Ruger No. 1

[Kevin Peacocke]

Kevin, your stock easily qualifies as "classy/classic". Beautiful mineral lines that run straight through the stock, with a little "drop" into the butt, a very strong item. On top of all that, quite discernable fiddleback in the butt. What you might consider is to remove the present finish, then spend a week or three giving it a nice, deep oil finish. That way it would become a masterpiece even Roohawk would happily own ...

I may well do that!

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

He ended up passing on the sale and I took it upon myself to give it a new home. Going to be tough to decide which one to bring for elk season, my 375 H&H or the 300 H&H.

I laid eyes and hands on Doug's No1 in 300 H&H in Limpopo this weekend, having seen photos of it in the Allure of the Ruger No1 thread I can attest that it is even better in the flesh. And that 300H&H round surely rises to the top of the list as the best looking, it is a master of proportion.

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

He ended up passing on the sale and I took it upon myself to give it a new home. Going to be tough to decide which one to bring for elk season, my 375 H&H or the 300 H&H.

300H&H is so correct.

 

[ET1775]

I laid eyes and hands on Doug's No1 in 300 H&H in Limpopo this weekend, having seen photos of it in the Allure of the Ruger No1 thread I can attest that it is even better in the flesh. And that 300H&H round surely rises to the top of the list as the best looking, it is a master of proportion.

I love the balance and proportions of the 26 inch, medium weight barrel. Looking forward to getting to know how she shoots.

 

[Fryeguy]

Guys, I ended up ordering a Jard replacement trigger for mine. I installed it a week or two ago. I ordered it with the 1.75# spring, and also ordered a replacement 2.5# spring also in case the other one was too light. I will say it was a pain in the butt, and took an hour or two to get done. It was also my first time ever taking an Ruger #1 down to work on. Like others noted in reviews, mine at first install was at 1.5# to begin with, but I easily adjusted it to be right at 2#. It was worth the time and it is 1million times better than the factory trigger. I would definitely recommend the upgrade!! It even got rid of the slight bit of creep/travel the OEM trigger had as well.

 

[WAB]

Guys, I ended up ordering a Jard replacement trigger for mine. I installed it a week or two ago. I ordered it with the 1.75# spring, and also ordered a replacement 2.5# spring also in case the other one was too light. I will say it was a pain in the butt, and took an hour or two to get done. It was also my first time ever taking an Ruger #1 down to work on. Like others noted in reviews, mine at first install was at 1.5# to begin with, but I easily adjusted it to be right at 2#. It was worth the time and it is 1million times better than the factory trigger. I would definitely recommend the upgrade!! It even got rid of the slight bit of creep/travel the OEM trigger had as well.

You are right, the install is a pain but the result is fantastic. I had one go smooth and one ended up having to go to Jard. Both came out great in the end.

 

[Arthur Morta]

OK thanks both....be interesting to see what/why its for ..or just decoration

Alex Henry Forend

View attachment 537923

 

[rookhawk]

@Kevin Peacocke your 30-06 wood is better than you think. Modern gun wood is finished with polyurethane. You look at the finish on the gun. If you were to trip that gun, get a NECG replica silvers pad for it (or a real one if you like recoil), remove some wood, rechase the checkering, and put an red alkanet root stain on it and an oil finish, you'd see the finish in the wood.

Put another way, plastic finish makes the wood look plain. The lovely custom #1 posted above has no better wood than yours, it was just properly finished so it really pops. Full grain fill, plus the right stain, that's how you get the correct look.

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

Rook, how do you strip the poly finish? Is there a solvent or do you have to sand it off?

 

[rookhawk]

Rook, how do you strip the poly finish? Is there a solvent or do you have to sand it off?

Start with citrus peeler (citric acid paint stripper), then sand and reshape the stock, then use a triangular checkering file to crisp up the borders, then stain, then 1-3 layers of boiled linseed oil, then move on to preferred oil and rottonstone, potentially rubbing it down with slacum between coats.

