Ruger Guide Gun 416 Ruger Review

[Slickshooter]

Thanks for posting this. I also have a 416 Ruger Guide Gun, hand load for it and thoroughly enjoy it.

 

[375-9.3x63 Fan]

Can I get some advice on buying Alaska Arms QD Ruger scope rings for my 416 Ruger Guide Gun, I plan to add Leupold 1-6x24 Patrol, 30 mm scope on it; not sure what size rings should I get.

 

[Altitude sickness]

This is a great public service post.

I always thought I wanted a Ruger Guide gun. Until I read this post. They sound like having a part time job. Scrounging or manufacturing parts to make it functional and a normal rifle.

Owners. Please don’t be offended. Unless you also own the Ruger company. Or designed them. it’s not your fault

 

[Beck]

Can I get some advice on buying Alaska Arms QD Ruger scope rings for my 416 Ruger Guide Gun, I plan to add Leupold 1-6x24 Patrol, 30 mm scope on it; not sure what size rings should I get.

you want the medium height 30mm rings then, I like to have the levers on the opposite side of the bolt

 

[Bandera]

This is a great public service post.

I always thought I wanted a Ruger Guide gun. Until I read this post. They sound like having a part time job. Scrounging or manufacturing parts to make it functional and a normal rifle.

Owners. Please don’t be offended. Unless you also own the Ruger company. Or designed them. it’s not your fault

Some people like to tinker with guns.
You have to keep in mind that a aftermarket trigger was installed. It was not needed but installed as a user preference. I had a Timney trigger that would give light hits on my PCC that I used for competition. Factory trigger no issues. A CMG trigger fixed the issue. Why not go back with the factory AR trigger? Well I tinker with AR’s.

If he was running a Hybrid 46DT there is a bravo mount, I think it is the bravo, that mounts the can directly to the 5/8-18 thread pattern.

Why did Ruger go with the non standard thread pattern? Baffle strikes.
There is a minimum barrel size for mounting a suppressor that provides an acceptable shoulder. The shoulder was to small and the little bit of a radius where the threads and shoulder meet was causing alimentary issues.
The newer Hawkeye Hunters have a flared shoulder to help with alignment.

If you have a 20” barrel, and a 7.61” inch suppressor, you are only 3.61” longer that a 24” barrel. Actually closer to 6” longer due to the can threading onto the barrel.

 

[375 Ruger Fan]

Can I get some advice on buying Alaska Arms QD Ruger scope rings for my 416 Ruger Guide Gun, I plan to add Leupold 1-6x24 Patrol, 30 mm scope on it; not sure what size rings should I get.

Ruger publishes a table with guidance for ring size vs scope size.

 

[375 Ruger Fan]

Trigger:

The first modification was installing an adjustable timney trigger. These are not really advertised as a drop in and they are definitely not a drop in. A company called spec tech used to make triggers for the M77 and I have installed several of them, they work great but I cannot remember if they came with a sear.

Bottom line for the Timney. Its a PITA but functions well after fitting. The sear is a little longer than the original and shaped differently. I had to modify the trigger to get enough travel and let the sear drop without rubbing on the trigger or cocking piece. The timney trigger is very hard metal and is not easily filed, you need diamond files and diamond tip dremel bits to make much progress. Luckily, both are cheap. If you go slow and are prepared to uninstall and re-install the trigger about 100 times then this is a pretty easy job. I did not have to modify any sear/trigger mating surfaces.

Bedding:

Bedding a ruger can be a pain. From the factory the entire bottom of the barrel made contact with the stock. You can free float the barrel first and then bed or bed then free float. I decided to free float first and then bed with spacers to get the thickness I wanted. This way I could use marker to see how good the factory bedding was once the barrel channel was enlarged. Turns out it had pretty good recoil lug engagement but there was still some possible lateral movement at the tang. I used JB weld steel in the bedding areas with electrical tape around the barrel at the tip of the forearm and some credit card pieces on the flat spots in front of the tang to keep the action level. It is important to relieve the area at the back of the tang after bedding so you dont turn your tang into a new recoil lug.

After free floating the barrel it became clear that from the factory the box magazine is clamped tightly by the trigger guard and front action screw. Bedding helped, and a little filing got it to fit well in place with some clearance.

Instead of going to the expense and hassle of a Timney, which are indeed excellent triggers, just replace the spring in the factory LC6 trigger. An easy and inexpensive way to obtain a 2.5 to 3 lbs trigger. I've done this on several Ruger rifles, with the LC6 trigger, and it's a good way to go. Cost is about $10 and you can do the job in about 10 minutes. Easy.

