Basic brass forming .375

I do have the cases. When I got the rifle, he gave me some fired brass as well as 50 straight ones. When I asked him about it, he said he just would use lots of case lube and the .375 die. I kinda figured there may be intermediate steps, which is why I thought I would ask on this reloading forum first. I did not want to re-invent the wheel if someone had already done it.
Ah, just lube em up and run them through the .375 die. I run lubed .458WM cases through my .416 Taylor die to create the Taylor cases on my 45yoa RCBS JR (not Rockchucker) press. Maybe the sharper Ruger shoulder might be an issue and maybe not? Lube em up and try it! Live on the edge!
 
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"Light" in a 375 context. Such as a 270 Barnes LRX (rather than a more traditional 300+)
I ran several bullets against each other in ballistic calculations. I thought the 250 TTSX would fly better, but it doesn't. The 270 LRX is the bullet to have for long shots. The 300 grain Accubond has a better BC than the 270 LRX.

Something to note is I found the long copper bullets can hinder getting to max velocity, depending on what powders you have. I highly recommend you get some Reloader 17 if you can find it. It makes the .375 Ruger shine!
 
I'm open to the 300 Accubond, but more than I need for elk. I have access to IMR 4350, as a trade for one of my kidneys to a guy living under the bridge in a van down by the river. One day, I'll find RL-17.
IMR-4350 is the exact powder I had to give up trying to use with my 300 grain TSX. The compression was so much it kept pushing the bullet back out.

I actually posted in the classifieds here, and found a member close enough to trade with. I swapped him some Varget for RL17.

The .375 Ruger starter kit, and my retirement plan lol

20210221_125915_copy_1209x1209.jpg
 
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