What would you do to a brand new Winchester Model 70

Hornedfrogbbq

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What would you do and listed by priority, to a brand new Model 70 (this in .375)? Out of the box it is an MOA rifle or better. Action seems fine and smooth and feeds well. The metal for the claw extractor seems a little flimsy but maybe that is me. The metal on the floor plate does not mate up to the wood tightly but operationally I think has no affect.
 
Trigger. Mine was pretty terrible so I ordered a timney quick. Also having mine chopped/threaded for suppressor but that’s a hot topic around here.
 
Absolutely nothing, go shoot it and see how it performs. My safari express was a New Haven build so maybe that says something compared to the new models today but I didn't do anything to it other than mount a scope and take it hunting, always performed flawlessly so why mess up a good thing.
 
What would you do and listed by priority, to a brand new Model 70 (this in .375)? Out of the box it is an MOA rifle or better. Action seems fine and smooth and feeds well. The metal for the claw extractor seems a little flimsy but maybe that is me. The metal on the floor plate does not mate up to the wood tightly but operationally I think has no affect.
PTG Oberndorf bottom metal, an extra extractor, (I liked the Williams extractors but discontinued).
An extra bolt stop release spring, as the newer M70 Portugal models have weak springs that will break.
I've replaced one already on a 7x57 FN Portugal.
 
PTG Oberndorf bottom metal, an extra extractor, (I liked the Williams extractors but discontinued).
An extra bolt stop release spring, as the newer M70 Portugal models have weak springs that will break.
I've replaced one already on a 7x57 FN Portugal.
Add a firing pin spring to your list.
 
Another proponent of CF. Never mind that the military uses PF on animals that shoot back. Flame away,
 
What would you do and listed by priority, to a brand new Model 70 (this in .375)? Out of the box it is an MOA rifle or better. Action seems fine and smooth and feeds well. The metal for the claw extractor seems a little flimsy but maybe that is me. The metal on the floor plate does not mate up to the wood tightly but operationally I think has no affect.

Put a scope on it and go hunt. That's all I've ever done with mine.
 
I would shoot it before doing anything.

Buddy of mine is planning on going to Zim with me in 2027 and he just bought a M70 Classic Stainless New Haven in .375H&H and we mounted a Leupold VX5 2-10x44 with illuminated dot with Warn QD rings.

All in he's just north of $3k into the gun and the rifle shoots amazing, I on the other hand have a BRNO 602 all weather build being finished up at the smith currently and will have well over $3k in my rifle before it's done.
 
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Absolutely nothing, go shoot it and see how it performs. My safari express was a New Haven build so maybe that says something compared to the new models today but I didn't do anything to it other than mount a scope and take it hunting, always performed flawlessly so why mess up a good thing.
It shoots moa or better at 100 yards with a swaro Z6i on it.
 
I would shoot it before doing anything.

Buddy of mine is planning on going to Zim with me in 2027 and he just bought a M70 Classic Stainless New Haven in .375H&H and we mounted a Leupold VX5 2-10x44 with illuminated dot with Warn QD rings.

All in he's just north of $3k into the gun and the rifle shoots amazing, I on the other hand have a BRNO 602 all weather build being finished up at the smith currently and will have well over $3k in my rifle before it's done.
Done
 
It shoots moa or better at 100 yards with a swaro Z6i on it.
Can’t ask for much better than that! Anything else will be more cosmetic in my mind
 
First, mount your scope correctly. Acetone to remove all oil, then blue Loctite.
Tighten everything as per specs.

Run a clean patch down the barrel, then take it to a range and shoot it.


I "break-in" a barrel, but, I don't know that is necessary.

(I wait for the barrel to cool between each shot)

I'll fire a shot, then use copper solvent with a brush, then a dry patch, and shoot again. (adjusting the scope with every shot)

I do this about 10 times.

I keep doing this until it it hitting where I want it.

Then, I will fire 3-5 rounds, and completely clean the bore.

Almost always, 20 shots will do it, unless I'm not satisfied with the results.



I have a 6.5 CM Kimber that I almost gave up on, until someone gave me 10 rounds of Nosler Trophy Grade 140g Partitions. The rifle went from 3 MOA to sub-MOA with the right ammo.



I've got an old Remington 700 in .30/06 that will send anything 1 MOA - 150-220g.

(You just don't know until you spend time with the rifle.)
 
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Agree with all the others that suggest you just go hunting with it as it is. For breaking in my most recent barrels, I have been using Remington 40X Bore Cleaner. It actually appears to polish the barrel.
 
I agree with the upgrades of the trigger, extractor, firing pin and springs for the sake of reliability.

A Swaro Z8i or Z6i mounted properly with the (oversized) 8-40 screws will take care of getting you on target.

The only thing left is you. Dry fire 3-5 times a week followed by short range sessions will have you in “shooting shape” in no time. Of course practice from sticks and prepare to take them with you on safari. Sometimes PH’s don’t have the best sticks or the style you’ve been practicing with.
 
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