Muzzle threading questions

I suspect it can be done but leaves you needing to justify living at the safety margin

375s come from the factory from several makers with a 5/8x24 thread pitch. the absolute minimum wall thickness accepted for bottleneck rifle calibers by pretty much everybody is .100 inch muzzle wall. The 5/8x24 puts you right at that minimum considering the minor thread diameter is 0.575 for this thread pitch

Also, depending on the taper of your barrel you may need a longer thread with a conical nut added to the barrel to allow you to have adequate shoulder if you choose to use direct thread mount system. That or cutting it back until you have enough shoulder to provide friction as the base of the suppressor as it abuts the barrel

in any event you’ll need to move your front sight

Now, understand that this is to allow the absolute minimum wall thickness considered safe. It says nothing of adding additional safety margin

This also says nothing about the effect to your precision of having a wall thickness at, not above, the safety margin

There are examples from gunsmiths showing a wall thickness greater than this eventually, through use, forming an oval muzzle that reduces precision and, at worst, could contribute to a baffle strike on a brake or a can

It boggles my mind but there are documented examples of 5/8x24 pitch shooting 30 cal and this happening to the point that groups opened up

One would presume that this could be negated by always using a thread cap, can, brake, etc that adds meat around the threads to prevent “ovaling” but at minimum I think it argues to always be above bare minimums

my own take would be to recommend going above minimums when muzzle concentricity is on the table. 11/16 or 3/4 is “more adequate” than 5/8 in this case and what I’d advise

better than my opinion would be to call your suppressor manufacturer and discuss it with them. Please let us know what they say. Always good to have more guidance
 
How badass would a 14-16in barrel with a can on it be? Handy sum bitch but the weight loss won't be kind without a can i fear.
 
I think this is an excellent opportunity to buy a new rifle that already has a threaded barrel. The other option I’d go for is switching the existing barrel for a new one that come with threads.
 
For thinner barrels I put a shoulder for a stop for the supresser. That way I can have the proper size threads and a good stop for the supresser.
Best way if building a gun is to solder the stop then turn on the lathe to make sure its square for the supresser. For a used blued barrel I thread, blue the stop put the stop on, use Permatex High Tempature thread locker, turn to square it up. I usally buy a muzzle thread protecter from Hughes Presision Products in Indian River, Michigan they look good and well cheaper than me spending the time making one.

 
I understand that portion but from what I have read online 1/8th AKA .125” and seems like the consensus is you need at minimum .100 so even at .125 it should have plenty of thickness according to consensus? Again I might be missing something I don’t know lol.

Online from a Suppressor maker? A .375 caliber suppressor, from what I just found on the internet would be somewhere around 9 inches long and weigh close to 2 lbs. That's a long lever. Don't bump it going through the brush...might not break. Might only get knocked out of alignment. That may only move bullet strike, and result in an miss.

I would check with the manufacturer of your suppressor and see what they say, and see what they guarantee. THey can advise you from a point of knowledge and not from this old guys remembering something he use to do 35-40 years ago.
 
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