Its not rocket science work, its long work, a tiny bit each day. Its hard to screw up because the process is so slow, 60-90 days. When you're done, it looks amazing. Might as well chop off the forend and install an ebony forend tip as well. Make it properly Scottish!

 

[spike.t]

Alex Henry Forend

View attachment 537924View attachment 537923

OK but any idea for the reason behind that notch...or just decorative?....

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

It would appear that nobody knows for sure, but here are the candidates:
1. To aid tying up in a rack (unlikely, it would need to slope towards the muzzle to make that work).
2. To aid locating in sticks (highly unlikely, it is nowhere neat the optimum placement in sticks).
3. To aid in grip (highly unlikely, it is far past the support hand holding zone).
4. Style (highly likely, it is very distinctive and rakes the line to match the angle of the pistol grip. You either hate it or love it for style, but to the best of my knowledge the large number of Ruger No1 owners have never used it for any practical purpose, and they far outnumber the original AH forend rifles produced before Bill adopted it.).

 

[rookhawk]

It would appear that nobody knows for sure, but here are the candidates:
1. To aid tying up in a rack (unlikely, it would need to slope towards the muzzle to make that work).
2. To aid locating in sticks (highly unlikely, it is nowhere neat the optimum placement in sticks).
3. To aid in grip (highly unlikely, it is far past the support hand holding zone).
4. Style (highly likely, it is very distinctive and rakes the line to match the angle of the pistol grip. You either hate it or love it for style, but to the best of my knowledge the large number of Ruger No1 owners have never used it for any practical purpose, and they far outnumber the original AH forend rifles produced before Bill adopted it.).

Completely correct in the theories. The most probable being #1, they would be lashed in crates for shipping and that kept them from tumbling about.

All the theories hold particular merits and it appears Mr. Alex never put to paper just what it was about.

 

[ve7poi]

I have a Custom barreled 475 Turnbull

 

[WAB]

Start with citrus peeler (citric acid paint stripper), then sand and reshape the stock, then use a triangular checkering file to crisp up the borders, then stain, then 1-3 layers of boiled linseed oil, then move on to preferred oil and rottonstone, potentially rubbing it down with slacum between coats.

Its not rocket science work, its long work, a tiny bit each day. Its hard to screw up because the process is so slow, 60-90 days. When you're done, it looks amazing. Might as well chop off the forend and install an ebony forend tip as well. Make it properly Scottish!

I have been tempted to do this with mine, but the thing is so bloody accurate I’m scared to mess with it!

 

[rookhawk]

I have been tempted to do this with mine, but the thing is so bloody accurate I’m scared to mess with it!

Don't sand the inside of the barrel channel or add finish there, and ensure the screws go back exactly the way they were and you'll be a-okay.

 

[Puddle]

Now that the 450/400 ammo has recently made a reappearance, I've managed to collect a lifetime supply of brass for my #1.

 

[geoff rath]

Guys, I ended up ordering a Jard replacement trigger for mine. I installed it a week or two ago. I ordered it with the 1.75# spring, and also ordered a replacement 2.5# spring also in case the other one was too light. I will say it was a pain in the butt, and took an hour or two to get done. It was also my first time ever taking an Ruger #1 down to work on. Like others noted in reviews, mine at first install was at 1.5# to begin with, but I easily adjusted it to be right at 2#. It was worth the time and it is 1million times better than the factory trigger. I would definitely recommend the upgrade!! It even got rid of the slight bit of creep/travel the OEM trigger had as well.

Hmmmm, you guys have me thinking about my No 1s ...

 

[WAB]

Don't sand the inside of the barrel channel or add finish there, and ensure the screws go back exactly the way they were and you'll be a-okay.

I know, but this rifle is literally shooting 1/2 moa at 300. I guess I’m a coward!

 

[Flewis]

Saw a nice no1 today in cabelas in Hamburg PA, 300H&H. Nice wood $2300.