Duck hunting shotgun question...

[Ontario Hunter]

Since 1988 I’ve been shooting the same Browning Citori, it’s on its third finish. The original blu, Parkerized and now ceracote. I don’t think color matters but movement and faces do. Like @Red Leg i did some waterfowl guiding and faces flare and save more ducks than the color of the gun.
Just pick a gun that fits and you shoot well. I would add one thing about a semi auto or pump, the third shot is quite often a wasted shot or a wing and a prayer so to speak.
Good luck and waterfowling can get addicting.

Disagree totally. Geese are the toughest birds to bring down. Countless times I needed the third shot to finish one I had hit hard with second round. And more than a few times it's taken three hits to bring down a honker. Usually at least once a season (formerly many times a season) I will take a triple on geese (three birds in three shots). The key to bagging triples is hunt alone ... and be a good shot. My frankengun Browning A5 Magnum (1961 FN receiver, 1970s trigger group, 1990s Miroku barrel with choke tubes, and aftermarket plastic stock) isn't pretty but it's deadly. Fits me perfectly which is more important than cosmetics.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Maybe I missed this in earlier posts, but having not much experience with duck and geese hunting: does anybody find any benefit in 3 inch and 3-1/2 inch shells for this use?

Three inch 12 gauge 1 1/8 oz steel BBs running at 1550 fps is sufficient for big geese. 3.5" punish the shooter and his pocket book unnecessarily. Most guys I've hunted with who used that stuff tended to take too long shots. I always outscored them rounds per bird, usually four to one.

 

[Altitude sickness]

I’ve been using my SxS’s this season.

The sidelock bling on the AYA No.2 didn’t seem spook them. But the hammers can be an issue in a lay down, keeping the muzzles away from the toes after cocking and just before sitting up.

I’m looking for a synthetic stocked Benelli, Beretta, Franchi, Winchester SX4 for December Ducks

 

[NIGHTHAWK]

Maybe I missed this in earlier posts, but having not much experience with duck and geese hunting: does anybody find any benefit in 3 inch and 3-1/2 inch shells for this use?

I use 3” as well as 3 1/2” heavyshot. Big Honkers in NorCal, as well as Ducks and Geese in the Napa River. Some shots are pass shooting or higher and longer shots, but in killing range. In Canada we only use 3” for ducks and geese. Also big open water floater blind hunting in San Pablo Bay I’ll use 3” and sometimes 3 1/2” and always a 3 shot auto-loader.

I’m on a hunt now in Canada where I’ve had a couple triple doubles. 3 shots killing 4-5 snow geese. Makes the difference.

Of course this is circumstance!

Canada Snow Geese:

 

[Goopy]

My shortcomings in killing ducks has almost nothing to do with my shotgun being black/not camo!

Preach it, Brother!

 

[Bandera]

If you happen to be hunting in freezing weather, sleet, snow, generally miserable weather.
Get a Benelli. Camo or black doesn’t matter.
The Beretta Extrema along with Remington 1100 & 1187 a few of the shotguns that I have seen freeze up in generally miserable weather.

 

[BeeMaa]

Maybe I missed this in earlier posts, but having not much experience with duck and geese hunting: does anybody find any benefit in 3 inch and 3-1/2 inch shells for this use?

I have a 3.5" chamber because I use it for turkey hunting, not just waterfowl.

If I had a specific shotgun for waterfowl, I'd stick with a 3" chamber. The reason being is the advancements in ammo technology have given us TSS. I use #7's for goose and #9's for duck with incredible results. This shot is at 40 yards and opening.

 

[Red Leg]

Disagree totally. Geese are the toughest birds to bring down. Countless times I needed the third shot to finish one I had hit hard with second round. And more than a few times it's taken three hits to bring down a honker. Usually at least once a season (formerly many times a season) I will take a triple on geese (three birds in three shots). The key to bagging triples is hunt alone ... and be a good shot. My frankengun Browning A5 Magnum (1961 FN receiver, 1970s trigger group, 1990s Miroku barrel with choke tubes, and aftermarket plastic stock) isn't pretty but it's deadly. Fits me perfectly which is more important than cosmetics.

As you have written constantly, you are a brilliant shot - no doubt the finest on this forum with shotgun or rifle. Like @Hunt anything my experiences guiding hundreds and hunting with many dozens more is that the third shot is largely a wasted one by most using a semi-auto.

