Current Projects

Since my kids have basically moved out after college, I am taking over their playroom/college storage room for my man cave/trophy room. I have begun to hang a few heads on the wall but cleaning out their stuff is way more of a project than I anticipated. I have collected a few things to add some decor, but mainly just shoulder and skull mounts that have been hiding in various rooms throughout the house. Hope to have it done by football season…
 
Fellow Rifle Enthusiasts,

At the moment (aside from rebuilding the porch that’s rotting away from the side door of my old 1977 house), is having the very best Alaska Gunsmith (Andy Hawk) to replace the bolt handle on my Venezuelan 7x57 Mauser, with a Pre-War style “Tear Drop” style one.
A Rigby Highlander Stalker it surely is not, such as my very best good friends, Mr. Spike T. and Mr. Red Leg rightfully have.
However, it’s the best that I can muster with my retiree fixed income.

I bought the unfired barreled action, still wrapped in greased paper at a gunshow in Minnesota for $150. US, about 12 years ago, while my young trophy wife was going to school there (she’s only 65).haha
It was an absolute steal even back then.

Andy Hawk stocked it just right for me.
One of these years I plan to have it clawed mounted by JJ Perodeau, with a proper Austro-German 4x scope, low over the bore.
With the forward base silver soldered on top of the chamber, the vivid Venezuelan Crest will be undisturbed.
Even with that expensive claw mounted arrangement, scope and all, I will have only about $3,500.US invested in this fast handling and accurate little rifle.
Our local Sitka blacktail deer be warned.
(Damn the 7MM-08’s and full speed ahead).

Cheers,
Velo Dog
@Velo Dog
Mightn't be a rigby but it's a damn fine rifle and if'n it fits you and is accurate what more do you need. The money you saved in a Rigby can go to another hunt and will buy a lot of other things you might like.
Bob
 
Very Nice!! It is a desire of mine to acquire a true Mauser Action like yours & build something ......

Thank you Mr. X,

Ya, I waxed lucky for once with the extremely low price for the barrelled action and also for the pre-finished / mostly inletted but not quite “drop-in” stock as well.
Incidentally, my previous photos show the little 7MM with its original arsenal bolt handle still in place.
I’ll have to try and remember to post finished pics after the upgraded bolt knob is installed.

I don’t recall exactly what I paid for the stock.
It was not very expensive through Sarco or Brownell’s or some similar gun parts web site.
What I do recall is that having the Gunsmith to finish inletting that stock in fact cost way more than the stock itself cost.haha
But that having been said, the excellent work was worth every penny.

I am very fond of the 7x57 Mauser cartridge, especially ones built with long enough throats and magazines, plus fast enough rifling twist to work well with bullets longer and heavier than the typical 140 grain ones.
Not that there’s anything wrong with 140 grain bullets for quite a lot of shooting scenarios.
Today, it is perhaps the most popular bullet weight in this well balanced and historically significant cartridge.
I expect the 140 gr load would be particularly well suited for the shooting of such species as, N. American pronghorn, caribou, European chamois, ibex and Africa’s springbok, mountain reedbok plus many more similar open country habitat type animals, around the world.

The rightfully popular but now sadly passed Gun Writer, Jack O’Connor, once wrote that a particular 7x57 rifle of his was his “favorite windy day chuck rifle”.
For readers in other parts of the world, a “chuck” in this context is a house cat-sized rodent, known as a marmot or rock chuck or wood chuck or groundhog, Jurrasic hamster, whatever.

Regarding the handy hunting Mauser topic, I’d also love to own and use a pretty much mirror image duplicate of my snappy little 7x57, except in caliber 8x57 Mauser.
Unfortunately at this late stage for me, it’s not very likely to happen.
And that’s OK too because, I feel extremely fortunate to already have what I have.

Anyway, if you want a decent and serviceable hunting rifle in 7x57 caliber, without bankrupting you, I encourage you to attend gun shows.
Also, keep an eye on gunsinternational.com for an old surplus military one, such as the Venezuelan or Columbian or WW-II era Brno, etc.
Ones that someone has half heartedly tried to “sporterize” but only ruined the stock, and not having gotten around to ruining the metal yet, via drill press, electric grinder and other destructive measures sometimes have very good to excellent chambers and bores.

Such only partial vandalized rifles often aren’t expensive at all.
Then, you can shop around for a pre-finished, checkered and fully or mostly inletted, sporting style walnut stock.
When you get around to it, have a Professional Gunsmith fashion your parts and pieces together into something pleasant to own and use.

