Out of curiosity what should a interarms withworth as mentioned sell for? I've found one like new for 800 but have no idea actual value.
From the feedback above, I think I’ll be better off just finding a standard .375 and see how it feels. I can always get a comp installed later.
Or I go with my redneck friends’ recommendation of 12” wide strip of cotton blanket, a roll of duct tape and a bucket of water
For the price of the hunt surely you can afford 3 sets of Walker Game Ear shooting muffs to provide the PH and tracker's to protect their ears. Just think as it is part of the tip. I have shot rifles and been next to rifles at the shooting range that wasn't ported or had a muzzle brake that the percussion of the rifle lifted or moved stuff off the bench.
I thought some would perhaps find this interesting . I own this photograph . This was a photograph of our client , using a Weatherby bolt operation rifle , calibrated for the .300 Weatherby magnum cartridge , taking aim at a leopard . The rifle had a muzzle brake ( which we call barrel ports in our country ) . On account of the muzzle brake , we professional Shikaris were standing BEHIND the client . A poster on a thread here once commented that muzzle brakes can be very uncomfortable for the people around the shooter . They are correct. Muzzle brakes cause a lot of pain to trackers and professional Shikaris ( who invariably stay near the shooter when he is firing ) as the noise goes directly to our ears . The benefit , however , is that the muzzle brake also reduces recoil. Personally , l do not think that the .375 Holland and Holland magnum cartridge necessitates a muzzle brake . However , some shooters particularly adverse to recoil , may benefit from it .
I have dozens of the silicone earplugs on cords. Tied on the back of my cap takes a split second to stuff one in my off side ear. Nearly all my rifles have brakes and can't afford to lose any more hearing Of course I'm not hunting dg where that split second matters
The best practical solution to your problem I am able to think of depends on your muzzle brake. IF the holes in your brake are circular and not oblong, you may very easily have each hole in the brake tapped and threaded for a small allen screw, effectively filling each port with a plug that you could remove when you want. I have seen muzzle brakes like this to enable shooters to plug downward facing holes to reduce dirt blowback, so why not plug all the holes with little set screws? Use a light loctite and you should be fine. Hope this helps.
Either a hacksaw or just get one without- as several have suggested. If I were looking, this is the type I would be looking at. I believe this is a New Haven rifle made between about '94 and '99. The later CRF, New Haven M70s made until 2006 (end of New Haven era and the beginning of the FN era) are the best ever produced... IMO https://www.gunbroker.com/item/844925624