I use a double of some sort almost exclusively, I rarely use three-inch shells and always something other than steel - tungsten in a modern double and bismuth or soft shot matrix in my older guns. I have never felt remotely under gunned or lacking in "firepower."

This is my favorite goose gun. It is a traditionally chambered 10 bore built by Lindner around 1880-90. Traditional means it is chambered for 2 7/8" shells and 1 1/4 ounces of shot. In other words, it is what the modern 12 bore 1 1/4 ounce load was created to replicate. The advantage to the 10 is it has shorter shot string. I have not felt the slightest disadvantaged sharing a field or goose pit with plastic bangamatics.

If you happen to be hunting in freezing weather, sleet, snow, generally miserable weather.
Get a Benelli. Camo or black doesn’t matter.
The Beretta Extrema along with Remington 1100 & 1187 a few of the shotguns that I have seen freeze up in generally miserable weather.

Yep. Back in the day, when I was guiding, I became something of an expert in the maintenance and field repair Remingtons.

 

[Daisy]

I don’t think camo matters for the birds. But duck hunting generally wet and raining. Wrapped or nitrided holds up better to the elements than blued and wood.

 

[Hunt anything]

Maybe I missed this in earlier posts, but having not much experience with duck and geese hunting: does anybody find any benefit in 3 inch and 3-1/2 inch shells for this use?

IMO back in the early days of the 3.5 it was an advantage due to the lack of quality of the components. T shot was pretty much standard for geese but with the quality of the shells today I use #2 shot for everything except swan and I use BBB for them but I have killed them with #2 as well..Today not so much of an advantage, with that being said both barrels on my Citori pattern 3.5” Federal Blackcloud #2’s extremely well. Bottom barrel choked modified and the top barrel choked improved modified.

On occasion I still use 3.5 but mostly #2 3” shells unless I’m in a small pond I’ll use #4 steel. My favorite steel is black cloud a Heavy metal is my favorite composite load.

 

[chashardy]

I have the A400 Extreme Plus in camo and love it. However, I agree that the ducks don't care whether it's black or camo.

 

[Dirtdart]

Most of my experience has been in open fields with lay down blinds. Within reason I don't believe it is color, but glare that betrays you. If you spend enough time in a blind the sun will eventually show itself.
I have seen eyeglasses flare birds when spread, blind setup, flagging, and calling were perfection.

If the new guy brings cans of spray on "Christmas Snow" to camo up the blind make sure he doesn't have the kind with glitter in it.

I got a lot of shots at birds with my O/U when I heard bang, click, f**k !!! coming from the blind next to me. When the guys went to SBE's not so much.

Camo is cool if you like it but a dull matte finish doesn't hurt either.

 

[roverandbrew]

Maybe I missed this in earlier posts, but having not much experience with duck and geese hunting: does anybody find any benefit in 3 inch and 3-1/2 inch shells for this use?

I often use 3.5" for late season snow geese.

 

[Tanks]

Disagree totally. Geese are the toughest birds to bring down. Countless times I needed the third shot to finish one I had hit hard with second round. And more than a few times it's taken three hits to bring down a honker.

I shot at only one goose when we had a couple of hours free in the morning. I shot it 3 times, feathers flew on the first two, but the third shot broke a wing and brought it down. Tough birds. I couldn't believe how heavy it was either as I had never hunted geese.

 

[DLSJR]

Maybe I missed this in earlier posts, but having not much experience with duck and geese hunting: does anybody find any benefit in 3 inch and 3-1/2 inch shells for this use?

Mark, back in the 1970’s when I was a young duck hunter we shot 3” and 2 3/4” magnum loads pretty regularly because we thought they were better. The 2 3/4 - 1 3/8 oz. lead load was something I shot more than anything because I thought it was better. It was even better when Federal came out with copper plated lead shot. Between my dad and me we’d go through 50-80 boxes of shells a season and over half were magnum loads. They may have been better then, but they’re not necessary now. The advances in shotgun shells have made big heavy payload shells like 3 1/2” inch unnecessary despite what many hunters believe.

The main reason for 3 1/2” waterfowl loads is the Profit and Loss Statements of gun and ammunition manufacturers, not the benefit of duck hunters. They’re not necessary to efficiently kill ducks. Or geese.