Good luck and
Kind Regards,
Mr, V.
 
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My latest project is fitting this original FN Deluxe sporter stock that I picked up this spring at the big Tulsa gun show to an FN 1953 in 257 Roberts that is currently in an aftermarket stock. My plan is to glass bed the barreled action, ensure the barrel is free floating, refinish the stock using Timberluxe and the method recently outlined by Rookhawk, and then mount a red 1" recoil pad from NECG.

20260411_172733.jpg
 
My latest project is fitting this original FN Deluxe sporter stock that I picked up this spring at the big Tulsa gun show to an FN 1953 in 257 Roberts that is currently in an aftermarket stock. My plan is to glass bed the barreled action, ensure the barrel is free floating, refinish the stock using Timberluxe and the method recently outlined by Rookhawk, and then mount a red 1" recoil pad from NECG.

View attachment 783377
@cash_tx
While you are glass bedding it pillar bed it at the same time to give it the best chance of a stable platform. Love the calibre, the Roberts is a handloaders dream. 3,200 fps with a 100grainer and almost 3,000 fps with a 120 is possible with judicious handloads without straing anything
Bob
 
@cash_tx
While you are glass bedding it pillar bed it at the same time to give it the best chance of a stable platform. Love the calibre, the Roberts is a handloaders dream. 3,200 fps with a 100grainer and almost 3,000 fps with a 120 is possible with judicious handloads without straing anything
Bob
Thanks, @Bob Nelson 35Whelen , that's the wonderful thing about the M98 action; it is inherently pillar bedded on the front recoil lug, and I've already fitted a Brownells stock ferrule for the rear action screw (just need to bed it in). I've got a pile of 120gr Nosler Accubonds allocated for this rifle, and will charge them with IMR 4350 since I'm sitting on a fair amount of it. Thanks! :)
 
Similar to the steamer trunk project of @Altitude sickness, I acquired this old shotgun case belonging to Major D. Harding of the RAMC. According to online history sites, he served in the 2d Boer War, then was stationed at a hospital in India (when the steamer stamps were put onto his gun case for the trip home) and then WW1. Other than replacing the leather handle I'm not sure where to begin but want to preserve this piece of history. Thought I would mount his picture inside instead of a brand label. Found his photo album on line! One shot shows him on the deck of a steamer, center back (maybe the Anchor Line?) and one with a pipe, shotgun (far left) and a couple hunting companions. The internet is great for research! All suggestions appreciated.
Craig
View attachment 767088View attachment 767091
So partway through project, replaced leather handle, added hinges, and attached pictures from his photo album, but not sure if I should have just left the interior with nothing attached?
IMG_0913.jpeg
 
Next up: replace missing brass corners, replace missing leather piping along bottom front where canvas is worn. Any suggestions for the discolored canvas (mold, mildew, 100 yrs of stuff)? Am afraid chemicals may destroy the canvas.
 
Next up: replace missing brass corners, replace missing leather piping along bottom front where canvas is worn. Any suggestions for the discolored canvas (mold, mildew, 100 yrs of stuff)? Am afraid chemicals may destroy the canvas.

This will be a long read , so apologies....

Well, I am not an expert on archivale cleaning of antique/vintage canvas, nor an expert on cleaning anything.... however, I have for the majority of my life owned/worn *cotton canvas, *waxed cotton canvas, to include sleeping under it (Tents) & being propelled by it (Sails).

Grease, oil & rust can be difficult to remove, but verdigris & mildew stains have been the most problematic for me. Despite, "waxed" or "oiled" canvas can repel some contaminants/stains, but that is subjective. Another consideration is the *weight in ounces i.e. thickness of the canvas , the weave/texture that allows contaminants to be collected in the fibers.
Most of my personal daily attire for the past 35+ yrs has consisted of CC Filson, Schaeffer & LL Bean products, so cleaning cotton canvas by hand (not mechanical) has been routine.

With your gun case it is hard to tell with pictures any specifics about the canvas, none the less the fact it is attached to wood is tricky, in addition to the stamps/documents that have been "glued" to it. For a full cleaning that falls into the realm of "restoration" the canvas would be removed & conservation techniques used. That certainly requires expertise, which is pricey & time consuming. If your goal is to just tidy-up the exterior of the gun case I would think Spot Cleaning is the best option.