STORE

Trigger Springs for Rifles, Accu-Risers, Gunsmithing, Alluminum Pillar Bedding, Browning, CZ, Ruger, Remington, Winchester, Tikka, Kimber, Hunter, Varmint, Safety Detent Ball, Light Ejector Spring Kit

erniethegunsmith.com

Product Details
Lighten your rifle's trigger pull!

Also fits any Ruger with the LC6 trigger.

Installation of this spring will reduce your trigger's weight of pull by 1 to 1½ lbs. with no other changes.

In some cases just the installation of this spring will be all that is necessary, however some shooters will require less creep, and an even lower weight of pull, which will be dependent upon the type, and amount of tuning accomplished by your gunsmith.

I sell this spring with the understanding that it is just one necessary portion of a complete trigger job.

None of the standard M-77 MK II based trigger assemblies have adjustment provisions for weight of pull, or sear engagement (this includes the Hawkeye and LC 6 triggers).

Your trigger's weight of pull will be determined, in most part, by 4 factors:

#1. Sear/Trigger engagement angle

#2. Amount of this engagement

#3. Surface finish

#4. Weight necessary to compress the trigger spring

Easy access is only available to one of these factors - the weight of pull spring.

After the barreled action has been removed from the stock, this spring can be replaced with only a pin punch. Replacing this spring is simple, cheap, and a necessary first step.

PICTURE #1 shows a Power (brand name) trigger stoning fixture. This is the best way I know of to address the other 3 factors which determine your triggers "feel" and final weight of pull.

PICTURE #2 is of the Hawkeye, (LC6) trigger and its new trigger spring.

You can spend more money, and you can spend more time, but the best value is still obtained by replacing the original trigger spring, and tuning the original trigger.

IF YOU WANT A LIGHTER TRIGGER PULL, YOU NEED A LIGHTER TRIGGER SPRING!

 

[EjectorSwipe]

This is a great public service post.

I always thought I wanted a Ruger Guide gun. Until I read this post. They sound like having a part time job. Scrounging or manufacturing parts to make it functional and a normal rifle.

Owners. Please don’t be offended. Unless you also own the Ruger company. Or designed them. it’s not your fault

Yeah, I knew this was a sows ear silk purse situation when I started. It is immediately apparent when you pick up a guide gun that the fit and finish isn’t too tier. To be fair to ruger, the light strikes were self induced. The stock fitment wasn’t great and I don’t like that the open sights are a 6:00 hold but it worked fine. Can even see over the suppressor with the open sights.

Some people like to tinker with guns.
You have to keep in mind that a aftermarket trigger was installed. It was not needed but installed as a user preference. I had a Timney trigger that would give light hits on my PCC that I used for competition. Factory trigger no issues. A CMG trigger fixed the issue. Why not go back with the factory AR trigger? Well I tinker with AR’s.

If he was running a Hybrid 46DT there is a bravo mount, I think it is the bravo, that mounts the can directly to the 5/8-18 thread pattern.

Why did Ruger go with the non standard thread pattern? Baffle strikes.
There is a minimum barrel size for mounting a suppressor that provides an acceptable shoulder. The shoulder was to small and the little bit of a radius where the threads and shoulder meet was causing alimentary issues.
The newer Hawkeye Hunters have a flared shoulder to help with alignment.

If you have a 20” barrel, and a 7.61” inch suppressor, you are only 3.61” longer that a 24” barrel. Actually closer to 6” longer due to the can threading onto the barrel.

It’s the charlie mount on the hybrid 46m. The threads seem quite solid and has given no issues with alignment. Luckily the 460 bore on the suppressor gives hot dog/hallway clearance on the 416 bullet anyway. Helps quite a bit with recoil and the sound of a 400gr bullet hitting an animal is awesome, PH appreciated it not making him more deaf.

 

[ldmay375]

Can I get some advice on buying Alaska Arms QD Ruger scope rings for my 416 Ruger Guide Gun, I plan to add Leupold 1-6x24 Patrol, 30 mm scope on it; not sure what size rings should I get.

I am not sure of the ocular / eye piece size of that scope compared to the scopes that I have.

I have Alaska Arms lows on a 375 Ruger with a Tract 1-8x24 straight tube 30mm.

I have Alaska Arms mediums on a 416 Ruger with a Leica Magnus 1-6.3x24 straight tube 30mm.
If have not tried it, but the lows might work on it also. If lens covers are in place on this scope, the bolt handle might contact it with lows.

I believe the Alaska Arms rings as to low / medium / high are in line with Ruger's elevation dimensions. But, a call to Morris can verify.

 

[gbflyer]

I would not replace the factory trigger with a Timney for a dangerous game rifle. The Timney is not reliable. Your rifle though.

Great write up. I don’t see a single group there that’s unacceptable. Nice work.