS:
Erich,
In regards to the barrel maker question,
Pax-Nor
Kreiger
Lothar-Walther
All have excellent reputations for accuracy and general high quality.
A person cannot go wrong with any of those three brands.
Regards,
El Doggerino (if you're not into the whole brevity thing).
 
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sierraone

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Hi Sierraone,

I look forward to seeing your new .404 one fine day.
Is it being built by Sabi Rifles perhaps?
Those look like very fine Mausers, for the relatively reasonable price that Sabi charges for them.

Here in the USA, a couple times I have made offers on rifles in this caliber (www.gunsinternational.com) but each time the sellers would not negotiate.
Meanwhile, I must make do with the .416 Rigby caliber, oh poor mistreated me - lol.
My .416 is a CZ 550 that I have had modified to my liking (Model 70 type "safety", slightly shortened barrel, custom front sight, barrel band sling stud, etc., etc.)

If you bring up your new .404 some day, I only live about 2miles from a rifle range so, perhaps we can fire a shot or two from these and one or two other rifles I have here?

Cheerio,
Velo Dog.

The rifle was made be Johan Greyling. He supposedly has 3 finished ones. At this point my son in Little Rock is waiting for the details for an ATF form 6. His local shop in L.R, will be doing the importing. If you find the thread .404 J working rifle for sale, there are two pics there but neither is really very good. If the gun shows up as shown, I will be happy for the price I am paying. There will be a customs broker charge also, but the importer will end up advising me of that cost when they get to that point. Once the form 6 is sent in to ATF they have 6-8 weeks to issue the import permit to the dealer. I have no idea what the builder in S.A. has to do to export it. In any case I won't be home until at least mid summer and maybe later. Hopefully my son will have it in hand by then. If the whole thing turns into a disaster, I still have the RSM .416 Rigby and a choice of two .375 H&Hs, RSM (the latest acquisition) and M70, to bring to Anchorage. That get together will definitely happen! The biggest issue may be you, Action Bob and myself agreeing on the date when the time comes. I already have the airline miles to cover the flight from either Florida or Arkansas to Anchorage. And the Holiday Inn near the airport will be my cabin of choice while there!!!
 

John P.

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416 Rem, 400 grain Woodleigh. 100 yards. Pac Nor No. 5 stainless barrel. 24 inches long. 3X9 scope. Off the bench.

 

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Bos Javanicus

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I read your notes on not wanting to alter too much a 1917 action. There were millions of military Mausers made and it would hold little or no significant historical value. So hack away and feel OK doing so. Reading what you intend to do to it anyway you might as well feel free to make whatever mods you wish. It seriously depends how far you want to go with this build of yours, being your first rifle as you say, then probably best not to get too carried away. You don't have to modify a 98 too much to get a very good rifle. Personally I'd got the .416 Taylor, reloading for it is a piece of cake and .458 WinMag brass is more common place than .416 Ruger. Resale value wise, if two identical rifles were on the shelf in either calibre, I'd grab the .416 Taylor every time. Be careful before removing any metal to get a rifle to feed as once removed it's bloody hard to replace.
 

Erich

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I read your notes on not wanting to alter too much a 1917 action. There were millions of military Mausers made and it would hold little or no significant historical value. So hack away and feel OK doing so. Reading what you intend to do to it anyway you might as well feel free to make whatever mods you wish. It seriously depends how far you want to go with this build of yours, being your first rifle as you say, then probably best not to get too carried away. You don't have to modify a 98 too much to get a very good rifle. Personally I'd got the .416 Taylor, reloading for it is a piece of cake and .458 WinMag brass is more common place than .416 Ruger. Resale value wise, if two identical rifles were on the shelf in either calibre, I'd grab the .416 Taylor every time. Be careful before removing any metal to get a rifle to feed as once removed it's bloody hard to replace.
Thanks for the advice, I've already started work on getting the ruger cartridge to feed. It feeds ok from the left but the right side still hangs up a little. I haven't had it hardness tested or had the barrel fitted yet. I'm hoping to do those this winter. I need to tweak the extractor a little bit too but I'm only using hand files and stones to remove metal, I'm resisting the urge to dremel.
 

Hogpatrol

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re: barrels, Pac Nor, Kreiger, Bartlein, Brux and Broughton are all good barrel makers. I prefer the Brux but don't know if they make your desired caliber.
 

8x68

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I realize the thread is a bit old but I have Pac Nor barrels on both of my custom builds. The 404 Jeffery shoots lights out. 358 Norma Mag will be on the bench soon.
 

Hogpatrol

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Just ordered a Pac Nor SSSM in 17 1-9 twist for a .17 Fireball. That baby is going to Africa in September.
 

rookhawk

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If you're serious about wanting a scope and you're willing to spend $700 on the parts and lots of time, the ideal solution is an offset front claw mount screwed to the left of the action, and a rear claw mount on the rear ring. The front ring is a mannlicher offset single claw, the rear is a standard double claw. Returns to zero, no interference with iron sights or your stamps on front ring.

A friend just had this done for around $2000 at NECG. It's a complicated way to go but it is a purist route and it is your custom build.
 

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