28 Gauge Recommendations

@Red Leg the overall approach sounds good, except the lead with the left?. That’s a fairly “clays centric” process. What happens when you need to shoot hard right? Is the method workable when you need to shift weight and take a shot off the balls of your feet in the opposite direction than intended?

And yes, I spent a lot of time on high pheasant so I am prone to shooting a form that allows a vertical shot, although that’s not needed in most rough shooting. Probably why my form is based on the biased of how I was taught and what I shot most. (Doves and driven) Believe it or not, never killed a woodcock or a quail with a gun before! (But I’m open to invitations!)
The left forward allows the shooter to respond instantly and smoothly to any target. When the target is to the right, I simply point the left foot that way. Again, instinctive and the barrels thrust toward the target smoothly and quickly. Think of it as as a 5" 38 mount on a destroyer - maximum traverse without reset during the shot. And instant ability to pick up a second target. But I am not really debating this. I know it works.

I would also suggest, it is the only effective way to hunt pointed birds or driven birds when the guns are part of the drive (wild South Dakota pheasants and European huns spring ;) to mind.)

I have killed tens of thousands of driven pheasant. I find the true vertical shot wasted effort - particularly with an off-foot address. I'll easily kill him a half second earlier to my front. But hey, If it works for you, then great. Shooting style - regardless what instructors believe - is very personal.
 
The hold point, or draw length, has more to do with the unique characteristics of the target than anything else. The distance from the comb of the gun to your cheek may be less with faster targets where you don't want to spend a lot of time getting your gun up to your cheek. Conversely, in situations such as long incoming targets, where you have more time, you can start with a lower mount.
 
Who really uses a 28ga now a days? Seems a very specialized ga for shot gun
 
Who really uses a 28ga now a days? Seems a very specialized ga for shot gun
It is extremely popular here for quail in the American South. At least among properly civilized sportsmen. :Cigar: And the 28 is perfectly balanced for these relatively small, close flushing game birds. There are places where showing up with anything larger than a 20 will have you shunned for a generation and escorted to the property gate never to be invited back.
 
It is extremely popular here for quail in the American South. At least among properly civilized sportsmen. :Cigar: And the 28 is perfectly balanced for these relatively small, close flushing game birds. There are places where showing up with anything larger than a 20 will have you shunned for a generation and escorted to the property gate never to be invited back.
I use the 28 extensively on game and clays. Typically I shoot a .410 on skeet and a .28 on sporting clays and game. In fact, I have used a 28 in Africa on guinea and francolin. I can carry many more cartridges within the weight restriction with the 28.
 
WOW!!! I did not realize that....

I have always yearned for a 410 3" shotgun just because....lost a deal on a name brand Spanish one recently....

Here however only practical caliber is 12ga or 20 ga although there are many 410 available... I passed up a 7x57R/16 ga Heym combo for my daughter due to that and got her the 12ga/308 in stead

Thanks for the insight, always good to learn about other places and caliber preferences...
 
The left forward allows the shooter to respond instantly and smoothly to any target. When the target is to the right, I simply point the left foot that way. Again, instinctive and the barrels thrust toward the target smoothly and quickly. Think of it as as a 5" 38 mount on a destroyer - maximum traverse without reset during the shot. And instant ability to pick up a second target. But I am not really debating this. I know it works.

I would also suggest, it is the only effective way to hunt pointed birds or driven birds when the guns are part of the drive (wild South Dakota pheasants and European huns spring ;) to mind.)

I have killed tens of thousands of driven pheasant. I find the true vertical shot wasted effort - particularly with an off-foot address. I'll easily kill him a half second earlier to my front. But hey, If it works for you, then great. Shooting style - regardless what instructors believe - is very personal.
If you are pivoting over your leading hip properly (left hip for a right handed shooter), you can draw a straight line on any flight path, including high incomers. If needed, slight lift of the left heel allows you to go fully vertical, however, I agree with Red Leg, that is a low percentage shot and one I shy away from.

My first driven shoot was many years ago in Scotland. On the first drive my peg was between Holland & Holland's top two instructors (Ken Davies and Roland Wild). It took me a bit to realize that their birds were hitting the ground well in front of us. These were high fast birds so you can imagine the distance at which they were taking the shot! I now take the shot when the bird is well out front. Often you pull the trigger at 50+ yards. However, you are leading an incoming bird so the point of impact is much closer than the distance the bird is at when you pull the trigger. You are also shooting a bird whose vitals are fully exposed, unlike a going away bird in rough shooting.
 
If you are pivoting over your leading hip properly (left hip for a right handed shooter), you can draw a straight line on any flight path, including high incomers. If needed, slight lift of the left heel allows you to go fully vertical, however, I agree with Red Leg, that is a low percentage shot and one I shy away from.

My first driven shoot was many years ago in Scotland. On the first drive my peg was between Holland & Holland's top two instructors (Ken Davies and Roland Wild). It took me a bit to realize that their birds were hitting the ground well in front of us. These were high fast birds so you can imagine the distance at which they were taking the shot! I now take the shot when the bird is well out front. Often you pull the trigger at 50+ yards. However, you are leading an incoming bird so the point of impact is much closer than the distance the bird is at when you pull the trigger. You are also shooting a bird whose vitals are fully exposed, unlike a going away bird in rough shooting.
Exactly.
 
