8x68S owner's opinions

[nztimb]

That works Gert. When we did mine I made a math calculation of the percentage required to go from the pictures LOP to what I needed and that is what they input to the printer which gave us very close and with a couple of 1 % increases we got to the exact lop for my stock pattern

 

[One Day...]

Hello Gert;

Great project. The 8x68S is a great caliber. I used to have one barrel for it for a Mauser 66. The 8x68S adds ~100 fps to the hottest load you could ever dare with a .300 Win Mag. This puts you real close to .300 Wby country, a nice place to be with a cartridge that is not encumbered by a belt.

The only problem with it, of course, is that by the time you are done with the 8x68S built, you will have no other choice than to start building a carbon copy of the rifle in 6.5x68 ;-) A matched pair of rifles for the two Schüler 68 mm cartridges will wreck terror on any plains game of any size, any where, and truth be told, will also do nicely on cats and buffs where legal... (and elephant with solids).

One suggestion if I may: allow me to recommend that you attach the claw mount bases (front & rear) to the action with not only screws - as you have drilled and tapped for, but also with a silver solder joint. I had this done on a number of my rifles, and it is the best possible mounting system short of integral bases. This takes one variable (possible loosening of the bases screws) out of the equation in term of sights consistency.

As for scope, I would suggest that you find a used Schmidt & Bender or Zeiss rail scope that you install in the claw mount by cross drilling the rail where the claws need to be positioned. This too is virtually foolproof and will prevent any scope movement ... ever. Yep, technically a 15 year old scope will not be as bright as the latest glass, but I doubt that you will ever see a different under field conditions, and these rail/claw mounts - if well installed - NEVER go out of alignment.

Regarding 3 vs. 5 grooves, I agree with what has been said. For what it is worth, the US military went with 5 grooves for their .300 Win Mag new sniper system.

Great work. Congratulations!

PS: I have not read every post along the 11 pages, so if you have already planned on silver soldering the bases, I apologize for missing it...

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Hello Gert;

Great project. The 8x68S is a great caliber. I used to have one barrel for it for a Mauser 66. The 8x68S adds ~100 fps to the hottest load you could ever dare with a .300 Win Mag. This puts you real close to .300 Wby country, a nice place to be with a cartridge that is not encumbered by a belt.

The only problem with it, of course, is that by the time you are done with the 8x68S built, you will have no other choice than to start building a carbon copy of the rifle in 6.5x68 ;-) A matched pair of rifles for the two Schüler 68 mm cartridges will wreck terror on any plains game of any size, any where, and truth be told, will also do nicely on cats and buffs where legal... (and elephant with solids).

One suggestion if I may: allow me to recommend that you attach the claw mount bases (front & rear) to the action with not only screws - as you have drilled and tapped for, but also with a silver solder joint. I had this done on a number of my rifles, and it is the best possible mounting system short of integral bases. This takes one variable (possible loosening of the bases screws) out of the equation in term of sights consistency.

As for scope, I would suggest that you find a used Schmidt & Bender or Zeiss rail scope that you install in the claw mount by cross drilling the rail where the claws need to be positioned. This too is virtually foolproof and will prevent any scope movement ... ever. Yep, technically a 15 year old scope will not be as bright as the latest glass, but I doubt that you will ever see a different under field conditions, and these rail/claw mounts - if well installed - NEVER go out of alignment.

Regarding 3 vs. 5 grooves, I agree with what has been said. For what it is worth, the US military went with 5 grooves for their .300 Win Mag new sniper system.

Great work. Congratulations!

PS: I have not read every post along the 11 pages, so if you have already planned on silver soldering the bases, I apologize for missing it...

One Day , thank you for this advice , I really think it is a great solution to silver solder the scope bases...yes I have a great Smidt& Bender rifle scope...I just need to see how accurate I can shoot with it at longer distances..that will be possible when I completed the build...I already thought about building the 6.5x68S ..it really will cover all my type of hunting trips I do...
Garry, thank you again, the photo is at the Sign company, they are working on it ..I believe I will not get it right the first time around but they can try it a few times until they get the measurements right...

 

[Gert Odendaal]

One Day, I foresee a challenge in regards to the scope mount bases by silver soldering it..I rather will use lock tight as well with the screws since the heat will damage the claw mount springs inside the claw scope bases...I believe Lock Tight will be doing about the same as the silver soldering????

 

[One Day...]

This it a good point Gert, but the springs should be removable easily. Depending on which type of rear base you have, there are likely two small blind screws holding them in place on the rear face of the base, and you can disassemble the sliding bar by removing one screw likely located in one of the two finger tabs. There should not be any spring in the front base.
The difference between Loctite and soldering is that you will Loctite the screws in place instead of soldering the bases in place. I am sure you appreciate the difference.
The only reason why I have become a bit anal about this is that I have had properly degreased/torqued/blue Loctited 8x40 base screws loosen after 100 shots or so on a .340 Wby. I am now relying on red Loctite, but I always have a bit of a nagging doubt deep down inside me, and I dare not check the torque on the screws in order to not brake the Loctite bond, if it has held so far. This would be a destructive check, so I do not do it... Conversely, I have yet to see a properly silver soldered base loosen. Actually, this is the way it used to be done, and is still done, in Europe when barrel blocks are added to mount front claw bases, and many rear bases are soldered too just to be sure.
Truth be told, if I dared I would TIG weld the bases on the action ;-)

 

[Gert Odendaal]

One day, I will have a look today, will remove the screws and the springs , wire brush the bases and silver solder it to the action, then another procedure will be completed on the action before the barrel arrives,.....thank you again...

