Transitioning To A Blaser R8 - A Two Months / 500 Rounds Review

BigSteve57

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In the video either I missed it, or they said nothing about needing to change stocks between different barrel diameter groups. He implied you could go straight from 222 to 500 Jeffrey with only a barrel, bolt and magazine change. I guess so as we’ve mentioned if you don't mind the gap.
Typical sales pitch leaving the details out! :cry:A couple of mm per side doesnt seem like much. Id like to see one up close.
Hmm...maybe half the flat on top of the stock. Maybe it is a lot?:unsure:

View attachment 385467
"He implied you could go straight from 222 to 500 Jeffrey with only a barrel, bolt and magazine change."

I saw the Blaser factory representatives do that* in front of me at the 2012 NRA show in St Louis, MO. It is the demonstration that sold me on the platform.

*I can not exactly remember what the starting caliber was, it was one of the .22x's, but I recall the last barrel was 500 Jeffrey since I never heard of that round prior to that demonstration.
 

TOBY458

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OK, forget the ”floppy” thumbs! I used all 4 fingers and it works! Maybe I should just cut my old thumbs off to keep them out of the way! No, then how could I pick my nose!
Thanks One day... for making me think my process over!
Now I‘ll just practice, practice, practice my newly learned 4 finger method!
I have a 7mm Rem Mag and 375. Both can easily be loaded by simply pressing the cartridges straight down into the magazine with one thumb. Not as easy as pushing a round down into a model 70, but not that bad at all. I can understand that the smaller diameter rounds would have stiffer magazine lips due to the thicker "plastic" in that area. So maybe anything under the belted mag rounds are a bit stiffer to load.
 

Ridgewalker

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Toby, you're young, healthy and a strong guy. I’m “ long in the tooth” and, sadly, getting wimpier every day! But the correct method helps. Not sure how long I can “cock” the firing pin, nor how quickly in a bad situation. But the good news is I can still learn from others (hopefully!)
I’m enjoying learning from your post. Thanks for starting it!

I would appreciate any input from anyone with a Blaser and the same calibers I have (223, 6.5 Creedmoor, 30-06, 375 H&H) of any factory or reloads (preferably) that have worked well for you. I am trying to achieve less than 1” 5 shot groups in the 223 and 6.5 and less than 1 1/2” 3 shot groups with the 30-06 and 375 H&H. I don't believe that is to high of expectations for this expensive of a rifle.

To be up front, I like my Blaser if for no other reason than it is so compact and easier to drag through an airport in a Pelican 1700 than a full length rifle in a Pelican 1750.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

Red Leg

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Toby, you're young, healthy and a strong guy. I’m “ long in the tooth” and, sadly, getting wimpier every day! But the correct method helps. Not sure how long I can “cock” the firing pin, nor how quickly in a bad situation. But the good news is I can still learn from others (hopefully!)
I’m enjoying learning from your post. Thanks for starting it!

I would appreciate any input from anyone with a Blaser and the same calibers I have (223, 6.5 Creedmoor, 30-06, 375 H&H) of any factory or reloads (preferably) that have worked well for you. I am trying to achieve less than 1” 5 shot groups in the 223 and 6.5 and less than 1 1/2” 3 shot groups with the 30-06 and 375 H&H. I don't believe that is to high of expectations for this expensive of a rifle.

To be up front, I like my Blaser if for no other reason than it is so compact and easier to drag through an airport in a Pelican 1700 than a full length rifle in a Pelican 1750.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Hey partner - making sure I have this correct, but are you having difficulty getting MOA type accuracy with yours?

If so, in .375, the Federal Safari Swift A-Frame 300 gr load is a sub-MOA load in my rifle (as is their Woodleigh Hydro) in the standard weight configuration. Don't have the other calibers.

 

Ridgewalker

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If so, in .375, the Federal Safari Swift A-Frame 300 gr load is a sub-MOA load in my rifle

RedLeg, good info! It just so happens I have a half box left of those. I havent tried them yet. In my MRC, they are the fastest (and very accurate as in 3 in 3/4”) factory round I have tried. Thanks! They will go on the top of my list.

Yes to the lack of MOA issue. Checked barrel tightness on all barrels. Checked scopes and mounts. I’m just use to finding a load at least MOA. Maybe Im just getting too old. I only started having to wear glasses this time last year. But even with glasses my other rifles still seem to be more accurate.
Just looking for those ”magic” loads.
 
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Red Leg

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RedLeg, good info! It just so happens I have a half box left of those. I havent tried them yet. In my MRC, they are the fastest (and very accurate as in 3 in 3/4”) factory round I have tried. Thanks! They will go on the top of my list.

Yes to the lack of MOA issue. Checked barrel tightness on all barrels. Checked scopes and mounts. I’m just use to finding a load at least MOA. Maybe Im just getting too old. I only started having to wear glasses this time last year. But even with glasses my other rifles still seem to be more accurate.
Just looking for those ”magic” loads.
Got it. And fully understand the inexorable qualities of this whole aging thing. :confused:

The 200 gr Hornady ELD-X in my .300 Win Mag is a factory sub-MOA load as well. You might try the 178 gr 30-06 version. I have a new .257 Win Mag barrel for which I am still searching for that "magic" load.
 

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