Shoot good quality shells in 12 gauge 2 3/4” and you’ll be just fine. While I hardly ever shoot a 12 gauge these days in a duck blind, if you try Boss copper plated, Hevi X, or any of other premium shot shells, you’ll find a 2 3/4” 12 gauge to be everything you need. I do nearly all my duck & goose hunting with 28 & 20 gauge guns, and shoot a 410 as often as a 12 gauge. The point here is that a guy doesn’t need a 3” 12 gauge and especially not a 3 1/2” to kill ducks or geese.

 

[gcbailey]

I don't think it matters. Ive used a Beretta 391 (precursor to the A400) that is wood and black for years. Be aware that in really cold conditions, semi auto actions tend to slow down. Either shoot your gun dry (not recommended) or get some cold weather grease. I remember there was a system you could get from Brownell's a while back that would make your gun more reliable in cold weather, but can't remember what it was called.

 

[DLSJR]

I have a 3.5" chamber because I use it for turkey hunting, not just waterfowl.

If I had a specific shotgun for waterfowl, I'd stick with a 3" chamber. The reason being is the advancements in ammo technology have given us TSS. I use #7's for goose and #9's for duck with incredible results. This shot is at 40 yards and opening.

You’re absolutely right about the effectiveness of small sized TSS. In 9/10 size it’s devastating on turkeys, ducks and even honkers. With TSS you don’t need a 12 gauge at all, we shoot it in 28 & 410’s and it kills everything very well. Better than anything ‘conventional’ than we’ve ever fired at waterfowl or gobblers. My only complaint about TSS shells, besides the cost, is that some birds are too bloodshot to keep. We’ve had to discard honker breasts shot with #9 TSS as they were too bloodshot to eat.

 

[mdwest]

Either shoot your gun dry (not recommended) or get some cold weather grease.

I use Lucas White Lithium Grease.. about $6 at walmart.. started using it on my service pistol during the winter back in my cop days (very thin coat on the rails).. and now do the same thing for rifles and shotguns.. neither heat or cold effect it much and it wears for a very long time..

It also makes WONDERFUL raccoon deterrent lol... I have a couple of barrel feeders mounted on 4' legs that are supposed to keep the raccoons from getting at the tray... within 24 hours of deploying the feeders I had raccoons scaling the legs, yanking on the motor and tray, pulling at the solar panel, etc..

I went out and slicked up the legs of the feeder with lucas grease about mid july... its now mid november and I havent had a racoon climb the feeder since lol..

 

[gcbailey]

I use Lucas White Lithium Grease.. about $6 at walmart.. started using it on my service pistol during the winter back in my cop days (very thin coat on the rails).. and now do the same thing for rifles and shotguns.. neither heat or cold effect it much and it wears for a very long time..

It also makes WONDERFUL raccoon deterrent lol... I have a couple of barrel feeders mounted on 4' legs that are supposed to keep the raccoons from getting at the tray... within 24 hours of deploying the feeders I had raccoons scaling the legs, yanking on the motor and tray, pulling at the solar panel, etc..

I went out and slicked up the legs of the feeder with lucas grease about mid july... its now mid november and I havent had a racoon climb the feeder since lol..

View attachment 726036

Well that's a new use for grease I'd never heard of!

 

[roverandbrew]

Mark, back in the 1970’s when I was a young duck hunter we shot 3” and 2 3/4” magnum loads pretty regularly because we thought they were better. The 2 3/4 - 1 3/8 oz. lead load was something I shot more than anything because I thought it was better. It was even better when Federal came out with copper plated lead shot. Between my dad and me we’d go through 50-80 boxes of shells a season and over half were magnum loads. They may have been better then, but they’re not necessary now. The advances in shotgun shells have made big heavy payload shells like 3 1/2” inch unnecessary despite what many hunters believe.

The main reason for 3 1/2” waterfowl loads is the Profit and Loss Statements of gun and ammunition manufacturers, not the benefit of duck hunters. They’re not necessary to efficiently kill ducks. Or geese.

Shoot good quality shells in 12 gauge 2 3/4” and you’ll be just fine. While I hardly ever shoot a 12 gauge these days in a duck blind, if you try Boss copper plated, Hevi X, or any of other premium shot shells, you’ll find a 2 3/4” 12 gauge to be everything you need. I do nearly all my duck & goose hunting with 28 & 20 gauge guns, and shoot a 410 as often as a 12 gauge. The point here is that a guy doesn’t need a 3” 12 gauge and especially not a 3 1/2” to kill ducks or geese.

I disagree on high flying snows and canadas late season. These geese have already been shot at for months and I would rather stay home than waste time shooting 12 3/4 shells.