Current Projects

Edit: Bob, good luck with your recovery.

Projects: working on my first time through taxidermy shoulder mounting a deer I got last season because I couldn’t find a taxidermist in my state to take it. “We’re too behind for new work”. Erik (gizmo) offered but the logistics were a pain, so I am learning the very hard way how to do it. Currently pickling the hide. Going to shave (thin) it this evening.
 
What process are you using?
I follow Brownell's instructions on acid fume blue. The process utilizes two acids placed in shallow dishes in an enclosure. (I think nitric and hydrochloric, but check) Start with 5-6 drops each, adjust only if necessary to get a reaction on the metal with out too heavy fumes which can remove blue down to white metal--so more is not better. Fumes are heavy and will not speedily leave the container, but keep the lid on. My enclosure is an unused blueing tank lined with polyethylene sheeting with a flat plywood top also sheathed in poly. Wood soaks up an inordinate amount of the fumes if exposed. Poly soaks up a little but then no more. Some addition of acid may be required to replace that which is soaked up in the saturation phase. I support the barrels, etc. on the razor thin surface of the caps of spray paint cans, turned upside down, keeping the barrels suspended off the bottom. Seems to leave no mark. Barrels must be degreased completely, then boiled with a little TSP, boiled at least once in clear water to clean everything THOROUGHLY. (this is after any other metal prep, of course) I use thick cotton lined heat proof rubber gloves to handle anything from then on out, and keep them clean, especially of any source of oil. Stainless steel blueing tank is dedicated to boiling and it has Brownells hangers to support barrels off the bottom. ONLY USE DISTILLED WATER, though clean rain water may be OK, especially for initial boilings. Plug the ends of the barrels without fail while they are in the fume box. You will find a black fur on the barrels, which will come off as powder after boiling, removed by 4X steel wool which has been degreased with acetone or similar clean evaporating lacquer thinner type. Remove plugs when boiling. The bore will be exposed to boiling water but will evaporate immediately due to the heat. Ignore it until the whole process is finished. Plug, fume, boil, card off residue about 6 times or so, until the blue is deep. It will also be tough!! You will notice less and less reaction to the fumes as every pore of the metal is filling progressively with black oxide. If you cannot get much more reaction from the fumes, what makes you think raindrops will be able to rust it?
The finish will be matte, more than polished bright, but it will really last. Polish up the bores, then oil and you are done. BTW do not touch anything used in the boiling phases with anything oily, or you will have to degrease or replace said rubber gloves, etc. when it's time for the next job. This is a no bare handed touch, degreased process start to finish else you will have to start over from scratch if you put oily finger prints on it before it is completed. Put everything up clean and then oil when in your opinion the whole job is dark enough and done.
Otherwise, rust blue is simple, ancient and pretty. And an absolute must on ANY soft soldered double barrels! (hot blue will eat the soft solder)
 
I use an Angiers mix to blue, mostly nitric acid and a few other bits, wipe it on and let it rust, boil and a collection of soft wire wheels, clean 4’0 wire wool and coarse rags to clean. Repeat till happy and place in oil bath. A friend tried a fuming method, not sure which one, and got quite sick from the fumes.
And as to the hot blue, a "so called self promoting gunsmith " (some AHN members will know him) over here hot blued a very expensive set of beretta barrels for a customer and when he lifted them out of the tank he had just the top barrel on the wire, the bottom barrel had fallen off and the rest was so loose it came off in the rinse. He did his usual and blamed everyone else but still had to buy a new barrel set which he had to send to my friend to fit properly to the action
Gumpy
 
A Spring Project other than the Wood Pile...
Picked up a 9.3x62 built on a Parker Hale "Hussar" action.... The standing Express Sight and 3 flip Ups need to be filed in.. I'll get the elevation sorted than send it off to a gunsmith to finish and blue
 
Just picked up a Ruger 77 Mark II in left hand in 300 WM, I've looked for several years for a proper action, took a lot longer than I was expecting. Going to rebarrel to 458 WM on Tuesday it going to be shipped. Sending to Pac-Nor for a 20" barrel threaded for a muzzle device or a supresser to be installed, from there I will do all the work. NECG front sight, I have a NECG receiver sight still thinking of having a NECG Masterpiece rear sight. Fabercate and install a block on the barrel as extra recoil lug. I'am going to remove the Ruger pad shorten the stock and install a proper recoil pad at a proper length. Cut off forearm at the factory sling swivel and add a piece rosewood, strip and refinsh stock and rechecker. Also add a barrel band front sling attachment.

A lot of work to have the project completed by September for a bear hunt. Then next summer Africa then Australia.
 
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340 for a buddy and a 404 for me
 
I'm contemplating on what to do with the Husky 146 I just acquired. I'm going to keep it in the original caliber as I've always wanted a 9.3x57, but the wood and metal finishes are open for debate. Your suggestions are always welcome!
 
