Shoulder not set back

I do my neck expansion with Lyman dies. Too much case stretching and trimming otherwise. If you have the Hornady full length resizing die with Zip spindle you need to fit a smaller expanding button because the decapping pin is headed and is held in by the button BUT typically you can just remove the button from your resizing die.

Standard test for resized cases is to remove the striker assembly from the breechbolt and chamber a case. Slight resistance as you close the bolt is good because it indicates correct resizing for that rifle chamber.

Repeat the test with loaded rounds (again with striker assembly removed) to avoid issues at the range and in the field.

The biggest issue with tight chambering is when a jacketed bullet jams in the rifling. That is a situation to avoid because it will increase pressure AND may result in a missed opportunity if you open the breechbolt to extract the round and the bullet stays in the barrel.
 
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@ZG47 "Standard test for resized cases is to remove the striker assembly from the breechbolt and chamber a case. Slight resistance as you close the bolt is good because it indicates correct resizing for that rifle chamber."

^^^^^ I use this method on Remington and clones. ^^^^^^
 
I think to determine if it is the shoulder being too far forward or the bullet being seated out too far, try rechambering. If the bullet was pushed back when you cammed the bolt closed then on this second time in then they should load more easily but with the too forward shoulder resistance should be about the same.

If you do need to remove the primers, just pull the bullets and powder and put on hearing protection, go into a bathroom, put some wet paper towels in the bottom of a trash can and fire into the can.

You said you set the shoulders back .02"? That's too far. Perhaps you meant .002". (I set back .003".)

Also, to determine max OAL for your rifle, take a fired case and squeeze the mouth just slightly with a pair of pliers, then seat a bullet somewhat far out and chamber the round. Remove the round and measure the OAL. Then subject from .010" to .050" for what is correct OAL for that particular rifle. However, if the bullet is left out farther than the max OAL that is published for that cartridge, then use that.
 
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You said you set the shoulders back .02"? That's too far. Perhaps you meant .002". (I set back .003".)
Yes, I did miss a digit. And, thanks for the thoughts on this. I do believe it is the shoulders.
 
I just have the '06. But, this could be once used that I picked up somewhere. I just don't have confidence in what I have done. The bolt closes, its just stiffer than I am used to
@Pheroze
You would know if the COAL was to long, usually the projectiles jam in the lands and stay there when you extract it. Check projectiles for land marks on the projectile.

If you do need to resize there are 2 ways to do it.
One completely disassembled each round, a right pain in the arse.

Get a body die from Redding and just run your loaded rounds thru the body die.
I did the cheapskate method and go a Lee fls die and removed the stem. I then used a Dremel tool with grinding bits and enlarged the are the neck Sizes in so a loaded round would drop in freely. One homemade body die.
You can then just neck size all your cases and when they wont chamber again either FLS them or just use your body die to bump the shoulder back again.
Bob
 
Pull the bullets and save them and the powder. Deprime as per usual and reuse the primers. Resize, reload with the components and you are good to go. I've reused primers several times with no ill effects. They are perfectly fine.
@New boomer
What's the secrecy in reusing primers several times mate, now that's another good way of saving money I hadn't thought about. I can't seem to get them to go bang more than once , what's the secret
Just stirring mate
Bob
 
I dont think the bullet is touching the lands. It is definitely the shoulders not being set back. These cartridges are safe. I just will adjust the die for next time.
 

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