It is extremely popular here for quail in the American South. At least among properly civilized sportsmen. :Cigar: And the 28 is perfectly balanced for these relatively small, close flushing game birds. There are places where showing up with anything larger than a 20 will have you shunned for a generation and escorted to the property gate never to be invited back.

Yep. I've been shunned by these clubs by a goofball with a 1ounce load in a 20 gauge of modern design was explaining how uncouth my 12 bore 3/4 ounce London Gun was. This stigma started out by gentlemanly clubs wanting members to shoot waterfowl close by calling them in well and hitting them with 20 bores back in the 1950s. I get that and I like that. But a modern American 28 bore is pushing out more lead than London best 16 bore and most 12 bores. Chamber length matters and proof loads matter.

I wasn't offended by the guy's ignorance calling me out because I do get the premise that a knucklehead at a wingshooting upland club with a 12 bore 3" super black eagle isn't perhaps adhering to the spirit of a nice day afield with a double gun shooting birds over pointing dogs. Most Americans don't understand that an English gun with a square load was built for a purpose and that the gun they own today is cheating that purpose by being loaded beyond the original design. (E.g. a 5/8 load in a 28 bore for quail, not a 1 ounce load in a 28 bore for quail)
 
Yep. I've been shunned by these clubs by a goofball with a 1ounce load in a 20 gauge of modern design was explaining how uncouth my 12 bore 3/4 ounce London Gun was. This stigma started out by gentlemanly clubs wanting members to shoot waterfowl close by calling them in well and hitting them with 20 bores back in the 1950s. I get that and I like that. But a modern American 28 bore is pushing out more lead than London best 16 bore and most 12 bores. Chamber length matters and proof loads matter.

I wasn't offended by the guy's ignorance calling me out because I do get the premise that a knucklehead at a wingshooting upland club with a 12 bore 3" super black eagle isn't perhaps adhering to the spirit of a nice day afield with a double gun shooting birds over pointing dogs. Most Americans don't understand that an English gun with a square load was built for a purpose and that the gun they own today is cheating that purpose by being loaded beyond the original design. (E.g. a 5/8 load in a 28 bore for quail, not a 1 ounce load in a 28 bore for quail)
Agree with everything but the genesis.

My grandfathers and their friends were shooting gentleman Bob in Tennessee and the Carolinas with twenties before WWII. My paternal Grandfather was something of a wizard with his "Elsie". It ended up with an uncle and vanished upon his death. The Eastern Shore side of the family were also waterfowlers and their duck guns were big 12 bore SxS's. My grandfather had a Fox (long gone) but I have always supposed it was a Super. He was a successful attorney and State Legislator until crushed by the Depression. Have no idea about what his quail gun was, but my uncle said that he remembered that he shot "burds" with a 20. It would have been a SxS.

But with respect to modern loads, American prejudices, and quail, you are exactly correct. Frustrating.
 
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I would agree that some of the upland bird places in the South would run you off showing up with anything larger then 20 and not a double. Thankfully, I live and hunt in Texas, and have not run into that problem. In South Texas, quail are hunted several ways. Sometime off the front of a quail rig truck, other times with dogs, sometimes just walking. I’ve seen every type of gun used. Even though I have a Parker, it’s a 12 and I undoubtedly be unwelcome at some places.

I am looking for a 20 double just for that reason. I currently have a 20 single shot and Semi.
 

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I really have enjoyed reading this thread, it has taken me back to some of my first quail hunts with my "new" father-in-law. His (unplugged) 28 gauge auto would have four quail down before my 12 gauge o/u would have two. I didn't realize then what spectacular times they were, we were out for quail meat. It would be impossible (and unethical) to repeat that today. A quick pointing gun in a master's hands is a very effective killing machine.
 
I have never understood the animosity that some in the American South have for the 12.
 
Yes but a bit silly if it causes someone to turn their nose up at a 2 1/2" chambered London Best. I once owned an 'O' framed Greener with 2 1/2" chambers and 25" tubes. Deadly on grouse and woodcock in the tight covers I was hunting in New Brunswick at the time. Hard to imagine someone claiming that that gun with its' 3/4 oz shot charge was not proper for quail!

Tradition?
 
Yes but a bit silly if it causes someone to turn their nose up at a 2 1/2" chambered London Best. I once owned an 'O' framed Greener with 2 1/2" chambers and 25" tubes. Deadly on grouse and woodcock in the tight covers I was hunting in New Brunswick at the time. Hard to imagine someone claiming that that gun with its' 3/4 oz shot charge was not proper for quail!


many people enforce rules without understanding the essence of the rule and why.

If you really want to one-up a gentlemen with a 28 bore, have a look at 1930s 12 bore sxs English 2” guns. The weighed 5lbs and were built to do “28 gauge things” with an even better pattern. Few survive, and they are fairly affordable. RST still makes shells for them.
 
As many have said, CZ makes some quality, inexpensive doubles. I own a couple of their OUs and really enjoy them; the 28 is probably my favorite quail gun for timber areas.
 
I Hunt with a 28 for many years now - Ley for the small bore shot is good ammo. I mainly use Gamebore 6s and Fiocchi 5s! With this ammo, you have good range for Rabbit and Pheasant
 
i hunt small game with a rem 28 ga and bought a used mec 9000 for reloading. useing rem sts cases loaded with one oz # 6 shot. winchester does make a one oz factory load, they are costly tho.
 

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