Yes every body tells me a hip is not as bad as a knee i had my right knee replaced in 2010 not a lot of fun but a very good result , i am getting tired of the pain at night.
@rdog
They say pain is your friend it lets you know when you have over done it.
With friends like that I don't want to many of them. The old body is full of aches and pains
Maybe I shouldn't have been so stupid when I was younger but where's the fun in that
Bob
 
Similar to the steamer trunk project of @Altitude sickness, I acquired this old shotgun case belonging to Major D. Harding of the RAMC. According to online history sites, he served in the 2d Boer War, then was stationed at a hospital in India (when the steamer stamps were put onto his gun case for the trip home) and then WW1. Other than replacing the leather handle I'm not sure where to begin but want to preserve this piece of history. Thought I would mount his picture inside instead of a brand label. Found his photo album on line! One shot shows him on the deck of a steamer, center back (maybe the Anchor Line?) and one with a pipe, shotgun (far left) and a couple hunting companions. The internet is great for research! All suggestions appreciated.
Craig
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This is my current project, so I can then have a 10’ deep foundation and enough room for more rifle projects.
I don’t know if I’d trust it on pallets, but that cribbing we use is designed just for this type of support. With a hydraulic piston in the center we leveled the house ( 5.5” pitched downward the slope ) and then shift the cribbing as we dig to get to grade.
Big steel I-beams span the structure and are also tied together. Very stable system though from the picture it looks hellacious.
Concrete forms will start this weekend if the rain holds off and the start pouring next week.
Just another day in the north doing crazy things but I’d rather be working on rifles!
 
I have used several of George's (Tree Bone carving) #1 stocks for projects. Currently have a 458 #4 on the waiting project list waiting.
 
Rebarreling a beater M70 - synthetic stock "Black Shadow" .30-06 Sprg , installing optic mount + fiber front sight Win M1300 synthetic furniture "Black Shadow" 12Ga

AR variant getting different muzzle device, optic & testing different MFG magazines for function/reliability....

20260803_233901.jpg
 
Fellow Rifle Enthusiasts,

At the moment (aside from rebuilding the porch that’s rotting away from the side door of my old 1977 house), is having the very best Alaska Gunsmith (Andy Hawk) to replace the bolt handle on my Venezuelan 7x57 Mauser, with a Pre-War style “Tear Drop” style one.
A Rigby Highlander Stalker it surely is not, such as my very best good friends, Mr. Spike T. and Mr. Red Leg rightfully have.
However, it’s the best that I can muster with my retiree fixed income.

I bought the unfired barreled action, still wrapped in greased paper at a gunshow in Minnesota for $150. US, about 12 years ago, while my young trophy wife was going to school there (she’s only 65).haha
It was an absolute steal even back then.

Andy Hawk stocked it just right for me.
One of these years I plan to have it clawed mounted by JJ Perodeau, with a proper Austro-German 4x scope, low over the bore.
With the forward base silver soldered on top of the chamber, the vivid Venezuelan Crest will be undisturbed.
Even with that expensive claw mounted arrangement, scope and all, I will have only about $3,500.US invested in this fast handling and accurate little rifle.
Our local Sitka blacktail deer be warned.
(Damn the 7MM-08’s and full speed ahead).

Cheers,
Velo Dog
 

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Fellow Rifle Enthusiasts,

At the moment (aside from rebuilding the porch that’s rotting away from the side door of my old 1977 house), is having the very best Alaska Gunsmith (Andy Hawk) to replace the bolt handle on my Venezuelan 7x57 Mauser, with a Pre-War style “Tear Drop” style one.
A Rigby Highlander Stalker it surely is not, such as my very best good friends, Mr. Spike T. and Mr. Red Leg rightfully have.
However, it’s the best that I can muster with my retiree fixed income.

I bought the unfired barreled action, still wrapped in greased paper at a gunshow in Minnesota for $150. US, about 12 years ago, while my young trophy wife was going to school there (she’s only 65).haha
It was an absolute steal even back then.

Andy Hawk stocked it just right for me.
One of these years I plan to have it clawed mounted by JJ Perodeau, with a proper Austro-German 4x scope, low over the bore.
With the forward base silver soldered on top of the chamber, the vivid Venezuelan Crest will be undisturbed.
Even with that expensive claw mounted arrangement, scope and all, I will have only about $3,500.US invested in this fast handling and accurate little rifle.
Our local Sitka blacktail deer be warned.
(Damn the 7MM-08’s and full speed ahead).

Cheers,
Velo Dog

Very Nice!! It is a desire of mine to acquire a true Mauser Action like yours & build something ......
 
Fellow Rifle Enthusiasts,

At the moment (aside from rebuilding the porch that’s rotting away from the side door of my old 1977 house), is having the very best Alaska Gunsmith (Andy Hawk) to replace the bolt handle on my Venezuelan 7x57 Mauser, with a Pre-War style “Tear Drop” style one.
A Rigby Highlander Stalker it surely is not, such as my very best good friends, Mr. Spike T. and Mr. Red Leg rightfully have.
However, it’s the best that I can muster with my retiree fixed income.

I bought the unfired barreled action, still wrapped in greased paper at a gunshow in Minnesota for $150. US, about 12 years ago, while my young trophy wife was going to school there (she’s only 65).haha
It was an absolute steal even back then.

Andy Hawk stocked it just right for me.
One of these years I plan to have it clawed mounted by JJ Perodeau, with a proper Austro-German 4x scope, low over the bore.
With the forward base silver soldered on top of the chamber, the vivid Venezuelan Crest will be undisturbed.
Even with that expensive claw mounted arrangement, scope and all, I will have only about $3,500.US invested in this fast handling and accurate little rifle.
Our local Sitka blacktail deer be warned.
(Damn the 7MM-08’s and full speed ahead).

Cheers,
Velo Dog
Nice looking rifle.
( now I go off mumbling about cradle snatcher’s ……..)
:ROFLMAO:
Gumpy
 

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