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Good day to all members, I believe all is well and good on every one`s side??? Members, I am extremely fortunate to have bought the 8x68S barrel with the assistance of one of our forum members, ...the barrel arrived at Dave`s address. I now need to ask some one a great favor, if possible to bring the 8x68S barrel to South Africa if any one is coming to South Africa any day from now???? I really would be appreciating it very much if a visiting hunter will see his way open to bring along the 8x68S barrel .

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Members, thank you , I am fortunate to have a person from South Africa visiting the USA in January 2019 who will bring the barrel to South Africa...I will keep myself busy with the magazine box and begin working down the rifle stock. I have a fair idea of what I want the stock to look like, working towards the slender design of a Mannlicher Schoenauer stock , combining it with the fit of my 404 Jeffery and .375 H&H Magnum hunting rifle..

 

[HWL]

For the lovers of the Mannlicher-Schoenauer and the 8x68S cartridge…

Mannlicher-Schoenauer GK in 8x68S from 1964, Zeiss 2,5-10x52 Diavari-Z T* on claws, 65 cm Antinit barrel.

HWL

 

[Gert Odendaal]

For the lovers of the Mannlicher-Schoenauer and the 8x68S cartridge…


View attachment 260335
Mannlicher-Schoenauer GK in 8x68S from 1964, Zeiss 2,5-10x52 Diavari-Z T* on claws, 65 cm Antinit barrel.

HWL

In other words : the perfect hunting rifle and perfect caliber ever designed..

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Members, the barrel will be arriving this coming week, I really am excited .. I am extremely fortunate to have , had the assistance of members on this great forum that assist me in acquiring the 8x68S barrel as well as a double ste trigger that will grace the 8x68S hunting rifle...my appreciation is tremendous I will shortly commence with he actual build of the 8x68S ...at this stage I am spending a lot of time on the preparations for the 1884 Era Black powder hunt...so I think the real building work will commence after the Black powder hunt...
I am currently busy making a second pair of "Velskoene" /Leather shoes to hunt with on the black powder hunt..here are a few photos:

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Members, I am sure you noticed the length of the 8x68S barrel is 28" inches long. I would like your opinions on the length of the 8x68S barrel?????

 

[Rule 303]

For me 26" is the ideal barrel length for the 8X68, however you do not lose too much performance by dropping to a 24" barrel but I wouldn't go below this. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Thank you Rule 303 , your input is much appreciated:

My 8x57JS Turkish Small ring Mauser has a step barrel of 29.1" . I have hunted extensively with it in bush veld regions, including thick sekelbos bush and experienced no problems carrying it all day.I really do not foreseen any difficulties in leaving the 8x68S barrel on 28" length?

I may stand to be corrected, in the following assumption I make: Maybe the advantage of such a long barrel is complete burning of powder?
Longer pressure curve while shooting hot loads in this long barrel?
I really would like some opinions as well as well founded theories in this regards members???

 

[bruce moulds]

gert,
rifle balance might decide barrel length for you.
i had a 27" fairly heavy barreled rifle and the point of balance was just too far forward for offhand shooting, although ok for rested firing.
the pressure curve up to 24" will be the same as for a 24" barrel - what happens after that is a bonus in a longer barrel for extra velocity, more so with slower powder.
in all these things you might notice little difference in the field, making handling the main consideration.
depending on the profile, 26" is a good compromise length for a longer range rifle, which the 8x68 is.
should you not like it you still then have the option of cutting it back to 24".
bruce.

 

[Rule 303]

Thank you Rule 303 , your input is much appreciated:

My 8x57JS Turkish Small ring Mauser has a step barrel of 29.1" . I have hunted extensively with it in bush veld regions, including thick sekelbos bush and experienced no problems carrying it all day.I really do not foreseen any difficulties in leaving the 8x68S barrel on 28" length?

I may stand to be corrected, in the following assumption I make: Maybe the advantage of such a long barrel is complete burning of powder?
Longer pressure curve while shooting hot loads in this long barrel?
I really would like some opinions as well as well founded theories in this regards members???

Gert as a rule of thumb you should loose/gain somewhere between 50fps to 100fps per inch of barrel for fast calibres. From memory this apply to 22" barrel and up. For something like a 308 it is from 18" and up. This is all from memory and approximates. I have miss laid the tables I had that showed this.

 

[HWL]

I would keep the barrel 28 " and (try to) hunt with.

Performance of the cartridge will be great, but handíness and ballance may suffer…

You can cut it, but to short once, to extend it may be a problem.


HWL

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Members, all replies are greatly appreciated. I will keep it as is and work on the slim /body design of the rifle stock...I think the longer barrel will compliment the design I have in mind for this rifle build...

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Members:
I had some time on my hands and started to look at the 8mm/.323 " bullet properties and new designs for long range hunting and target shooting.
All hunters/target shooters believe the 8mm/.323" bullet to be inferior to the specialised .338 " or the .30" bullets ...I still have to meet one of these long range hunters/target shooters who believe the 8mm/.323" bullet can compete with the above mentioned calibers.
Here is an article about a new designed and a great 8mm/.323" bullet.

https://www.longrangehunting.com/thr...ullets.152842/

https://cuttingedgebullets.com/shop...-product-lines/match-tactical-hunting-bullets

 

[ZG47]

Interesting thread. Thanks Gert. I read the initial post and will scroll through the remainder sometime during the week (It is currently 23:42 NZDST).