I will preface, DO NOT attempt cleaning if you suspect the fabric/canvas is has succumb to dry rot! Moreover, isopropyl or denatured alcohol, white vinegar are useful in removing many contaminates/stains, the caveat being in your instance those could create other issues. So, with that in mind, below are the items & process I use to clean cotton canvas-

Items :
Brush with medium bristle (natural fiber/hair is preferred; I use horse and/or camel hair)

Brush with soft bristle (same bristle material as aforementioned)

Natural Sea Sponge (pricey & can be difficult to source)

100% cotton Terry Cloth towels/rags or old 100% cotton T-shirts - must be white

Q-Tips - again 100% cotton
Cotton balls - again 100% cotton

For Waxed or Oiled Canvas use -
Cornstarch for oil based stains
Castile Soap for other stains
[Recommended cleaners for your gun case due to the canvas being attached (glued) to the case.]

For non-Waxed or Oiled Canvas
Ivory Soap or Lye Soap , Vinegar , Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol can be used to work out especially difficult stains.
[Although NOT recommended for your gun case, due to the application/gluing of canvas to the gun case.]

Medium sized Bowl/container for holding water
Small sized Bowl/container
Water - room temp

Cleaning Process:
Use Med. bristled Brush to remove as much loose material as possible. Even if it doesn’t look like there is any thing heavy do it any way, given the age of the case there will likely be accumulated dust in the weave. This will help open the fibers & loosen the contaminants/stains.

The next step is to use the Cleaning Agent on the stains -
If using Cornstarch just add water to make a paste, then apply to area and scrub using the soft bristle brush, Terry Cloth towels & Sponge, alternateing between each. Use circular motions & Do NOT use heavy pressure.

If using the Castile Soap apply
For small spots use Q-tips
For larger spots use Cotton balls
Then scrub using the soft bristle brush, Terry Cloth towel & Sponge, alternateing between each. Use circular motions & Do NOT use heavy pressure.

** Important to remember, in both instances, have patients and use lots & lots of "elbow grease". Also remember, do NOT be aggressive, some stains require multiple attempts, and will get fainter & fainter after each time. I find allowing the spot to "soak" can be beneficial.
You should also clean your brush & sponge regularly & use clean areas of the towel/rag.

After cleaning and you are satisfied with the result, use the Q-tips & Cotton Balls to wipe or rinse away residual cleaner and draw out moisture. This should avoid any warping or bubbling/delamination of the canvas from the wood.

I used the above process to clean a canvas gun scabbard I have with good results, as I did not want to have moisture soaking into the padding/lining.

Example of brushes I use.

20260822_193404.jpg

Example of Medium bowl

20260822_194632.jpg

Example of Small bowl

20260822_194706.jpg

Castile Soap

20260822_195348.jpg

Examples of stuff I've routinely clean

Gun scabbard

20260822_180321.jpg

Cotton Canvas vest

20260822_180148.jpg


Lastly, before attempting to clean, do a test in an inconspicuous area to ensure it won't have a detrimental affect, as already alluded to it is very possible the fabric has dry rot and the cleaning process could cause irreversible damage.

Apologies for the long reply, if you have questions just send a DM.
 
Can't thank you enough! This is very much appreciated. I will try it on an inconspicuous spot as you recommend. The case is well over 100 yrs old, seen time in the hold of a steamer between England-South Africa-India-England and who knows where it was dropped or stored so in my mind it is fragile and has been exposed to all kinds of elements. My goal is just an amateur restoration to preserve what is there.
 
I spend most of my time on forestry and habitat work. My wife conscripted me to do some landscape work around the house.

IMG_5044.jpeg
 
Can't thank you enough! This is very much appreciated. I will try it on an inconspicuous spot as you recommend. The case is well over 100 yrs old, seen time in the hold of a steamer between England-South Africa-India-England and who knows where it was dropped or stored so in my mind it is fragile and has been exposed to all kinds of elements. My goal is just an amateur restoration to preserve what is there.
I got lost in the detailed answer, lots of good information. I don’t know if it was mentioned, alcohol based solvents will dissolve "hide based" glues which is what was meant by "be careful ". They often don’t let go straight away but break down over time, they can do it in heat as well so don’t drown the canvas with alcohols , go gently and let it dry well between sessions. One of the forum members restores old cases, can’t remember who, hopefully someone else can remember who it was and they can assist you as well
Gumpy
 

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