In Upper Volta, on the Singou River, in the 1970s. I must have been 15 or 16 years old. It wasn't my first time, but it was the best.
At that time, we could set up camp wherever we wanted in the bush. Later, camps were only allowed within a certain radius of the Forestry Service post (Pama for the Singou area).
My father and I used to set up camp not too far from the hunting trail and we would choose a shady tree for the duration of the hunt.
That day, we arrived at the trail that ran alongside the Singou at nightfall and we were eager to set up camp because we were tired.
We found our campsite using a spotlight and the car's headlights. Several thorny thickets would do for that first night, and we would move camp the next day at daybreak. We had left the track about thirty meters away. We emptied the Land Rover and the 404 pickup truck of their contents: cots, a table and chairs, food supplies, beer, and personal belongings. We were a team of four: my father, the tracker, the Land Rover driver (who was also a tracker and butcher), and myself. Once the equipment was set up and the cots assembled, my father asked us to make a fire.
Oh, I forgot to mention that on the track between Pama and Singou, we killed a very large python (maybe 5 or 6 meters) that was crossing the road. It was killed at the tracker's request for the meat. We cut off its head and put everything in a canvas bag, like a flour sack. It was one of the things we unloaded.
Once the bag was unloaded, it started rolling around and going in all directions. The bodies of large snakes, even after death, take time to become inert. Regardless, it wasn't going to be able to go far, and it continued to thrash about.
So we had to light a fire. We started it with kindling we found where we were, but it wouldn't last the whole night. We were about to go looking for more wood with our flashlights when two lions began to roar (we heard them about 50 meters away). For those who know, they were answering each other in turn, and the roar ended with their characteristic throat-clearing sound.
The night was pitch black.
The lions roared at regular intervals and seemed to be moving. We thought they were on the trail and following it. Once the initial shock had worn off, we discussed how to find firewood. My father said, "It's simple, we'll wait for them to roar and then go to the opposite side to look for wood with our lamps. One person will stay at the camp to make their presence known with a rifle." And that's what we did three or four times.
The lions were there for a good part of the evening, perhaps until 10 p.m. They walked along the trail for a few meters, roared, and stopped. At one point, you could have thought they were in the camp, when the trail passed closest to us.
And then they moved away, still following the trail and calling back and forth regularly.
What's certain is that they weren't hunting. For them to stay so long, perhaps our presence intrigued them, or the smell of snake blood intrigued them too. The next day, we found the tracks on the trail and all our suspicions were confirmed.
It was a magical evening; 45 years later, I still remember it.